{"id":12059,"date":"2013-07-18T09:25:13","date_gmt":"2013-07-18T13:25:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=12059"},"modified":"2021-06-02T16:08:56","modified_gmt":"2021-06-02T20:08:56","slug":"cheese-plate-sweat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-plate-sweat\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Plate: No Sweat"},"content":{"rendered":"

When summer hits full stride in New England, I relish a break from long months of indoor hibernation; I eat as many meals outdoors as possible. Although I\u2019m as comfortable around the grill as the next guy, if I do not have to cook, so much the better. If I am luckier yet, I might find myself in a canoe with friends, paddling up the Concord River in search of a shady glade where we can pull ashore and devour the local cheese we picked up at Wasik\u2019s that morning.<\/p>\n

My beat-the-heat selection featured here can easily be dressed up into a full meal with a light salad and perhaps a bit of charcuterie or salumi. (The cheese-centric, no-cook meals my dad prepared every Saturday come to mind: coppa, salami, thin-sliced fresh green peppers in olive oil, crusty bread, and a spicy provolone.) But for me this riverside cheese supper is also just right straight out of the wrapper, with fresh, ripe cherries and peaches, and, oh yes, a cold and crisp ros\u00e9.<\/p>\n

\"This<\/a><\/p>\n

1. Tarentaise<\/a><\/h3>\n

Pictured at top left<\/em><\/p>\n

Thistle Hill Farm and Spring Brook Farm – North Pomfret and Reading, Vermont
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk; Traditional rennet
\nsbfcheese.com<\/a>, thistlehillfarm.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Tarentaise, made at both Thistle Hill and Spring Brook farms, could be an exercise in terroir. Try both to see what a difference 20 miles can make in the texture and flavor of identically-made cheeses. Both are dense and oh-sosmooth, with a beautiful Jersey cow glow, a nutty start, and a peppery finish that might leave your lips tingling. It\u2019s all a matter of degree. Either would be a perfect endnote to an easy summer meal.<\/p>\n

2. Cremont<\/a><\/h3>\n

Pictured at top right<\/em><\/p>\n

Vermont Creamery – Websterville, Vermont
\nPasteurized goat and cow\u2019s milk, cow\u2019s cream; Microbial rennet
\nvermontcreamery.com<\/a><\/p>\n

I have been a fan of Vermont Creamery for more than 20 years. I recall how excited I was when its cofounder, Allison Hooper, offered to bring a new cheese she was developing to a L\u2019Espalier Cheese Tuesday for a trial run. Batch 19\u2014as she called this small, wrinkly, meltingly lush disk\u2014was an instant crowd pleaser. Emerging on the market a few months later dubbed Cremont, this mixed-milk cheese uses a bit of cream to amp up its sweet and tangy richness.<\/p>\n

3. Salva Cremasco DOP<\/h3>\n

Pictured at left<\/em><\/p>\n

Lombardy, Italy
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk; Traditional rennet
\nsalvacremasco.com<\/a><\/p>\n

As stolid in appearance as the building blocks of a sun-drenched Italian hilltown, Salva Cremasco is a double-decker cousin of taleggio and was recently awarded DOP (nameprotected) status. Its dense paste is a bit crumbly in its deep interior but smooth and slightly elastic toward its tawny rind. The flavors are concentrates of unaggressive earth and a lingering tartness.<\/p>\n

4. Summer Snow<\/a><\/h3>\n

Pictured center of plate<\/em><\/p>\n

Woodcock Farm – Weston, Vermont
\nPasteurized sheep’s milk; Microbial rennet<\/p>\n

I know that summer is just around the corner when the first wheels of Summer Snow arrive. This soft-ripened cheese, which will be available until early autumn, has the unctuous sweet-and-sour sheepy flavors and opulent texture that screams, \u201cBaa, Baa, Baa.\u201d<\/p>\n

5. Grazalema Payoyo<\/h3>\n

Pictured at bottom right<\/em><\/p>\n

Queso Payoyo; Andalusia, Spain
\nRaw goat\u2019s and sheep’s milk; Traditional rennet
\npayoyo.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Produced in the Grazalema nature preserve in southern Spain and made from the blending of Payoyo goat\u2019s and Pyrenees sheep\u2019s milk, this five-pound basketweave- rinded wheel offers the best that both animal milks have to offer. Densely textured but slightly moist, with a gamy perfumed aroma, the flavors combine tart citrus with buttery sweetness in a boisterous balance.<\/p>\n

Miele di Fiori di Castagno<\/a><\/h3>\n

A dab of honey can do a lot to tame a wild cheese, but it can also be cloying or overwhelming. This chestnut honey from Franca Franzoni, however, has subdued sweetness, with a caramel and nut flavor reminiscent of the toasty crust of a cr\u00e8me br\u00fbl\u00e9e, and a slight bitterness.<\/p>\n

Landjaeger<\/a><\/h3>\n

Cured beef and pork \u201chunter\u2019s sausage,\u201d each link of Landjaeger is about four inches long and would traditionally be stuffed into a pant pocket for long treks, sliced or bitten off as needed. The version produced by the New York sausage maker Schaller & Weber has a rich salami flavor.<\/p>\n

Tortas de Aceite de Ines Rosales<\/a><\/h3>\n

Thin, crisp, and flaky, these olive oil \u201ccakes\u201d are mildly sweet, with a hint of anise flavor. I especially like these tortas with Cremont, but mostly I just like them.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Keep cool this summer with a no-cook meal of great cheese plate and savory sides curated by cheesemonger Louis Risoli of L’Espalier in Boston<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12060,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[345],"tags":[],"coauthors":[644,329],"class_list":["post-12059","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheeseplate"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCheese Plate: No Sweat - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Keep cool this summer with a no-cook meal of great cheese plate and savory sides curated by cheesemonger Louis Risoli of L'Espalier in Boston\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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