{"id":1422,"date":"2013-12-10T12:07:49","date_gmt":"2013-12-10T17:07:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=1422"},"modified":"2014-03-03T10:54:09","modified_gmt":"2014-03-03T15:54:09","slug":"star-search","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/star-search\/","title":{"rendered":"Star Search"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>When I moved to Los Angeles from New York in 1991, I couldn\u2019t understand why LA seemed so lacking when it came to gourmet provisions, including serious cheese. The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills was the exception, but it was beyond my grad student budget; I couldn\u2019t find much else.<\/p>\n<p>Twenty years later everything\u2019s changed. Neighborhoods throughout the city have their own cheesemongers. High-end restaurants have dedicated cheese bars and amazing plates but also feature gussied-up grilled cheese sandwiches. Though some LA food experts swear cheese hasn\u2019t yet captured the local imagination, my recent cheese-focused return convinced me otherwise. What follows is a decidedly personal guide to places that wowed me on a recent curd crawl. To enjoy this bonanza I recommend working your way from one side of the city to the other to minimize traffic frustrations; the places I visited are listed loosely from west to east. On the other hand, if you stock provisions in your car\u2014say, a baguette and some amazing bloomy rind\u2014the gridlock might not seem so bad.<\/p>\n<h2>Master Mongers<\/h2>\n<h3>Andrew\u2019s Cheese Shop<\/h3>\n<p>Andrew Steiner opened his eponymous store in 2008, after years masterminding the cheese program at one of Los Angeles\u2019s finest restaurants, Patina. The opinionated monger stocks an eclectic selection of cheeses, mostly international. Highlights include Bleu de Termignon, made by an elderly cheesemaker in the French Alps who produces just 35 wheels each year from the milk of her nine Abondance cows; Andrew can\u2019t bear to waste even a morsel. \u201cThere are cheeses I get so attached to I get afraid to have people try them,\u201d he admits. Indeed, some are so precious they\u2019re hidden in a back cooler; be sure to ask for the Seguin family\u2019s mild, earthy Grands Causses, which Steiner describes as \u201cperhaps the greatest sheep\u2019s milk cheese I have ever tasted.\u201d Andrew\u2019s offers classes (\u201cCheese 101\u201d) and grilled cheese and beer nights. He carries a selection of wine and beer, breads, artisanal chocolates, and condiments. The shop has no seating but sells sandwiches to go.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.andrewscheese.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Andrew\u2019s Cheese Shop<\/a>&nbsp;<\/strong>728 Montana Avenue Santa Monica, CA 90403 310.393.3308<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Wally\u2019s Cheese Box<\/h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_1430\" style=\"width: 260px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Wallysscale.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1430\" class=\" wp-image-1430 \" title=\"Wally's Cheese\" alt=\"Piles of cheese at Wally's\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Wallysscale.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"334\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Wallysscale.jpg 240w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Wallysscale-224x300.jpg 224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 250px) 100vw, 250px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1430\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Part of the international cheese selection at Wally&#8217;s<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Wally\u2019s has been selling wine in Westwood since 1968 but opened its freestanding cheese shop just last year. Cheesemonger Jenny Knotts offers a carefully curated selection of domestic and imported cheese, with a special focus on hard-to-find cheeses, such as those made by Barbara Backus at Napa Valley\u2019s Goat\u2019s Leap Cheese. Her case displays around 200 cheeses and changes all the time. The day I visited, assistant monger Sophie Mosgrove highlighted a small-production Marzolino, a cow and sheep\u2019s milk blend from Italy, its rind rubbed with tomato. The Cheese Box sells sandwiches to go and has an outstanding selection of artisanal condiments and rare small-production chocolates. Wine staff are trained in cheese to help facilitate excellent pairings.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.wallyswine.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Wally\u2019s Cheese Box<\/a><\/strong> 2107 Westwood Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90025 310.475.0606 888.9.WALLYS<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills<\/h3>\n<p>Norbert Wabnig\u2019s beautiful shop, arguably LA\u2019s top cheese destination, reflects his meticulous and joyful approach to selling cheese. Wabnig bought the shop (open since 1967) in 1978. He has a particular affection for sheep\u2019s milk cheeses, and he parried my first request for something special with earthy Basque-style Txiki from northern California\u2019s Barinaga Ranch, then an exotic imported Pecorino wrapped in olive leaves and packed in a terra cotta jar. Beyond sheep, he steered me toward Grevenbroecker, a knockout Belgian blue. On a different day, he\u2019s quick to note, he might pick something else. While most of the Cheese Store\u2019s epic inventory (around 600 cheeses) is European, Wabnig describes his selection of American artisanal cheese as \u201cever expanding.\u201d He also sells a top-notch selection of wines and condiments, as well as custom made cheese-aging cabinets to take home. Curiosity goes hand in hand with pleasure, says Wabnig. \u201cIt isn\u2019t just about cheese; it\u2019s about a lifestyle of enjoyment: cheese, wine, olive oils. It\u2019s a constant adventure.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1429\" style=\"width: 260px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/BevHillsCheesestaff.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1429\" class=\" wp-image-1429 \" alt=\"Beverly Hills Cheese Store Staff\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/BevHillsCheesestaff.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"156\"><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1429\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The hands-on staff at The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, including owner Norbert Wabnig (far right)<\/p><\/div>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cheesestorebh.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills<\/a><\/strong> 419 N. Beverly Drive Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310.278.2855 800.547.1515 <\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Surfas Culinary District<\/h3>\n<p>Twenty years ago Surfas, a family owned restaurant supply wholesaler with a (then) tiny retail shop, was unknown to all but professional cooks and hardcore amateurs. A recent expansion made room for a caf\u00e9 and a massive selection of ingredients and equipment. David Rozansky, who presides over its in-house cheese shop, has an easy laugh and an eclectic background\u2014 he\u2019s worked as a chef, as a sommelier, and in a dairy in Israel. He loves fresh ch\u00e8vres and washed rind cheeses, such as Meadow Creek Dairy\u2019s Grayson. Laughing, Rozansky says that he\u2019s not afraid to admit he loves flavored cheeses as well, like English Harlech Horseradish and Beemster Gouda flavored with fresh wasabi juice. He also stocks beautiful charcuterie, such as lomo and jam\u00f3n serrano; wines for pairing; and such serving equipment as knives and boards.<\/p>\n<p><strong><em><a href=\"http:\/\/surfasonline.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Surfas<\/a><\/em><\/strong> 8777 Washington Boulevard Culver City, CA 90232 310.559.4770 866.799.4770 surfasonline.com<\/p>\n<h3>The Cheese Store of Silverlake<\/h3>\n<p>With a focus on finding new, artisanal products, the Cheese Store of Silverlake is a perfect fit for its hip, artistic neighborhood. Owner Chris Pollan spent 25 years working in the music business as a tour manager before learning cheese on the job at the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, and then striking out on his own in 2001. Pollan offers a range of domestic and international product. He and fellow monger Leah Park Fiero have vetted a diverse group of hard-to-find favorites, including Swiss Andeerer Traum, a Gruy\u00e8re-style raw cow\u2019s milk cheese; biochemist-turned-cheesemaker Soyoung Scanlan\u2019s Andante cheeses; and popular Stracchino, a creamy Italian classic made right in Los Angeles. Pollan is passionate about supporting American producers. This is reflected not just in his cheese case but also in the selection of wines, olive oils, and condiments that line the shop\u2019s high shelves. \u201cMore and more,\u201d he smiles, \u201cI like to support the home team.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cheesestoresl.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">The Cheese Store of Silverlake<\/a><\/strong><em> 3926-28 West Sunset Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90029 323.644.7511 877.644.7511<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n<h2>Block Busters<\/h2>\n<h3>Bay Cities Italian Deli<\/h3>\n<p>This deli and market, renowned for its overflowing sub sandwiches, has been open since 1925 and is packed at lunch, every day. On Thursdays it offers one of LA\u2019s best traditional mac \u2019n\u2019 cheeses, with a crunchy, garlicky top and a perfectly gooey mix of cheeses.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.baycitiesitaliandeli.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Bay Cities Italian Deli<\/a><\/strong> 1517 Lincoln Boulevard Santa Monica, CA 90401 310.395.8279 <\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Food Truck Frenzy<\/h3>\n<div id=\"attachment_1428\" style=\"width: 260px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/foodtruck.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1428\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1428 \" alt=\"Grilled Cheese Food Truck\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/foodtruck.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"175\"><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1428\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hungry Angelinos line up by the Grilled Cheese Truck<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Los Angeles&#8217;s streets are full of food trucks, some great, others best forgotten&gt; A good selection appears at Venice&#8217;s &#8220;First Fridays&#8221; street fair\/mob scene held on Abbey Kinney Boulevard the first Friday night of every month. Cheese lovers should investigate the Grilled Cheese Truck, the Poutine Truck, or Frysmith, which offers a range of cheese fries, including a bizarrely fantastic kimchi version.<br \/>\n<em><strong>Venice First Fridays<\/strong> First Friday of every month, 5\u201310 p.m. (roughly), food trucks congregate in the parking lot of the Brig. 1515 Abbot Kinney Boulevard Venice, CA 90291<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Pupusas<\/h3>\n<p>The Latin American answer to grilled cheese, El Salvadoran pupusas are flat cakes of corn masa filled with mild white cheese (meat and vegetables are also options) and griddled until crisp outside, melty within. They\u2019re served with a light tomato salsa and curbito, a typically spicy cabbage slaw. Two favorite places to indulge on a budget are La Pupusa Loca, a family joint in a Hollywood strip mall, and Delmy\u2019s Pupusas, a stand within the Sunday- morning Hollywood Farmers\u2019 Market.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong>La Pupusa Loca<\/strong> 5716 Santa Monica Boulevard Los Angeles, CA 90038 323.957.2967<\/em><\/p>\n<h2>Farmers\u2019 Markets<\/h2>\n<p>Farmers\u2019 markets operate throughout Los Angeles. Santa Monica\u2019s Saturday market features Jersey cow\u2019s milk cheeses from Spring Hill Cheese Company in Petaluma, California. On Sundays, Julian and Carol Pearce of Soledad Goats sell at the Hollywood Farmers\u2019 Market. Their lavender and lemon fresh goat cheese is outstanding. Also on Sundays the Larchmont Farmers Market has mobile monger Laurent Bonjour. The ebullient Frenchman (unmistakable in his giant hat) sells an improbable range of cheese from his tiny, super efficient truck.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.hollywoodfarmersmarket.net\/\" target=\"_blank\">Hollywood Farmers\u2019 Market<\/a><\/strong> Sunday 8:00 a.m.\u20131:00 p.m. Ivar Avenue (between Hollywood and Sunset Boulevard) and Selma Avenue (between Vine Street and Cahuenga Boulevard)<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Delmy\u2019s pupusas<\/strong> usually on Selma, west of Ivar, at the intersection of Cosmo Street.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Soledad Goats<\/strong> is usually at the intersection of Selma and Ivar. <\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.smgov.net\/portals\/farmersmarket\/\" target=\"_blank\">Santa Monica Downtown Farmers Market<\/a>&nbsp;<\/strong>Saturday 8:30 a.m.\u20131:00 p.m. Arizona Avenue (between 4th and 2nd Streets) Wednesday 8:30 a.m.\u20131:30 p.m. Arizona Avenue, (between 4th and Ocean)<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Larchmont Farmers Market<\/strong> Sunday 10:00 a.m.\u20132:00 p.m. 209 Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90004 South of Beverly Boulevard, in the parking lot on the west side of the street <\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Laurent Bonjour<\/strong> is usually at the northern end of the market. 310.678.6898<\/em><\/p>\n<h2>Restaurant Hits<\/h2>\n<h3>M\u00e9lisse<\/h3>\n<p>Reviewers often pick Josiah Citrin\u2019s M\u00e9lisse as the home of Los Angeles\u2019s best cheese cart; it\u2019s also known for its pricey tagliatelle with Parmesan foam and white truffles (only available in season).<br \/>\n<em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.melisse.com\/\">M\u00e9lisse<\/a><\/strong> 1104 Wilshire Boulevard Santa Monica, CA 90401 310.395.0881<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>The Tasting Kitchen<\/h3>\n<p>Andrew Steiner of Andrew\u2019s Cheese Shop provides the cheeses for this arty Venice restaurant run by expatriated Portland, Oregon, chef Casey Lane. On a recent menu, choices tended toward European cow\u2019s milk cheeses, many from the UK.<br \/>\n<em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.thetastingkitchen.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">The Tasting Kitchen<\/a><\/strong> 1633 Abbot Kinney Boulevard Venice, CA 90291 310.392.6644<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Comme \u00c7a<\/h3>\n<p>Chef David Myer\u2019s West Hollywood brasserie serves a great combination of Hollywood scene and comfort food. Killer mac and cheese and deservedly famous cheeseburgers are both made with artisanal domestic cheddar; fromagier Anthony Tyser puts together a solid \u201c5 for $25\u201d cheese plate.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1427\" style=\"width: 260px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Campanile.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1427\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1427 \" alt=\"Interior of Campanile\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Campanile.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Campanile.jpg 240w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/Campanile-220x300.jpg 220w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 250px) 100vw, 250px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1427\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining room at Campanile<\/p><\/div>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.commecarestaurant.com\/los-angeles\/\" target=\"_blank\">Comme \u00c7a<\/a><\/strong> 8479 Melrose Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90069 323.782.1104<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Campanile<\/h3>\n<p>Chefs Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton get credit for starting LA\u2019s grilled cheese craze with grilled cheese nights (every Thursday) at this Italian institution. Peel now runs the show (Silverton operates <a href=\"#moz\">Mozza<\/a>), and his menu offers different options according to the season; my pick is the classic with grilled onions and whole-grain mustard.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Campanile<\/strong> 624 S. La Brea Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90036 323.938.1447 <\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Cube Cafe, Cheese Bar &amp; Marketplace<\/h3>\n<p>The strange signage on the street doesn\u2019t give a clue to the elegant and hip interior of this restaurant. At tables and at the bar, Cube serves a thoughtful selection of domestic and international cheeses. Try the Cheesemonger\u2019s Choice plate with cheeses, salumi, and condiments. Paired with a couple of salads, this was more lunch than a hungry friend and I could finish.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.eatatcube.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Cube Caf\u00e9, Cheese Bar &amp; Marketplace<\/a><\/strong> 615 N. La Brea Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90036 323.939.1148<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>The Foundry on Melrose<\/h3>\n<p>Chef Eric Greenspan packs in customers for the food and the scene at his Melrose Avenue hot spot. He offers a bombshell of a grilled cheese sandwich made with taleggio, apricot-caper puree, and, if you like, short ribs; it was a winner at the 2008 Grilled Cheese Invitational.<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.thefoundryonmelrose.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">The Foundry on Melrose<\/a><\/strong> 7465 Melrose Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90046, 323.651.0915<\/em><\/p>\n<h3 id=\"moz\">Mozza<\/h3>\n<p>Angelenos just call it \u201cMozza,\u201d but the joint venture of restaurateurs Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich is really two restaurants. Pizzeria Mozza is next door to the much fancier (and pricier) Osteria Mozza, with its now-famous mozzarella bar. Both offer many cheese tastes, using a range of house-produced and imported cheeses, and the Pizzeria is a great option for late-night dining (hard to find in Los Angeles).<\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.pizzeriamozza.com\/LA\/home.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">Pizzeria Mozza<\/a><\/strong> 641 N. Highland Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90036 323.297.0101<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.osteriamozza.com\/%3Cbr%20\/%3ELA\/home.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">Osteria Mozza<\/a><\/strong> 6602 Melrose Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90038 323.297.0100<\/em><\/p>\n<p>[mappress mapid=&#8221;13&#8243;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When I moved to Los Angeles from New York in 1991, I couldn\u2019t understand why LA seemed so lacking when it came to gourmet provisions, including serious cheese. The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills was the exception, but it was beyond my grad student budget; I couldn\u2019t find much else. Twenty years later everything\u2019s changed. [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1589,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"coauthors":[132],"class_list":["post-1422","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Star Search - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A quest for great cheese leads to a dazzling prowl around Los Angeles\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/star-search\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Star Search\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A quest for great cheese leads to a dazzling prowl around Los Angeles\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/star-search\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"-0001-11-30T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-03-03T15:54:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/LAGeneral_123.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"800\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"532\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Paige Orloff\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Paige Orloff\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"10 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/star-search\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/star-search\/\",\"name\":\"Star Search - 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