{"id":1562,"date":"2013-12-09T16:06:41","date_gmt":"2013-12-09T21:06:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=1562"},"modified":"2014-03-03T10:54:09","modified_gmt":"2014-03-03T15:54:09","slug":"chicago","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chicago\/","title":{"rendered":"Chicago"},"content":{"rendered":"

Not long ago, specialty cheeses had a bumpy ride in this town known as the \u201cCity of Big Shoulders.\u201d In the mid-1980s, when I arrived at the Chicago Tribune to write about food and wine, cheese was of more than routine interest in only a few select restaurants\u2014mostly French\u2014and the occasional Italian and Germanic food market or wine shop. But things have changed mightily; the city is now ripe with artisanal food and beverage offerings. Not only are Chicago\u2019s talented chefs, sommeliers, and a growing number of retail merchants showcasing exceptional cheeses from around the world, but dairy farmers in rural Illinois and neighboring Wisconsin, Michigan, and Indiana are handcrafting cheeses of considerable character and charm. Most importantly, consumers on the receiving end of all this good cheese are ordering it with enthusiasm\u2014not just to taste, but also to discuss. Come to Chicago and you\u2019ll find the locals as eager to talk about cheese as they are to eat it.<\/p>\n

Cheese Shops and Markets<\/h2>\n

Fox & Obel<\/h3>\n

This upscale market in residential Streeterville downtown has matured with the neighborhood over the past eight years. Its spacious fromagerie is \u201cat the heart of the market,\u201d featuring a \u201cdiverse collection of American artisanal creations alongside Old World classics.\u201d In-market synergies include splendid bread and rolls from the bakery, a 60-seat caf\u00e9, a broad wine selection, and catering. The arrival earlier this year of cheesemonger Aaron Stek, who honed his marketing skills at Zingerman\u2019s in Ann Arbor, Michigan, has led to the addition of more regional Midwest cheeses and provides customers with cheese education opportunities.<\/p>\n

Fox & Obel<\/a><\/strong> 401 East Illinois Street Chicago, IL 312.410.7301<\/em><\/p>\n

Green City Market<\/h3>\n
\"Sign<\/a>

The Green City Market’s outdoor location.<\/p><\/div>\n

The urban green movement came early to Chicago, but it wasn\u2019t until this decade that a site in Lincoln Park was dedicated to twice-weekly farmers\u2019 markets. Among them, a cheese lover will find several producers from Illinois and neighboring states who deal out samples and are eager to discuss their vocation.<\/p>\n

Green City Market Outdoor Market<\/a><\/strong> (Wed. & Sat. from 7\u20131,May 6 to Oct. 31): Lincoln Park, 1750 North Clark Street Chicago, IL (south end, between Clark Street and Stockton Drive)<\/em>
\nGreen City Market Indoor Market<\/a><\/strong> (Wed. and Sat., 8\u20131, Nov. through April): Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, 2430 North Cannon Drive Chicago, IL<\/em><\/p>\n

Green Grocer Chicago<\/h3>\n

Cassie Green is queen of all she surveys, even if it\u2019s only a 900-square-foot storefront in the old West Town neighborhood. Green seasons her locavore and organic-focused foods\u2014largely Midwest offerings\u2014with humor (\u201cOwner\/ Stockgirl,\u201d reads her business card). There\u2019s a serious side as well, evidenced by a dozen-plus cheese selections and a recent partnership with Next Generation Organic Dairy, a Wisconsin producer.<\/p>\n

Green Grocer Chicago<\/a><\/strong> 1402 West Grand Avenue Chicago, IL 312.624.9508<\/em><\/p>\n

Marion Street Cheese Market<\/h3>\n

The western suburbs are well served by this retail shop and very attractive caf\u00e9. Pride, ecological concerns, and a quest for knowledge shape a selection of more than 150 cheeses sourced \u201coff the beaten path, all over the world.\u201d Potables include a cheese- friendly wine selection and locally brewed craft beers on draft. (The caf\u00e9\u2019s dinner menu offers five plates of geographically linked cheeses plus half a dozen \u00e0 la carte selections.) Cheeses are cut to order and patrons enjoy a Cheese of the Month Club.<\/p>\n

Marion Street Cheese Market<\/a><\/strong> 100 South Marion Street Oak Park, IL 708.725.7200<\/em><\/p>\n

Pastoral<\/h3>\n
\"Pastoral's<\/a>

Pastoral co-owner Greg O\u2019Neill shows off one of their giant wheels of cheese.<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cArtisan cheese, bread & wine\u201d reads the understated message on cards for this fast-track, two-store chain. There has to be more to it than that to win a national Outstanding Retailer of the Year award after only three years in business\u2014and there is. The flagship store, located on a block of small retail shops in the Lakeview neighborhood, is all of 382 square feet, yet, in the tradition of neighborhood cheese shops in Europe, Pastoral offers wine, charcuterie, olives, and freshly baked bread. (Salads and sandwiches are also available for carryout.) The selection is cleverly displayed; servers are alert and informed. But cheese, international and domestic and mostly artisanal, comes first. Co-owner Greg O\u2019Neill describes the venture as \u201can Marion Street Cheese Market adult candy store for those who love food and wine.\u201d A second Pastoral, located in the Loop business district, is somewhat larger and has tables for in-shop dining.<\/span><\/p>\n

Pastoral<\/a><\/strong> 2945 North Broadway Street Chicago, IL 773.472.4781<\/em>
\nPastoral<\/a><\/strong> 53 East Lake Street Chicago, IL 312.658.1250<\/em><\/p>\n

Trotter\u2019s To Go<\/h3>\n

At chef Charlie Trotter\u2019s small-scale food emporium in the Lincoln Park residential area near the DePaul University campus are original treats for takeout or catering and displays of cheese and wine. The cheese case usually contains 30\u201335 pre-wrapped selections, most of them from Europe.<\/p>\n

Trotter\u2019s To Go<\/strong> 1337 West Fullerton Avenue Chicago, IL 773.868.6510 (TROTTER’S TO GO HAS CLOSED AS OF 2013)<\/em><\/p>\n

Whole Foods Market Lincoln Park<\/h3>\n

The ecologically conscious Whole Foods chain has markets scattered throughout the Chicago area, but none generates the energy and excitement of this recently opened giant. The cheese department features a display of about 300 selections against a backdrop of mammoth wheels. Both the cheese and the wine inventories show a heavy American influence. Immediately adjacent is the 28-seat Da\u2019Vine Wine & Cheese Bar, where three-item tasting plates, cut to order, are $9. Just over the horizon is another bar dedicated to beer and spirits. Customers are invited to forage for take- home items or stroll and consume, glass in hand. Conversations with staff are encouraged.<\/p>\n

Whole Foods Market Lincoln Park<\/a><\/strong> 1550 North Kingsbury Street Chicago, IL 312.587.0648<\/em><\/p>\n

Eating Out<\/h2>\n

Bin 36<\/h3>\n
\"bin<\/a>

The cheese bar at bin 36<\/p><\/div>\n

No restaurant in Chicago has been more successful in marrying cheese and wine for a diverse audience of diners, daters, and wine fanciers than Bin 36. From numbered bins located throughout the expansive space comes a panoply of vintage bottles, many of them served in three-wine tasting flights. Five years ago the concept was broadened dramatically with the introduction of a sit-down cheese bar, which displays about 40 cheeses for individual consumption or service in tasting flights. Fromagier Antonio Ramirez is responsible for the purchase, care, and serving of the international selection, which includes the top-selling flight Six Cheeses You Can\u2019t Live Without ($18).<\/p>\n

Bin 36<\/a><\/strong> 339 North Dearborn Street Chicago, IL 312.755.9463<\/em><\/p>\n

Blackbird<\/h3>\n

This restaurant and its ex-executive chef, Paul Kahan, have earned awards and citations for developing a distinctive form of affordable modern fine dining. Consider the cheese course: five stellar cheeses are avail- able on the dinner menu for $8 each; a tasting portion of all five is $15. Seasonality is a factor in choosing both the cheeses and the garnishes, which might include local breakfast radishes, house-smoked almonds, and rhubarb mostarda. Cheeses might include triple-cream Picolo from California, Wisconsin\u2019s Ocooch Mountain aged sheep\u2019s milk, and Saint Auger Bleu from France. (\u201cWhile we like using domestic products, we often highlight French cheeses, as some have no peer,\u201d comments pastry chef Bryce Caron.)<\/p>\n

Blackbird<\/a><\/strong> 619 West Randolph Street Chicago, IL 312.715.0708<\/em><\/p>\n

Boka<\/h3>\n

When executive sous-chef Carl Shelton returned from a cheese- making excursion under the tutelage of Wisconsin dairy farmers, he was empowered to refocus the international cheese plate program at Boka to a list with seven Wisconsin-made artisan cheeses. A 20 percent increase in cheese plate sales followed six weeks of serving only local varieties. Three favorites are Burning Nettle Gouda from Holland\u2019s Family Farm, Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Up- lands Cheese Company, and Carr Valley Cheese Company\u2019s Coco Cardona. A selection of three cheeses is $12; six is $20. Presentation includes accompaniments such as balsamic reduction, cranberry-ginger chutney, fig paste, hickory nuts, and quince preserves.<\/p>\n

Boka<\/a><\/strong> 1729 North Halsted Street Chicago, IL 312.337.6070<\/em><\/p>\n

Caf\u00e9 des Architectes<\/h3>\n

The French Sofitel Water Tower hotel and its personable French chef, Martial Nougier, have built a coterie of admirers in Chicago, in part by welcoming locals and putting them at ease. A recent Fromage Menu in the caf\u00e9 offered ten cheeses\u2014five French and three American. In addition are three-cheese flights, one \u201cSo French,\u201d the other \u201cSo American.\u201d \u00c0 la carte cheeses ($3 for each one-ounce portion) are generously garnished; a seven-cheese tasting, meant for sharing, is $26.<\/p>\n

Caf\u00e9 des Architectes<\/a><\/strong> Sofitel Chicago Water Tower, 20 East Chestnut Street Chicago, IL 312.324.4063<\/em><\/p>\n

The Gage<\/h3>\n
\"A<\/a>

Roast saddle elk at the Gage.<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s standing room only at this 300-seat gastropub with a prime location on Michigan Avenue directly across from Millennium Park. A fan of artisanal cheeses, inventive chef Dirk Flanigan offers his versions of fondue and goat cheese risotto as well as a daily three-cheese tasting plate ($16).<\/p>\n

The Gage<\/a><\/strong> 24 South Michigan Avenue Chicago, IL 312.372.4243<\/em><\/p>\n

Hot Chocolate<\/h3>\n

Widely recognized as an outstanding dessert chef, Mindy Segal surprised her many fans when she opened Hot Chocolate in funky Wicker Park as a full-service restaurant. She recognizes cheese in an evolving ten-item selection ($12 for three), which features primarily Midwest producers but also may include those from Oregon, Virginia, and Louisiana. Equally appealing are dishes cooked with cheese that appear elsewhere on the menu, such as tuna-and- cheddar melts; Krema Kasa and lamb sausage; and a better-than-mom\u2019s macaroni and cheese.<\/p>\n

Hot Chocolate<\/a><\/strong> 1747 North Damen Avenue Chicago, IL 773.489.1747<\/em><\/p>\n

Les Nomades<\/h3>\n

\u201cNotable French cheeses,\u201d announces the menu at one of the city\u2019s most admired restaurants. The cheeses, offered as part of a four- or five-course prix-fixe dinner or \u00e0 la carte ($22 for a selection), are carefully tended, arriving at the table on a classic board upon which they are cut to order by a well-informed server. The restaurant\u2019s remarkable wine selection offers the possibility of experiencing a truly memorable pairing.<\/p>\n

Les Nomades<\/a><\/strong> 222 East Ontario Street Chicago, IL 312.649.9010<\/em><\/p>\n

North Pond<\/h3>\n

This antique, romantic dining destination is set beside a tree-lined pond in Lincoln Park. Thanks to chef Bruce Sherman, it\u2019s also a showcase for a spectrum of vibrant sustainable and organic foods, many of which\u2014cheese included\u2014are offered at the Green City Market. Cheese is presented as a separate course and typically consists of four selections plus breads with nut and fruit garnishes.<\/p>\n

North Pond<\/a><\/strong> 2610 North Cannon Drive Chicago, IL 773.477.5845<\/em><\/p>\n

Spiaggia<\/h3>\n
\"A<\/a>

Spiaggia’s botanical cheeses<\/p><\/div>\n

Perhaps the Midwest\u2019s premier luxury Italian restaurant, this second-floor palazzo displays the depth of Spiaggia\u2019s commitment to cheese for all to see. Posed next to the reception stand is the Cava di Stagionatura, a climate-controlled cave dedicated to maturing a unique selection of 30 to 40 artisanal creations imported from Italy, such as Robiola Tre Latte from Piedmont and Pecorino Nero di Pienza. A handful of American-made cheeses sleep elsewhere. A single cheese and garnish is $8; tasting portions of three to thirteen cheeses are $21 to $45; and Cava cheeses are also available next door at Caf\u00e9 Spiaggia.<\/p>\n

Spiaggia<\/a><\/strong> 980 North Michigan Avenue 2nd floor Chicago, IL 312.280.2750<\/em><\/p>\n

Terzo Piano<\/h3>\n

The Art Institute of Chicago\u2019s Modern Wing, open since May, offers the proverbial feast for the senses. Taste reigns in the third-floor Terzo Piano restaurant, where patrons enjoy artistic sandwiches, fresh pasta creations, salads, and sculptural desserts. In addition, chef Tony Mantuano has installed a climate-controlled cheese cave similar to the one in his luxury Italian restaurant, Spiaggia (see p. 28). Here, however, the emphasis is on cheeses forged by artisanal American producers such as Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheese and Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, a dozen of which are available at $4 per selection.<\/p>\n

Terzo Piano<\/a><\/strong> 159 East Monroe Street Chicago, IL 312.443.8650<\/em><\/p>\n

Vie<\/h3>\n

Paul Virant, the personable young chef- owner of Vie, a beacon for fine dining in the southwestern suburbs, has developed strong ties to regional farmers and producers. He presents a trio of his discoveries nightly on a domestic cheese plate ($16) representing different styles, paired with house-made preserves or local honey. In the kitchen, fresh Illinois sheep\u2019s cheese is combined with wood-grilled leeks; aged Wisconsin cheddar flavors beignets.<\/p>\n

Vie<\/a><\/strong> 4471 Lawn Avenue Western Springs, IL 708.246.2082<\/em><\/p>\n

Bars and Casual Spots<\/h2>\n

Avec<\/h3>\n

This cigar-box-like tiny eatery with communal tables and an internationally inspired palette of treats is a grazer\u2019s nirvana. A dozen European cheeses are offered at $15 for three; carefully chosen wines are agreeably priced. Open daily from 3:30 p.m. to midnight or later.<\/p>\n

Avec<\/a><\/strong> 615 West Randolph Street Chicago, IL 312.377.2002<\/em><\/p>\n

Pops for Champagne<\/h3>\n

Sparkling wine (more than a hundred labels) and live jazz share the spotlight at this sleek State Street nightclub. Sixteen cheeses are available ($3 to $6 for one-ounce portions) with wine pairing suggestions. Open daily from midafternoon to 2 a.m.<\/p>\n

Pops for Champagne<\/strong><\/a> 601 North State Street Chicago, IL 312.266.7677<\/em><\/p>\n

Rootstock Wine & Beer Bar<\/h3>\n
\"A<\/a>

Rootstock’s cheese plate, complete with pairings<\/p><\/div>\n

In May, three wine bar alums opened a cozy storefront bar with mismatched furniture, linoleum floors, and rotating displays of local artwork in the gastronomically under- served Humboldt Park. Head chef Remy Ayesh, a former fromagier from Spiaggia, cooks up tasty handmade delicacies from seasonal ingredients: small plates of bar snacks and charcuterie, a pair of salads, and six domestic artisan cheeses with \u201ccrusts\u201d (flatbreads), including one topped with prosciutto, figs in lavender honey, arugula, and homemade minted ricotta. The cheeses ($4 apiece or $18 for all six) are accompanied by a selection of Ayesh\u2019s seasonal jams. Rootstock\u2019s impressive beverage list offers two dozen microbrew beers and a roster of boutique wines\u201418 by the glass, 65 by the bottle.<\/p>\n

Rootstock Wine & Beer Bar<\/a><\/strong> 954 North California Avenue Chicago, IL 773.292.1616<\/em><\/p>\n

The Tasting Room<\/h3>\n

Tucked away at the west end of restaurant-studded Randolph Street, the Tasting Room is just that\u2014and a retail shop as well. Locals stop by for pre-dinner sipping (100 wines by the glass; $8 to $21) and noshing (15 cheeses; $5 to $6.) Romantics come late-night for views of the downtown Loop skyline.<\/p>\n

The Tasting Room<\/a><\/strong> 1415 West Randolph Street Chicago, IL 312.942.1313<\/em><\/p>\n

Webster\u2019s Wine Bar<\/h3>\n

A fixture on Webster Avenue since 1994, low-key, comfortable Webster\u2019s claims to be Chicago\u2019s oldest wine
\nbar. Thirty-five wines by the glass (and 500 bottles available) plus beers and spirits complement small-plate appetizers, tapas, and an ambitious list of international regional specialties, plus ten cheeses. Lengthy descriptions of each cheese include suggested wine pairings; three-cheese flights are $12; single, one-ounce servings are $4.50.<\/p>\n

Webster\u2019s Wine Bar<\/a><\/strong> 1480 West Webster Avenue Chicago, IL 773.868.0608<\/em><\/p>\n

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Not long ago, specialty cheeses had a bumpy ride in this town known as the \u201cCity of Big Shoulders.\u201d In the mid-1980s, when I arrived at the Chicago Tribune to write about food and wine, cheese was of more than routine interest in only a few select restaurants\u2014mostly French\u2014and the occasional Italian and Germanic food […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1564,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"coauthors":[144],"class_list":["post-1562","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChicago - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A Midwestern Mecca for cheese devotees.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chicago\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chicago\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A Midwestern Mecca for cheese devotees.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chicago\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"-0001-11-30T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-03-03T15:54:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"William Rice\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"William Rice\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"12 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chicago\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chicago\/\",\"name\":\"Chicago - 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