{"id":1703,"date":"2009-06-24T21:12:07","date_gmt":"2009-06-25T01:12:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=1703"},"modified":"2014-05-29T10:37:34","modified_gmt":"2014-05-29T14:37:34","slug":"in-the-pink","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/in-the-pink\/","title":{"rendered":"In the Pink: Ros\u00e9 Wine and Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"

Choosing an ideal summer wine for cheese lovers makes me think about Mr. Caputo, who sells the best mozzarella in New York City, if not the entire country. That\u2019s a grand brag, I admit, but it\u2019s true. Mr. Caputo, a little man of few words, refuses to let his hand-pulled mozzarella ever feel the chill of a refrigerator. And, since the health department doesn\u2019t approve of this, he simply makes it about every hour and a half (at Caputo\u2019s Fine Foods, 460 Court St., Brooklyn). Within minutes, each newly formed ball, held in milky water, fills the shape of the container, begging to be let out of its plastic prison. Whisk it home, slice, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt, and all you need to complete this fabulous meal is a tomato, crusty bread, and a bottle of wine.<\/p>\n

And therein lies the problem. What goes with such a simple milky-sweet, lactic cheese? Most whites tend to be fine\u2014neither remarkable nor bad, just nonproblematic. Reds are more challenging, putting up gritty tannins against the soft curd, and overwhelming the delicate dairy flavor with red fruit flavor.<\/p>\n

Which is why I\u2019ve decided, after extensive informal testing, that ros\u00e9 is the way to go for fresh, milky cheese like this. Most ros\u00e9 is made by soaking the pulp of red wine grapes with their skins just long enough for the wine to take on some color; it also takes on some red fruit flavor without the tannic roughness. The best ros\u00e9s for mozzarella are dry as a stone. But beyond dryness, nearly anything goes.<\/p>\n

Strangely, given the origin of mozzarella, I\u2019ve had the least luck with Italian rosatos, save for a random Cerasuolo (Nicodemi) or rare, earthy Nebbiolo (Cantalupo); pink wine just doesn\u2019t seem to run in Italian blood. The best pairings generally happen over French ros\u00e9s, particularly those from the south, where the sun and the smell of the herb-covered hillsides tend to infiltrate the bottles.<\/p>\n

To choose the best from the huge number of Proven\u00e7al ros\u00e9s, search out bottles from small appellations within Provence, such as Les Baux de Provence, where Mas de Gourgonnier turns out a richly colored, cherry-intense version from its organic vineyards. Or go straight to Bandol, Provence\u2019s most prized appellation, where reliance on the meaty, animale flavors of the local Mourv\u00e8dre grape give extra backbone and elegance to wines like Domaine de l\u2019Hermitage l\u2019Oratoire or Domaines Ott Cuv\u00e9e Marine.<\/p>\n

You\u2019ll note that these wines don\u2019t tend to list any grape names on their labels; most are blends, largely relying on local grapes such as Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Mourv\u00e8dre. Follow these grapes around the world, and you\u2019ll find plenty of similar ros\u00e9s, from blends such as Bonny Doon\u2019s Vin Gris de Cigare (vin gris is a French term for a pale ros\u00e9) in California to single-variety ros\u00e9s like S.C. Pannell\u2019s juicy Grenache Ros\u00e9 from the sunny climes of Australia\u2019s McLaren Vale.<\/p>\n

But it also pays to stray from the Proven\u00e7al mode. Big, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon makes up a surprisingly large chunk of Bieler P\u00e8re et Fils delicate Cuv\u00e9e Sabine from the Coteaux d\u2019Aix-en-Provence, adding color and oomph (although not enough to send the mozzarella flavors fleeing).<\/p>\n

Even the Greeks have gotten in on the game, producing lushly fruited almost-reds from Agiorgitiko in the Peloponnese to rose-scented pinks from Xinomavro in Amyndeon far to the north. And Greek ros\u00e9s (and all ros\u00e9s, for that matter) have another major strength: they are some of the few wines that can deal with feta, having just the right amount of red fruit flavor without any of the tannin that salty cheese exaggerates.<\/p>\n

So find a good source of fresh mozzarella, stock the fridge with feta, and put in a store of ros\u00e9\u2014you\u2019ll be set with staples for a stove-free summer of great meals.<\/p>\n

Recommended Dry Ros\u00e9s<\/h3>\n

Bieler P\u00e8re et Fils 2008 Coteaux d\u2019Aix-en-Provence Ros\u00e9 Sabine<\/strong> (France; $11) USA Wine West, Sausalito, Calif.<\/a><\/p>\n

Bonny Doon 2007 California Vin Gris de Cigare<\/strong><\/a> (California; $14)<\/p>\n

Charles & Charles 2008 Columbia Valley Talcott Vineyard Syrah Ros\u00e9<\/strong><\/a> (Washington; $12)<\/p>\n

Domaine de Fontsainte 2007 Corbi\u00e8res Ros\u00e9 Gris de Gris (France; $15) Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.<\/em><\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Gaia 2008 Peloponnese Ros\u00e9 14-18h<\/strong> (Greece; $18) Athenee Importers, Hempstead, N.Y.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Domaine de l\u2019Hermitage 2007 Bandol l\u2019Oratoire<\/strong> (France; $29) Domaine Select Wine Estates, N.Y.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Kir-Yianni 2008 Amyndeon Akakies<\/strong> (Greece; $17) V.O.S. Selections, N.Y.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Mas de Gourgonnier 2008 Les Baux de Provence Ros\u00e9<\/strong> (France; $14) Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Nicodemi 2007 Montepulciano d\u2019Abruzzo Cerasuolo<\/strong> (Italy; $18) Montecastelli Selections, N.Y.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Domaines Ott 2007 Bandol Ch\u00e2teau Romassan Cuv\u00e9e Marine<\/strong> (France; $40) Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, Calif.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

S.C. Pannell 2007 Grenache Ros\u00e9<\/strong> (Australia; $20) Epicurean Wines, Seattle, Wash.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

Soter Vineyards 2008 North Valley Pinot Noir Ros\u00e9<\/strong><\/a> (Oregon; $40)<\/p>\n

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2008 Paso Robles Cuv\u00e9e Ros\u00e9<\/strong><\/a> (California; $27)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Reach for a crisp and cold ros\u00e9 wine to match the simple milky-sweet, lactic cheeses (like fresh mozzarella) in summer salads<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":9294,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[543],"tags":[572,149],"coauthors":[141,157],"class_list":["post-1703","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-pairings","tag-cheese-and-drinks-2","tag-wine"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIn the Pink: Ros\u00e9 Wine and Cheese - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Reach for a crisp and cold ros\u00e9 wine to match the simple milky-sweet, lactic cheeses (like fresh mozzarella) in summer salads\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/in-the-pink\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In the Pink: Ros\u00e9 Wine and Cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Reach for a crisp and cold ros\u00e9 wine to match the simple milky-sweet, lactic cheeses (like fresh mozzarella) in summer salads\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/in-the-pink\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grantgbradley\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2009-06-25T01:12:07+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-05-29T14:37:34+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/pine-rose-wine-featured-750x368.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Tara Q. 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