{"id":18702,"date":"2015-03-13T15:56:23","date_gmt":"2015-03-13T19:56:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=18702"},"modified":"2015-03-13T15:56:23","modified_gmt":"2015-03-13T19:56:23","slug":"bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king\/","title":{"rendered":"Bon Fromage: Epoisses, the Creamy King"},"content":{"rendered":"

Intern Gabrielle Roman looks into what makes French cheeses tick for her blog series, Bon Fromage. Meant to answer any questions you might have but were afraid to ask about cheese made from the country famous for fromage, each post will focus on a specific cheese and take a deep dive into its history and production. Take the plunge and demystify the world of French cheese. If you missed it, check out last week\u2019s post on Valen\u00e7ay, Napoleon\u2019s bane<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Don\u2019t worry, I would never make you read through an entire post guessing how to pronounce the full name of this cheese. Although the name \u00c9poisses can stand alone, tacking on the \u201cde Bourgogne\u201d at the end lets you know its production was entirely in the region of Burgundy. Because \u00c9poisses is supposed<\/em> to be made in Burgundy, I think it\u2019s only fair to give geography its due and learn how to pronounce the full name. When pronouncing \u00c9poisses, drop off the last several letters and avoid saying the \u201coi\u201d like you would in boil or purloin. In this case, the \u201coi\u201d forms a \u201cwah\u201d sound, making \u00c9poisses sound like \u201cay-PWOSS,\u201d with the emphasis on the second half of the word. As for Bourgogne, the first \u201cg\u201d is hard and the second is soft. Divide the word into three syllables and sound out \u201cbore-go-nyah.\u201d Your best bet is to go ask a native French speaker to make a recording for you in order to get all the subtleties, but this guide should do for now.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Ch\u00e2teau d’\u00c9poisses<\/p><\/div>\n

The history of \u00c9poisses stretches back hundreds of years (much in the manner of other French cheeses we\u2019ve looked at) and its origins are a little murky (also not unusual). What we do know is the cheese got its name after the town it was originally produced in, which is about 150 miles southeast of Paris. Some sources say \u00c9poisses was first produced in the 1600s; others argue it was the early 1500s. Either way, \u00c9poisses is at least 400 years old. Its production started in a Cistercian community (read: monks) in the town of \u00c9poisses. If you remember back to the history of Maroilles<\/a>, that cheese was produced by farmers at the request of local monks. \u00c9poisses, on the other hand, was made by the monks themselves at L’Abbaye de Citeaux. Monks lived and made \u00c9poisses for nearly two hundred years before they picked up and left.<\/p>\n

A whole TV series could be made about the origins of \u00c9poisses and why the monks mysteriously abandoned the town\u2014I\u2019m sure Hollywood writers could come up with a great conspiracy\u2014but I unfortunately don\u2019t have any intrigue to provide. I don’t know why<\/em> the monks left, just that before they did, they taught the local people how to make the cheese so that traditions of \u00c9poisses passed down for many generations. This system worked great. In the early 1900s, \u00c9poisses was still in demand\u2014more than 300 farms in France produced it.<\/p>\n

\"Berthaut<\/a><\/center><\/p>\n

World War II put \u00c9poisses on the endangered list and nearly wiped it out altogether. When all the men left for war, the population dropped significantly and the women who took over the farms did not have the time to focus on cheesemaking processes. This could have meant the end of \u00c9poisses, but in 1956 Robert and Simone Berthaut breathed new life into the stinky cheese. Using the knowledge of a small group of people who still knew the traditional methods, they grew \u00c9poisses back into popularity and today the Berthaut label is still the predominant producer of \u00c9poisses. The significance of the Berthuats\u2019 efforts are maybe most impressive for the fact that \u00c9poisses gained AOC status in 1991. Now all \u00c9poisses must be made in Burgundy. Not only did one family bring an entire cheese back from the brink, but its production methods and geographic origin are completely protected. How\u2019s that for impressive?<\/p>\n

All right, so there\u2019s this traditional method of production that now has to follow AOC regulations. How do you make \u00c9poisses, then? The most distinctive addition to \u00c9poisses is marc de Bourgogne<\/i>, or marc for short. Marc is a pomace brandy local to Burgundy. What the heck does that mean? After grapes are pressed and all the juices from that process are diverted to the wine, the leftover skins, stems, and seeds of the grapes are mixed together to form a pomace. Left to ferment, this pomace turns into marc, or a brandy made from pomace.<\/p>\n

\"Epoisses<\/a>

Workers at Fromagerie Berthaut wash young wheels of \u00c9poisses with a salt-and-Marc de Bourgogne solution<\/p><\/div>\n

Marc is used to wash \u00c9poisses as it ages, which lends the cheese its distinctive color, smell, and even adds to the taste. The marc allows Bacterium linens mold to develop<\/a> which makes the rind of the cheese a red-orange color. According to AOC regulations no dyes may be used in the production of the cheese, so that color you see on \u00c9poisses is all thanks to fermented grape remains and bacteria growth. Yum.<\/p>\n

Other AOC regulations determine that \u00c9poisses must be made from unpasteurized cow\u2019s milk, specifically from Brown Swiss cows of the French Simmental and Montbeliarde breeds. The cows have to be fed a diet that is 85 percent food from the geographic area of production\u2014more than even required for the Lacuane sheep that make milk for Roquefort. Curds must be cut rather than broken by hand and are handled gently, allowed to drain naturally. Producers want \u00c9poisses to retain as much moisture as possible, which lends to the texture of the cheese.<\/p>\n

\"Wheels<\/a>

Wheels of \u00c9poisses age on metal racks.<\/p><\/div>\n

You see, \u00c9poisses is a soft cheese. A really soft cheese. When aged for forty days, it\u2019s like the texture of a pudding\u2014if you let it reach room temperature. And you should really let it reach room temperature. The softness means you\u2019ll see a lot of pictures of people eating this cheese with a spoon, and it\u2019s often spread onto bread and crackers because it is so soft. Like all washed-rind cheeses, \u00c9poisses stinks but the interior tastes milder than the stinky exterior. My personal favorite description of \u00c9poisses was from Murray\u2019s cheese shop<\/a>, which called it \u201ca custardy bacon bomb.\u201d In addition to the meaty taste of the cheese, you\u2019ll also get salt and butter and maybe earthy and nutty notes.<\/p>\n

\u00c9poisses is always served in small rounds that are either 10 or 18 cm in diameter, or about 4 to 7 inches. They are stored in circular, wooden boxes. Not only do these boxes make the cheese look fancy, but they serve as an effective way to transport it, especially considering how soft and prone to damage \u00c9poisses is during transportation.<\/p>\n

Like Valen\u00e7ay, it\u2019s unlikely you\u2019ll ever find AOC-approved \u00c9poisses in a US cheese shop. Because it\u2019s made from unpasteurized cow\u2019s milk, the cheese must age for 60 days before crossing US borders. \u00c9poisses typically ages for 4\u20135 weeks but doesn\u2019t sit on shelves for weeks and weeks after that. It\u2019s really looking like time to buy that plane ticket overseas.<\/p>\n

\"Brillat-Savarin<\/a>

Title page and portrait of Brillat-Savarin from his book The Physiology of Taste<\/em>. A cheese lover, Brillat-Savarin said, “A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye.” So, he was also kind of a jerk.<\/p><\/div>\n

If you’re disappointed about the lack of Napoleon this week, fear not! He returns. Although he never stabbed \u00c9poisses with a sword (that we know of), it was apparently one of his favorite cheeses. So that adds more points for Napoleon on our culture<\/strong> king count. Not only was \u00c9poisses the favorite of an emperor, but it was also the favorite of one of France\u2019s most famous gastronomes. Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755\u20131826) was a politician and philosopher but gained fame as an epicure and has all sorts of pithy sayings regarding style and food. He famously declared \u00c9poisses to be \u201cthe king of cheese.\u201d I don\u2019t know if this was an intentional challenge to Roquefort<\/a>, but I’ll leave you to taste both and decide what you think.<\/p>\n

culture<\/strong> king count:<\/p>\n

First place: Charlemagne with 5 points (as overseer of all things goat and essentially creating France)<\/p>\n

Second place: Napoleon Bonaparte with 3 points (Valen\u00e7ay, \u00c9poisses, and some serious swagger)<\/p>\n

Third place: Charles VI with 2 points (Roquefort and Maroilles)<\/p>\n

(Tied for) Fourth: Philip II, Louis IX, Francis I with 1 point (Maroilles)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dig into the details about \u00c9poisses, a spoonable cheese with a strong smell and big taste. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":56,"featured_media":18769,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[],"coauthors":[712],"class_list":["post-18702","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBon Fromage: Epoisses, the Creamy King - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bon Fromage: Epoisses, the Creamy King\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dig into the details about \u00c9poisses, a spoonable cheese with a strong smell and big taste.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2015-03-13T19:56:23+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/03\/BonFromage_Epoisses_ftr.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gabrielle Roman\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gabrielle Roman\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/bon-fromage-epoisses-the-creamy-king\/\",\"name\":\"Bon Fromage: Epoisses, the Creamy King - 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