{"id":1896,"date":"2010-03-03T08:00:36","date_gmt":"2010-03-03T13:00:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=1896"},"modified":"2016-04-21T11:10:20","modified_gmt":"2016-04-21T15:10:20","slug":"chenin-blanc-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chenin-blanc-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese + Wine: Chenin Blanc"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The aha moment came over a bowl of pasta carbonara. Egg, bacon, cheese, pasta: so simple, yet so challenging to find a wine that can put up with that level of richness and respect the dish\u2019s comforting blandness. Not that I cared much on this particular night; it was late and I just wanted to eat.<\/p>\n<p>So I poured a glass of what was open: Champalou Vouvray, a chenin blanc from France, not thinking about it until the combination hit my tongue. It was impossibly good. The wine had the acidity to cut through the richness, but its slight sweetness drew out the salty Parmesan notes.<\/p>\n<p>Would it be this good with just Parmesan? It was, in fact. The briny cheese picked up the sugars in the wine, and the wine didn\u2019t blink in the face of all that condensed milk fat. I broke out a semi-soft washed rind cheese, and the pairing celebrated its slight funk; with Gruy\u00e8re, it wasn\u2019t perfect, but it wasn\u2019t far off, either.<\/p>\n<p><center><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/DryCreekVineyard.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-1914\" alt=\"A bunch of supple Chenin grapes hang from the vine.\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/DryCreekVineyard.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/DryCreekVineyard.jpg 540w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/DryCreekVineyard-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px\" \/><\/a><\/center><\/p>\n<h4>Chenin blanc and cheese: <em>What took me so long?<\/em><\/h4>\n<p>Oh, right\u2014because for ages the only chenin blanc we knew in the U.S. was the stuff that filled jugs. And the number of great examples that make it outside California\u2019s borders can still be counted on one hand. It\u2019s these light, innocuous chenins that cheese-and-wine-pairing chart writers have in mind when they fill in \u201cchenin\u201d next to cheeses such as mozzarella, Oaxaca, and \u201cbaby\u201d Swiss.<\/p>\n<p>Move beyond these bottlings, however, and the wine begins to get really interesting. With its naturally high acidity, the grape is capable of producing everything from sparklers to syrupy-sweet stickies\u2014which means there\u2019s a type for every cheese. Here\u2019s a taste of what various styles of chenin can do for your cheese plate.<\/p>\n<h3>SPARKLING<\/h3>\n<p>Chenin\u2019s high acidity makes it a natural varietal for sparkling wines. Most of the examples we see in the U.S. come from France\u2019s Loire Valley, particularly Vouvray; they may be denoted by the term <i lang=\"fr\">mousseux<\/i> (sparkling) or, more reassuringly, <i lang=\"fr\">cr\u00e9mant<\/i>, which signifies a sparkling wine made in the same labor-intensive way as Champagne. The best offer creamy fruitiness, like that of super-ripe pear, with nuances of flowers, hay, and lime, and tiny bubbles\u2014absolutely the sort of characteristics that would play up the hedonistic side of a triple-cr\u00e8me, like Pierre Robert.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Marquis de Goulaine Cr\u00e9mant de Loire ($13)<\/li>\n<li>Domaine de Vaugondy Vouvray Brut ($15)<\/li>\n<li>Champalou Vouvray Brut ($20)<\/li>\n<li>Francois Pinon NV Vouvray Brut ($22)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>SWEET &amp; SWEETER<\/h3>\n<p>When chenin\u2019s powerful acidity meets bodacious sweetness, it melds to form a tension that carries flavor like a note expertly plucked on a violin string. Look for Loire versions labeled <i lang=\"fr\">moelleux<\/i>, particularly in Montlouis and Vouvray, or for wines from the sweet-only appellation of Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume. Washington State also puts out some pressed from frozen grapes. Pour them as you would any sweet white wine: with blues for certain or with hard cheeses that have aged so long they\u2019ve acquired those lovely, crunchy crystals of tangy sweetness.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Ch\u00e2teau Soucherie Coteaux du Layon ($23)<\/li>\n<li>Kiona Red Mountain (Washington) Chenin Blanc Ice Wine ($25)<\/li>\n<li>Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Moelleux ($45)<\/li>\n<li>Hu\u00ebt Vouvray Moelleux Le Clos de Bourg ($50)<\/li>\n<li>Ch\u00e2teau Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume ($55)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div id=\"attachment_1915\" style=\"width: 550px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/MANvintners.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1915\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1915\" alt=\"A view of the fields of MAN Vintners in South Africa\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/MANvintners.jpg\" width=\"540\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/MANvintners.jpg 540w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/12\/MANvintners-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1915\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">MAN Vintners, South Africa<\/p><\/div>\n<h3>LIGHT &amp; DRY<\/h3>\n<p>You wouldn\u2019t know it from looking at the shelves in our wine shops, but South Africa grows more chenin blanc than any other grape. The country excels at crafting wines at the light, fresh end of the chenin spectrum; the examples that come Stateside, at any rate, tend to be clean, bright, and lively with limey flavor. Most California examples fall at this end of the spectrum, too.<\/p>\n<p>In France, look to the western end of the Central Loire Valley, in Touraine, for light, dry chenins. Vouvray, the region\u2019s most famous appellation, can be so light as to imitate water; others can have piercing acidity and deep flavor that will last for decades. Across the river in Montlouis-sur-Loire, wines tend to be a little less edgy, but all of these share a delicacy lifted by nervy acidity. These are your salad wines, your fresh cheese wines, the sort made to highlight a new goat cheese or even a barrel-aged feta tossed with spring greens.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>MAN Vintners Coastal Region Chenin Blanc ($10)<\/li>\n<li>Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($12)<\/li>\n<li>Vinum Cellars Clarksburg CNW Chenin Blanc ($12)<\/li>\n<li>La Craie Vouvray ($16)<\/li>\n<li>Catherine &amp; Pierre Breton Vouvray La Dilettante Sec ($24)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>RICH &amp; DRY<\/h3>\n<p>This is where chenin gets seriously exciting, managing to pull off the near-impossible trick of tasting as rich as drippy, sweet pears, apricots, or even pineapple and honey, and yet leaving the mouth feeling fresh and dry.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s also where the grape gets weirdest. Chenin has a certain funk\u2014to me, it smells like sheep; the wool, mostly, but often a bit of the barnyard, too. You might prefer to think of it as soft, ripe cheese. And a soft, ripe cheese tends to draw out that funk even further.<\/p>\n<p>Next to a M\u00fcnster or other fragrant cheese, this is a beautiful thing. The fruit in the wine works like the fruit on a cheese plate; the hay and the earth echo the animal notes in the cheese. Give these richer styles of chenin a few years in the cellar and they\u2019ll add nutty notes to the mix\u2014completing your cheese plate.<\/p>\n<p>To find these styles, head east of Touraine, in Saumur and Anjou (where you\u2019ll find the famed subappellation of Savenni\u00e8res). The climate is milder, being closer to the moderating influence of the Atlantic, and so the grapes grow riper. Or head up to Jasni\u00e8res, which is technically in Touraine but so far north of the river it really qualifies as its own world; the few examples from this region that arrive in the States tend to be on the richer side.<\/p>\n<p>Or look for dry styles from appellations known more for sweet wines (see below), as some of these producers turn very ripe grapes into powerful dry wines.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Pascal Janvier Jasni\u00e8res ($18)<\/li>\n<li>Jo Pithon Anjou Blanc Les Berg\u00e8res ($26)<\/li>\n<li>Domaine des Baumard Savenni\u00e8res Clos du Papillon ($30)<\/li>\n<li>Domaine de Bellivi\u00e8re Jasni\u00e8res Les Rosiers ($32)<\/li>\n<li>Fran\u00e7ois Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil ($32)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pairing wine and cheese is a matter of style.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":5938,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[543],"tags":[572,149],"coauthors":[141],"class_list":["post-1896","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-pairings","tag-cheese-and-drinks-2","tag-wine"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Cheese + Wine: Chenin Blanc - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pairing wine and cheese is a matter of style\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chenin-blanc-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese + Wine: Chenin Blanc\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Pairing wine and cheese is a matter of style\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chenin-blanc-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grantgbradley\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2010-03-03T13:00:36+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2016-04-21T15:10:20+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/chaninblanc_featured.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Tara Q. 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