{"id":20814,"date":"2015-07-28T07:00:35","date_gmt":"2015-07-28T11:00:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=20814"},"modified":"2015-05-21T17:55:28","modified_gmt":"2015-05-21T21:55:28","slug":"will-real-emmentaler-please-stand","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/will-real-emmentaler-please-stand\/","title":{"rendered":"Will the Real Emmentaler Please Stand Up?"},"content":{"rendered":"

In the verdant hills of the Swiss Emmental region, more than 3,000 feet above sea level, Bernhard Meier and his wife, Marlies Zaugg, are Emmentaler AOP<\/a> cheesemakers in the oldworld tradition at the K\u00e4serei H\u00fcpfenboden. In this area, husband-and-wife teams usually operate these small k\u00e4sereien, or cheese dairies, sharing the daily work and routine while living adjacent to or upstairs from the facilities.<\/p>\n

Meier and Zaugg are unusual since both are trained cheesemakers; normally just one person in the couple has formal training. They produce two wheels of wheels of Emmentaler every day, plus a few other cheeses and butter, which they sell locally. The 12 farmers who deliver milk twice daily to K\u00e4serei H\u00fcpfenboden own the dairy and hire Meier and Zaugg to produce cheese, which is typical. After initial aging, cheeses are transported to the underground caves of Gourmino, a company just four miles north that ages wheels for up to 24 months, then negotiates sales and exports throughout Europe and beyond. This interdependence\u2014among farmer, cheesemaker, and affineur\u2014has been cultivated for centuries, and the union provides support and livelihood for all parties.<\/p>\n

The Emme river valley\u2014home to K\u00e4serei H\u00fcpfenboden\u2014is the birthplace of Emmentaler, as the name itself states. Thal is German for valley, but when spelling reform in 1902 simplified the written word to align with phonetics, thal became tal (just as thaler, which means \u201cfrom the valley,\u201d became taler). This mountainous region of west central Switzerland is in the Germanspeaking part of the country, though most inhabitants also speak French.<\/p>\n

Dairy farming remains this region\u2019s dominant economy. The Appellation d\u2019Origine Prot\u00e9g\u00e9e<\/em> (AOP, previously known as AOC) for Emmentaler was set in 2000, establishing intense guidelines to ensure that Emmentaler AOP may only come from this region, in perpetuity. Without a doubt, original Emmentaler cheese is indeed Swiss. But what is it, exactly? And why are other cheeses with big holes made elsewhere in the world also called Emmentaler?<\/p>\n

\"Beeler<\/a>

Beeler Emmentaler<\/p><\/div>\n

The answer is timely, as the European cheese union is lobbying aggressively to protect coveted cheese names with historic and location-based origins, such as France\u2019s Brie and Camembert, England\u2019s Stilton and cheddar, and Italy\u2019s Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Romano. A region\u2019s topography\u2014including water, soil, landforms, and more\u2014naturally dictate the style of cheese produced there, and it\u2019s no different with Emmentaler.<\/p>\n

But the recipe for traditional Emmentaler is copied widely around the globe\u2014the iconic holes, or \u201ceyes,\u201d dotting the cheese\u2019s paste are recognizable from afar. Imitation may be the sincerest form of flattery but what\u2019s referred to ubiquitously as \u201cSwiss cheese\u201d is invariably based on the original Emmentaler AOP. Cheeses produced similarly to Emmentaler include protected curds such as Germany\u2019s Allgauer Emmentaler and France\u2019s Emmental de Savoie and Emmental fran\u00e7ais est-central; plus Norway\u2019s Jarlsberg, Holland\u2019s Maasdam, and any other holey cheese, including those created in the US and sliced in delis across the country. All are well-made, popular cheeses in their own right . . . but they\u2019re not Swiss Emmentaler AOP. This is the distinction that\u2019s near and dear to those proudly making this quintessential Swiss cheese as well as to those looking for the nutty, buttery, real deal.<\/p>\n

Rules governing Emmentaler AOP production are strict. Milk is most important: cows must feed only on grass (or hay in winter) from pastures within designated areas of production. Each day, farmers deliver this unpasteurized milk to the k\u00e4sereien, where it is heated gently in a copper-lined vat. A mix of traditional, proprietary cultures (mainly Streptococcus thermophilus<\/em>, Lactobacillus bulgaricus<\/em>, and Propionibacterium freudenreichii<\/em>, all provided by a government-run lab) is added to the vat. The latter culture, commonly known as proprionic bacteria, feeds on lactic acid during aging to produce carbon dioxide, which in turn creates cherry- to walnutsized holes throughout the paste of the cheese. No preservatives or GMO ingredients are allowed at any stage of production.<\/p>\n

The wheels at K\u00e4serei H\u00fcpfenboden, however, are crafted a little differently. A small amount of whey\u2014approximately half a cup\u2014is removed from the vat during cheesemaking, incubated 48 hours, and used as the sole acidification for a new batch of Emmentaler (acting very much like the \u201cmother\u201d culture in sourdough bread). These cheeses bear a special label and are recognized by Slow Food as its Presidio\u2019s Traditional Emmentaler, produced just as it has been for centuries.<\/p>\n

\"Emmi<\/a>

Emmi Roth Emmentaler<\/p><\/div>\n

The creation of Emmentaler AOP\u2014from curd-cutting and \u201ccooking\u201d to hooping and brining\u2014can be emulated (and it is), but results won\u2019t be the same, as milk and cultures used in the production of Emmentaler are unique to the region. Each k\u00e4serei\u2019s wheels are labeled accordingly so even the consumer can pinpoint its origin, down to the dairy and make date. Most traditional dairies turn out four to eight wheels per day, each three-anda- half feet wide by ten inches high and weighing over 200 pounds. These are obviously not the simplest cheeses to heft, but they do age and travel well, which was the original intention.<\/p>\n

Cooking the curd during production creates a harder, denser cheese suited for aging; rural mountain dwellers required long-lasting foods. Made at high altitudes in summertime, where cows feed on lush Alpine grasses and flowers, Emmentaler has been an important historical food source. After railroads were built in the mid-1800s, grains and other provisions were sourced easily and dairies in the low-lying Emme valley were able to churn out cheese year-round. Cheese has been a staple since the Middle Ages, though the number of Emmentaler makers has dropped markedly in the last century\u2014from over 900 in the 1930s to 140 today. Still, Emmentaler production has increased, due to technological advances and the expansion of larger manufacturers as smaller k\u00e4sereien shutter.<\/p>\n

If you want to try Emmentaler AOP, your local cheese counter is the crucial link. Wheels\u2014labeled with the symbol of the Switzerland Emmentaler Consortium, which features the iconic red cross of the Swiss flag\u2014must be aged at least four months to meet AOP standards, but they may be aged up to 18 months. (Your monger may even have the Slow Food cheese from the K\u00e4serei H\u00fcpfenboden for your picnic basket or fondue pot.) The older the wheel, the denser and deeper the flavor\u2014all the better to savor with an exceptional bottle of wine.<\/p>\n

\"Bernhard<\/a>

Bernhard MittGotthelf of Gourmino<\/p><\/div>\n

Finding Emmentaler AOP in the US<\/h3>\n

Emmi<\/a> is the largest affineur and exporter of Emmentaler AOP. Two are available in the US: a younger version, typically aged four months, with a softer, milder texture and taste; and wheels aged 12 months in Kaltbach caves halfway between Bern and Zurich (the latter are easily recognized by their black rinds, produced by the cave\u2019s flora).<\/p>\n

With two large cellars in Langnau, Gourmino<\/a> is the last remaining affineur in the Emmental region. Its Emmentaler is available in the following ages: four to six months (mild); 12 months (surchoix); and 18 months (reserve); plus specially labeled Slow Food Emmentaler, aged 14 months.<\/p>\n

Aged 16 to 18 months, S\u00e9lection Rolf Beeler Emmentaler comes to America in collaboration with Caroline Hostettler\u2019s Quality Cheese<\/a> of Fort Myers, Fla. It\u2019s dense and intense, with a dark-brown rind and an ivory-colored interior yielding rich aromas and flavors.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Without a doubt, original Emmentaler cheese is indeed Swiss. But what is it, exactly? And why are other cheeses with big holes made elsewhere in the world also called Emmentaler?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":20816,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"coauthors":[83],"class_list":["post-20814","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWill the Real Emmentaler Please Stand Up? - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Without a doubt, original Emmentaler cheese is indeed Swiss. But what is it, exactly? 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