{"id":25259,"date":"2016-01-05T11:30:09","date_gmt":"2016-01-05T16:30:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=25259"},"modified":"2016-01-05T11:30:09","modified_gmt":"2016-01-05T16:30:09","slug":"dairy-across-disciplines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/dairy-across-disciplines\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese IQ: Dairy Across Disciplines"},"content":{"rendered":"

It was Picasso who said, \u201cLearn the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist.\u201d That\u2019s precisely how Soyoung Scanlan makes cheese at her Andante Dairy<\/a> in Petaluma, Calif.<\/p>\n

The dairy sits on a hilltop west of town, surrounded by the 212-acre Volpi Ranch. Here, goat\u2019s milk from 2,000 does is piped directly from milking machines into the cheesemaking building. Scanlan also uses Jersey cow\u2019s milk, plus milk from a nearby herd of water buffalo when available. In producing cheeses for retail sale, Scanlan strives for consistency. By contrast, when experimenting with specialty small-batch cheeses, often bound for big-name clients and restaurateurs, she artfully steps beyond the rules to create something truly original.<\/p>\n

Scanlan studied microbiology and food science in college in Korea, and this training no doubt influences her precise commercial cheesemaking process. \u201cI use two or three microbial cultures, and I vary ratios depending on the season,\u201d she says. \u201cThe flavor of milk changes with the seasons, so the flavor of my cheeses would change, too, if I used the same ratio all year.\u201d<\/p>\n

A culture of Lactobacillus acidophilus<\/i> produces a sharper acid profile while a culture of Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. cremoris<\/i> yields more buttery flavors, Scanlan says. And there are many species of Lactococcus<\/i> bacteria that yield the consistent flavors she craves.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I change the ratio of the cultures, how I age the cheese changes,\u201d Scanlan says. \u201cFor instance, if I use more Leuconostoc<\/i>, the cheese will have a creamier texture, become softer, dry more slowly, and need a very gentle cure.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Andante goat barn in Petaluma, Calif.
Photo Credit: Andante Dairy<\/em><\/small><\/p><\/div>\n

But Scanlan—a classical piano player—also has a creative streak, reflected in the name of her business. Andante, a musical tempo akin to a leisurely walk, represents her philosophy of living and working with composure. So while her retail cheeses—with harmonious names like Impromptu, Pianoforte, Acapella, Nocturne, and Picolo—come out intentionally uniform, many of the 500 to 700 cheeses her small team produces weekly are more innovative and customized for her customers. <\/p>\n

The Thomas Keller Restaurant Group constitutes 40 percent of Scanlan\u2019s business. \u201cWe have flavor profiles for the group\u2019s restaurants in Napa Valley and New York City, and the cheeses I make for each restaurant are different,\u201d Scanlan says. \u201cI\u2019m known for making cheeses for specific wines.\u201d<\/p>\n

She once interviewed the maker of a 1984 Domaine de la Roman\u00e9e-Conti to create a cheese that would emphasize the French wine\u2019s delicacy. \u201cWhen an older wine\u2019s texture is delicate, cow\u2019s milk cheese can be a bit heavy,\u201d Scanlan says, \u201cso I used goat\u2019s milk to make something runny, with minerality, but not too acidic.\u201d<\/p>\n

Scanlan\u2019s spontaneity and imagination flourish during the aging process. \u201cAging is like organic farming,\u201d she says. \u201cConventional farmers want to control everything and follow a set of rules. That may be the easiest way to farm, but it\u2019s not the best. An organic farmer prepares the land properly—like making fresh cheese—but the growing season is like the cheese aging.\u201d The organic farmer watches her crops closely and seeks to understand the environment\u2019s impact, then follows nature\u2019s lead, she adds.<\/p>\n

\"Figaro,<\/a>

Figaro<\/a>, a seasonal cow-and-goat’s milk cheese wrapped in fig leaves.<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s just like making cheese. \u201cYou have to allow nature to have a hand in it,\u201d Scanlan says. \u201cThat means allowing temperature and humidity to have some natural variance . . . Over the years, I found out there\u2019s a limit to using scientific knowledge to make cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

Instead, she goes by feeling and intuition—throwing open a window here to air out a stuffy aging room, aging Camembert next to a different kind of cheese there. When turning cheeses, she feels each wheel and wedge to assess its progress, switching their positions on racks as needed.<\/p>\n

\u201c[Scanlan] achieves a depth of flavor and texture that I don’t find in any other soft-ripened cheese,\u201d says John Ash, an award-winning chef and cookbook author based in California. \u201cEach of her cheeses is uniquely different.\u201d <\/p>\n

Scanlan\u2019s advice to other cheesemakers? \u201cLook at small cheeses as individuals,\u201d she says. \u201cIf a customer buys just one cheese, it represents our entire work. I have to pay attention to every detail.\u201d That she does—day in and day out, seven days a week.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Soyoung Scanlan demonstrates that making great cheese is both a science and an art<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":25263,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"coauthors":[743],"class_list":["post-25259","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCheese IQ: Dairy Across Disciplines - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/dairy-across-disciplines\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese IQ: Dairy Across Disciplines\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Soyoung Scanlan demonstrates that making great cheese is both a science and an art\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/dairy-across-disciplines\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grantgbradley\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-01-05T16:30:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/01\/SoyoungScanlan_ftr.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Jeff Cox\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Jeff Cox\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/dairy-across-disciplines\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/dairy-across-disciplines\/\",\"name\":\"Cheese IQ: Dairy Across Disciplines - 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