{"id":25984,"date":"2009-12-20T12:25:59","date_gmt":"2009-12-20T17:25:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=25984"},"modified":"2023-02-26T10:27:02","modified_gmt":"2023-02-26T15:27:02","slug":"chefs-dish-blackberry-farm","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-blackberry-farm\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef’s Dish: All for One at Blackberry Farm"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"
Snow falling at Blackberry Farm.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The sun rises like a cheesecloth-cloaked fireball over the misty hickory-and-pine forest surrounding Blackberry Farm<\/a> in the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee. By late morning, this characteristic fog will burn off, leaving the 4,200-acre sheep dairy and guest retreat, with its creamery and two acclaimed restaurants, swathed in sultry humidity and the trill of cicadas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While it didn\u2019t start out that way, cheese has come to embody the vitality of this unique farm. It represents not only the fertile land but also what can be achieved when inspired individuals come together to pursue a common goal\u2014what resident chef de cuisine Adam Cooke, at The Barn restaurant, calls \u201ca shared desire to work, cook, craft, and be around food.\u201d Cooke, along with chef de cuisine Joseph Lenn and corporate chef Josh Feathers, his colleagues at Blackberry\u2019s other restaurant, the Main House, work closely with cheesemaker Adam Spannaus to create a refined version of Great Smoky Mountains cuisine, which is dictated by the seasonal variations in their sheep\u2019s milk production. In addition to the chefs and Spannaus\u2014himself a former chef\u2014the food and farm team consists of sommeliers, a master gardener, shepherds, a forager, a preservationist, a beekeeper, a butcher, and a bread baker. As an ensemble, they collaborate to showcase Blackberry\u2019s sustainably raised products, including milk, meat, tree crops, heirloom vegetables, and honey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While the farm\u2019s five different cheeses and sheep\u2019s milk are excellent in their own right, the chefs have made them a fundamental part of Blackberry\u2019s cuisine. Breakfast and lunch at the Main House mean homey treats such as panna cotta with fresh peaches, cornmeal pudding with maple cream cheese, charcoal-grilled lamb on piadina (Italian flatbread) with cucumber yogurt, and shaved summer vegetables topped with clumps of fresh, buttery cheese curds. The Barn, housed in a lofty, spectacularly restored 1700s farm structure, opened in 2007 with the now 29-year-old Cooke at the helm. Like Spannaus, he excels at transforming raw ingredients into a superlative end product, one that the national press has hailed for its melding of simple, rustic, local ingredients with classical technique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Chef<\/a>
Chef de cuisine Adam Cooke in the kitchen<\/em><\/center>\n\n\n\n

Cooke is no stranger to dairy animals either. The son of self-described \u201chippies,\u201d he grew up on a small farm in the Bitterroot Mountains of western Montana, raising chickens, milking cows, and making cheese and yogurt. Initially self-taught, he decided to pursue a formal education at the New England Culinary Institute when he was 22. He arrived at Blackberry in 2005, working under former executive chef John Fleer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cooke says he finds inspiration in the region\u2019s little-known culinary heritage and use of foraged foods. \u201cIt\u2019s a lesser-known facet of Southern cuisine,\u201d he explains. \u201cThe food is very vegetable based, while meat (often in cured form) is more of a garnish.\u201d His interpretation combines the flavors of perfectly ripe fruit, the crisp snap of just-harvested produce, the smoky perfume of a neighbor\u2019s country ham, or the tang of vegetable pickles put up by food preservationist Maggie Davidson. At Blackberry, his philosophy is simple: try to use what exists on the farm. Cheese and milk are key components of his daily menus. \u201cSheep\u2019s milk isn\u2019t assertive, and it elevates the other ingredients and lets them shine. . . . Our menus grow out of what\u2019s in season and the different stages of the sheep\u2019s lactation. I love the milk in risotto, yogurt-based chilled soups, salad dressings, or semifreddo.\u201d In early spring, Cooke continues, \u201cI might do a sheep\u2019s milk gnocchi with the fresh curds, while later in the summer or early fall, I\u2019ll use the harder cheeses in things like an oven-roasted tomato tart with escargot.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"WNT09_BlackberryFarm_2\"<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

The farm was started in 1940 by the Lasier family, but it was not until 1976, when restaurateurs Kreis and Sandy Beall bought Blackberry, that the place became a small country inn. Their son Sam, now 33, was born in the main house, which is now the restaurant of the same name.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since 2001, Sam Beall has been the proprietor of Blackberry, as well as the innovator behind its wine and culinary education programs, which feature world-renowned chefs and winemakers. But he is quick to point out that his entire staff makes the farm a special destination. The cheesemaking, he adds, is an expression of the place: \u201cWe want our guests to experience the connection of seeing the sheep, helping with milking and cheesemaking, and then eating it\u2014all in the same day.\u201d Beall says Blackberry\u2019s cheese program is so popular that they now offer several programs for guests (as well as for the general public) in the cooking school located within The Barn. Cooke does classes on cheese-driven seasonal menus, while Spannaus teaches a Cheesemaker 101 class and conducts farm and creamery tours, cave tours, and cheese tastings. He also directs the \u201cA Day in the Life of a Cheesemaker\u201d program, in which visitors can milk sheep and assist him as he works.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Soft-spoken and methodical, the bespectacled cheesemaker has an impressive culinary re\u0301sume\u0301 that includes a post as sous chef at Manhattan\u2019s Aureole, as well as at the late 71 Clinton. He began working in kitchens while obtaining a music degree but fell in love with food, which led him to pursue a second degree at the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago. Though he sourced cheese for his sous chef positions, Spannaus\u2019s only formal cheesemaking experience was at Cato Corner, a Connecticut cow dairy where he worked in between gigs as a weekend private chef. He also worked briefly at Brooklyn\u2019s well-regarded Bedford Cheese Shop<\/a>. What led him away from the high-stress, fast-paced, 80-hour weeks in the kitchen was a desire to \u201cslow down, focus on technique, and create a consistently excellent product.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"WNT09_BlackberryFarm_3\"<\/a>
Cheesemaker Adam Spannaus tests his aged sheep’s milk cheese<\/em><\/center>\n\n\n\n

That desire appears to be coming to fruition. Just this past summer, Spannaus\u2019s signature cheese, Blackberry Farm\u2019s Singing Brook\u2014an unpasteurized, boule-shaped pecorino\u2014won third place in the aged sheep\u2019s milk category at the American Cheese Society\u2019s Annual Conference and Competition. The accolade is especially remarkable given that Spannaus has only been at Blackberry since January 2009, and that this is his first time as a solo cheesemaker. \u201cAdam is brilliant,\u201d says Cooke. \u201cSince he took over, the cheese program has grown by leaps and bounds. I think what he does here will be heavily influential on the regional cuisine.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One can easily imagine Spannaus saying the same thing about Cooke\u2019s work. Given their combined talents and the resources at the farm, it\u2019s no surprise that Blackberry has garnered a reputation far beyond its Great Smoky Mountain borders. As Beall proudly says of his team, \u201cIt\u2019s so much better to invest [your energies] in good, honest, passionate people. Give them the tools to do their jobs, and let them run with it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n

Recipes:<\/h2>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
\n
\"Baked<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Baked Singing Brook Cheese and Macaroni<\/a><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
An indulgently rich take on a much-loved Southern classic<\/em><\/div>\n\n\n
\n
\"The<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Parsley Root Soup with Singing Brook Cheese Toast and Escargots<\/a><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Fresh parsley root is enriched with Singing Brook cheese and served with garlicky escargot-topped toast<\/em><\/div>\n\n\n
\n
\"Salad<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Salad Greens with Roasted Pears, Toasted Cornbread Croutons, and Violet Cheese Dressing<\/a><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Blackberry Farm pairs fluffy salad greens with roasted pears and creamy violet cheese for an unforgettable salad<\/em><\/div>\n\n\n
\n
\"Wood<\/a><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Wood-Roasted New Crop Potatoes with Trefoil Cheese and Black Truffle Oil<\/a><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Nothing improves roasted new potatoes like a combination of rich tangy cheese and pungent black truffles<\/em><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Photographed by Heather Anne Thomas<\/em><\/small><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the Great Smoky Mountains, the talented crew of Blackberry Farm redefines Tennessee taste.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":26003,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[3386,31],"tags":[34109,34110,7001,20773,979,34029,2360,24585,34108,34106,34107],"coauthors":[191],"class_list":["post-25984","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chefs","category-recipes","tag-adam-cooke","tag-adam-spannaus","tag-blackberry-farm","tag-cheesy-recipes","tag-chefs","tag-chefs-dish-2","tag-macaroni-and-cheese","tag-sam-beall","tag-singing-brook-cheese","tag-trefoil-cheese","tag-violet-cheese"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nChef's Dish: All for One at Blackberry Farm - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-blackberry-farm\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chef's Dish: All for One at Blackberry Farm\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the Great Smoky Mountains, the talented crew of Blackberry Farm redefines Tennessee taste.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-blackberry-farm\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grantgbradley\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2009-12-20T17:25:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-02-26T15:27:02+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/WNT09_BlackberryFarm_ftr.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Laurel Miller\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Laurel Miller\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-blackberry-farm\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chefs-dish-blackberry-farm\/\",\"name\":\"Chef's Dish: All for One at Blackberry Farm - 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