{"id":27526,"date":"2016-06-17T11:30:29","date_gmt":"2016-06-17T15:30:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=27526"},"modified":"2021-08-26T12:39:17","modified_gmt":"2021-08-26T16:39:17","slug":"many-fold-farm-cheesemaker","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/many-fold-farm-cheesemaker\/","title":{"rendered":"A New Breed: Sheep’s Milk Wheels in the South"},"content":{"rendered":"

Standing in the middle of Many Fold Farm<\/a>\u2019s sunny 280 acres, it\u2019s hard to believe Atlanta\u2019s metro are of nearly six million people is just a short commute away\u2014and that\u2019s the way the residents of Chattahoochee Hills, Ga., like it. Thanks to the fledgling city\u2019s strict zoning laws, citizens can have their sushi and eat it, too, enjoying the amenities of the state\u2019s nearby capital with no fear of urban sprawl. It is, more or less, a first-generation farmer\u2019s utopia.<\/p>\n

Back to the Land<\/h3>\n

High school sweethearts and Atlanta natives Rebecca and Ross Williams didn\u2019t set out to be Southern farmers. In fact, they headed to New York, where Rebecca majored in English at Sarah Lawrence College and Ross studied city planning at New York University. But after just three semesters, Ross decided to take some time off.<\/p>\n

In pursuit of \u201ca different academic experience,\u201d he later landed in Asheville, N.C., enrolling at Warren Wilson College. The school, part of the Work Colleges Consortium, requires students to hold an on-campus job to graduate. Some of the most sought-after positions are at Warren Wilson\u2019s 275-acre farm, and Ross wanted in\u2014but with no agricultural experience, he had to get creative to secure a spot. During his interview, he talked up his web skills. Turns out, that\u2019s exactly what they needed.<\/p>\n

After graduation Ross moved to central Massachusetts for a short stint at Heifer International\u2019s Overlook Farm<\/a>. There, he gained invaluable livestock experience working with all kinds of animals\u2014from heritage-breed cows to water buffalo<\/a> to dzos<\/em>, a cow-yak crossbreed. But home called, so Ross and Rebecca ventured back below the Mason-Dixon line, got married, and subsequently took internships together at Hickory Nut Gap Farm<\/a> in Fairview, N.C. It was a trying experience, the couple says, but a worthwhile one.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe learned from them learning,\u201d Ross says. Their time at Hickory Nut Gap, coupled with the modern back-to-the-land movement, inspired them to strike out on their own. Agrarian genes didn\u2019t hurt, either. \u201cMy mom\u2019s grandparents had a farm,\u201d says Ross. \u201cThat probably subconsciously influenced me to think: Yeah, I could do that.\u201d So they began looking for acreage.<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_ManyFoldFarm_2\"<\/p>\n

Owners Ross and Rebecca Williams<\/em><\/div>\n

Forging New Traditions<\/h3>\n

You\u2019d be hard-pressed to find Chattahoochee Hills on a map. That\u2019s because the hamlet has only existed for eight years, established when residents voted to incorporate parts of Fulton County as a separate municipality in 2007.<\/p>\n

It was a direct response to Atlanta\u2019s ferocious urban sprawl\u2014by becoming an independent city, locals could craft rigorous zoning laws designed to preserve the neighborhood\u2019s rural feel. These regulations guarantee that strips malls, McDonald\u2019s, Walmart, and other suburban staples won\u2019t gobble up pasture or farmland.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Rebecca

Rebecca Williams ladles curds into molds.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

For Rebecca and Ross, this opportunity was too good to pass up. \u201cA farm is only as good as the community it\u2019s in,\u201d says Rebecca. \u201cWe\u2019ve worked on farms that were so [rural and] isolating\u2014that\u2019s what scared us, being far away from people.\u201d In autumn of 2009, the couple founded Many Fold Farm in Chattahoochee Hills. A few months and Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese workshops later, the Williamses purchased a small starter flock of sheep from Everona Dairy<\/a>\u2019s Pat Elliot.<\/p>\n

Why sheep? \u201cTheir milk is rad for making cheese,\u201d Rebecca says. \u201cSheep\u2019s milk cheese is the best way to turn grass into money \u2026 green to green.\u201d Ewe\u2019s milk does have more solids than cow\u2019s or goat\u2019s milk\u2014meaning more of it can be used to make cheese\u2014but the animals can be fussy and harder to milk. Considering there\u2019s also a lack of genetics and resources about domestic sheep dairying, it can be a tough go in the United States. But ignorance is bliss, and the couple established Many Fold\u2019s creamery in June 2012.<\/p>\n

The farm\u2019s original cheeses are still some of their most popular: Condor\u2019s Ruin<\/a>, a minerally ash-ripened pyramid, and Garretts Ferry, a buttery crottin-style. Rebecca, who helms the cheesemaking operation, started with lactic-set bloomy-rind<\/a> cheeses for practical reasons: \u201c[They are] flexible in their make process. I can do marketing or check e-mails while acidification happens \u2026 they can get made and go out [for sale] really quickly,\u201d she explains. They\u2019re also a gateway to Many Fold\u2019s other offerings, including Brebis, a spreadable fresh cheese, and Rivertown, a hazelnutty Camembert<\/a>-style, plus two other offerings in the works: a tomme<\/a> and a blue<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Though area cheesemaking traditions color many a maker\u2019s wares, they were not something Rebecca considered when developing Many Fold\u2019s repertoire. That\u2019s because those customs don\u2019t exist\u2014cotton and tobacco rule the South\u2019s agricultural history, not curds. She also makes the case, however, that dairy and Southern cuisine (\u201cthe only true American food culture,\u201d Rebecca insists) are made for each other, despite their lack of history. Think about it: buttery biscuits, whey-brined barbecue pork, and buttermilk-fried chicken\u2014it\u2019s not a far stretch. And even though sheep don\u2019t have an established place in Southern culture either, dairying in Georgia has some benefits, including year-round pasturing abilities and the opportunity to milk outdoors. \u201cThere\u2019s nothing like sunshine and fresh air to keep things clean,\u201d says Rebecca.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/p>\n

A batch of still-in-development blue cheese ages on wooden boards.<\/em><\/div>\n

Making It Work<\/h3>\n

But that same sunshine can also be a curse, as the muggy climate allows harmful critters to flourish. During the farm\u2019s first year, Rebecca and Ross lost half their herd due to parasites and the animals\u2019 shock at being transferred to new pasture. \u201cIf we knew how hard it was going to be, I don\u2019t think we would have done it,\u201d Rebecca says.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Mossad,

Mossad, an Awassi-cross ram, wears a bell so farmhands can hear him approaching.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Today, they are taking steps to leave those painful memories in the rearview mirror. Most dairy sheep in America have been bred to withstand harsh winters and mild summers, so Rebecca and Ross are crossing their 200-strong flock with more heat-tolerant animals, such as Awassis<\/a>, which hail from the Middle East. \u201cYou gain some hardiness but lose some milk quality,\u201d says Rebecca. Ross is also exploring importing sheep genetics in the future to help expedite the creation of a South-proof sheep breed.<\/p>\n

In the meantime, though, the couple is supporting their existing flock as much as possible\u2014even though that likely means holding off on organic certification. \u201cSheep are not bred for the South, and there are many stressors [for them] in this environment,\u201d Rebecca says. \u201cNot supporting their immune systems with the appropriate dewormers? \u2026 It\u2019s inhumane. We have to give them that crutch while we are developing the breed.\u201d<\/p>\n

The couple is also reducing parasites in their pastures by employing the \u201cstacking\u201d method. On a given patch of land, the sheep graze first for 24 hours, four Jersey cows<\/a> come in two days later, and the chickens (between seven hundred and a thousand at a time) forage last. Here\u2019s how it works: Pests dropped by sheep hatch larvae in the grass that the cows then eat\u2014but since the bugs are only harmful to ovines, they die off in the cows\u2019 digestive tract. Likewise, cow parasites cannot survive in chickens, and fowl droppings fertilize the soil to boot.<\/p>\n

Even though grass may grow year-round at Many Fold, Ross and Rebecca do supplement with hay and a low-grain feed in winter to give the meadows a chance to grow back full and lush. \u201cAt the end of the day, it\u2019s all about soil building,\u201d Rebecca explains. Many other aspects of farm life are also firmly regimented by the seasons, including reproduction: Ewes are bred in early fall and give birth in early spring, aided by farm apprentices and volunteers.<\/p>\n

\"Ewes<\/p>\n

Ewes enjoy a snack while being milked in the outdoor parlor.<\/em><\/div>\n

Doing the Most Good<\/h3>\n

It clearly takes a community to help build and run the small business\u2014so the Williamses want to give back through educational opportunities. Currently, Many Fold leads farm tours for visitors, local schools (including a Chattahoochee Hills charter school Rebecca helped found<\/a>), and industry professionals. They\u2019re also strengthening the farm\u2019s relationship with the restaurant world by hiring kitchen veterans as cheesemakers and offering the creamery\u2019s Jersey cultured butter<\/a> exclusively to eateries. In the future they plan to launch a more formal program that shows chefs how to make cheese, helping them understand the craft and learn how to use the products on their menus.<\/p>\n

Despite all this forward momentum, last year was another tough one for Many Fold, as some breeding missteps resulted in a milk shortage. But their big dreams and work ethic keep them going, as do the awards they won at the 2015 American Cheese Society Judging & Competition. Director of operations and on-site monger Tim Gaddis entered their entire lineup into the contest, and Many Fold swept all three sheep\u2019s milk categories, with four different cheeses netting ribbons. Talk about positive feedback. Says Rebecca of the wins: \u201cThat\u2019s a vote of confidence from your peers. That says, you\u2019re doing a good job\u2014keep going.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Many<\/p>\n

Many Fold’s sheep and cows graze on Chattahoochee pasture.<\/em><\/div>\n

Photographed by Ali Harper<\/a><\/em><\/small><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rebecca and Ross Williams of Many Fold Farm are starting from scratch and leading the way<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":27545,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[],"coauthors":[70],"class_list":["post-27526","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA New Breed: Sheep's Milk Wheels in the South<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/many-fold-farm-cheesemaker\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta 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