{"id":27528,"date":"2016-06-16T10:22:58","date_gmt":"2016-06-16T14:22:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=27528"},"modified":"2021-08-26T12:40:13","modified_gmt":"2021-08-26T16:40:13","slug":"rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery\/","title":{"rendered":"Work of Art: Rosa Maria Puts Nebraska on the Map"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u201cIt was love at first sight\u2014I\u2019d never seen a cheese like that before,\u201d Philadelphia artist Mike Geno says. He\u2019s referring to Rosa Maria, the Spanish-style aged goat cheese from Dutch Girl Creamery<\/a> that stopped him in his tracks at the 2014 American Cheese Society conference in Sacramento, Calif. With a gorgeously mottled exterior reminiscent of a sea urchin shell, \u201cit\u2019s a classic beauty,\u201d says Geno, who has painted<\/a> more than 250 cheeses.<\/p>\n

He asked cheesemaker Charuth Van Beuzekom to ship him a wheel. Only after completing the portrait did Geno, who was attempting to paint one cheese from every US state, realize that award-winning Rosa Maria put Nebraska on his map, much like Van Beuzekom and her Dutch Girl Creamery are helping to put the Plains state on the country\u2019s cheesemaking radar.<\/p>\n

Sowing Seeds<\/h3>\n

But there\u2019s more to Rosa Maria than good looks. The story of the salt-brined stunner begins across the ocean. Though Van Beuzekom was born in Rosas, Spain, she only lived there a year before moving to Holland. She remembers visiting her grandfather\u2019s idyllic house in Reeuwijk, where they\u2019d pick vegetables and smoke fish, then stop by neighboring farms to select eggs and dairy for the week.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Dutch

Dutch Girl Creamery’s Charuth Van Beuzekom standing in the pasture with her Welsh corgi, Penny.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cI loved the smell of cheese aging on wooden shelves and tasting every batch,\u201d Van Beuzekom says. \u201cAt age 5, my first real conviction was that I would be a farmer when I grew up.\u201d<\/p>\n

When she was 6 years old, Van Beuzekom\u2019s family moved to the US, settling in Mendocino, Calif. At age 9, she received her first goat\u2014a Toggenburg named Pennyroyal, a present from her mom\u2014and started making fresh cheeses studded with herbs from the milk. Later, Van Beuzekom headed to the University of California, Santa Cruz, and while earning a biology degree she met her future husband, Kevin Loth, who was pursuing agroecology and environmental studies. Shortly after graduation, the pair decided to start a family and a farm. In 1996 they purchased 34 acres just outside of Lincoln city limits in Nebraska, Loth\u2019s home state, and began growing organic produce. Shadow Brook Farm<\/a> was born.<\/p>\n

To add value to their business and fulfill Van Beuzekom\u2019s livestock dreams, they bought a small goatherd in 2006 and founded Dutch Girl Creamery. Van Beuzekom partnered with another up-and-coming local cheesemaker\u2014Krista Dittman of Branched Oak Farm<\/a> in Raymond, Neb.\u2014and the two women secured grants to take classes and visit 27 cheesemakers in five states and four countries.<\/p>\n

This led them to the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture<\/a> conference, where Van Beuzekom met star New York monger Anne Saxelby<\/a>, who mentioned a scarcity in the cheese market: hard, aged goat cheese. That comment, along with Van Beuzekom\u2019s desire to create a goat\u2019s milk riff on Manchego<\/a>, inspired Rosa Maria. \u201cI wanted to [make] something like a pecorino<\/a>: a hard, grating-style<\/a> cheese but Spanish-y,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Centerfold_RosaMaria_4\"<\/p>\n

Goats going out to pasture after the morning milking.<\/em><\/div>\n

Crafting in Color<\/h3>\n

This year, Dutch Girl Creamery will milk 130 Alpine<\/a> and Saanen<\/a> goats (their 150-strong herd includes a Nubian buck that Van Beuzekom added to the mix two years ago to boost butterfat). The animals graze rotationally on alfalfa fields bursting with orchard grass, brome, chicory, and clover.<\/p>\n

\u201cChicory blooms blue, and with the purple of the alfalfa there are times when our pastures are just aglow with blue and purple flowers,\u201d she says. \u201cI like to think it\u2019s affecting the flavor of our cheese because it smells so beautiful out there.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Charuth

Charuth Van Beuzekom cuts the curds for Rosa Maria (the colorful forms used to make the cheese are seen in the background).<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The creamery produces 20,000 pounds of cheese annually and about 20 percent of that is Rosa Maria, made from pasteurized spring and fall milk, which is rich in fat and solids. This seasonal milk, plus a blend of thermophilic and mesophilic cultures\u2014formulated by Van Beuzekom with assistance from Margaret Peters-Morris of Glengarry Fine Cheese<\/a>\u2014help produce the desired texture: A paste that may be grated but that\u2019s supple enough to eat solo.<\/p>\n

Curds are heated, stirred, and pressed into rainbow-bright forms\u2014gifts from famed British cheesemaker Mary Holbrook, whom Van Beuzekom met during a stint working at Neal\u2019s Yard Dairy<\/a> during the 2010 holiday season. \u201cIt\u2019s really fun when you see them all stacked up\u2014these vintage vegetable colanders in great \u201960s colors,\u201d says Abigael Birrell, who helped Van Beuzekom make cheese in 2014 and 2015 and now helms the fledgling Hub Cafe<\/a> in Lincoln. \u201cIt\u2019s a much more colorful process than you often get in a sterile cheese room.\u201d<\/p>\n

The cheeses are lifted out of the vat and set aside to rest for an hour before a single flip. Rounds are brined 18 to 24 hours, dried on wooden boards for a couple of days, and transferred to an aging cave where they are dry-brushed and flipped occasionally for at least four months (though often longer).<\/p>\n

The resulting four-pound cheeses are floral and earthy with tangy notes, encased in dimpled, gray-brown natural rinds. Paul Kulik, chef and owner of Le Bouillon<\/a> and executive chef of the Boiler Room<\/a>, both in Omaha, calls Rosa Maria the \u201cconsummate goat\u2019s milk grating cheese\u2014it has the perfect seasoning effect.\u201d Shredded over salad or pasta \u201cit\u2019s tart umami,\u201d he says. \u201cYou get little bursts of nuttiness…a bit of mushroom.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bryce Coulton, chef and co-owner of The French Bulldog, also in Omaha, serves Rosa Maria on his house-cured charcuterie platters. [Editors note: the restaurant closed April 16, 2016.<\/em>] If he receives a wheel on Friday or Saturday, it won\u2019t make it to Wednesday. People appreciate it, he says, \u201cnot just because it\u2019s local, but because it\u2019s of exceptional quality. There\u2019s character to it.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Centerfold_RosaMaria_2\"<\/p>\n

Rosa Maria rests on wooden shelves.<\/em><\/div>\n

Spreading the Curd<\/h3>\n

Van Beuzekom started hawking her cheeses (seven styles plus some seasonal offerings) alongside Shadow Brook Farm\u2013grown veggies and flowers at farmers\u2019 markets. Now she\u2019s focused on selling wheels to chefs in Omaha and Lincoln, both fast becoming culinary hotspots. And since Rosa Maria\u2019s first-in-category win at the 2015 American Cheese Society Judging & Competition<\/a>, the cheesemaker has received inquiries from restaurants and shops farther afield. While she\u2019s not seeking national distribution right now\u2014\u201cour production\u2019s not big enough,\u201d she explains\u2014Van Beuzekom hopes to extend Dutch Girl Creamery\u2019s reach in the Midwest.<\/p>\n

In 2013, Van Beuzekom and her husband finished constructing a 1,400-square-foot cheesemaking facility. Partially funded through Kickstarter and attached to the Shadow Brook Farm store, it encompasses three aging spaces. As Van Beuzekom plans to milk 200 goats in 2017 to keep up with demand, the couple may need to build a second barn (they\u2019re in the process of expanding Dutch Girl\u2019s current milking parlor, located in a 100-year-old barn). Another dream is to open a tasting room for visitors to the property.<\/p>\n

All of these improvements, along with courses and continuing education, have helped Van Beuzekom hone her craft over the years. Striking Rosa Maria, now immortalized in a Mike Geno oil painting, was her first cheese and is named after Rosas, Spain (her birthplace), and Maria (her middle name). \u201cThat\u2019s why I was so excited this cheese won [at ACS],\u201d she says. \u201cIn a way, it truly is my baby.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Centerfold_RosaMaria_5\"<\/p>\n

Pairing Suggestions<\/h3>\n

Cheesemaker Charuth Van Beuzekom prefers the cheese sliced, served simply with a tart apple (try McIntosh, Empire, or Pippin varieties) and crusty bread.<\/p>\n

Chef Abigael Birrell of Lincoln\u2019s Hub Cafe, meanwhile, matches Rosa Maria with French sauvignon blanc or Provenc\u0327al-style rose\u0301. She saves younger wheels for cheese plates because there are \u201cso many fresh flavors in it,\u201d Birrell says, but shaves mature rounds into sunchoke salads.<\/p>\n

photographed by Dana Damewood<\/em><\/small><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Charuth Van Beuzekom of Dutch Girl Creamery has been perfecting her masterpiece<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":58,"featured_media":27578,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[],"coauthors":[716],"class_list":["post-27528","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWork of Art: Rosa Maria Puts Nebraska on the Map - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Work of Art: Rosa Maria Puts Nebraska on the Map\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Charuth Van Beuzekom of Dutch Girl Creamery has been perfecting her masterpiece\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/courtney.hollands\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-06-16T14:22:58+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-08-26T16:40:13+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/SUM16_Centerfold_RosaMaria_ftr.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Courtney Hollands\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:title\" content=\"Work of Art: Rosa Maria Puts Nebraska on the Map\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Courtney Hollands\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/rosa-maria-dutch-girl-creamery\/\",\"name\":\"Work of Art: Rosa Maria Puts Nebraska on the Map - 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