{"id":27533,"date":"2016-07-22T17:12:09","date_gmt":"2016-07-22T21:12:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=27533"},"modified":"2022-01-26T13:46:43","modified_gmt":"2022-01-26T18:46:43","slug":"cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Styles: Basque Sheep’s Milk Cheeses"},"content":{"rendered":"
Idiaz\u00e1bal DOP<\/em><\/div>\n

In a village in Basque country\u2014the western region of the Pyrenees Mountains that straddles the France-Spain border\u2014it\u2019s easy to get lost in a maze of white walls and red shutters; houses aren\u2019t numbered. Instead, you have to look for a name. Arrosa<\/i>, Zubialdea<\/i>, Irigoinia<\/i>\u2014the monikers reach back centuries, and all of the locals, even groups of strolling ewes, seem to know them.<\/p>\n

Bestowed upon every house, the names often derive from words for geographic features, such as \u201cedge of the valley,\u201d \u201crocky place,\u201d or \u201cbeside the bridge.\u201d And just as the houses are defined by the landscape, in turn, the dwellings define their inhabitants.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy name is Herve\u0301 Damestoy,\u201d says one farmer, as we lead his sheep out to pasture in the village of Mendionde. \u201cBut for people from my village, my name is Herve\u0301 Menta, because Menta is the name of my house. Here we have a really big attachment to our origins\u2014our houses, especially.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Style_basque_1\"<\/p>\n

The word \u201chouse\u201d doesn\u2019t quite capture the concept, however. In Basque (a native tongue still spoken by about 700,000 people), it\u2019s baserri<\/i>, a three-story, stone-and-oak structure with a gently sloping roof, overlooking arable fields, pastures, and forests. Instead of a living space separated from outlying barns, the entire farm operation is incorporated into one structure: stables and kitchens are on the first floor, bedrooms and living rooms on the second floor, and hay and produce storage in the attic. Historically self-sufficient, baserri-dwellers farmed grain, fruits, and nuts; produced cider, fodder, and flax; and raised cows and sheep. Little wonder that the word is rooted in herri<\/i>, which means \u201cland,\u201d \u201chome,\u201d \u201cpeople,\u201d or \u201csettlement,\u201d depending on the context.<\/p>\n

Naturally, cheesemaking happened in the baserri, too. As a child, Damestoy didn\u2019t eat Idiaza\u0301bal<\/a> or Ossau-Iraty<\/a>; he ate \u201chouse cheese\u201d or \u201cmountain cheese.\u201d Made from whatever milk was available\u2014usually raw sheep\u2019s milk from local breeds such as the productive \u201cred head\u201d Manech; the sturdy, hardy \u201cblack head\u201d Manech; the spiral-horned Basco-Be\u0301arnaise; or the wooly Latxa\u2014these were rustic cylindrical wheels, uncooked, pressed, and aged.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe older it was, the harder it was to cut, the better it was,\u201d Damestoy recalls. \u201cThere was so much taste in that cheese.\u201d In parts of Spanish Basque country, legend has it that cheese aged in houses took on a smoky flavor from the family fire, which is why Idiaza\u0301bal and other wheels are sometimes lightly smoked to this day. Mountain cheeses were made similarly, in high-altitude huts (cayolars<\/i>) during summer.<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Style_basque_2.2\"<\/p>\n

Modern Markets and Fragile Farmsteads<\/h3>\n

Today, though, things have changed; you won\u2019t find anything called \u201chouse cheese\u201d or \u201cmountain cheese\u201d in supermarkets. Farming isn\u2019t easy, and in many parts of Basque country the price of land has risen while milk prices have stagnated. As fewer children become farmers, many families have split up baserris. Larger farms have bought out inactive properties; uninhabited buildings are left to crumble.<\/p>\n

This trend has been traumatic for the region, and not only in an economic sense. The Basque have a concept called indarra<\/i>, a spiritual energy that exists in every house and fuels life changes, from pregnancy to wine fermentation and rennet\u2019s ability to curdle milk. The master of the house controls the indarra and must keep it intact; as a result, parents choose only one child to take over the baserri. This inheritance system encourages continuity and preserves heritage, as an undivided farmstead is considered the repository of Basque culture and values. With this in mind, deteriorating baserri take on a whole new level of symbolic significance.<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Style_basque_3.1\"<\/div>\n

But after centuries of fighting for sovereignty, the Basque are well-versed in safeguarding tradition. In this context architecture and language are more than just cultural\u2014they\u2019re political. The same might be said for cuisine.<\/p>\n

\u201cFood plays a key role in establishing and maintaining Basque identity,\u201d says Elke Panneels, founder of culinary tour company Basque Taste<\/a> based in Bilbao, Spain. \u201cPeople discuss food here as passionately as others would discuss politics.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cheese, for example, has reflected the shifting political landscape on the French side of the border, where prospectors from the Aveyron region arrived in the early 1900s to set up modern facilities to turn local sheep\u2019s milk into Roquefort. While this gave Basque farmers a reliable outlet for their products, it risked turning the region into a supplier of milk for cheese that was aged and sold far away, the benefits of added value realized elsewhere.<\/p>\n

Basque nationalism reached a tipping point in the 1970s, when homegrown radical groups actively fought for sovereignty. Around the same time, French Basque farmers started developing an Appellation d\u2019Origine Contro\u0302le\u0301e<\/i> (AOC, now AOP) for the cheese they\u2019d grown up eating. They named it Ossau-Iraty after the Ossau Valley and the Irati Forest. A few years later\u2014while the Spanish Basque region was enjoying an unprecedented level of autonomy following the death of dictator Francisco Franco and the restoration of democracy\u2014sheep\u2019s milk Roncal<\/a> became the first food to secure a Denominacio\u0301n de Origen<\/i> (DO, now DOP) in Spain.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was very important for us, establishing [Roncal] outside of our home,\u201d says Miguel Azna\u0301rez Lus, who has been producing the cheese for 31 years in the Navarra region.<\/p>\n

\"Tomme<\/p>\n

Bringing It All Back Home<\/h3>\n

How to ensure that the newly-minted AOC and DO cheeses wouldn\u2019t be appropriated by existing factories, those built to process milk for cheeses like Roquefort? The strategy in French Basque was to develop two categories: a regular Ossau-Iraty that could be pasteurized, and an additional designation for fermier<\/i>, or farmstead Ossau-Iraty, subject to stricter production rules. (For example, milk must be raw and come from a single herd.)<\/p>\n

On the Spanish side, farmstead makers of Idiaza\u0301bal formed the Artzai-Gazta (\u201cShepherd Cheese\u201d) cooperative in 1985 to promote and ensure the quality of cheeses made by dairy farmers. Today, its 112 members produce more than half of all DOP-certified Idiaza\u0301bal.<\/p>\n

Many farmers, including Damestoy, still sell sheep\u2019s milk to larger dairies such as French Basque\u2013based Onetik or Agour. These modern facilities make protected Ossau-Iraty along with a range of other private-brand sheep\u2019s milk specialties, such as the soft, sweet, blue-veined Bleu des Basques or the loaf-shaped Ardi Gasna.<\/p>\n

\"SUM16_Style_basque_5\"<\/p>\n

While those cheeses are exported throughout the world, fermier versions are more likely found exactly where they\u2019re made. Today the Pyre\u0301ne\u0301es-Atlantiques area (encompassing French Basque) is one of the top farmstead cheese-producing regions in France. Meanwhile, in Spanish Basque, 95 percent of farmstead Idiaza\u0301bal made by Artzai-Gazta cooperative members is consumed locally.<\/p>\n

In the French Basque village of Osse\u0300s, I\u2019m welcomed into the living room of Isidora Aldax, whose son, Pierre, is busy tending sheep. She removes a dishcloth from a stack of cheeses in the corner of the room. The wheels are far more rustic than Ossau-Iraty from modern dairies\u2014they\u2019re all different shapes and sizes, with holes and cracks in the paste and mottled rinds. \u201cHouse cheeses,\u201d she calls them. I\u2019m not accustomed to shopping in people\u2019s living rooms, but it makes sense: The center of Basque social and economic life has always been in the baserri.<\/p>\n

After I buy another fermier wedge at Elena Monaco\u2019s baserri in the village of Saint-E\u0301tienne-de-Bai\u0308gorry, she walks me to my car, waving back toward her home. \u201cThis is a Basque house,\u201d she says proudly. \u201cYou see? It is very specific, very traditional. Despite everything, we have to preserve our traditions.\u201d<\/p>\n

This same sentiment surfaces in the closing lines of \u201cBasseri,\u201d Basque singer In\u0303aki Eizmendi\u2019s 1966 ode to the homestead: \u201cEuskal arrazik esta galduko, baserririk dan artean,\u201d<\/i> or, \u201cthe Basque race will not be lost, as long as there are farms.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Larraitz<\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/h2>\n

Ossau-Iraty AOP Fermier<\/h3>\n
    \n
  • Maker:<\/strong> Les Fermiers Basco-B\u00e9arnais<\/li>\n
  • Origin:<\/strong> Accous, France<\/li>\n
  • Milk:<\/strong> Raw sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    The super-thick, mottled rind hints of the funkiness to follow, although aromas are surprisingly subtle\u2014faint whiffs of hazelnut, skim milk, and tropical fruit. The toothsome paste crumbles beautifully, and the powerful flavor is acidic and barnyardy.<\/p>\n

    Roncal DOP<\/h3>\n
      \n
    • Maker:<\/strong> Quesos Larra<\/li>\n
    • Origin:<\/strong> Burgui, Spain<\/li>\n
    • Milk:<\/strong> Raw sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Very firm and speckled with tiny holes, Spain\u2019s first DOP cheese has a strong briny aroma. Flavorwise, its sheepy origins are on full display\u2014gamy overtones give way to a slight piquancy and background notes of dried fruit.<\/p>\n

      Abbaye de Belloc<\/h3>\n
        \n
      • Maker:<\/strong> Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc<\/li>\n
      • Origin:<\/strong> Urt, France<\/li>\n
      • Milk:<\/strong> Raw sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        This Ossau-Iraty\u2013style cheese is made by Benedictine monks in the western French Pyrenees. It\u2019s subtle in aroma but surprisingly robust in flavor, with a rollicking sharpness that recalls aged block cheddar and hints of sweetness that temper any acidity.<\/p>\n

        Idiaz\u00e1bal DOP<\/h3>\n
          \n
        • Maker:<\/strong> Quesos Aldanondo<\/li>\n
        • Origin:<\/strong> Salvatierra, Spain<\/li>\n
        • Milk:<\/strong> Raw sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

          Idiaza\u0301bal is all smoky bacon on the nose, but the flavor goes beyond campfire: The dense paste harbors notes of sweet pineapple with pleasingly bitter punches of citrus and pith.<\/p>\n

          Gabietou<\/h3>\n
            \n
          • Maker:<\/strong> Fromagerie Agour & Herv\u00e9 Mons<\/li>\n
          • Origin:<\/strong> H\u00e9lette, France<\/li>\n
          • Milk:<\/strong> Pasteurized sheep’s and cow’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

            The paste is soft and fondantlike with a cellar-meets-apples odor. Flavors bloom slowly on the palate, with notes of almond milk and plum that extend into a long, meaty finish.<\/p>\n

            Bleu des Basques<\/h3>\n
              \n
            • Maker:<\/strong> Onetik<\/li>\n
            • Origin:<\/strong> Macaye, France<\/li>\n
            • Milk:<\/strong> Pasteurized sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

              Deliciously sweet and tangy on the nose, its aroma recalls a big scoop of sour cream. Spotty clusters of gentle bluing punctuate the soft paste, which boasts lovely floral background notes and barnyardy vibes all around. Hints of grains, oats, and yogurt linger.<\/p>\n

              P\u2019tit Basque<\/h3>\n
                \n
              • Maker:<\/strong> Fromagerie Istara<\/li>\n
              • Origin:<\/strong> Larceveau-Arros-Cibits, France<\/li>\n
              • Milk:<\/strong> Pasteurized sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                Smelling of a yeasty, salty cracker with a hint of barnyard, this diminutive wheel has a mild flavor up front followed by deep aromas of mixed nuts\u2014 almonds, hazelnuts, cashews\u2014and a sweet finish.<\/p>\n

                Larraitz Extegarai<\/h3>\n
                  \n
                • Maker:<\/strong> Quesos Aldanondo<\/li>\n
                • Origin:<\/strong> Salvatierra, Spain<\/li>\n
                • Milk:<\/strong> Raw sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                  While the scent of honey-smoked deli ham hits you first, the firm paste is oh so snackable, with butterscotch notes, a tongue-tickling spiciness, and a tangy finish.<\/p>\n

                  Tomme Br\u00fbl\u00e9e<\/h3>\n
                    \n
                  • Maker:<\/strong> Rodolphe Le Meunier<\/li>\n
                  • Origin:<\/strong> Midi-Pyren\u00e9es Region, France<\/li>\n
                  • Milk:<\/strong> Pasteurized sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                    Finished wheels are torched, hence the name (bru\u0302le\u0301e<\/i> means \u201cburnt\u201d in French). Smelling salty and nutty with caramel-penuche sweetness, the paste has lactic notes with some back-of-the-palate spice.<\/p>\n

                    Brique Agour<\/h3>\n
                      \n
                    • Maker:<\/strong> Fromagerie Agour<\/li>\n
                    • Origin:<\/strong> H\u00e9lette, France<\/li>\n
                    • Milk:<\/strong> Pasteurized sheep’s milk<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                      This loaf-shaped cheese has an ombre\u0301 appearance, as the grey rind gradually transitions to a pale-yellow paste. Tangy, with background aromas of roasted cashews, warm milk, and eggnog, it has a round finish and dry wood notes.<\/p>\n

                      \"Bleu<\/p>\n

                      Cheese photographed by Andrew Purcell, styled by Carrie Purcell<\/em><\/small><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                      Preserving Basque cheesemaking tradition begins at home<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":28054,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,26354],"tags":[],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-27533","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","category-stories"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCheese Styles: Basque Sheep's Milk Cheeses - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese Styles: Basque Sheep's Milk Cheeses\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Preserving Basque cheesemaking tradition begins at home\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-07-22T21:12:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-01-26T18:46:43+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/06\/SUM16_Style_basque_ftr.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Molly McDonough\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Molly McDonough\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"9 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-style-basque-sheeps-milk-cheeses\/\",\"name\":\"Cheese Styles: Basque Sheep's Milk Cheeses - 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