{"id":28728,"date":"2016-12-07T12:11:20","date_gmt":"2016-12-07T17:11:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=28728"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:53:17","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:53:17","slug":"laclare-farms-flips-the-script","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/laclare-farms-flips-the-script\/","title":{"rendered":"Flipping the Script at LaClare Farms"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cheese tales: They develop over centuries in famous dairy regions, giving meaning to food and situating it in space and time. In Wisconsin, such stories tend to begin with settlers from European nations such as Switzerland, Germany, or Italy, who brought cheesemaking traditions with them. If Brie<\/a> evokes Charlemagne and Alpine cheeses<\/a> conjure a yodeling shepherd, Wisconsin cheeses recall one of these immigrants, the keeper of ancestral secrets for turning cow\u2019s milk into beloved Badger State wheels.<\/p>\n

During a weeklong visit to America\u2019s Dairyland, I couldn\u2019t help but notice signs of cheese lore everywhere: bovines, burly fourth-generation farmers, Swiss flags, family crests. In fact, I thought I had the state\u2019s cheese scene all figured out\u2014until I pulled up to LaClare Farms<\/a> in Malone, on the shores of Lake Winnebago. Immediately, something was different. First I saw goats. Then I saw Katie Fuhrmann.<\/p>\n

Attendees at the 2011 United States Championship Cheese Contest<\/a> must have felt similarly when they saw her\u2014a petite woman of no more than 25 with just a year of cheesemaking experience under her belt\u2014take home the US Champion award for her goat\u2019s milk gouda-style<\/a> Evalon<\/a>, besting 1,601 other cheeses from around the country. Not only was Fuhrmann, ne\u0301e Hedrich, the youngest cheesemaker ever to win the prize in the contest\u2019s 120-year history, she was also the second woman. While prizewinners are a dime a dozen in Wisconsin, cheesemaking women are a rare breed, accounting for less than five percent of licensed makers in the state.<\/p>\n

\"aut16_laclare_1\"<\/center><\/p>\n

Prologue<\/h3>\n

Unlike so many of her male peers, Fuhrmann\u2019s cheese story does not begin with a lederhosen-donning, cow-herding great-grandfather. Instead it starts in 1970s Wisconsin, with her parents, Larry and Clara Hedrich: newlyweds with a small backyard and two goats named Whiskey and Brandy.<\/p>\n

The Hedrichs always dreamed of making cheese from their goats\u2019 milk. \u201cWe went to goat farms on our honeymoon,\u201d Larry remembers. \u201cWe visited cheese plants from day one, and we wondered, How can we make this work?\u201d At that time nearly all Wisconsin cheese was made with cow\u2019s milk\u2014the market for che\u0300vre simply didn\u2019t exist\u2014so the couple kept their day jobs (Larry in construction, Clara as an agricultural science teacher) while raising five children and a small herd of 4-H show goats.<\/p>\n

When a few goat cheeses arrived on the scene in the 1990s, the Hedrichs finally found a place to sell their milk: a cheese plant 25 miles away. In 2005, Larry and a handful of other goat farmers formed the Quality Dairy Goat Producers Co-op to collectively sell goat\u2019s milk to other cheese plants around the state. But it wasn\u2019t until 2008 that the Hedrichs developed their first cheese, teaming up with dairy consultant Neville McNaughton to create a recipe and using the vat at nearby Saxon Creamery<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"aut16_laclare_2\"
\nThe herd hangs out at LaClare Farms.<\/em><\/div>\n

Chapter One<\/h3>\n

That cheese\u2014Evalon\u2014was good. So good, in fact, that the first time the couple entered it into the US Championship Cheese Contest (in 2009), it placed second in its class. Larry and Clara were unable to attend the awards ceremony, so they sent their daughter, Katie, instead. At that time, she\u2019d just graduated from Northern Michigan University with a degree in marketing, and was working as a retail manager at Target. \u201cI was hating my life,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Fuhrmann recalls that night vividly. \u201cI was sitting in the hallway awkwardly before the reception, because I didn\u2019t know anybody.\u201d But alone and quiet, she was listening\u2014to cheese industry friends, to the Master Cheesemaker<\/a> and his wife seated next to her during the reception\u2014and she was fascinated. \u201cIt was just neat,\u201d she remembers, \u201cthe connections that people had \u2026 it wasn\u2019t even so much about the cheesemaking. It was more about the community, about how cheesemaking impacted families. I was just thinking: This is what I\u2019m missing.\u201d<\/p>\n

After the awards ceremony, Fuhrmann called her father with a sweeping proclamation: \u201cI\u2019m going to be a Master Cheesemaker.\u201d<\/p>\n

Larry didn\u2019t take her seriously. \u201cI was like, OK, whatever, I gotta milk,\u201d he says. Later, his efforts to dissuade her were in vain. After volunteering at Saxon Creamery for two days, Fuhrmann finalized her decision. It wasn\u2019t long before she took over Evalon\u2019s production at Saxon, and she has worked and experimented tirelessly to expand the business ever since.<\/p>\n

Having found her calling, \u201cthe rest was history,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\"aut16_laclare_3\"
\nMaking raw goat’s milk cheddar<\/em><\/div>\n

The Plot Thickens<\/h3>\n

Today LaClare Farms makes 20 to 30 variations on five different cheeses, in a sparkling new plant the Hedrichs opened in 2013. Some, like Evalon, are crafted with raw milk from the LaClare goatherd, while others\u2014such as fruity, cheddar-like Chandoka<\/a>\u2014have pasteurized cow\u2019s milk in the mix. (Some wheels of Chandoka are sent to aging caves at Standard Market<\/a> outside of Chicago, where they\u2019re bound in cloth and aged for up to two years.) The awards keep coming: Evalon won first in its class at the 2012 American Cheese Society Judging & Competition<\/a>, while cave-aged Chandoka won runner-up for Best of Show there in 2015.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Cheddar-style

Cheddar-style goat’s and cow’s milk Chandoka<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The company released a line of goat\u2019s milk yogurts in June and plans to begin processing whey next year. The new facility\u2014which includes a farm, creamery, aging cave, retail shop, and cafe\u0301\u2014employs 20 locals, including three more of Larry and Clara\u2019s children: Greg is the business manager; Anna, the herd manager; and Jessica runs the retail shop and cafe\u0301.<\/p>\n

The return of the family has been a lucky surprise. \u201cYou can\u2019t pound a square peg into a round hole,\u201d says Larry, who never intended to mold his children into farmers. \u201cMy children had to go out and find their passions. But they learned skills that we needed for this business, and brought those back to us. That was good fortune.\u201d<\/p>\n

It\u2019s all the more remarkable given the struggles faced by family farms today. Despite a thriving cheese industry, 20,000 acres of farmland are lost in Wisconsin each year, while the average age of a farmer is 57. Small farms face pressure to increase their size, and more than 50 percent of farmers hold off-farm jobs.<\/p>\n

\"aut16_laclare_4\"
\nLaClare Farms goats in the barn attached to the family’s new creamery in Malone.<\/em><\/div>\n

The Story Continues…<\/h3>\n

Fuhrmann believes that goats have promise. \u201cIn my opinion, goat farming is the new family farming,\u201d she says. After all, goat farmers can increase herd size without needing the same infrastructure as they might with dairy cows, while benefiting from a growing milk market. If goats represent opportunity in Wisconsin, it\u2019s likely in part because the Hedrichs have pursued their dreams with the wider community in mind. Today Larry is president of the Quality Dairy Goat Producers Co-op; at least two new family farms will join the organization this year.<\/p>\n

Having apprenticed alongside many Wisconsin Master Cheesemakers and en route to becoming one herself, Furhmann understands the value of cooperation. \u201cGood cheesemakers breed other good cheesemakers, and people collaborate and make the area better for everybody,\u201d she says. LaClare\u2019s store sells cheeses from other local producers, as well as goods from the region.<\/p>\n

LaClare has grown to an extent that nobody imagined possible. \u201cIt\u2019s not like a lot of other businesses, where it\u2019s like, let\u2019s see if this works,\u201d Larry says. \u201cWe have to make it work. We don\u2019t have any other options. We are all in.\u201d<\/p>\n

If there\u2019s one thing the LaClare story shares with that of Wisconsin cheese, it\u2019s the idea of passing down traditions to the next generation. The land on which the Hedrichs opened their new farm once belonged to Larry\u2019s grandfather, and today Larry and Clara\u2019s grandkids scuttle around it, chasing goats. Theirs isn\u2019t a story that began in Europe. It\u2019s homegrown, a new kind of Dairyland cheese legend that\u2019s still unfolding\u2014with the Hedrich family at the helm.<\/p>\n

\"aut16_laclare_5\"
\nThe Hedrich family members who work at LaClare Farms, from left to right: Katie Furhmann, Greg Hedrich, Anna Zastrow, Larry Hedrich, Jessica Mayer, and Clara Hedrich.<\/em><\/div>\n

Photography by Chris Homayouni<\/em><\/small><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A new kind of cheese story is unfolding in Wisconsin<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":28730,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[929,19783,14806,1233,1622,855,2655,19779,2057,638,19781,1098,1051,19782,19784,19140,1342,19777,19778,1235,19780,2289,14412,14016,978],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-28728","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-alpine-cheese","tag-anna-zastrow","tag-badger-state","tag-brie","tag-chandoka","tag-chevre","tag-chicago","tag-clara-hedrich","tag-evalon","tag-goat-cheese","tag-goat-farming","tag-goat-milk","tag-gouda","tag-greg-hedrich","tag-jessica-mayer","tag-katie-fuhrmann","tag-laclare-farms","tag-lake-winnebago","tag-larry-hedrich","tag-molly-mcdonough","tag-quality-dairy-goat-producers-co-op","tag-saxon-creamery","tag-standard-market","tag-united-states-championship-cheese-contest","tag-wisconsin"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFlipping the Script at LaClare Farms - 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