{"id":28969,"date":"2017-01-11T14:12:36","date_gmt":"2017-01-11T19:12:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=28969"},"modified":"2019-08-06T14:44:03","modified_gmt":"2019-08-06T18:44:03","slug":"artisanal-alchemy-jacobs-brichford-distinctive-sustainable-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/artisanal-alchemy-jacobs-brichford-distinctive-sustainable-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Artisanal Alchemy: Jacobs & Brichford and Distinctive, Sustainable Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"

Artisanal Alchemy<\/i><\/b> is a series of interviews with award-winning American cheesemakers across the United States. We discuss their journeys to the industry and how their origins and ideals impact their approaches to curd design and development.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

\n

Matthew Brichford of <\/span>Jacobs & Brichford Farmstead Cheese<\/span><\/a> is an ardent proponent of ethical and sustainable farming. A vocal advocate for these positive practices, Brichford feels like-minded farmers are working against a food <\/span>system that stands in the way. \u201c<\/span>Without my wife working and the support of my family, it\u2019d be difficult to do [what I do]. If we want to feed Americans differently, trying to get people to switch to organic farming or more natural styles of farming, they\u2019ve got to be rewarded for doing that. If they have to go out and work as hard as I have . . . they can\u2019t,\u201d he said during a recent <\/span>culture<\/b> interview. <\/span><\/p>\n

Brichford has worked in agriculture his entire life. Though his father was a professor at the University of Illinois, Brichford felt the familial pull from his mother\u2019s side to take over the family farm. By 1981, he was leading the farm that had been in his family since 1819. It was from his grandfather, a cattle farmer, that he learned to see his cows as more than just profit. \u201cWhen you start raising livestock you enter a commitment to provide. When you have a puppy, you take on a responsibility [for] that animal. Multiply that by a hundred.\u201d Much of Brichford\u2019s ideals come from this history.<\/span><\/p>\n

Though his creamery is only four years old, Brichford\u2019s <\/span>cheeses<\/span><\/a> have already taken home honors from both the Good Food Awards<\/a> and the American Cheese Society Judging & Competition<\/a>. <\/span>Culture<\/b> chatted with Brichford about the development of his first recipes and balancing the financial demands of his business with the desire to make unique artisanal cheeses.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Brichford<\/a>

Brichford slices into his Briana curd. Photo Credit: Leslie Jacobs<\/p><\/div>\n

When Brichford started his creamery, he first sought the guidance of consulting connoisseurs. To develop his own spin, he combined their insight, his own research, and a multitude of recipes.<\/b><\/p>\n

Those first three cheeses, I got recipes from either [consultants] Neville [<\/span>McNaughton] <\/span>or Brian [Civitello]. Those guys helped me develop those first cheeses and of course, we tweak them. I\u2019m picky, I have a picky palette so I get things the way I like them to taste. We started making Adair a couple of years ago and it\u2019s styled after a Reblochon. There\u2019s a few people making that style in this country but it\u2019s not real common. It\u2019s a 45 [day aged] cheese in France and to [legally] have a raw milk Reblochon here, it\u2019s gotta be [aged] 60 days. I was able to get a bunch of recipes for Reblochon, both industrial and artisanal, and then the farmstead cheese recipes. I synthesized all of those and came out with something that we thought we could age a little longer. Those recipes call for a lot of B. linens (<\/span>Brevibacterium linens<\/span><\/i>)<\/span> <\/i>and we got B. linens coming out of our ears in our milk so we omitted all of that.<\/span><\/p>\n

Brichford tailors his cheese to his own taste and makes a product that won\u2019t be completely foreign to customers but will also be new to the market.<\/b><\/p>\n

They\u2019re the cheeses I like. I wanted to do something that was slightly different. We definitely wanted to be appealing to the gourmet artisan market and we wanted to do some that weren\u2019t as common. [The cheeses we make are] well known enough, but not real common. We\u2019re here in the middle of the Midwest and trying to find things that appeal to more Midwestern palates. I\u2019m not selling everything I\u2019m making at this point in time so we\u2019re throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. We\u2019ve come up with a couple new cheeses this year. We\u2019ve added a tomme and a soft bloomy rind thing and also started making feta. Even in the big cities in the Midwest, there\u2019s a much more conservative palate. So like Ameribella, it\u2019s a strong cheese and we have plenty of people in the Midwest that like it [but] we sell a lot [more] of [the] cheese in the Bay Area. In the Midwest, you know, if it\u2019s outside of Colby and cheddar it gets a little weird [for people]. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Brichford<\/a>

Brichford holds his curd over the draining basin. Photo Credit: Leslie Jacobs<\/p><\/div>\n

Product development is difficult in the aged curd world when your final product can only be taste tested months later. <\/b><\/p>\n

Making cheese is kind of like driving down the road and only looking in the rearview mirror because you\u2019re going to have to wait. We monitor the make process and know what our pH is and of course what our culture blend was, but we\u2019ve got to wait for a while before we can get any inkling on how it\u2019s going to taste. You may have had made several other batches since then. Flavor wise, we\u2019re generally fairly close to where we want to be when we start and if it\u2019s salty, you can adjust brine times or brine strength and things like that. As far as culture, you can find that out before you start. We tweak all the time. I would never say anything is 100 percent done because you\u2019ve got to change it all the time. We\u2019re a seasonal herd so the consistency of our milk changes throughout the season. <\/span><\/p>\n

Brichford curated his own group of critics for an outsider’s perspective on his cheese. Still, he wishes that the community would be more comfortable providing constructive criticism to help his products grow.<\/b><\/p>\n

Unless it\u2019s really bad, people don\u2019t give you too much negative criticism. I wish they would. Just say, \u201cI<\/span>t\u2019s all right but it needs a little of this<\/span>.\u201d I do seek out a lot of criticism from people whose opinion I value. I\u2019ll send them cheese and I tell them to rip it up and let me know what\u2019s going on. I have friends that are cheesemakers who have been doing it longer and they\u2019re well known and everything, they never have to worry about selling cheese. I\u2019m not there yet so I\u2019m always trying to find something that will move. <\/span><\/p>\n

An avid proponent of raw milk cheeses, Brichford ponders whether he should move into pasteurized products both for the health of his business and his community. <\/b><\/p>\n

One thing about [pasteurizing] is that right now I make healthy food for wealthy people and I\u2019ve always thought it would be nice to be able to put our milk into cheaper product. Pasteurizing it would allow me to get something out the door quicker and for a more regional market. I\u2019m talking with some people now about possibly making cheese for them and doing a premium grass-fed cheese. Some of them would be raw milk but a grass-fed cheese with a more Midwestern appeal flavor-wise and a cheaper price point. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"Brichford<\/a>

Brichford prepares his award-winning Briana with Truffles curd for the form. Photo Credit: Leslie Jacobs<\/p><\/div>\n

Culture asked Brichford about what inspires him to make a specific cheese. It\u2019s balancing creativity while not losing sight of maintaining the quality of existing products. <\/b><\/p>\n

I have seen some people make a lot of cheese and none of them are very good. I don\u2019t want to get into that situation. It\u2019s certainly not boring making the same cheese because it\u2019s a different batch every time [even if] you may not have to change much. Making a high quality product is number one. It\u2019s intellectually stimulating to do different cheeses . . . but I\u2019m not doing it because I\u2019m bored. I\u2019m doing it because I\u2019m trying to find a market for my milk. When I first started I thought I\u2019d just make a couple kinds of cheeses, do them real well, and sell it all. But it hasn\u2019t worked that way. I\u2019ve got to find other things that I can take pride in doing but get them to sell as well. <\/span>
\n<\/b><\/p>\n

Brichford advises curd lovers to embrace the unknown and appreciate a quality product for what it offers and not overemphasize price.<\/b><\/p>\n

I think people should trust their own palate. A lot of times people like something more if somebody\u2019s opinion they respect likes it and it helps to get past that. Trust your taste buds and be adventurous! [Something to consider with] handmade food is that somebody went through a lot of trouble to make that for you and yes, you did pay for it but there\u2019s a lot that goes into [it]. That\u2019s something wrong with our food economy now. People want cheap and fast and health and sustainability come from slow and with attention to detail. I think we\u2019d be a healthier people if we paid more attention to what we eat and if health and sustainability were the bottom line rather than profitability. So consumers need to support people that are trying to further those ends. <\/span>
\n<\/span><\/b><\/p>\n

For Brichford, the right concoction of art and science is 50\/50.<\/b><\/p>\n

I would say it\u2019s pretty close to 50\/50. My milk, my cheese tastes like it does because of the way I farm and the genetics of my cattle so that\u2019s science, too, but it’s more to use the term \u201cart,\u201d it\u2019s more of a craft. We practice good technique both in sanitation and we do what needs to be done at the right time and do it properly. That\u2019s the technique, which would be the art side [as well as] the science. You\u2019ve got to have both. The creativity and satisfying your palate, that\u2019s a very subjective sort of artistic thing. It\u2019s difficult to quantify because it\u2019s how you blend [art and science] that makes the difference. <\/span><\/p>\n

Feature Photo Credit: Leslie Jacobs<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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