{"id":29410,"date":"2016-12-07T13:37:24","date_gmt":"2016-12-07T18:37:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=29410"},"modified":"2021-02-26T16:03:03","modified_gmt":"2021-02-26T21:03:03","slug":"garmy-puits-dastier","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/garmy-puits-dastier\/","title":{"rendered":"Centerfold: Puits d’Astier"},"content":{"rendered":"

Why do doughnuts have holes? In 1916 a writer for The Boston Post<\/em> posed the timeless question to the snack\u2019s supposed inventor, Hanson Gregory.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey used to fry all right around the edges, but when you had the edges done the insides was all raw dough,\u201d responded the New England ship captain, who often whipped up dough balls to feed his hungry crew. In the interest of even cooking, Gregory sliced a void in the middle of his creations. \u201cI says to myself, ‘Why wouldn\u2019t a space inside solve the difficulty?’ . . . and so I cut into that doughnut the first hole ever seen by mortal eyes!\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Affineur

Affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier wraps a slice of Puits d’Astier at his aging caves near Tours, France<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Fast forward a century to a sprawling aging cave near Tours, France, where affineur Rodolphe Le Meunier<\/a> holds up Puits d\u2019Astier, a cheese that looks like a wide, flattened doughnut. Dusted in frostinglike white fuzz and sprinkled with yellow mold, the wheel has a hole in the middle and bulging edges. I\u2019m well aware how very Am\u00e9ricaine<\/em> it is of me to compare an artisanal fromage to a Yankee junk food\u2014still, I ask Le Meunier what the Puits would be without that hole. Lo and behold, the metaphor has merit.<\/p>\n

\u201cOf course, it wouldn\u2019t be the same,\u201d he says. It\u2019s all about the maturation\u2014\u201cnormally a cheese ages from the outside to the inside.\u201d Sans inner cavity, explains the affineur, the wheel would age starting from its far outer edges, creeping toward the center. But with that extra surface area, maturation happens more evenly, ripening not only from the outer rind inward but also from the inner circle towards the outer rind.<\/p>\n

Sure, there are plenty of cheese wheels that age just fine without a space inside. But the Puits d\u2019Astier is delicate; the moist and creamy uncooked sheep\u2019s milk curd results in a paste that becomes fondantesque over time\u2014almost to the point of collapsing. And for a cheese this soft, it\u2019s uncommonly large: 16 inches in diameter, to be exact. Without that hole, maturation would soften the outer edges too quickly, leaving the inside firm and rubbery. (A bit like Captain Gregory described: \u201cWhen you had the edges done, the insides was all raw.\u201d) \u201cIf one used a small mold to make a small wheel of it, aging would be easy,\u201d he says. But for the hulking, ooze-prone Puits, \u201cit\u2019s different.\u201d He presses gently on the outside edge of the wheel. \u201cYou see how it\u2019s supple there? It\u2019s truly, truly creamy.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"A

A slice of Puits d’Astier oozes on a cheese plate<\/small><\/em><\/center><\/p><\/div>\n

Le Meunier knows Puits well because he\u2019s the affineur overseeing its striking transformation. Wheels arrive at his aging cave in the village of La Croix-en-Touraine when they\u2019re about two months old. At that point they\u2019re firmer with sharper edges and a dusting of white mold\u2014and they\u2019re hiding a secret. They\u2019ve already been colonized by molds that will burst to life over the next six weeks, yielding fuzzy patches in light and dark shades of gray. Most striking of all are the yellow, cloudlike colonies of Chrysosporium sulfureum<\/em>, which emerge slowly in spots where other fungi have been growing for some time.<\/p>\n

Among the smooth, tawny Comt\u00e9s<\/a> and Ossau-Iratys in Le Meunier\u2019s aging cave, the Puits\u2019 distinctive fuzz stands out, hinting at its true origins. According to Tufts University microbiologist Benjamin Wolfe<\/a>, yellow C. sulfureum<\/em> is found in a few different places in the world\u2014in the nests of leaf-cutting ants and on mushroom farms, for instance\u2014but it\u2019s particularly prevalent in natural caves in the Auvergne region of France.<\/p>\n

And that\u2019s exactly where the Puits is made: two hundred miles away, in the Auvergne. At Laiterie Antoine Garmy<\/a> in the Astier village of Orl\u00e9at, Bertrand Poussous guides me into a small aging room stuffed with cheeses covered in that white-gray-yellow combo. When Garmy first developed the cheese in 1980, it was aged in natural caves near Clermont-Ferrand alongside wheels of AOP Saint-Nectaire<\/a>. That\u2019s where they first developed the mold, says the head cheesemaker, and \u201cwhen we moved it here, the mold contaminated this room . . . and we kept it.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\n
\"A

A small Gaperon round used to cultivate and spread molds to new Puits d’Astier wheels<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Scattered throughout are small rounds of Gaperon, another Garmy cheese. Normally these dome-shaped cow\u2019s milk rounds are sold with faint white dusty rinds, but here they have thick manes of fuzz interspersed with bulging C. sulfureum<\/em> colonies. Nobody will eat them; their sole purpose is only to keep the mold spores circulating, colonizing new Puits wheels. By the time the wheels reach Le Meunier\u2019s cave, he\u2019ll just need to carefully control the temperature and humidity and let the rind do its thing. The whole process is an exercise in cultivating an ecosystem with patience. \u201cWe must keep the ambience,\u201d Poussous explains.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Similar to its crowded aging room, the Garmy dairy itself is small and rustic, betraying little hint that it\u2019s the birthplace of cheeses that wow turophiles across the oceans. But as I sip espresso with Garmy\u2019s managing director Francis Bouyssou in an upstairs office plastered with maps of the Auvergne\u2019s verdant volcanic mountains, a palpable enthusiasm emerges. Garmy has typically eschewed expanding its facilities and polishing its exterior to focus solely on their cheeses\u2014 on making them unique, on making them varied, and on making them well.<\/div>\n
 <\/div>\n
Like many French family-run laiteries<\/em>, Garmy has become an area institution since its founding in 1922, buying milk from the surrounding farms and selling cheese to the village\u2019s households and restaurants. But the sheer range of products made here seems to outsize the building itself: Today in the on-site cheese shop, more than 40 cheeses bear the Garmy name. Some are AOP-certified (Bleu d\u2019Auvergne<\/a> and Fourme d\u2019Ambert<\/a>), but most\u2014such as the Puits d\u2019Astier\u2014are original inventions, from soft-ripened to firm and aged styles of all shapes and sizes made with cow\u2019s, goat\u2019s, sheep\u2019s, or buffalo\u2019s milks, including the only buffalo\u2019s milk blue cheese produced in France.<\/div>\n
 <\/div>\n
\n
\n
\"Managing

Managing director Francis Bouyssou shows off some of Garmy’s original cheeses in the dairy’s on-site shop<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The sheep\u2019s milk Puits is all the more impressive given that in a region with a historic dependence on cow\u2019s milk and very few sheep, Garmy has undertaken the daunting task of creating such a large-format sheep\u2019s milk cheese. It hasn\u2019t always been easy; the dairy has had to work closely with local farmers over decades to help them adopt and improve their ewe\u2019s milk production. A shaky period during the financial crisis in 2011 left Garmy with a surplus of milk, forcing them to sever some of these ties, which they\u2019re now rebuilding. Bouyssou, a former management executive for a photobooth company, came out of retirement\u2014\u201cI\u2019m a little crazy,\u201d he explains\u2014to help update and streamline the third-generation dairy company. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

When I ask the team why they would go through all that trouble to make a big sheep\u2019s milk cheese like Puits, a hush falls over the room. \u201cIt\u2019s a good question,\u201d Bouyssou finally says with a chuckle, as if it had never occurred to him. \u201cWell . . . to be different.\u201d<\/div>\n
 <\/div>\n
And how different Puits d\u2019Astier is. When Le Meunier cuts into it like a bundt cake, removing the first slice, the totally smooth, cream- colored paste begins to slowly sag, exuding aromas of fresh milk and hazelnut. It melts beautifully in the mouth, a lack of salt allowing more subtle musty and vegetal aromas to come to the fore\u2014while the rind infuses the outer edges with touches of humid basement and bitterness.<\/div>\n
 <\/div>\n
And the name? Puits<\/em> actually means \u201cwell\u201d and is named for a famous well in the village of Astier. The image makes sense, considering the cheese\u2019s subterranean aromas, lichen-on-a-rock mold splatters, and, of course, its central hole. As it turns out\u2014confirmed by Bouyssou\u2014the Puits has nothing to do with pastry. But when I take a bite, I still can\u2019t help but hear an echo of Captain Gregory\u2019s words: \u201cWell, sir, them doughnuts was the finest I ever tasted.\u201d<\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The unparalleled Puits d’Astier reminds us to appreciate the space between<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":29425,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[424],"tags":[992,19745,19740,19743,19747,19744,2106,3094,19739,3395,1987,3242,991,19746,19737,19741,19748,1235,19742,1629,19738,2331,4029,19736,19735],"coauthors":[290,988],"class_list":["post-29410","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-centerfold","tag-affinage","tag-aop-saint-nectaire","tag-benjamin-wolfe","tag-bertrand-poussous","tag-bleu-dauvergne","tag-clermont-ferrand","tag-comte","tag-deer-creek-the-blue-jay","tag-donut-cheese","tag-donuts","tag-doughnuts","tag-fourme-dambert","tag-france","tag-gaperon","tag-hanson-gregory","tag-laiterie-antoine-garmy","tag-michael-marquand","tag-molly-mcdonough","tag-orleat","tag-ossau-iraty","tag-puits-dastier","tag-rodolphe-le-meunier","tag-sheeps-milk-cheese","tag-the-boston-post","tag-why-do-donuts-have-holes"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCenterfold: Puits d'Astier - 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