{"id":29907,"date":"2017-03-30T12:00:55","date_gmt":"2017-03-30T16:00:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=29907"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:52:05","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:52:05","slug":"luck-story-pure-luck-farm-dairy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/luck-story-pure-luck-farm-dairy\/","title":{"rendered":"As Luck Would Have It: The Story of Pure Luck Farm and Dairy"},"content":{"rendered":"

As Luck Would Have It is featured in our Spring 2017 issue<\/a>. <\/em><\/h4>\n

It’s a humid, overcast day in the Texas Hill Country, roughly 30 miles west of Austin. The undulating landscape is dotted with juniper and oak trees, limestone outcrops, and native grasses. It’s surprisingly lush in spring, which makes the goats of Pure Luck Farm and Dairy<\/a> happy, indeed.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Second-generation

Second-generation cheesemaker Amelia Sweethardt with a few of her employees.<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The 100 ruminants\u2014Nubians, Alpines, and crosses\u2014that supply the milk for Pure Luck\u2019s farmstead cheeses aren\u2019t just in a good mood due to widespread forage. Cheesemaker, director of operations, and herd manager Amelia Sweethardt, her husband and general manager, Ben Guyton, her sister Claire Bolton, and four full-time employees ensure that every animal is treated like family from birth.<\/p>\n

When Sweethardt and I enter the pasture, the goats move as one across the enclosure and within seconds we\u2019re surrounded. Sweethardt steps away, leaving me in the eye of the swarm, where I\u2019m nuzzled and nibbled with great affection. It\u2019s not unusual caprine behavior, but even after a lifetime raising and working with dairy goats, I\u2019m surprised by the herd\u2019s special bond with humans.<\/p>\n

\u201cI enjoy the relationship that develops from bottle-feeding the kids,\u201d Sweethardt says. She began making cheese in 1997, and acquired the family business in 2005 after her mother and Pure Luck founder, Sara Sweetser, passed away. \u201cEven though my sisters [Gitana, Claire, and Hope] and I grew up milking and working on the farm, I was the only one with cheesemaking and operations experience,\u201d Sweethardt says. \u201cGiven that the farm\u2019s future depended on that, it was an easy choice to step into my mom\u2019s role and carry on what she started.\u201d<\/p>\n

Creating a Ch\u00e8vre Legacy<\/h2>\n

What Sweetser started was one of the Lone Star State\u2019s first certified-organic farms. In 1979, the single mother of two purchased an 11-acre, 1930s tomato farm on Barton Creek, just outside of Dripping Springs. In 1983, Sweetser met Denny Bolton, a plant-nursery worker, landscaper, and organic gardener; the couple married and had two daughters together. What began as a labor of love and a subsistence enterprise quickly became a thriving, family-owned and operated wholesale produce business growing cucumbers, culinary herbs, and cut flowers (today, the farm solely sells herbs).<\/p>\n

\n
\"Pure

A few of the Pure Luck ladies.<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Sweetser fell hard for goats; a stint looking after a friend\u2019s small herd in 1981 inspired her to purchase her own animals and try her hand at cheesemaking. She built a milking parlor and creamery with the intention of bringing her ch\u00e8vre to market\u2014a dream that came true in 1995 when she received her Grade A dairy license.<\/p>\n

\u201cShe was in the right place at the right time, but she was also uncompromising about quality and following regulations,\u201d Sweethardt says of her mother.<\/p>\n

Pure Luck has been a family affair from the get-go\u2014Denny pitched in with sales (though he\u2019s now retired and a writer) and Sweethardt\u2019s sisters have all, at one time or another, been involved in the company. Claire continues to help manage the herd and also makes cheese. (\u201cShe has an amazing capacity for taste and smell,\u201d Sweethardt says of her sister. \u201cShe\u2019s so observant.\u201d)<\/p>\n

The creamery\u2019s offerings\u2014all of which are pasteurized and made with microbial rennet\u2014first took home awards from the American Cheese Society Judging & Competition in 1998. \u201cThat\u2019s when Mom really felt like she\u2019d broken through in the industry,\u201d Sweethardt says. The clean flavor and exceptionally light texture of the cheeses have also made fans of Texas\u2019 most acclaimed chefs and restaurants, including Austin\u2019s Emmer & Rye<\/a>, Barley Swine<\/a>, and Olamaie<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Good Investments<\/h2>\n

Ranching and farming have always been important in the Hill Country. A geographically diverse region of karsts, deep creeks, and prairies comprising 31,000 square miles, it was settled in the mid-1800s by German immigrants and homesteaders from the Ozarks and Appalachians. Despite its proximity to the Pedernales River, the Dripping Springs area has never been suited to cow dairying because the soil is thin and rocky, and there\u2019s little rainfall. It\u2019s a wonderful place for raising goats, however. \u201cThey\u2019re browsers rather than grazers, and the outcrops are ideal goat habitat,\u201d Sweethardt explains.<\/p>\n

Three livestock dogs\u2014a Turkish Kangal, an Akbash, and a Great Pyrenees<\/a>\u2014guard the farm\u2019s goats from coyotes. The animals feed on pasture and supplemental alfalfa hay, and twice a day they troop into the small milking parlor. The milk is pumped directly into the bulk tank, then transformed into delicate, basket-molded ch\u00e8vre, sold plain or flavored variously with red Anaheim chilies, cracked black pepper, and mixed herbs. There\u2019s also feta<\/a>, the beguiling June\u2019s Joy (fresh cheese blended with local Round Rock wildflower honey), and ash-coated Sainte Maure logs.<\/p>\n

\"A

A sampling of the dairy’s cheeses. Clockwise from top left: Anaheim Red Chili Chevre, Cracked Black Pepper Chevre, Feta, Mixed Herb Chevre, Plain Chevre, and June’s Joy.<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

When Sweethardt took over cheesemaking in 2005, she tweaked and refined all of the cheeses originally developed by her mother, with an eye toward consistency. Although the myriad ch\u00e8vres are Pure Luck\u2019s \u201cbread and butter,\u201d Sweethardt says, aged cheeses provide income during winter months. Hopelessly Bleu<\/a>, for one, ripens eight to 12 weeks. The petite wheel\u2014named for Sweethardt\u2019s sister, Hope Bolton, who famously dislikes blues\u2014has an appealing ivory paste with notes of cream and salt. It has won multiple awards at the American Cheese Society Judging & Competition, and now is one of the dairy\u2019s best-selling products. \u201cIf you\u2019re going to spend the time and money aging cheese in your creamery, it better be good,\u201d Sweethardt says.<\/p>\n

While she can still be found in the make room most days, Sweethardt promoted employee Olivia Gonzalez to creamery manager in 2013. \u201cI\u2019m like the head chef and she\u2019s the sous chef,\u201d she says, with a laugh. Gonzalez and her husband, Juan Cruz\u2014the former herd manager, he now oversees the herb farm with his brother, Trini\u2014have been working at Pure Luck for more than 16 years. \u201cYou\u2019ve got to invest in your people, and be able to delegate,\u201d Sweethardt says. \u201cThis is their only job, and even in winter there\u2019s plenty to do. We plan it that way, so we can pay them year-round.\u201d<\/p>\n

The creamery\u2014replete with a 160-gallon pasteurizer that dominates the 288-square-foot make room\u2014operates seven days a week. \u201cAlthough we remodeled the plant last year,\u201d Sweethardt remarks, \u201cwe didn\u2019t change the functionality\u2014it\u2019s always been designed so that one person can do everything herself, from draining vats to flipping molds.\u201d During peak season from April to August, Pure Luck produces 600 pounds of cheese a week by hand.<\/p>\n

Making Connections<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Sweethardt's

Sweethardt’s husband, Ben, and their son, June, visit the pasture.<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

With all that hard labor to be done, Sweethardt and Guyton strive for efficiency and work-life balance. (The couple has two children\u2014son, June, 8, and daughter, Sara, 3, both help out in the barn.) They stagger goat breeding so that the babies aren\u2019t all born around the same time, which also ensures a year-round milk supply. \u201cI think it\u2019s a lifestyle choice,\u201d Sweethardt says. \u201cIt has to work for your family, or it doesn\u2019t work.\u201dGoat breeding fascinates her. \u201cI\u2019m passionate about the genetic variants in dairy goats and how that affects cheesemaking,\u201d Sweethardt says. Last summer, Pure Luck introduced AI (artificial insemination) into its live breeding program, primarily to select for genetics that carry high levels of alpha s1 casein, one of the main proteins responsible for curd formation in goat\u2019s milk.<\/p>\n

With Pure Luck\u2019s thriving herd and products established at Antonelli\u2019s Cheese Shop, Houston Dairymaids, Central Market, and other renowned Texas cheese counters, the team is close to achieving a longtime goal: opening a farm store. A renovated mid-century cottage, relocated from Austin, will house a small retail shop (offering made-to-order cheese plates and picnic baskets to go), classroom, and teaching kitchen. Though Pure Luck has always held cheesemaking classes and tours by appointment, the expansion facilitates new ways to connect\u2014and reconnect\u2014with customers.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen we started, we sold our cheese out of a walk-in cooler down by the road,\u201d Sweethardt recalls. \u201cIt was a self-serve honor system most of the time. Neighbors and city folks with weekend homes in the Hill Country would drop by\u2014it was kind of like their own private shop.\u201d When that became too difficult to manage with the day-to-day workload, the family shuttered the operation amid \u201cserious backlash and some tears,\u201d Sweethardt says. \u201cOpening to the public and enabling our customers to once again purchase cheese directly from the farm is about getting back to our roots.\u201d<\/p>\n

And those roots run deep. Unlike the offspring of many agriculturalists, Sweethardt has never had the desire to leave farm life behind (despite brief stints working in tech and traveling in Mexico in her early twenties). She is, after all, her mother\u2019s daughter, and shares Sweetser\u2019s intense connection to the earth and the region.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve always wanted to literally see the sun rise and set each day, and experience the natural fluctuations and changes that occur in between\u2014as a farmer, you see, smell, and touch it all,\u201d she says. \u201cI\u2019m surrounded by my lifestyle and that\u2019s the way I like it.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Family comes first at Pure Luck Farm and Dairy in Dripping Springs, Texas<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":85,"featured_media":29709,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2595],"tags":[17746,17752,17757,3600,2872,16935,17750,17747,17764,178,855,17748,17758,17751,17753,870,17761,17249,17763,17756,3783,17759,17754,17762,17755,17760,17745,17749,17744],"coauthors":[191],"class_list":["post-29907","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-shop-talk","tag-amelia-sweethardt","tag-american-cheese-society-judging-competition","tag-anaheim-red-chili-chevre","tag-antonellis-cheese-shop","tag-austin","tag-barley-swine","tag-barton-creek","tag-ben-guyton","tag-central-market","tag-cheesemaking","tag-chevre","tag-claire-bolton","tag-cracked-black-pepper-chevre","tag-dripping-springs","tag-emmer-rye","tag-feta","tag-hopelessly-bleu","tag-houston-dairymaids","tag-juan-cruz","tag-junes-joy","tag-laurel-miller","tag-mixed-herb-chevre","tag-olamaie","tag-olivia-gonzalez","tag-pedernales-river","tag-plain-chevre","tag-pure-luck-farm-and-dairy","tag-sara-sweetser","tag-texas-hill-country"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAs Luck Would Have It: The Story of Pure Luck Farm and Dairy - 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