{"id":29909,"date":"2017-04-13T12:00:47","date_gmt":"2017-04-13T16:00:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=29909"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:50:09","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:50:09","slug":"new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda\/","title":{"rendered":"New Amsterdam: A World of Dutch Cheese Beyond Gouda"},"content":{"rendered":"

New Amsterdam is featured in our Spring 2017 issue<\/a>.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Creamy rounds of Gouda and Edam encased in shiny red and yellow wax coatings\u2014such are the lactic symbols of Holland. While these traditional cheeses account for 75 percent of the roughly 1.1 million pounds Holland produces each year, it\u2019s the other 25 percent of Dutch curds, which range from nutty farmstead wheels to soft-ripened disks, that are truly swoon-worthy. But you\u2019ll have to go to Holland for the pleasure: There are hardly enough of these handmade cheeses to go around in the small country, where per capita annual consumption is about 40 pounds.<\/p>\n

So what inspired these new creations? In 1984, the European Economic Community (EEC; also called the European Common Market) put a quota on Dutch production of cow\u2019s milk, which limited how much milk could be processed per animal. While large dairy farms were able to buy more bovines to maintain output, smaller farmers had to get creative. Many turned to crafting out-of-the-ordinary artisan cheeses for the discerning Dutch public.<\/p>\n

Another boon to this new wave of cheese culture in the Netherlands: France. Many Dutch makers looked south before launching their businesses, either traveling to the country to learn directly from experts, or staying put and studying French techniques at home. This doesn\u2019t mean that artisanal producers in Holland are turning out French taste-alikes, though. They\u2019re simply smart entrepreneurs, taking inspiration from others and using it to create their own distinctively Dutch offerings.<\/p>\n

Reinventing the Wheel<\/h2>\n

Jan Dirk van de Voort of De Groote Voort<\/a> farm in Lunteren is widely considered the king of Dutch artisan cheese\u2014and he\u2019s got the credentials to back it up. Not only is van de Voort an eighth-generation farmer, but his father introduced Jersey cows to Holland in 1976 after falling in love with the breed during a six-month work stint in the United States. When van de Voort took over De Groote Voort, the family was still sending its rich milk to the cheesemaking cooperative daily. It didn\u2019t take long for van de Voort to realize he wanted to do more, so he began producing traditional Gouda in 1981.<\/p>\n

Two decades later, though, something was wrong. \u201cMy cows would get sick, we\u2019d treat them with antibiotics, and they\u2019d get better, but the next year they\u2019d get sick again,\u201d he says. Van de Voort and his wife, Irene, stopped using antibiotics and removing calves\u2019 horns after birth and switched feed to an herb- and mineral-laced organic mixture grown on their property. Following this spirit of change, the family began crafting large, flat wheels of natural-rind cheese\u2014calling it Remeker<\/a>\u2014instead of Gouda.<\/p>\n

\"Olde

Olde Remeker<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

While these adjustments paid off in the long run and ultimately improved the milk\u2019s flavor, they were risky. The farm lost a lot of calves that were too weak to survive without medication and production dropped by 25 percent. \u201cWe almost went broke,\u201d van de Voort says.<\/p>\n

They persisted, however, by raising the price of Remeker, and emerged a huge success. In 2016, Reed Business Information\u2014a magazine publisher in the Netherlands\u2014recognized the van de Voort family, including son, Peter, as the Agricultural Entrepreneur of the Year, a title typically bestowed on big corporations.<\/p>\n

A Terroir Tale<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Brandrode

Brandrode Rund<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cLet me show you why our cheeses are so good,\u201d van de Voort says, leading me to where his 90 Jerseys\u2014the \u201chorned ladies\u201d\u2014graze. He drops to his knees and scoops up a chunk of earth. \u201cThere\u2019s probably no other pasture as rich and deep as this anywhere else in Holland,\u201d he says, pointing to the stratifications of sand mixed with soil.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not every day that a cheesemaker shows you a square of wormy dirt to explain the quality of his cheeses, but van de Voort\u2019s focus on land has made him into something of an international star. In fact, he shares his agricultural practices with dairy farmers and students from around the world.<\/p>\n

The latest innovation at De Groote Voort farm concerns its cheese rub: homemade clarified butter. \u201cWe want the outside to taste as good as the inside,\u201d van de Voort says, patting a fat round the way one would a baby\u2019s bottom. \u201cIt\u2019s much more work, but it completely changes our cheeses and our customers love it.\u201d<\/p>\n

Down the road from De Groote Voort is another cutting-edge cheesemaker, Michiel Cassuto. Cassuto always wanted dairy cattle, but when he graduated from agriculture school in 1984, he couldn\u2019t afford to purchase enough animals to make milking worthwhile under the EEC quota. Undeterred, Cassuto bought goats to pursue his cheesemaking dreams. In 2001 the quota system was abolished and Cassuto got his cows, selecting an heirloom Dutch breed called Brandrode Rund. \u201cThey\u2019re social, sturdy, and their milk is perfect for the kind of cheese I wanted to make,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Cassuto creates just one variety\u2014named after his breed of choice\u2014aged six, 12, or 18 months, depending on the wheel. That his Brandrode Rund is similar to French Beaufort is not surprising\u2014Cassuto apprenticed in Savoie with Beaufort artisans and he utilizes a copper vat acquired during his time abroad.<\/p>\n

Beyond Bovines<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Skeapswit\"

Skeapswit<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Closer to Amsterdam, in a region called Waterland, is historical Dikhoeve<\/a> farm. When the Kuiper family obtained the property in 1740, both cows and sheep were common in the region. As time passed, though, bovines became more popular. The Kuipers stayed on-trend and churned out cow\u2019s milk Gouda for generations, but when the EEC milk quota was instituted, Wilhelm Kuiper\u2014who now owns the farm with his son, Alexander\u2014turned to sheep.<\/p>\n

\u201cI wanted to find a different niche in the market,\u201d Kuiper says. \u201cWe\u2019ve been on the farm for 300 years; I knew there had been sheep here. It made sense to bring them back.\u201d<\/p>\n

Kuiper chose Fries-Zeeuwse, a robust heirloom breed, and began making both firm and soft sheep\u2019s milk cheeses in 2003. Ten years later, Kuiper hired Michael Steeghs\u2014a curd-crazy geologist who studied with famed French affineur Herv\u00e9 Mons<\/a>\u2014as an apprentice. It was Steeghs who encouraged Kuiper to break the mold even further and focus on soft cheese.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re on a farm below sea level; we\u2019re near Amsterdam,\u201d Steeghs says. \u201cMaking mountain-style cheeses is ludicrous.\u201d<\/p>\n

Dikhoeve currently produces a half-dozen cheeses, most of which are bloomy rinds made with organic milk. In addition to sheep\u2019s milk cheese, the team also crafts a few cow\u2019s milk wheels.<\/p>\n

In the northern village of Jubbega, Doetie Trinks also embraced her roots when deciding make cheese. \u201cI grew up on a farm, but my parents discouraged me [from following in their footsteps],\u201d she says. \u201cI became a medical technician instead.\u201d After working at a London laboratory, Trinks realized she was unhappy\u2014so she quit her job, packed her bags, and returned to Holland. In 2010, she bought an old farm in Eastern Friesland with her partner, Barend Put, invested in Toggenburg goats<\/a> (\u201cThey\u2019re so friendly and hardy,\u201d she says), and started making organic cheese.<\/p>\n

Like Kuiper, Trinks drew inspiration from predecessors when launching her business. \u201cMichiel [Cassuto of Bran-drood Kaas] is my guru,\u201d she says. \u201cI go my own way, but I learned everything from him.\u201d<\/p>\n

Today Trinks makes two distinct types of cheese: one small, soft, and young, and the other round, hard, and aged. Within these categories are plain and ashed varieties ranging from four ounces to three pounds. The hard wheels are aged up to one year in a basement cave\u2014a low-ceilinged space accessed by a kitchen stairwell.<\/p>\n

Trinks does it all: She milks the goats, rakes the animals\u2019 feed, and stirs, drains, and forms cheeses. She wouldn\u2019t have it any other way. \u201cI\u2019ve found my place,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

If At First You Don’t Succeed, Keep Making Cheese<\/h2>\n

A half-hour drive from Trinks\u2019 farm, near Zevenhuizen, lives a Dutch maestro of organic goat cheese. Hanneke Kuppens has been crafting small rounds of creamy, French-style ch\u00e8vre in Holland since 1988, blazing a trail for fellow innovators.<\/p>\n

\u201cI was a quiet city girl,\u201d she says. \u201cBut after studying biodynamic agriculture in college and working on a farm in France, I realized I wanted to raise animals and make goat cheese like [those] I\u2019d tasted in France.\u201d When Kuppens asked to borrow money to start a farm, though, the bank denied her. \u201cA woman who wanted to raise goats and make organic cheese? The bank said no,\u201d she says, with a wry smile. Nonplussed, Kuppens took a number of odd jobs to support her fledgling rental farm.<\/p>\n

\u201cI was scared to sell my cheeses at first because no one knew them,\u201d she says. \u201cI literally went door to door.\u201d Little by little, Kuppens created a market, and these days she can\u2019t keep up with demand. \u201cI have so many people who want my cheeses that I have to carefully choose who I sell them to,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Kuppens still works alone, growing organic feed for 40 Alpine goats, milking the animals, and making all her De Oude Streek cheeses by hand. \u201cI do get some help with the feed,\u201d she says, laughing while opening a barn door to reveal crates filled with fruits, vegetables, and bread. \u201cAn organic produce distributor gives me what can\u2019t be sold, and I feed it to the goats, along with the grasses I [grow]. That\u2019s why their milk is so sweet.\u201d<\/p>\n

Kuppens\u2019 signature wheel is Machedoux, a tender, Camembert-like cheese that took 10 years to perfect. \u201cI could sell twice as much of it,\u201d she says, \u201cbut I\u2019m happy with the way things are now.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Kobunder

Kobunder Rinse Schapenkaas<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Not all artisanal Dutch cheesemakers have a hand in every step of the process, however. Martin Schyns, a quality control worker, tinkered with wheels at home for years before quitting his job to pursue the craft full-time. But Schyns doesn\u2019t own a single animal or a cheesemaking facility. Instead, he buys organic milk directly from producers and rents time at a renovated antique dairy in historic Veenhuizen, a hamlet in central Friesland.<\/p>\n

While Schyns refers to his cheeses\u2014sold under the Kobunder brand\u2014as Gouda styles, the resemblance stops with their shape. Instead of sticking solely with cow\u2019s milk, Schyns also ripens his sheep, goat, and mixed-milk rounds in a historic peat barn originally used for storing potatoes. He rubs some of these cheeses with traditional appelstroop, Dutch apple syrup. \u201cIt encourages fermentation and helps protect the cheeses from mites and contamination,\u201d Schyns says. \u201cI\u2019m just doing what people did before me.\u201d<\/p>\n

Lacking a farm doesn\u2019t mean full freedom, though. Dutch law dictates that any cheesemaker who buys milk must pasteurize it, too, which frustrates Schyns. To bypass the regulation, he makes his few raw-milk cheeses on the farm of one of his milk suppliers. \u201c[Raw-milk cheeses are] what I really love,\u201d he says. \u201cBut I\u2019m just happy I get to make cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/h2>\n

OLDE REMEKER
\nDe Groote Voort<\/a>
\nCheesemaker: Jan Dirk van de Voort
\nLunteren, Netherlands
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk
\nThis one-year-old wheel is reminiscent of clothbound cheddar: bursting with amino acid crystals and boasting a slight walnut flavor.<\/p>\n

REMEKER PRACHT
\nDe Groote Voort
\nCheesemaker: Jan Dirk van de Voort
\nLunteren, Netherlands
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk
\nThis cheese\u2019s name\u2014pracht means \u201cglory\u201d in Dutch\u2014is fitting. Richly lactic, aged, and grainy, akin to Parmigiano, it melts in the mouth.<\/p>\n

BRANDRODE RUND
\nBrandrood Kaas<\/a>
\nCheesemaker: Michiel Cassuto
\nEde, Netherlands
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk
\nImpeccably balanced in both flavor and texture, this cheese is quite mild when young with an elastic texture and rich cream aftertaste. As it ages, sweet, nutty notes emerge with hints of brown butter.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Skeapsrond\"

Skeapsrond<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

SKEAPSROND
\nDikhoeve<\/a>
\nCheesemaker: Wilhelm Kuiper
\nRansdorp, Netherlands
\nPasteurized sheep\u2019s milk
\nThis young, bloomy rind presents a delicate, creamy flavor that finishes with a mellow tang.<\/p>\n

 
\nSKEAPSWIT
\nDikhoeve
\nCheesemaker: Wilhelm Kuiper
\nRansdorp, Netherlands
\nPasteurized sheep\u2019s milk
\nDecadently rich and milky, this feta-like hunk is aged in sea-salt brine and harbors light sheepy notes.<\/p>\n

LYTSE WITE
\nDoetie\u2019s Geiten
\nCheesemaker: Doetie Trinks
\nJubbega, Netherlands
\nRaw goat\u2019s milk
\nSmall, fresh, and delightfully wobbly, Lytse Wite makes a beautiful substitute for butter on morning toast.<\/p>\n

T\u00dbNE POER
\nDoetie\u2019s Geiten
\nCheesemaker: Doetie Trinks
\nJubbega, Netherlands
\nRaw goat\u2019s milk
\nThis firm wedge is straight-up goat goodness with subtle hints of prairie grass in the background.<\/p>\n

MACHEMAT
\nDe Oude Streek
\nCheesemaker: Hanneke Kuppens
\nZevenhuizen, Netherlands
\nRaw goat\u2019s milk
\nModeled after mushroomy Brie de Melun, this cheese is big on flavor: Brown butter notes abound on the palate.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Machetin\"

Machetin<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

MACHETIN
\nDe Oude Streek
\nCheesemaker: Hanneke Kuppens
\nZevenhuizen, Netherlands
\nRaw goat\u2019s milk
\nPure mineral, goat flavors sans tartness in a tiny, delicate package.<\/p>\n

 
\nKOBUNDER RINSE GEIT
\nKobunder Kaas<\/a>
\nCheesemaker: Martin Schyns
\nLippenhuizen, Netherlands
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nRubbed with apple syrup, this mild, milky cheese bears notes of wheat and caramelized sugar.<\/p>\n

KOBUNDER RINSE SCHAPENKAAS
\nKobunder Kaas
\nCheesemaker: Martin Schyns
\nLippenhuizen, Netherlands
\nPasteurized sheep\u2019s milk
\nFirm yet creamy, studded with protein crystals, and honey-sweet, this pale-gold round recalls Alpine styles.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dutch cheesemakers are looking beyond Edam and Gouda<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":85,"featured_media":29714,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[17413,17426,1057,17409,17421,17415,17419,17431,2251,17405,17407,17406,17416,1051,17420,15479,14193,17408,17418,17435,17434,17436,17410,17430,17422,17432,17433,17423,17417,17412,17424,17411,17425,17427,17429,17414,17428],"coauthors":[1016,1017],"class_list":["post-29909","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-brandrode-rund","tag-brandrood-kaas","tag-camembert","tag-de-groote-voort","tag-de-oude-streek","tag-dikhoeve","tag-doetie-trinks","tag-doeties-geiten","tag-dutch-cheese","tag-edam","tag-european-common-market","tag-european-economic-community","tag-fries-zeeuwse","tag-gouda","tag-hanneke-kuppens","tag-herve-mons","tag-holland","tag-jan-dirk-van-de-voort","tag-jubbega","tag-kobunder-kaas","tag-kobunder-rinse-geit","tag-kobunder-rinse-schapenkaas","tag-lunteren","tag-lytse-wite","tag-machedoux","tag-machemat","tag-machetin","tag-martin-schyns","tag-michael-steeghs","tag-michiel-cassuto","tag-olde-remeker","tag-remeker","tag-remeker-pracht","tag-skeapsrond","tag-skeapswit","tag-waterland","tag-wilhelm-kuiper"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nNew Amsterdam: A World of Dutch Cheese Beyond Gouda - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"New Amsterdam: A World of Dutch Cheese Beyond Gouda\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dutch cheesemakers are looking beyond Edam and Gouda\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-04-13T16:00:47+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-08-24T20:50:09+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/NewAmsterdam_feature.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Photographer Manuel Krug, Susan Herrmann Loomis\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Photographer Manuel Krug, Susan Herrmann Loomis\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"11 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-amsterdam-world-dutch-cheese-beyond-gouda\/\",\"name\":\"New Amsterdam: A World of Dutch Cheese Beyond Gouda - 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