{"id":29992,"date":"2017-04-07T12:00:10","date_gmt":"2017-04-07T16:00:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=29992"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:51:26","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:51:26","slug":"family-pies-father-daughter-team-nycs-don-antonio-starita","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/family-pies-father-daughter-team-nycs-don-antonio-starita\/","title":{"rendered":"Family Pies: The Father-Daughter Team Behind NYC’s Don Antonio by Starita"},"content":{"rendered":"

Family Pies is featured in our Spring 2017 issue<\/a>. Click here<\/a> to jump down to the Don Antonio by Starita recipes.<\/em><\/h4>\n

When Italian-born Roberto Caporuscio first visited the United States as a 24-year-old bovine genetics salesman, he \u201cfell in love with it immediately,\u201d he says. \u201cThe freedom, the opportunities!\u201d Little did he know that more than 30 years later, he\u2019d preside over a Neapolitan pizza empire in New York City, his adopted home.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a life quite different from his childhood. Caporuscio, today one of New York\u2019s most respected pizzaioli<\/em> (pizza makers), grew up on a dairy farm in the town of Pontinia, about 55 miles south of Rome. As a boy, he made fresh mozzarella and caciotta<\/em> (a semi-soft farmstead cheese) and regularly woke up in the wee hours to help his mother bake bread. These formative food experiences led Caporuscio, years later, to move to Naples and learn the craft of pizza at age 38.<\/p>\n

He trained with master pizzaioli, observing technique and coming to appreciate the importance of using authentic, top-quality ingredients and equipment when producing Neapolitan pies: 00 flour made in Italy (very finely ground flour), San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte<\/em> or buffalo\u2019s milk mozzarella, and a wood-fired oven. \u201cNeapolitan pizza done right should be very light,\u201d Caporuscio says. \u201cAnd the toppings should not be over-powering\u2014there is a balance of sauce, cheese, and crust.\u201d<\/p>\n

Being trained in Naples or by someone from the city\u2014the birthplace of pizza\u2014is advantageous for a pizzaiolo, he adds. \u201cPizza is inside the culture [there]\u2014it\u2019s part of the lifestyle. It\u2019s still the same as it was over 300 years ago. I wanted to help people understand that.\u201d<\/p>\n

To that end, Caporuscio moved to the US in 1999 and opened highly successful pizzerias in Pittsburgh and New Jersey, then spent a year training pizzaioli and restaurateurs around the country. In March 2009 he opened Kest\u00e9 Pizza & Vino<\/a> in Manhattan, spurring on the Big Apple\u2019s burgeoning Neapolitan pizza craze and winning critical acclaim\u2014New York Magazine<\/em> deemed his pizzas number one in the city that year. Staying true to his roots, he made fresh mozzarella and burrata daily (the mozzarella di bufala is imported from Caserta).<\/p>\n

\n
\"Giorgia

Giorgia Caporuscio works with dough<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

As US president of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani<\/a>, an Italian organization dedicated to preserving pizza-making traditions, Caporuscio also began teaching intensive courses in the art at Kest\u00e9. His then-19-year-old daughter, Giorgia, who had grown up in Italy and had just arrived in New York to learn English, spent much of her free time at the restaurant.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe employees would tease me and say, ‘You don\u2019t know how to make pizza and you are the daughter of the master?!’\u201d she recalls. Eventually, the ribbing prompted Giorgia to study with her father, and she discovered a passion and a talent that mirrored his.<\/p>\n

Giorgia returned to Italy for further training with one of Caporuscio\u2019s mentors, Antonio Starita, at his renowned Pizzeria Starita a Materdei<\/a> in Naples. \u201cEvery day, they make almost 1,000 pizzas, like a machine,\u201d she says. \u201cIt was amazing to see it and to learn there, because now I can recreate it here in the US.\u201d<\/p>\n

When Caporuscio and Starita teamed up to open Don Antonio by Starita<\/a>\u2014a pizzeria boasting a menu of more than 60 pies\u2014in midtown Manhattan in 2012, Caporuscio made Giorgia head pizzaiola. The following year, she won first place in the Classic Pizza category at Naples\u2019 prestigious Caputo Cup competition\u2014at that time, the youngest woman (and second ever) to do so\u2014with the Montanara Starita, a signature Don Antonio creation that is lightly fried then oven-finished.<\/p>\n

\u201cI chose to make the montanara because it is one of the oldest pizzas from Naples,\u201d she says. \u201cIn the classic movie L\u2019Oro di Napoli<\/em> (The Gold of Naples<\/em>), Sophia Loren makes the montanara.\u201d While Italian women have long prepared pies at home, Giorgia adds, a female pizza maker working in a restaurant remains a rarity.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf I did this job in Italy, people would look at me like I\u2019m an alien,\u201d she says. \u201cIt\u2019s still considered a man\u2019s job. Here, people appreciate it more, or they don\u2019t notice.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Giorgia

Giorgia and Roberto Caporuscio<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The newest venture for the father-daughter duo is a third Kest\u00e9 location, a 120-seat restaurant and cooking school replete with eight ovens that opened earlier this year in New York\u2019s Financial District\u2014hot on the heels of the second Kest\u00e9 debut in Brooklyn last December. The menu includes pizzas that showcase local ingredients from various Italian regions\u2014and unsurprisingly, formaggio<\/em> is a top priority.<\/p>\n

\u201cEach cheese has a story behind it, a legend,\u201d Caporuscio says. Among his favorites: Sicilian Piacentinu, a sheep\u2019s milk cheese made with saffron, purportedly to cure a royal\u2019s depression in the 11th century; and Gorgonzola, a \u201cmistake\u201d according to legend, as its creator forgot about the cheese while spending time with his love.<\/p>\n

Curds also come into play at the school, where Caporuscio teaches students how to craft mozzarella and burrata. Giorgia, now 26, helms the kitchen and leads courses, too.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m very lucky in my life\u2014it\u2019s incredible to work with my child,\u201d Caporuscio says. Though an icon in the pizza community, he keeps his success in perspective.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s just pizza,\u201d he says, smiling. \u201cIt\u2019s annoying sometimes, these pizza makers who think they are celebrities. I say all the time, we don\u2019t save lives, we\u2019re not engineers, we\u2019re not the president. We just make pizza, a simple product. I don\u2019t forget where I come from, and I\u2019m still the same guy.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Recipes from Don Antonio by Starita<\/h1>\n

Bresaola Salad<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"Bresaola<\/a>

Bresaola Salad<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Air-dried, salt-cured bresaola\u2014with its mild flavor and deep garnet hue\u2014is a lean, striking alternative to prosciutto.<\/p>\n

\n

Arancini<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"arancini\"<\/a>

Arancini<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Roberto Caporuscio’s fried rice balls are crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside.<\/p>\n

\n

Neapolitan Pizza Dough<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"Neapolitan<\/a>

Neapolitan Pizza Dough<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The one- to two-day resting period for the dough helps create the chewy, puffy crust that’s a hallmark of Neapolitan pizza.<\/p>\n

\n

Fraticelli<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"Fraticelli\"<\/a>

Fraticelli<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Sharp provolone-and-black-pepper filling gives these stuffed fried dough triangles a kick.<\/p>\n

\n

Montanara Starita<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"Montanara<\/a>

Montanara Starita<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

To make this popular Neapolitan street food, the dough is flash-fried, then topped and finished in the oven for a super-satisfying\u2014but not overly rich\u2014snack.<\/p>\n

\n

Quattro Formaggi Pizza<\/a><\/h2>\n
\"Quattro<\/a>

Quattro Formaggi Pizza<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Roberto Caporuscio eschews frequently used Gorgonzola in favor of a blend of five, not four, cheeses for this rich, well-balanced pizza.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Father-daughter team Roberto and Giorgia Caporuscio are Neapolitan pizza champions<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":85,"featured_media":29516,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2595],"tags":[17546,1593,17544,17551,17541,17538,17548,17534,17540,3030,17553,17545,1176,17542,17550,14540,17549,983,15771,2711,17552,5160,17543,4047,17536,17547,17537,17554,2537,17535,17539],"coauthors":[579,328],"class_list":["post-29992","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-shop-talk","tag-antonio-starita","tag-arancini","tag-associazione-pizzaiuoli-napoletani","tag-bresaola-salad","tag-buffalos-milk","tag-caciotta","tag-caputo-cup","tag-don-antonio-by-starita","tag-fior-di-latte","tag-formaggio","tag-fraticelli","tag-giorgia","tag-gorgonzola","tag-keste-pizza-vino","tag-loro-di-napoli","tag-manhattan","tag-montanara-starita","tag-mozzarella","tag-naples","tag-neapolitan-pizza","tag-neapolitan-pizza-dough","tag-new-jersey","tag-new-york-magazine","tag-pittsburgh","tag-pizzaiolo","tag-pizzeria-starita-a-materdei","tag-pontinia","tag-quattro-formaggi-pizza","tag-recipes","tag-roberto-caporuscio","tag-san-marzano"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFamily Pies: The Father-Daughter Team Behind NYC's Don Antonio by Starita - 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