{"id":30247,"date":"2017-04-20T12:00:57","date_gmt":"2017-04-20T16:00:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30247"},"modified":"2021-02-26T16:02:33","modified_gmt":"2021-02-26T21:02:33","slug":"suau-silk-oriol-de-montbru-formatges-montbru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/suau-silk-oriol-de-montbru-formatges-montbru\/","title":{"rendered":"Centerfold: Oriol de Montbr\u00fa"},"content":{"rendered":"

Suau as Silk is featured in our Spring 2017 issue<\/a>.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

“There was this guy selling buffalo cheese, and I was like, what?\u201d recalls importer Michele Buster of the first time she tried Suau de B\u00fafala<\/a> on a sunny morning at a little market in Madrid\u2019s Puerta del Sol. \u201cIt was so creamy, lactic, and fantastic. It stopped me in my tracks.\u201d Buster didn\u2019t hesitate. \u201cI said: I want this cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

After the shopkeeper scrawled down a phone number, Buster searched feverishly for the standout wheel\u2014 a journey that would lead her 370 miles away to a hillside farm near the Catalan village of Moi\u00e0. That\u2019s where I found myself on a summer afternoon five years later, following cheesemaker Oriol Ant\u00fanez on a path winding through scraggly bushes, pine groves, and patchwork pasture.<\/p>\n

\u201cI like to walk alone in the woods,\u201d Ant\u00fanez tells me as we return to his family\u2019s farmhouse after visiting their goats. Though only in his mid-30s, the cheesemaker shows a marked seriousness and pride in ancestral land and rural traditions. \u201cI\u2019ve always lived on the farm,\u201d he says. \u201cI don\u2019t like to live in town.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Oriol

Oriol Art\u00fanez with a wheel of his namesake cheese<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Growing up, Ant\u00fanez was inundated by cheese. His parents, Pere Ant\u00fanez and Inmaculada Llonch, began raising goats in the mid-1980s and experimenting with cheesemaking in their kitchen. Eventually the couple built a small production facility in their old stone home, in a cavernous room carved into a hillside that once housed the cistern. The past lingers; while the Ant\u00fanezes haven\u2019t officially made cheese here in a while\u2014six years ago, the family moved production to a much larger, modern facility on the outskirts of Moi\u00e0\u2014a lactic aroma seems to have seeped into the walls. \u201cYou can smell it, no?\u201d Ant\u00fanez asks as we step inside.<\/p>\n

Sometimes Ant\u00fanez sneaks away from Formatges Montbr\u00fa<\/a>, the family company he runs alongside Pere and Inmaculada, and retreats to the former cheesemaking room to invent recipes. Fascinated with the Alpine tradition of making cheese in mountain huts, he\u2019s been playing with raw goat\u2019s milk cheese modeled after Gruy\u00e8re<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s special for me to make cheese here,\u201d Ant\u00fanez says, passing me his cell phone. In the photo on the screen, he\u2019s stirring curds in a small pot over a gas stove, a pile of stones waiting to press them after they\u2019re molded.<\/p>\n

\u201cI love to experiment,\u201d he says, puffed with pride. \u201cI love to make new things.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ant\u00fanez\u2019s youthful flair for innovation is common in Catalonia, a linguistically and culturally distinct autonomous region in northeast Spain. Between 1939 and 1975, Spanish dictator Francisco Franco\u2019s aggressive rule all but stamped out production of traditional cheeses in the region in favor of uninspired industrial commodities. When Ant\u00fanez\u2019s parents began crafting cheese in the 1980s, small-scale cheesemaking had just started to bounce back. It\u2019s grown ever since\u2014and considering how many long-standing regional varieties were lost, cheeses produced in Catalonia today tend to be more original and varied. \u201cIn some regions of Spain, there are DOP [Denominaci\u00f3n de Origen]-certified cheeses, and so everybody in those regions makes the same cheese,\u201d Ant\u00fanez says. \u201cWhere I live, we have no DOP cheese. So every factory likes to do special cheeses, not the same as others.\u201d While Spain and other European countries face an aging farming population, most of Ant\u00fanez\u2019s Catalan cheesemaking peers are young like him.<\/p>\n

Barcelona native Enric Canut, a dairy consultant and author of The 100 Cheeses of Spain<\/em> (Salvat Editores, 2000), agrees. He believes that Catalan cheesemaking has benefited particularly from \u201cneo-rurals.\u201d This highly educated generation\u2014which includes Ant\u00fanez, who studied at universities in Spain and France\u2014\u201clooks for a new way of life in cheesemaking,\u201d Canut says. And, because of this new entrepreneurial energy, \u201cpeople here have learned quickly that they need to think hard, be unique, and make really good cheeses to stay competitive,\u201d adds Buster, the importer and Forever Cheese<\/a> co-founder.<\/p>\n

Indeed, this creative mindset spurred Ant\u00fanez to venture into unfamiliar territory.<\/p>\n

Understanding Buffalo<\/h2>\n

In 2010, Ant\u00fanez shared a bit of news with his father: Some Italian buffalo farmers had recently settled in the grassy Aiguamolls de l\u2019Empord\u00e0 Natural Park nearby\u2014along with 1,200 of their animals. As it turns out, Pere and Inmaculada had been traveling to India regularly for many years to visit two girls they\u2019d sponsored through a charitable organization. \u201cMy father, he knew these animals from his trips,\u201d Ant\u00fanez says. \u201cSo he explained to me that in India, people drink buffalo milk.\u201d Armed with this information, Ant\u00fanez began buying buffalo milk from Italian farmer Llu\u00eds Mont.<\/p>\n

\"One

One of the buffalo that supply the milk for Oriol de Montbr\u00fa grazes in Catalonia<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Neither an education in dairy science nor a life surrounded by cheesemaking prepared Ant\u00fanez for the trials to come. With its high fat and protein content, buffalo\u2019s milk didn\u2019t behave like the sheep\u2019s and goat\u2019s milk he was used to. When he finally developed the recipe for a non-pressed pasteurized-milk wheel called Suau de B\u00fafala in 2011\u2014which sprouted a blue-gray rind similar to that of similar to that of traditional Catalan garrotxa<\/a> as it aged four to five months \u2014Ant\u00fanez faced another obstacle. Because the bovines are rare in Spain, consumers shied away from their unfamiliar milk.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey didn\u2019t know what a buffalo was, what it looks like,\u201d he says, recalling the many batches he had to throw away or feed to farm animals. \u201cThat\u2019s the problem with doing new things,\u201d he says, pausing. \u201cWell, no\u2014it\u2019s not a problem. It\u2019s a challenge. If you do something new, you need to help people understand it.\u201d<\/p>\n

As tasting gradually led to understanding, Suau de B\u00fafala sales picked up. Ant\u00fanez attributes its new fame to buffalo milk\u2019s surprisingly gentle, lingering qualities. \u201cWhen you put it in your mouth,\u201d he says, \u201cit\u2019s not too intense . . . afterwards, you taste it slowly.\u201d<\/p>\n

Exporting Oriol de Montbr\u00fa<\/h2>\n

It was the smoothness\u2014or suau<\/em>, in Catalan \u2014that won Michele Buster over in Madrid and left her clamoring to import the cheese to the United States.<\/p>\n

However, it wouldn\u2019t be as simple as putting Suau de B\u00fafala on a boat; the small wheels aged too quickly for a transatlantic journey, diminishing creaminess. \u201cImporting is often trial and error,\u201d Buster explains. \u201cWe have to figure out how the cheese is going to age, how it\u2019s going to behave, if it\u2019s going to be the same way it was when I found it. It becomes a collaboration.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Young

Young wheels of Oriol de Montbr\u00fa are brined<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Tweaks began. First Ant\u00fanez added an extra step to the recipe: Now he presses newly formed rounds to eliminate extra moisture, resulting in a drier, hardier cheese. He also increased wheel size from two to three pounds, which slows aging and preserves creaminess. Finally, sensing that \u201csuau\u201d isn\u2019t the easiest word for Americans to pronounce, Buster renamed the cheese. \u201cOriol is his name, obviously,\u201d she says, \u201cand it so happens that the patron saint of Catalonia is also Oriol.\u201d Just like that, Oriol de Montbr\u00fa\u2014 a version of Suau de B\u00fafala crafted specifically for the US\u2014was born.<\/p>\n

Boasting a musty blue-gray rind surrounding a lovely cream line that encases a dense, bone-white paste, the wheel is absolutely striking. Initial aromas include unsalted butter, stone cellar, and pebbles pulled from a stream, while flavor builds slowly\u2014lactic, yogurt-fresh, and slightly tangy, with hints of peas and edamame\u2014then lingers.<\/p>\n

The success of cheeses such as Oriol de Montbr\u00fa stateside has helped Formatges Montbr\u00fa grow at home. Now the operation is expanding into the shuttered discotheque next door, giving Ant\u00fanez more space to dream up additions to the creamery\u2019s current line of 20-plus goat\u2019s, sheep\u2019s, and buffalo\u2019s milk cheeses. But he has another goal, something quite different: to open a shop and visitors\u2019 center in the family farm\u2019s old make room, where folks can learn about farmstead cheese production.<\/p>\n

With a rind that reflects regional microflora and a paste that signifies uniqueness, Oriol de Montbr\u00fa embodies the dual nature of its namesake: Ant\u00fanez is both the guardian of family legacy and an enterprising wunderkind. \u201cWe\u2019re growing so fast right now,\u201d he says. \u201cWe have more machines, more space. But we never lose respect for the process.\u201d In that sense, he continues, \u201cwe are making cheese like we did the first day.\u201d<\/p>\n

Why So Blue?<\/h2>\n
\n
\"The

The mold growing on Oriol de Montbr\u00fa wheels is gently patted down during maturation<\/small><\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Thanks to its splotchy, fuzzy, gray-black-blue exterior, Oriol de Montbr\u00fa would look right at home in a mountainside boulder field. Cheesemaker Oriol Ant\u00fanez believes it\u2019s created by a combination of Penicillium roqueforti (which forms veins in blue cheese), Penicillium candidum (the white fuzz on Brie and Camembert), and mucor (a mold that grows on tommes in the French alps). But since he doesn\u2019t control growth by adding spores\u2014wheels are colonized by molds present in the aging cave\u2014it\u2019s difficult to pinpoint the exact rind makeup.<\/p>\n

Clues lie in one of Catalonia\u2019s most traditional cheeses: garrotxa, which was essentially wiped out by the end of Francisco Franco\u2019s regime. Yet in the early 1980s, some intrepid young couples enlisted Catalan dairy consultant Enric Canut and considered oral history to revive the beleaguered local goat cheese.<\/p>\n

While aging wheels, they noticed an alarming development: a mysterious blue-gray coating on the rind. \u201cIt was unique, dark, and with a velvety texture,\u201d Canut recalls. They tried washing it off, but it always returned. Finally, an elderly villager offered a revelation: This was the mold that grew on all aged cheeses she remembered from childhood. That feared fuzz is, in fact, an aspect of regional terroir, \u201ca spontaneous mold that grows freely,\u201d Canut says.<\/p>\n

Back at Formatges Montbr\u00fa, Ant\u00fanez demonstrates how workers gently pat down Oriol de Montbr\u00fa rounds weekly with a cloth, never scrubbing mold off or wetting it. The cloth helps spread spores to new wheels, which will sprout the characteristic fuzzy blend that gives the cheese\u2014like Catalan cohort garrotxa\u2014a delicate sweetness, mustiness, and kick of blue spice.<\/p>\n

Where to Buy<\/h2>\n

CALIFORNIA<\/h4>\n

Rainbow Grocery<\/a>
\n1745 Folsom St.
\nSan Francisco, CA
\n415.863.0620<\/a><\/p>\n

Venissimo Cheese<\/a>
\n789 W. Harbor Dr.
\nSan Diego, CA
\n619.358.9081<\/a>; and other locations<\/p>\n

FLORIDA<\/h4>\n

Mazzaro\u2019s Italian Market<\/a>
\n2909 22nd Ave. N.
\nSt. Petersburg, FL
\n727.321.2400<\/a><\/p>\n

LOUISIANA<\/h4>\n

St. James Cheese Company<\/a>
\n641 Tchoupitoulas St.
\nNew Orleans, LA
\n504.304.1485<\/a><\/p>\n

5004 Prytania St.
\nNew Orleans, LA
\n504.899.4737<\/a><\/p>\n

MASSACHUSETTS<\/h4>\n

Berkshire Co-op Market<\/a>
\n42 Bridge St.
\nGreat Barrington, MA
\n413.528.9697<\/a><\/p>\n

NEW YORK<\/h4>\n

Zabar\u2019s<\/a>
\n2245 Broadway
\nNew York, NY
\n212.787.2000<\/a><\/p>\n

PENNSYLVANIA<\/h4>\n

Di Bruno Bros.<\/a>
\n930 S. Ninth St.
\nPhiladelphia, PA
\n215.922.2876<\/a>; and other locations<\/p>\n

TEXAS<\/h4>\n

Antonelli\u2019s Cheese Shop<\/a>
\n4220 Duval St.
\nAustin, TX
\n512.531.9610<\/a><\/p>\n

Houston Dairymaids<\/a>
\n2201 Airline Dr.
\nHouston, TX
\n713.880.4800<\/a><\/p>\n

WASHINGTON<\/h4>\n

DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine<\/a>
\n1435 First Ave.
\nSeattle, WA
\n800.873.6685<\/a><\/p>\n

Pairing Notes<\/h2>\n

Seek out fruity, piquant, and acidic accompaniments to balance Oriol de Montbr\u00fa\u2019s milky voluptuousness: Spanish quince paste (membrillo), sweet-tart blood-orange preserves, and strawberry-balsamic compote all fit the bill. Off the cheese plate, \u201cthere are really cool things you can do with Oriol,\u201d Buster says. \u201cIt\u2019s wonderful shaved onto a salad, or you can bread it and fry it\u2014I\u2019ve even seen chefs make ice cream with it.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Boasting arresting creaminess, buffalo’s milk Oriol de Montbr\u00fa marks a new chapter in Catalan cheese<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":29715,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[424],"tags":[17242,3600,17241,17247,120,1981,17238,14901,178,17250,8758,17239,17240,2116,17237,1560,1873,851,17249,17236,985,17243,17232,17245,17230,17233,17234,17244,17235,4166,1028,17246,17231,15298,17248],"coauthors":[385,290],"class_list":["post-30247","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-centerfold","tag-aiguamolls-de-lemporda","tag-antonellis-cheese-shop","tag-barcelona","tag-berkshire-co-op-market","tag-buffalo","tag-buffalo-milk-cheese","tag-catalonia","tag-cheese-history","tag-cheesemaking","tag-delaurenti-specialty-food-wine","tag-di-bruno-bros","tag-dop","tag-enric-canut","tag-forever-cheese","tag-formatges-montbru","tag-garrotxa","tag-goat-milk-cheese","tag-gruyere","tag-houston-dairymaids","tag-inmaculada-llonch","tag-italy","tag-lluis-mont","tag-madrid","tag-mazzaros-italian-market","tag-michele-buster","tag-moia","tag-oriol-antunez","tag-oriol-de-montbru","tag-pere-antunez","tag-rainbow-grocery","tag-spain","tag-st-james-cheese-company","tag-suau-de-bufala","tag-venissimo-cheese","tag-zabars"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCenterfold: Oriol de Montbr\u00fa - 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