{"id":30403,"date":"2017-05-03T12:00:18","date_gmt":"2017-05-03T16:00:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30403"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:47:57","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:47:57","slug":"one-bite-ahead-makes-food-trendy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/one-bite-ahead-makes-food-trendy\/","title":{"rendered":"One Bite Ahead: What Makes a Food Trendy?"},"content":{"rendered":"

One Bite Ahead is featured in our Cheese+ 2017 issue<\/a>.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Picture polyester pantsuits, lava lamps, shag carpeting\u2014and right in the middle of it all, a pot of bubbling cheese. Is there an image that better captures 1970s nostalgia? Food fads have existed since at least the Pleistocene era\u2014when humans helped chase the woolly mammoth into extinction\u2014but among modern culinary crazes, fondue is king. It\u2019s \u201cthe great mid-century American food trend,\u201d says David Sax, journalist and author of The Tastemakers<\/em><\/a> (PublicAffairs, 2014).<\/p>\n

My quest to unravel the many forces shaping our collective appetite began with a seemingly simple question: Where do food trends begin? Fondue seemed a good starting point. Sure enough, beneath the melty cheese were trendsetting forces at work. In my head it\u2019s rather James Bond: Men sitting around a long table in a gilded room, faces obscured by darkness, plotting a path to global fondue domination. Indeed, it was the Swiss Cheese Union\u2014a cartel that controlled cheese production in Switzerland for decades\u2014that intentionally jumpstarted the fondue fanaticism that ultimately swept our nation.<\/p>\n

In Switzerland, there were always plenty of wedges and wheels to sell. But unlike French diners, for example, Swiss and American consumers didn\u2019t eat a cheese course with every meal, explains Dominik Flammer, author of Swiss Cheese: Origins, Traditional Cheese Varieties and New Creations <\/em>(Shoppenkochen, 2010). To promote consumption, the union decided to push a little-known dish from the Alps, made entirely of molten curds.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey invested a lot of money in marketing campaigns for fondue worldwide,\u201d Flammer explains. \u201cAnd the United States was a very important market for them.\u201d It worked: After debuting at the New York World\u2019s Fair in 1964, the dish oozed its way into American restaurants and homes from coast to coast.<\/p>\n

Becoming Trendy<\/h2>\n

Is an aggressive marketing campaign the key to creating a food obsession? Perhaps in the past, says Dana McCauley, food trend consultant and CEO of Toronto-based startup incubator Food Starter<\/a>. Traditionally companies pushed trends to market by advertising, pitching journalists, and coercing cookbook authors to seduce the masses. Today, however, trends can start with people. \u201cA person with an Instagram account can [roll] a pebble down a mountain, and it can snowball,\u201d McCauley says. \u201cThat wasn\u2019t the case 20 years ago.\u201d<\/p>\n

Take the Cronut<\/a>. Sure, we\u2019ll give New York chef Dominique Ansel props for creativity\u2014but would his donut-croissant mashup have exploded as it did without the web? Before he even released the pastry in May 2013, a blog post about the Cronut went viral. By the third sales day, a line of 100 people snaked around the block. This happened around the time Instagram was becoming popular. Soon enough, photo feeds were plastered with the flaky disks.<\/p>\n

Not only does this overnight celebrity illustrate the fickleness of modern appetites\u2014it shows how arbitrary trends can be. Post-Cronut, Ansel continued to pursue hybrid-pastry glory, inventing the Waffogato, the Cookie Shot, and the Frozen S\u2019more. But none of his newer creations ever quite caught on.<\/p>\n

\u201cCreating a food trend is kind of like creating a hit song,\u201d Sax says. \u201cThere\u2019s no formula to it. You can try and try, and it just doesn\u2019t work.\u201d<\/p>\n

Complicating all this are influencers aplenty vying for our attention. In one corner, imaginative chefs introduce new concepts to the mainstream. Before Ren\u00e9 Redzepi started scouring Danish countryside for mosses and seaweeds to stock Noma<\/a>\u2019s kitchen, few of us were eating foraged foods; if David Chang hadn\u2019t launched Momofuku<\/a>, we might not be stuffed with pork buns and ramen today. Then there are cutting-edge scientists who enhance flavors via chemical engineering and conceive new hybrid plants and meat substitutes. Meanwhile health evangelists develop diets\u2014from South Beach to Atkins to Paleo\u2014that outline what not<\/em> to eat to achieve slimness, strength, and longevity (or so they claim).<\/p>\n

\"food<\/center>Yet there\u2019s one thing that seems to unite all successful trends: They strike a chord at the right cultural moment. The Cronut emerged three weeks after a Wall Street Journal<\/em> headline proclaimed the \u201cGourmet Cupcake Market is Crashing,\u201d<\/a> capitalizing on our collective cupcake weariness. Even fondue\u2019s rise in the 1970s was aided by migration to the suburbs, where larger houses had ample space for kitchen appliances and dinner parties.<\/p>\n

Eager to understand these myriad forces, companies devote substantial resources to staying ahead of the curve. That may mean hiring someone like Christine Couvelier, CEO of consulting company Culinary Concierge<\/a>. I asked her how she’s able to spot trends as they emerge. \u201cBeing externally focused,\u201d Couvelier says. \u201cKeeping my eyes open and my taste buds willing to try new things.\u201d She travels to food shows worldwide, cooks with chefs, tours farmers\u2019 markets and gourmet shops, and reflects constantly on everything she\u2019s seen.<\/p>\n

Another forecasting challenge: Trendiness straddles a line between a consumer\u2019s desire to fit in and his or her desire for novelty. The moment a fad crosses the threshold into widespread popular culture, it\u2019s the beginning of the end. By the time Dunkin\u2019 Donuts released the Croissant Donut, for example, social media-savvy foodies had already moved on to cake pops and matcha macarons.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s almost like you only know it\u2019s a trend after it\u2019s happened,\u201d Sax says. Luckier crazes might lose their buzz but find a permanent place in our cupboards (i.e. olive oil). Others fade into the background or become punchlines (sorry, Cronut).<\/p>\n

Can Fondue Make a Comeback?<\/h2>\n

To me, a child of the 80s, fondue was always more symbolic of a dusty Goodwill shelf than a dinner party. That is, until I moved to Switzerland\u2014where the iconic dish still reigns supreme\u2014and tasted it for the first time. Smothering crispy bread crusts in an amalgamation of the world\u2019s best cheeses and scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pot, I was instantly hooked. Since then I\u2019ve gone to great lengths\u2014working in a cheese cave, scaling mountains to high-altitude restaurants, even marrying a Swiss guy\u2014just to eat more of it.<\/p>\n

After all of my research, I began to wonder if trends ever die, really. Selfishly I wanted to know if there\u2019s any hope for a stateside resurgence of my favorite Swiss meal.<\/p>\n

\u201cSorry, Molly, no,\u201d McCauley says. \u201cIt\u2019s like the \u201967 Mustang your uncle keeps in the garage and brings out once a year. You\u2019re going to do it every once in a while, because it\u2019s retro. But no, I don\u2019t think it will come back.\u201d<\/p>\n

Until she sees a fondue restaurant with lines out the door, McCauley is skeptical. Plus, she says, buzzy foods typically fit into broader health trends, and fondue contains two of the ingredients that folks eschew most often these days: bread and dairy.<\/p>\n

Despite his book title\u2019s discouraging subtitle (Why We\u2019re . . . Fed Up with Fondue<\/em>), Sax is slightly<\/em> more optimistic. First, he assures me that I\u2019m not crazy. \u201cWhen a food trend dies,\u201d Sax says, \u201cthat doesn\u2019t necessarily mean that it\u2019s any less tasty.\u201d And there are a few things that reinvigorate trends, he adds. One is culinary ingenuity or the reinvention of a familiar dish. \u201cWhat can you do to fondue to make it different, to make it unique and relevant to the way people eat today, the types of flavors and ingredients they want?\u201d Sax asks.<\/p>\n

Denise Purcell, the Specialty Food Association<\/a>\u2019s resident trend expert, tells me that people are craving wellness drinks with apple cider vinegar, DIY kits, and chickpea crisps currently. According to McCauley, it\u2019s cauliflower and Korean cuisine. And Couvelier points to turmeric, mocktail mixology, and a waffle-everything movement.<\/p>\n

Anyone for gochujang-and-turmeric fondue with chickpea crackers, DIY waffles, and pickled cauliflower for dipping, washed down with an alcohol-free, apple cider vinegar tipple?<\/p>\n

OK, maybe not. But there\u2019s hope for forgotten foods yet, as certain cultural shifts encourage nostalgia. When people feel confident (if the economy is strong, for example), they\u2019re more willing to try bold new flavors, Sax says. In times of uncertainty, they revert to comforting foods.<\/p>\n

So on the days I\u2019m feeling sentimental, I\u2019ll mix up the Alpine wedges, light the fondue pot, post a pic on Instagram, and hope you\u2019ll join me. If not, I\u2019ll still find solace in all that gooey goodness.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Can fondue stage a comeback? Food-trend life cycles reveal the fickle nature of our shared cravings<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":30031,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[590],"tags":[15311,15322,15316,15323,15314,12733,15312,15324,15317,998,15315,15310,15320,15319,15318,13743,4060,15313,15321],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-30403","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ruminations","tag-cheese-trends","tag-christine-couvelier","tag-cronut","tag-culinary-concierge","tag-dana-mccauley","tag-david-chang","tag-david-sax","tag-denise-purcell","tag-dominique-ansel","tag-fondue","tag-food-starter","tag-food-trends","tag-momofuku","tag-noma","tag-rene-redzepi","tag-specialty-food-association","tag-swiss-cheese-union","tag-the-tastemakers","tag-wall-street-journal"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOne Bite Ahead: What Makes a Food Trendy? - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/one-bite-ahead-makes-food-trendy\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"One Bite Ahead: What Makes a Food Trendy?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Can fondue stage a comeback? 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