{"id":3054,"date":"2014-01-20T19:44:49","date_gmt":"2014-01-21T00:44:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=3054"},"modified":"2014-04-15T07:21:53","modified_gmt":"2014-04-15T11:21:53","slug":"real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Real Cheese Product\u2014Bunnies and Buzzwords: Annie’s Homegrown, 100% Real Cheese!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hold on to your blue boxes and your viscous yellow liquids! This blog series will take you on a wild ride through the history, politics, science, and culture of processed cheese, including the origins of factory cheese, the rise of James L. Kraft, and the miracle of milk protein concentrate.<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

We\u2019ve bonded a lot over these past weeks, readers\u2014Remember filled cheese<\/a>? What a hoot!\u2014and because we\u2019re so close now, I\u2019m going to be frank with you: \u201cNatural\u201d means nothing. \u201cOrganic\u201d is a buzzword. And despite its cute bunnies, hand-drawn labels, and peace-symbol pastas, Annie\u2019s Macaroni and Cheese (the all-around champ of feel-good, eco-organic insta-meals) is still processed. Despite the warm feelings you may have toward the bunny on the box, Annie\u2019s is\u2014and always has been\u2014a business trying to court consumers with a fashionable, desirable, and near-impeccable brand-image. This is its story. (Cue Law & Order<\/cite> double-tone<\/a>.)<\/p>\n

\"smartfood_white_cheddar_cheese_flavored_popcorn\"<\/a>The story of those rabbit-approved boxes of (let\u2019s just admit it) delicious, delicious macaroni and cheese finds its roots in the \u201980s. Annie Withey, a University of Connecticut grad with a degree in English and the daughter of two teachers, was looking for a way to showcase a new and crazy invention dreamed up by her then-husband Andrew Martin and his business partner: a resealable, disposable plastic bag. Annie began experimenting with different kinds of foods and ingredients in her Boston apartment, and in 1985 she hit the jackpot: after stirring together on her stove some white cheddar cheese, whey, buttermilk, and salt, she was able to create a white cheddar cheese powder. Annie sprinkled this on some popcorn, poured it into the resealable plastic bag, and voila: Smartfood Popcorn was born. Just like James Lewis Kraft, who spent hours in his own<\/em>apartment perfecting his \u201ceternal cheese\u201d recipe, so too did Annie Withey draw upon her entrepreneurial spirit to create a food that consumers would flock to buy.<\/p>\n

And buy they did\u2014Smartfood sales skyrocketed and stores couldn\u2019t even keep it in stock. Four years later, Annie and her partners accepted a $15 million bid for the company from Frito-Lay, netting more than a million bucks for her troubles. This might have been the end of the wonder white cheese powder, but Annie drew upon the drive of her foodie forefathers and came up with an even bigger idea: What if she used that same cheese powder for mac and cheese instead of popcorn? Annie bought a box of Kraft mac and cheese, threw away that flavor packet, used her own mix, and liked her creation so much that she founded Annie\u2019s Homegrown in 1989.<\/p>\n

Annie\u2019s was tapping into the new and powerful green, organic zeitgeist. As Whole Foods Market was going public, Annie\u2019s Homegrown was honing its message. It turned to advertising agency Thomas J. Paul, Inc.\u2014which had already worked for corporate behemoths like M&M, Ritz, and (surprise, surprise) Kraft\u2014to create an adorable bunny that would comfort customers with the promise of \u201ctotally natural\u201d foods. When Annie\u2019s Homegrown went public, it included news of its stock offering with its boxes, convincing consumers that they weren\u2019t selling out but were in fact allowing their customers to buy into the image of ethical, homemade food products. By 1999, Annie\u2019s was raking in $7 million in revenue; by 2012, that number reached $170 million. Annie\u2019s Homegrown has expanded from mac and cheese to crackers, pizzas, and even mac and cheese pizzas<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"farmpartners_annie_lg-615x351\"<\/a><\/p>\n

What\u2019s so bad about this, you may be asking as you slurp your gluten-free organic cheese\u2013slathered macaroni? It\u2019s not so much that Annie\u2019s is a dastardly corporation that\u2019s going to consume your soul\u2014it\u2019s just that Annie\u2019sisn\u2019t<\/em> that much different any other<\/em> corporation that sells you pre-packaged food.<\/p>\n

First, although theses days you would be hard-pressed to find the word \u201cnatural\u201d on a box of Annie\u2019s mac and cheese, in the early days this was a key selling point. But the fact is, natural truly means nothing. It is a phrase completely unregulated by, and with no official definition from, the FDA. \u201cNatural\u201d is purely a marketing term, alongside \u201cartisan\u201d and \u201cpremium,\u201d that is ccccdesigned to lure you to buy a product and make you think it is better than other products. Today you\u2019ll be more apt to find a \u201c100% Real Cheese\u201d ribbon on an Annie\u2019s Box, and this label isn\u2019t much better. Who decides what\u2019s \u201creal\u201d cheese? Annie\u2019s does. And furthermore, if there are real cheeses, what\u2019s a \u201cfake\u201d cheese? Can you have a 78 percent, semi-Real Cheese?<\/p>\n

Second, even though Annie\u2019s doesn\u2019t use artificial dyes or some of the complex yet generally safe chemical compounds as Kraft does, it is actually marginally less healthful than our old friend in the blue box: it has roughly the same amount of calories, protein, sodium, and fiber as its competitor but contains a little less than twice as much fat and more than twice as much saturated fat.<\/p>\n

Third, and most importantly for those of you who categorically refuse any foods that remotely have any connection to being \u201cprocessed,\u201d Annie\u2019s Mac and Cheese is<\/em> a processed food! Those natural annatto dyes are still<\/em>squeezed out of millions of achiote plants. That nonfat milk still<\/em> relies on polyethersulfone to separate the fat molecules from the milk itself. Annie herself is not filling each individual box of mac and cheese\u2014just like Kraft, they are made in a factory setting.<\/p>\n

\"maccheese_shellswhitecheddar_shellswhitecheddar_cr___\"<\/a>So what should we take from all this? Knowing all that we do about process cheese, should we give it up altogether as a nasty, artificial, alien thing? I say no. We necessarily reside within a world in which at least some of the food that we put in our bodies has been processed in some way. If this doesn\u2019t bother you, all the better; if it does, do your best to stay away from those kinds of foods. But the most important thing is that we shouldn\u2019t kid ourselves.<\/p>\n

We aren\u2019t missing out on some bucolic society in which virgin dairymaids singlehandedly make their cheese from scratch, because that hasn\u2019t existed for more than a hundred and fifty years. (If we ate what our grandparents ate, we would still be eating process cheese!) And even those expensive products we buy at Whole Foods spouting marketing copy like nonfat, organic, and healthy are probably going to be processed in some sort of way.<\/p>\n

It is only when we make the effort to fully<\/em> comprehend the food systems we live in that we can even begin to consider changing things for the better, whatever that may be.<\/p>\n

So the next time your outstretched hand brushes the boxes of the mac and cheese section of your grocery store, pausing from one real cheese product to the next, take a moment, consider everything that you\u2019ve learned, and think about it.<\/p>\n

Photo by Compfight<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Is “natural” boxed mac ‘n’ cheese better for you?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":6861,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[319],"coauthors":[66],"class_list":["post-3054","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-community-culture"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nReal Cheese Product\u2014Bunnies and Buzzwords: Annie's Homegrown, 100% Real Cheese! - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Annie Withey was looking for a way to showcase a crazy invention dreamed up by her husband: a resealable, disposable plastic bag.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Real Cheese Product\u2014Bunnies and Buzzwords: Annie's Homegrown, 100% Real Cheese!\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Annie Withey was looking for a way to showcase a crazy invention dreamed up by her husband: a resealable, disposable plastic bag.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/grantgbradley\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-01-21T00:44:49+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2014-04-15T11:21:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/bunnies.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Grant Bradley\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Grant Bradley\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"6 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/real-cheese-product-bunnies-and-buzzwords-annies-homegrown-100-real-cheese\/\",\"name\":\"Real Cheese Product\u2014Bunnies and Buzzwords: Annie's Homegrown, 100% Real Cheese! 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