{"id":30651,"date":"2017-06-12T00:01:16","date_gmt":"2017-06-12T04:01:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30651"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:23:12","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:23:12","slug":"like-hot-feel-burn-spicy-cheeses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/like-hot-feel-burn-spicy-cheeses\/","title":{"rendered":"Some Like It Hot: Feel the Burn with Spicy Cheeses"},"content":{"rendered":"

Some Like It Hot is featured in our Summer 2017 issue<\/a>. Click here<\/a> to read our spicy cheese tasting notes.<\/em><\/h4>\n

To understand the power of peppers, bite into Dragon\u2019s Breath Cheddar from Henning\u2019s Wisconsin Cheese<\/a>. The moment the curds enter your mouth, a compound called capsaicin\u2014present in added habanero chiles\u2014awakens receptors on your tongue. Called polymodal nociceptors, their role is to alert the brain of intense disturbances, such as extreme temperature or hazardous acidity. Soon your central nervous system alarms are firing, signaling imminent danger: Cue burning, blood vessel dilation, sweating, and flushing. If it feels as if your mouth is on fire, that\u2019s because your brain believes<\/em> your mouth is literally on fire.<\/p>\n

This reaction is generally considered a pain sensation rather than a taste. And it\u2019s no joke: Kay Schmitz from Henning\u2019s explains that the Kiel, Wis.\u2013based company once made an even spicier cheese called Scorchin\u2019 Scorpion with scorpion peppers, which were simply too hot. \u201cWe had to stop making it,\u201d she says. \u201c[Working with the peppers] was dangerous for our employees\u2014even with gas masks on!\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Big

Beehive Cheese Company’s Big John’s Cajun<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

A Painful Preference<\/h2>\n

This prompts a logical question: Why would someone suffer voluntarily through such pain? It\u2019s a dilemma that Paul Ronzin, a psychologist at the University of Pennsylvania, once pondered. Chile eating, he surmised in a 1980 paper, is a thrill-seeking activity\u2014comparable to \u201criding on rollercoasters\u201d and \u201ctaking very hot baths.\u201d Satisfaction, he wrote, derives from tricking the brain into perceiving a threat\u2014and then enjoying the wave of relief that comes with the realization of safety. Rozin coined a term to describe this feeling: benign masochism.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Ghost

Kindred Creamery’s Ghost Pepper Colby Jack (top) and Rumiano Cheese Company’s Organic Pepper Jack<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

It appears that benign masochism is on the rise in America. By 2019, the hot sauce market will be growing 15 times faster than the overall sauces market in North America, according to Euromonitor International. And it\u2019s not just Tabasco; in dozens of hot sauce-specific shops across the US, where bottles with dread-inducing names such as \u201cLethal Ingestion,\u201d \u201cSatan\u2019s Blood,\u201d and \u201cUnbearable\u201d line the shelves, it\u2019s clear that makers are vying for the title of hottest-of-the-hot.<\/p>\n

Ingredients are also getting hotter. In 2013, the Guinness World Records crowned Carolina Reaper\u2014a pepper with a Scoville rating of 1,569,300 units\u2014as the world\u2019s hottest. (The rating measures capsaicin concentration\u2014jalape\u00f1os usually rate below 10,000 on the same scale.) According to Ed Currie, the South Carolina-based plant breeder who developed it, the pepper tastes sweet initially. Then \u201cthe heat hits you, and it\u2019s like you have a mouthful of lava,\u201d he says. \u201cThe burn is tremendous.\u201d<\/p>\n

As condiments have become more piquant, so has cheese. It\u2019s unclear whose idea it was to marry jalape\u00f1o peppers with Monterey Jack, but the ingredient was one of many added flavorings that California makers experimented with in the 1980s. Within a few decades pepper Jack, a springy, mild cheese with a slight kick, burst onto the mainstream. In 2012, USA Today reported it was one of the country\u2019s fastest-growing cheese styles, ubiquitous as a burger topper in fast-food restaurants. (Today it even flavors Cheez-Its.)<\/p>\n

Looking back on US cheese market data, Suzanne Fanning, vice president of national product communications at the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board<\/a> (WMMB), notes that jalape\u00f1o-flecked cheeses made up one-fifth of the ever-expanding flavored cheese category\u2019s sales in 2016. But that year was also the first in which wheels spiked with the beloved pepper experienced a slight decline in sales, while those flavored with habanero\u2014a chile that can be up to 35 times hotter than the hottest jalape\u00f1o\u2014saw a marked increase. \u201cInterest in less familiar hot peppers is on the rise,\u201d Fanning says.<\/p>\n

Producers haven\u2019t stopped at habanero. Cheddar infused with Indian Bhut jolokia<\/em>, a.k.a. ghost pepper (once considered the hottest in the world), accounted for 30 percent of entries into the US Championship Cheese Contest\u2019s \u201chigh heat\u201d flavor category in 2017. Wisconsin-based Cesar\u2019s Cheese makes Angel de la Muerte<\/em> (\u201cAngel of Death\u201d) cheddar with Currie\u2019s Carolina Reapers. Looking at the growth in spicy cheese over time, Currie acknowledges an endless pursuit of heat. \u201cI\u2019m going to have to release a new pepper sometime soon,\u201d he muses.<\/p>\n

\"Sriracha

Roth Cheese’s Sriracha Gouda<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Mirroring the Melting Pot<\/h2>\n

In the early 1980s, Rozin, the psychologist puzzled by the pursuit of heat, embarked on an experiment: He baked colored crackers with differing concentrations of chile oil and fed them to chimpanzees. The chimps quickly learned that the yellow crackers were spicier than the green ones, and avoided them. As trials continued, however, subjects started reaching for the yellow crackers more often. Each time scientists upped the spice on the yellow crisps, the chimps would initially return to green. Over time, though, they\u2019d shift to yellow again. Rozin\u2019s conclusion? The chimps built up an acquired tolerance\u2014and preference\u2014for spice.<\/p>\n

Paul Bosland, co-founder and director of the Chile Pepper Institute<\/a> at New Mexico State University, sees a similar pattern with humans in his home state, where chile flakes are a staple at the dinner table. \u201cWhen people move to New Mexico, at first they might look for mild chiles,\u201d he says. \u201cBut within a year they\u2019ll be up to medium spice.\u201d<\/p>\n

Is it possible that this tolerance building is happening across our entire society? Bosland points out that many of North America\u2019s early settlers hailed from Northern Europe, where hot peppers are rare.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy grandparents, my parents, they wouldn\u2019t eat spicy food,\u201d he says. \u201cThey liked sauerkraut, potatoes. You know\u2014bland.\u201d Newer generations born and raised in regions like the Southwest, where European culinary traditions mingle with native crops and cuisines, have grown to love heat. \u201cYoung people like spicy, hot food,\u201d Bosland says. \u201cThey\u2019ve embraced it.\u201d<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not just native chiles they\u2019re falling for. According to data published in 2016 by the United States Department of Agriculture, chile pepper production in California and New Mexico grew by about 85 percent between 1980 and 2014. During the same period, imports of dried hot peppers increased by over 1000 percent. Scott Hall, owner of spice-importing company Occidental International Foods since 1999, has witnessed soaring demand for what he calls \u201cexotic\u201d peppers.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Aleppo-Urfa

Chevoo’s Aleppo-Urfa Chili and Lemon<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cIn the early years I sold mainly paprika, cayenne, black pepper,\u201d he says. \u201cNow we stock more than 160 items, including hard-to-find spices like ghost chiles [and] habaneros.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hall chalks it up to America\u2019s increasingly multicultural social fabric. Currie agrees, citing an influx of immigrants from the Caribbean, Africa, and Southeast Asia in the last few decades.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe market has evolved,\u201d Hall says. \u201cThrough the diversification of America we\u2019ve been exposed to extremely spicy foods.\u201d Growing up in this pluralized society, dining out frequently, and traveling more than their parents did have exposed younger generations to spice, encouraging tolerance, appreciation, and curiosity.<\/p>\n

All of that is expressed in cheese. \u201cMillennials seek out cheeses that reflect their globalized palate,\u201d says the WMMB\u2019s Fanning. Gina Mode, who teaches courses on flavored cheese at the Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research<\/a>, concurs, noting a rise in cheeses seasoned with Hatch and chipotle peppers, plus sriracha<\/a> and kimchi<\/a>. \u201cThere are a lot of particularly ethnic flavors,\u201d she says. \u201cPeople have gotten really creative with peppers.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Ancho

Mozzarella Company’s Ancho Chile Mascarpone Torta<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Focusing on Flavor<\/h2>\n

When Chevoo<\/a> co-founders Gerard and Susan Tuck first dreamed up infusions for their olive oil-marinated fresh ch\u00e8vre, they didn\u2019t choose a blend of Urfa and Aleppo chiles for the sake of exoticism\u2014and especially not to \u201cblast people,\u201d Gerard says. It was more about crafting flavor profile: heat that builds slowly, tamed by lemon and creamy cheese. The combo highlights the mild chiles\u2019 innate qualities: Aleppo\u2019s fruitiness, Urfa\u2019s smokiness.<\/p>\n

Co-owner Pat Ford of Beehive Cheese<\/a> in Uintah, Utah, also believes that the virtue of spice is in its complexity. \u201cIt\u2019s not just about slappin\u2019 something really hot on the outside of the cheese,\u201d he says, referencing Beehive\u2019s spice-rubbed wheel Big John\u2019s Cajun<\/a>. \u201cYou\u2019re not going to get slapped upside the head with a two-by-four [of] heat. It\u2019s subtle, complex.\u201d<\/p>\n

Chile expert Bosland has always taken issue with classifying heat as pain rather than taste. He points to many Asian cuisines, where heat\u2014along with bitter, sweet, and sour flavors\u2014is considered necessary for balancing dishes. \u201cChile heat is like salt: You can always put too much,\u201d he says. \u201cBut just as every chef will tell you that a little salt enhances a dish, I\u2019d argue that a little bit of chile also enhances a dish.\u201d<\/p>\n

In Vermont, cheesemakers at Plymouth Artisan Cheese<\/a> blend an Indonesian-style pepper relish called sambal into fresh curds before molding. Marketing manager Sarit Werner notes that while the relish itself is super-spicy, it yields more of an umami taste in the cheese. It\u2019s also tempered by a dash of Vermont maple syrup, mixed into the condiment before it hits the vat.<\/p>\n

That combination\u2014which she calls \u201cVermont Sambal\u201d\u2014reflects another tendency among American cheesemakers: to imbue spicy ingredients with new dimension and meaning. \u201cThe blend we came up with is really working for Vermont,\u201d Werner says. \u201cEven though a lot of people haven\u2019t heard of sambal, they\u2019re intrigued. They\u2019re fascinated.\u201d<\/p>\n

As 19th-century epicure Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin famously proclaimed, \u201cTell me what you eat, and I\u2019ll tell you who you are.\u201d Imagine if he was still around to taste cheeses like this one, laced with unlikely bedfellows of sweet Green Mountain and spicy Indonesian flavors. No doubt he\u2019d recognize our multi-culturalism, thrill-seeking nature, and eternal quest to spice things up.
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/h2>\n

BIG JOHN\u2019S CAJUN<\/strong>
\nBeehive Cheese Company<\/a>
\nUintah, Utah
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Cayenne pepper and Cajun spice blend
\nDive into this wheel\u2019s Cajun spiciness by snagging a piece that includes the rubbed rind. Its bold, addictive flavor is meaty, reminding us of barbecue, chili, and soy sauce.<\/p>\n

ANCHO CHILE MASCARPONE TORTA<\/strong>
\nMozzarella Company<\/a>
\nDallas
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Ancho chiles
\nLayers of smoky ancho contrast beautifully with bone-white mascarpone in this appetizer-ready round. Stay tuned for slight back-of-the-palate warmth and hints of sundried tomatoes.<\/p>\n

GHOST PEPPER COLBY JACK<\/strong>
\nKindred Creamery<\/a>
\nMuscoda, Wis.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Habanero and ghost peppers
\nA sneaky one, with initial notes of toasted pepper and cumin\u2014until several seconds later, when flames engulf your entire mouth.<\/p>\n

DRAGON\u2019S BREATH CHEDDAR<\/strong>
\nHenning\u2019s Wisconsin Cheese<\/a>
\nKiel, Wis.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Habanero peppers
\nThe name fits: Laced with visible, slightly crunchy pepper flakes, this cheddar tastes tame and tangy before vicious heat crashes in. A burning sensation targets the back of the tongue.<\/p>\n

ALEPPO-URFA CHILI AND LEMON<\/strong>
\nChevoo<\/a>
\nSonoma, Calif.
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Aleppo and Urfa chiles
\nAn initial hit of lemon complements Aleppo chile\u2019s fruity notes. Urfa chile\u2019s subtle heat and smokiness stick around after the uber-soft ch\u00e8vre melts in the mouth.<\/p>\n

GHOST PEPPER JACK<\/strong>
\nGlanbia Nutritionals<\/a>
\nTwin Falls, Idaho
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Ghost peppers
\nA balance of cool cream and searing spice, this brick smells of brine and peppers, with hints of dill pickle and olives.<\/p>\n

ORGANIC PEPPER JACK<\/strong>
\nRumiano Cheese Company<\/a>
\nWillows, Calif.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Jalape\u00f1o peppers
\nA classic exemplar of America\u2019s first hot-pepper cheese style: milky, smooth, and gentle. Get in our quesadilla!<\/p>\n

\n
\"Plymouth

Plymouth Artisan Cheese’s Sambal<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

SAMBAL<\/strong>
\nPlymouth Artisan Cheese<\/a>
\nPlymouth, Vt.
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Sambal relish
\nAromas of garlic, mango, and curry waft from this pretty marbled cheese. There are notes of roasted tomato and sour cream, finishing with a hint of sweetness from the maple syrup.<\/p>\n

HOT STUFF BUFFALO WING CHEDDAR<\/strong>
\nYancey\u2019s Fancy<\/a>
\nCorfu, N.Y.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Jalape\u00f1o, habanero, and cayenne peppers; hot sauce
\nSomehow this waxed wedge manages to be just as flavorful as it is scorching. All buffalo wing sauce on the nose, the mouth-coating paste offers creaminess and tang that stands up to the fire.<\/p>\n

SRIRACHA GOUDA<\/strong>
\nRoth Cheese<\/a>
\nMonroe, Wis.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nHot stuff: Sriracha; red pepper; chile extract
\nMild and buttery upfront with hints of yogurt and sweet chile sauce, this red-flecked gouda incites a slight heat that builds in the throat and lingers pleasantly.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cheese has become a vehicle for America’s infatuation with spice<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":30633,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[14710,14707,14693,3623,14706,14689,14692,14700,14684,3997,1042,2844,855,14695,14683,14691,4237,14696,14708,1897,14711,14685,2000,13851,14714,14703,14686,14709,14705,1235,14142,2691,14704,14716,14712,14699,14694,14688,7635,3717,14713,14702,14701,14687,14698,2198,2195,14697,9042,14690,1208,14715],"coauthors":[290,583,999],"class_list":["post-30651","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-aleppo-urfa-chili-and-lemon","tag-ancho-chile-mascarpone-torta","tag-angel-de-la-muerte","tag-beehive-cheese","tag-beehive-cheese-company","tag-benign-masochism","tag-bhut-jolokia","tag-big-johns-cajun","tag-capsaicin","tag-carolina-reaper","tag-cheddar","tag-chevoo","tag-chevre","tag-chile-pepper-institute","tag-dragons-breath-cheddar","tag-ed-currie","tag-evi-abeler","tag-gerard-tuck","tag-ghost-pepper-colby-jack","tag-ghost-pepper-jack","tag-glanbia-nutritionals","tag-habanero","tag-hennings-wisconsin-cheese","tag-hot-sauce","tag-hot-stuff-buffalo-wing-cheddar","tag-jean-anthelme-brillat-savarin","tag-kay-schmitz","tag-kindred-creamery","tag-millennials","tag-molly-mcdonough","tag-monterey-jack","tag-mozzarella-company","tag-multiculturalism","tag-nicole-twohy","tag-organic-pepper-jack","tag-pat-ford","tag-paul-bosland","tag-paul-ronzin","tag-plymouth-artisan-cheese","tag-roth-cheese","tag-rumiano-cheese-company","tag-sambal","tag-sarit-werner","tag-scorchin-scorpion","tag-smoky","tag-spicy-cheese","tag-sriracha-gouda","tag-susan-tuck","tag-suzanne-fanning","tag-tabasco","tag-wisconsin-milk-marketing-board","tag-yanceys-fancy"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nSome Like It Hot: Feel the Burn with Spicy Cheeses - 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