{"id":30816,"date":"2016-03-01T14:36:55","date_gmt":"2016-03-01T19:36:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30816"},"modified":"2021-08-26T13:49:43","modified_gmt":"2021-08-26T17:49:43","slug":"making-mark-cheesemaker-thierry-graindorge-e-graindorge","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-mark-cheesemaker-thierry-graindorge-e-graindorge\/","title":{"rendered":"Making His Mark: Cheesemaker Thierry Graindorge of E. Graindorge"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"Thierry

Thierry Graindorge<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

I look up from my phone at the Saint-Lazare train station in Paris to see a grinning, tan Thierry Graindorge skidding to a stop 10 feet away. He\u2019s gesturing toward me, and to the train about to depart to Lisieux, France. \u201cBut my ticket is for the next train,\u201d I say. He raises his hand in protest. Thierry won\u2019t take no for an answer. So I run after him, dragging my suitcase while a shoulder bag thumps my hip, and we board just in time for the two-hour trip to Normandy. There, we\u2019ll visit E. Graindorge<\/a>\u2019s four cheesemaking facilities, accompanied by Mathilde, Thierry\u2019s 28-year-old daughter.<\/p>\n

Once in Lisieux, Thierry plucks the parking ticket off his Audi and we speed off toward Livarot. I laugh nervously as he zooms around a slower vehicle in the narrow lane. It\u2019s clear, however, that Thierry knows these roads like the back of his hand. Soon, congestion gives way to fields, honking Peugeots to balers and tractors, and tourists to the brown-and-white spotted Normande cows with eye markings that give them a bespectacled appearance.<\/p>\n

\u201cZen,\u201d Thierry says, waving at the sea of barley and grass. (In French, grain d\u2019orge <\/em>translates to \u201cbarley seed.\u201d) His bright blue eyes glitter behind round, red glasses. \u201cThis is the start of the story.\u201d<\/p>\n

In the Beginning<\/h1>\n
\"Spotted

Spotted Normande cows out to pasture<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

E. Graindorge was founded in these fields. In 1910, a Livarot farmer named Eug\u00e8ne Graindorge\u2014Thierry\u2019s grandfather\u2014began making the raw cow\u2019s milk cheese that dates to the Middle Ages and is named after the town. Traditionally crafted in small vats with milk left over from buttermaking, Livarot<\/a> is a heady washed-rind cheese wrapped in five bands of rush raffia to help it retain shape during ripening. These strands earned Livarot its nickname, \u201cThe Colonel,\u201d as the French military uniform of that rank features the same number of stripes.<\/p>\n

Finding success in making and selling Livarot, Eug\u00e8ne became an affineur for other makers. And, like many of his fellow farmers in Normandy, he pressed cider and fermented Calvados from the apples that grow so plentifully in the temperate climate. This was a time of steady growth for E. Graindorge, driven by Livarot. In 1958, Eug\u00e8ne\u2019s son, Bernard, assumed leadership with an eye toward expansion.<\/p>\n

\n
\"The

The iconic label of E. Graindorge Livarot<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Similar to European stinkers Limburger and \u00c9poisses, Livarot was always considered a workingman\u2019s cheese. It requires a leap of faith to get past the first sulfurous whiff to find the sweet, bacony paste within\u2014but because French palates adore complex and assertive cheeses, demand was high. Bernard sourced additional milk from farms in Pays d\u2019Auge nearby, increasing production and eventually introducing his Livarot to Paris. (Today, E. Graindorge is one of a few companies still producing this cheese, which was awarded Protected Designation of Origin, or PDO, status in 1972).<\/p>\n

After earning a master\u2019s degree in engineering from Nancy-Universit\u00e9 in Lorraine, Thierry Graindorge took the reins from his father in 1970. Since then, he has acquired Fromagerie Domaine de Saint Loup, producer of Camembert de Normandie<\/a>; the Fromagerie du Plessis facility for making Pont l\u2019\u00c9v\u00eaque<\/a>; and Fromagerie du Pays de Bray, which turns out heart-shaped Neufch\u00e2tel cheese<\/a>\u2014all now manufactured under the E. Graindorge label. In 1989, to ensure consistent milk quality, Thierry purchased tanks for farmers who could not afford them so they could store the milk at the proper temperature while waiting for trucks to arrive.<\/p>\n

While Thierry is committed to cheesemaking traditions at E. Graindorge, he is always hunting for ways to modernize. \u201cAll the time I am working, I am thinking of projects,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s my family, my family business.\u201d Eug\u00e8ne, the farmer, saw an opportunity and ran with it. By sourcing additional milk, Bernard wisely put the business on solid footing. I imagine Thierry wonders how history will remember his expansion into other cheeses.<\/p>\n

A Family Business Diversifies<\/h1>\n
\n
\"Eug\u00e8ne

Eug\u00e8ne Graindorge’s 1920 Citro\u00ebn delivery truck is now on display at Livarot factory<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Back on the road, we swing by the Livarot factory. Though rebuilt after a 1999 fire, it looks as it did at the beginning of the 20th century, complete with a maison \u00e0 colombages<\/em> fa\u00e7ade\u2014plaster over timber frame\u2014and the original 1920 Citro\u00ebn truck Eug\u00e8ne used to deliver cheese parked near the entrance. Inside, guests may take a self-guided tour through the history of E. Graindorge, observing video footage and photographs from the earliest days onward. While Livarot was the company\u2019s first cheese and flagship product, sales have waned in recent years. Its pasteurized version of Pont l\u2019\u00c9v\u00eaque, a washed-rind cheese with a sweet and creamy interior, is probably most familiar to US consumers, while its Camembert is known worldwide.<\/p>\n

The fluffy white mold we expect to see on a camembert rind dates only 200 years or so. Earlier, wilder iterations might have had a grey cast, perhaps caused by rogue yeast or bacteria. The name \u201ccamembert\u201d itself isn\u2019t protected, despite attempts to award it PDO designation\u2014meaning that producers across the world may make the style and call it by that name. However, if the cheese is prepared using defined techniques with raw milk from predominantly Normande cows pastured in the Pays d\u2019Auge\u2014a fertile region encompassing parts of the Calvados and Orne d\u00e9partments\u2014it may<\/em> be labeled Camembert de Normandie PDO. This is what E. Graindorge makes in the next factory we visit, just over 15 miles to the northwest of Livarot.<\/p>\n

\"E.

E. Graindorge workers hand-ladle curds into forms for Camembert de Normandie<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Camembert de Normandie is crafted using time-honored techniques. Cheesemakers must wait until curds coagulate in vats, which are then wheeled into a room warm and heavy with atmospheric moisture. Here, hundreds of molds are set out on long, narrow tables. Skilled workers, each with their own style, ladle curds into the forms with consistent, elegant motions. After a day, staffers apply Penicillium candidum<\/em> and salt to the cheese surfaces. Then the rounds sit on metal racks in ripening rooms for about 10 days, before being packaged in distinctive wooden boxes. Twenty-one days from cow to cheese, and Camembert de Normandie is on its way.<\/p>\n

E. Graindorge also creates Camembert au Calvados\u2014the region\u2019s potent apple brandy is added straight to the vat of curds, resulting in wheels boasting the earthy scent of fermenting apples and the garlicky taste of a well-ripened camembert. One evening during my visit, Thierry opens a bottle of 1930 Calvados made by his grandfather, which we sip alongside nibbles of the boozy round\u2014proof that the cheese really does embody Normandy.<\/p>\n

We spend our final day at the E. Graindorge\u2013owned Fromagerie du Pays de Bray in the beautiful town of Neufch\u00e2tel-en-Bray, to learn how the cheese of the same name is made. With its bloomy rind and cakelike interior, Neufch\u00e2tel Coeur de Bray has an established pedigree. Legend has it that Neufch\u00e2tel cheese was made in rounds or random shapes before World War II, Mathilde tells me; during the conflict, French women formed it into hearts in hopes of inspiring peace.<\/p>\n

Today Neufch\u00e2tel Coeur de Bray remains a small-batch cheese in France and it is sold almost entirely around Valentine\u2019s Day in the US\u2014its sparse showing the rest of the year may explain why the name \u201cNeufch\u00e2tel\u201d here is more closely associated with a fresh, cream cheese\u2013like spread. (When I ask how two distinctly different cheeses can have the same name, Mathilde shrugs and reminds me that name protection is extremely difficult and expensive.)<\/p>\n

Coming to America<\/h1>\n
\n
\"A

A selection of E. Graindorge cheeses<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

E. Graindorge has focused on broadening its market to the US for some time. The company is one of a few midsize French cheese producers still owned and operated by its founding family. What\u2019s more, it makes both traditional, raw-milk cheeses for French customers as well as reworked, pasteurized versions of Livarot (wrapped in strands of red food-grade paper instead of customary raffia), Camembert de Normandie, Camembert au Calvados, Pont l\u2019\u00c9v\u00eaque, and Neufch\u00e2tel Coeur de Bray, which meet US safety standards for export. (Smaller cheesemakers simply don\u2019t have the finances or resources to modify versions for the US market.)<\/p>\n

In the past decade, family-owned French cheesemaking businesses have consolidated heavily into worldwide powerhouses\u2014think Lactalis<\/a> and Savencia<\/a> (n\u00e9e Bongrain). Thierry\u2019s growth plan is similar: acquire other companies to produce new cheeses under his label. Yet for distribution and marketing, he has joined five other like-minded dairies in The French Cheese Club<\/a>. Members pool resources, coordinate publicity efforts, and cooperate on distribution to the US and beyond, while preserving long-established cheesemaking practices.<\/p>\n

During our travels, Thierry points out the high-quality gravure printing plant he purchased recently. He speculates that, perhaps in a few years, Mathilde\u2014who went to school for business, apprenticed as a cheesemaker in Vermont, and is learning the family trade by working in every area of the enterprise\u2014will take over E. Graindorge. Then he\u2019ll focus on printing, or maybe on something else. (The word \u201centrepreneur\u201d has French origins, after all.)<\/p>\n

On our return drive to Lisieux, Thierry talks about how Normandy has changed over the years. (\u201cFirst it was horses, then cows, now mutton\u201d in the local fields that contribute to the agrarian economy, he says.) But what Thierry cherishes most about the region are the things that stay the same: the history, the peace and quiet, and, most importantly, \u201cthe little rains that come every day,\u201d watering the apple trees heavy with plump fruit and driving the agricultural engine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Third-generation Livarot cheesemaker Thierry Graindorge has an eye on the US market<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":30825,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[1057],"coauthors":[81,1058],"class_list":["post-30816","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-camembert"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMaking His Mark: Cheesemaker Thierry Graindorge of E. 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