{"id":30849,"date":"2017-06-22T12:00:34","date_gmt":"2017-06-22T16:00:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30849"},"modified":"2021-02-26T16:02:52","modified_gmt":"2021-02-26T21:02:52","slug":"happy-accident-firefly-farms-mountaintop-bleu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/happy-accident-firefly-farms-mountaintop-bleu\/","title":{"rendered":"Centerfold: A Very Happy Accident, FireFly Farms’ MountainTop Bleu"},"content":{"rendered":"

A Very Happy Accident is featured in our Summer 2017 issue<\/a>.<\/em><\/h4>\n

Accident, a town of 320 people in Garrett County, occupies a rough triangle of land in the westernmost corner of Maryland. Though within striking distance of Baltimore, Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C., the hilly county is one of the most sparsely populated areas in the state. Bordered by West Virginia to the south and west and by Pennsylvania to the north, the bucolic region drew Mike Koch and his husband, Pablo Solanet, who both lived and worked in D.C. (as a financial services executive and a chef, respectively), to buy a 130-acre farm there in 1997.<\/p>\n

They knew they wanted to start a business, and when deciding among beekeeping, growing greens and herbs, and cheesemaking, the couple chose cheese. \u201cWe\u2019d been reading about Mary Keehn at Cypress Grove<\/a>, Allison Hooper and Bob Reese at Vermont Creamery<\/a>, [Judy Schad] at Capriole<\/a>,\u201d Koch says. \u201cWe\u2019re three hours from 16 million mouths in the Mid-Atlantic foodshed. We thought there was a gap to be filled for goat cheese in the [region].\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Mike

Mike Koch and Pablo Solanet, the founders of FireFly Farms<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Though the couple had no prior cheesemaking experience, they dove in. The men attended a cheese technology course at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, and between Solanet\u2019s culinary background and some chemistry courses Koch took in college, they found their way, discovering that \u201ccheese is something you learn to make by doing it again and again and again,\u201d Koch says. They founded FireFly Farms<\/a> in 2000, and their first wheels hit markets in 2002.<\/p>\n

The pair planned to begin with fresh ch\u00e8vre, a soft-ripened pyramid, and blue cheese. The proximity of the bloomy-rind pyramid to the blue wheels in the creamery, however, created something else altogether. \u201cThe brie got into the blue and it totally changed the cheese,\u201d Solanet says. \u201cI thought I\u2019d made a mistake, but [the cross-pollination] made it creamy with a really mild blue-cheese flavor.\u201d<\/p>\n

Koch and Solanet ran with the unintended consequences. During the summer of 2002, the cheese (christened MountainTop Bleu<\/a>, a name inspired by the nearby Allegheny Plateau) won a blue ribbon at the American Cheese Society Judging & Competition. Since then, the blue-gray pyramid has racked up 27 more awards\u2014making it FireFly\u2019s most decorated cheese. It\u2019s little wonder: With an understated, earthy funk from the blue cultures and a gooey texture that develops as the cheese ripens from the outside in, MountainTop Bleu is a unique but approachable crowd-pleaser.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe first time I tried it, I didn\u2019t realize [what it was],\u201d says Alicia Clugh, founder of the Maryland Cheese Guild. \u201cI always say to people, if you don\u2019t think you like blue cheese, try it\u2014 this is like a gateway drug.\u201d<\/p>\n

COMMUNITY SERVICE<\/h2>\n
\n
\"FireFly

FireFly Farms’ retail shop in Accident, Md.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Today MountainTop Bleu is part of FireFly\u2019s growing line, which also includes the cooked-curd wheel Bella Vita<\/a> and an aged washed rind named Cabra La Mancha<\/a>, among others. In 2017 the farm will produce 200,000 pounds of cheese, according to director of operations Matt Cedro, who has been with the company since 2003 and now runs day-to-day production. The business includes a retail outlet and a 3,000-square-foot creamery built in 2011 (the original creamery was down the road in Bittinger, Md.), and employs 25 people, 15 of whom are full-time. The company sources milk from a network of seven goat dairies just over the border in Somerset County, Penn.<\/p>\n

FireFly Farms is dedicated to creating opportunities in this rural region, says Koch, who served as Garrett County\u2019s director of economic development from 2012 to 2015. \u201cIt\u2019s remarkable to see what they\u2019ve done\u2014where they\u2019ve done it,\u201d Clugh adds. In an area where farmers struggle to make a living, Koch and his team are devoted to their milk suppliers. They pay higher milk prices than the farmers would get in the commodity market and offer incentives for high quality.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn 2016, 44 percent of the value of our cheese sales went into the pockets of our farmers,\u201d Koch says. \u201cWe care about that\u2014if they succeed, we succeed.\u201d<\/p>\n

In an economy driven heavily by tourism (nearby Deep Creek Lake draws visitors from across the region) and the seasonal, often part-time jobs that come with it, FireFly staffers enjoy health benefits, paid sick time and vacation time, and a retirement plan. Employee retention is high as a result, Cedro says. Some workers have stayed on board a decade or longer\u2014including Cedro\u2019s wife, Andrea, who runs sales and marketing, and director of cheesemaking Dan Porter.<\/p>\n

Cedro started at FireFly as an apprentice and now works with new hires. \u201cFirst, they become sanitarians\u2014sanitation is number one in cheesemaking,\u201d he says. \u201cSlowly but surely we integrate them into the cheesemaking process.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Director

Director of operations Mike Cedro (center) stands with members of the cheesemaking team<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

COMPLICATED CULTURES<\/h2>\n

Currently seven FireFly cheesemakers are trained to make MountainTop Bleu. After the goat\u2019s milk is pasteurized, cultured (with both P. candidum<\/em> and P. roqueforti<\/em>), and set with rennet, it rests 30 minutes before curds are cut into marble-size pieces and stirred. \u201cThe goal is to get the curd to the same consistency every time for when it goes into the molds,\u201d Cedro says.<\/p>\n

\n
\"A

A curious kid at one of the Pennsylvania farms where FireFly sources its milk<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Reaching that goal takes skill, he says, because the stirring process changes depending on the fat and protein levels in the milk and the amount of moisture in the curds. The most experienced cheesemakers, then, get the task. \u201cIt\u2019s a \u2018feel\u2019 thing,\u201d Cedro says, \u201csomething you learn over time.\u201d When curds are ready, team members ladle them into pyramid molds. The cheeses drain a day before they\u2019re unmolded and soaked in brine a few hours before heading to the aging room.<\/p>\n

During ripening, blue mold appears on the cheese\u2019s surface first. Staffers then have a two-day window before candidum<\/em> growth emerges to pierce the pyramids, which encourages MountainTop\u2019s delicate veining to develop in the paste. Soon after, Cedro explains, white mold grows on the rind, covering the blue mold and suppressing its growth. As the cheese matures, \u201cyou get a balance of the mild blue flavor with that gooeyness [from the] soft-ripening process,\u201d induced by the candidum<\/em>, he says.<\/p>\n

After two weeks, the cheese is wrapped for sale and transferred to cold storage, where low temperatures curtail ripening. The team holds the cheese until it reaches just the right point\u2014most retailers and distributors prefer to receive the cheese when it\u2019s about 30 days old, Cedro says, so they have time to sell it at varying levels of maturity. MountainTop Bleu \u201creaches its peak anywhere from 60 to 90 days from the beginning of production,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n

Once shipped, MountainTop Bleu makes its way to FireFly\u2019s retail and restaurant customers. The company will sell almost $2 million worth of cheese this year, helping to stimulate the economy further\u2014fostering full-time, career-track jobs with benefits and offering fair prices for farmers, thereby allowing them to expand their herds\u2014in this corner of the countryside.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey have their act together,\u201d Clough says of FireFly Farms. With more than two decades of careful planning directed by Koch, Solanet, and team, this is clearly\u2014wait for it\u2014no accident.<\/p>\n

WHERE TO BUY<\/h2>\n

DELAWARE<\/strong>
\nJanssen\u2019s Market<\/a>
\n3801 Kennett Pike
\nWilmington, DE
\n302.654.9941<\/a><\/p>\n

ILLINOIS<\/strong>
\nStandard Market<\/a>
\n1508 Aurora Ave.
\nNaperville, IL
\n630.536.1630<\/a><\/p>\n

333 E. Ogden Ave.
\nWestmont, IL
\n630.366.7030<\/a><\/p>\n

MARYLAND<\/strong>
\nFireFly Farms Creamery & Market<\/a>
\n107 S. Main St.
\nAccident, MD
\n301.746.8188<\/a><\/p>\n

Gilbert\u2019s Provisions<\/a>
\n25 Commerce St.
\nBerlin, MD
\n410.973.2334<\/a><\/p>\n

Tastings Gourmet Market<\/a>
\n1410 Forest Dr.
\nAnnapolis, MD
\n410.263.1324<\/a><\/p>\n

MASSACHUSETTS<\/strong>
\nBoston Cheese Cellar<\/a>
\n18 Birch St.
\nRoslindale, MA
\n617.325.2500<\/a><\/p>\n

NEW JERSEY<\/strong>
\nShop-Rite<\/a>
\n808 Rte. 46
\nParsippany, NJ
\n973.335.2625<\/a><\/p>\n

NEW YORK<\/strong>
\nEastern District<\/a>
\n1053 Manhattan Ave.
\nBrooklyn, NY
\n718.349.1432<\/a><\/p>\n

VIRGINIA<\/strong>
\nCheesetique<\/a>
\n2411 Mt. Vernon Ave.
\nAlexandria, VA
\n703.706.5300<\/a><\/p>\n

The Organic Butcher of McLean<\/a>
\n6712 Old Dominion Dr.
\nMcLean, VA
\n703.790.8300<\/a><\/p>\n

In addition to the shops above, FireFly Farms cheeses may be found throughout the Mid-Atlantic in grocery stores such as MOM\u2019s Organic Market, Whole Foods Market, and Wegmans.<\/p>\n

ENJOYING MOUNTAINTOP BLEU<\/h2>\n

When MountainTop Bleu is young and still firm, the cheese holds its shape when cut and may be crumbled over spinach salads sweetened with berries or softened atop a burger. When the pyramid ages, spoon its gooey paste onto crackers or baguette slices and dollop with plum or fig jam\u2014those lush, round fruit flavors complement the understated blue flavor and creamy texture of the cheese beautifully. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Two cultures collide to create FireFly Farms’ award-winning MountainTop Bleu<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":60,"featured_media":30636,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[424],"tags":[14408,14407,14403,14409,930,14404,14416,1050,7284,1129,178,14419,855,1678,14418,2556,4108,14413,14399,14414,638,14411,1130,2045,14400,14410,14401,14406,14402,14417,14421,14412,14415,14420,14405,1572],"coauthors":[718,1059],"class_list":["post-30849","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-centerfold","tag-alicia-clugh","tag-allegheny-plateau","tag-allison-hooper","tag-bella-vita","tag-blue-cheese","tag-bob-reese","tag-boston-cheese-cellar","tag-burger","tag-cabra-la-mancha","tag-capriole","tag-cheesemaking","tag-cheesetique","tag-chevre","tag-cypress-grove","tag-eastern-district","tag-fig-jam","tag-firefly-farms","tag-firefly-farms-creamery-market","tag-garrett-county","tag-gilberts-provisions","tag-goat-cheese","tag-janssens-market","tag-judy-schad","tag-mary-keehn","tag-maryland","tag-matt-cedro","tag-mich-koch","tag-mountaintop-bleu","tag-pablo-solanet","tag-shop-rite","tag-spinach-salad","tag-standard-market","tag-tastings-gourmet-market","tag-the-organic-butcher-of-mclean","tag-university-of-wisconsin-at-madison","tag-vermont-creamery"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCenterfold: A Very Happy Accident, FireFly Farms' MountainTop Bleu - 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