{"id":30872,"date":"2017-07-06T13:01:35","date_gmt":"2017-07-06T17:01:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=30872"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:21:16","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:21:16","slug":"grafton-village-cheeses-double-vision","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/grafton-village-cheeses-double-vision\/","title":{"rendered":"Grafton Village Cheese’s Double Vision"},"content":{"rendered":"

Double Vision is featured in our Summer 2017 issue<\/a>.<\/em><\/h4>\n

\u201cCheddar is a crowded category,\u201d says Meri Spicer, vice president of sales and marketing at Grafton Village Cheese<\/a>. She\u2019s right: The segment is so saturated that the phrase \u201cVermont cheddar\u201d conjures a specific texture and flavor profile (firm yet creamy, savory, and sharp) even for those not immersed in the artisan cheese community.<\/p>\n

Grafton\u2019s steady stream of awards\u2014its cave-aged rounds and cheddar blocks have snagged ribbons at the United States Championship Cheese Contest, the International Cheese Awards, the World Cheese Awards, and the Good Food Awards\u2014and 52 years of continuous operation have cemented the company\u2019s presence on the food scene. But the creamery isn\u2019t content to rest on its laurels; according to Spicer and other staffers, Grafton is just getting started.<\/p>\n

THE CHEDDAR EVOLUTION<\/h2>\n

Founded in 1892, Grafton Village Cheese\u2014like many other creameries\u2014was born out of necessity. Farmers in Grafton, Vt., needed a way to preserve their fluid milk prior to the advent of home refrigeration, so they created a cheesemaking cooperative. Twenty years later, a fire destroyed the creamery, and cheddar production ceased. Over the following decades, the local economy sagged and population dwindled. This saddened Dean Mathey, a wealthy resident of Princeton, N.J., with family ties to the Green Mountain State\u2014so he decided to take action.<\/p>\n

Mathey founded the Windham Foundation<\/a> in 1963 to revitalize Grafton. His first priority: create industry. So the Windham Foundation resurrected the cheesemaking company that year, along with the circa-1801 Grafton Inn<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Production

Production supervisor Greg Joslyn makes cheddar<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Grafton Village Cheese began producing block cheddar with raw cow\u2019s milk from area co-ops, eventually offering the cheese at varying ages. Older cheddars, however, weren\u2019t part of the initial plan. \u201cIt wasn\u2019t like, Oh, we\u2019re going to make this [at different ages].<\/em> It was: Oh, crap, we\u2019ve got a bunch of 2-Year [Cheddar] . . . what do we do?<\/em>\u201d says Greg Joslyn, a production supervisor with the company for 18 years. \u201cAround the time I started is when we introduced 3-Year [Cheddar]. We thought it was pretty good, so we said, Let\u2019s see what happens when it goes to four years. We had it all the way up to six years.\u201d As time passed, Grafton honed its maturation process and began crafting cheese with the intent of aging it. Today its one-, two-, three-, and four-year aged cheddars<\/a> are available, in addition to flavored varieties.<\/p>\n

\u201cFlavors don\u2019t make up a huge part of our business, but they\u2019re something people get excited about,\u201d says Vince Razionale, director of the cave program and sensory analysis. Grafton approaches these cheeses carefully, developing varieties that consumers can savor with a glass of wine. The team isn\u2019t in it for the novelty.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe don\u2019t just throw in a bunch of spices and call it good,\u201d Spicer says. In addition to Grafton\u2019s newest releases\u2014Smoked Chili Cheddar<\/a> and Truffle Cheddar\u2014the brand also offers Maple Smoked Cheddar<\/a>, Garlic Cheddar, and Sage Cheddar.<\/p>\n

GREEN MOUNTAIN SPIRIT<\/h2>\n

In 2008, Grafton opened a second creamery in Brattleboro, 27 miles south of the original plant. To ensure its cheese would have the same taste of place no matter where it was made, the creamery employed a technique used heavily in the industry. \u201cWe brought in buckets of whey from Grafton and threw them all over the floors [of the Brattleboro facility],\u201d Joslyn says. (The liquid helped recreate Grafton\u2019s specific microbiome.)<\/p>\n

\"The

The Brattleboro facility houses a creamery and cheese shop<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The Brattleboro location also boasts a sprawling shop, offering local and international wheels and wedges in addition to Grafton cheeses, plus other Vermont products such as preserves, maple syrup, specialty chocolates, and even homemade dog treats. \u201cWe don\u2019t ever think of other\u2014particularly Vermont\u2014cheesemakers as competitors. We think of them as collaborators,\u201d Spicer says. \u201cWe\u2019re all in the business of growing the artisan cheese community.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Windham Foundation also owns Grafton Ponds, an all-seasons outdoor center, and hosts Grafton Conferences, informal debates of key public policy issues facing Vermonters (up next: how to preserve and promote a recreational forest economy). All proceeds from the three companies\u2014Grafton Village Cheese, the Grafton Inn, and Grafton Ponds\u2014are funneled back into the foundation, which supports area communities by providing scholarships to graduating high school seniors and grants to other nonprofits dedicated to social services, the arts, and education.<\/p>\n

\u201cGrafton Village Cheese is an integral part of allowing dairy farmers and cheesemakers to continue [their work],\u201d says Steve Millard, senior vice president of merchandising and operations at Murray\u2019s Cheese in New York City. (The company sells Grafton\u2019s products and also fulfills its mail-order business.)<\/p>\n

For Spicer, even working at Grafton feels a bit like activism. \u201cWe\u2019re buying milk, we\u2019re providing jobs; we\u2019re buying salt, cultures, rennet, and ingredients,\u201d she says. \u201cAll of that is adding to the rural economy here.\u201d<\/p>\n

ANOTHER DOOR OPENS<\/h2>\n

In 2010, cheese artisan Dane Huebner joined the Grafton team\u2014a major hire that ushered in a new era for the business: cave-aged, natural-rind cheeses. \u201cWe were watching where society was going in terms of interest in food and knowledge surrounding food,\u201d Spicer says. \u201cThat\u2019s when we decided to start the cave-aged line.\u201d<\/p>\n

The creamery\u2019s four caves are located at the Grafton facility, with two caves for natural-rind cheeses and two caves for washed-rind cheeses. \u201cOur caves are very small\u2014small compared to other producers and a small percentage of what we do\u2014but they\u2019re very full,\u201d says Razionale, who replaced Huebner in 2016.<\/p>\n

\n
\"A

A wheel of Clothbound Cheddar<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Currently, Grafton produces the following cave-aged cheeses: Clothbound Cheddar<\/a>, which accounts for half of all cave production; Shepsog<\/a>, a mixed-milk (cow and sheep) wheel; and Bear Hill<\/a>, a sheep\u2019s milk Alpine style. On the horizon: a semi-soft cow\u2019s milk wheel called Saxtons River, a non-GMO cheese, and a cow\u2019s milk version of a previously retired sheep\u2019s milk round.<\/p>\n

If you can find it, stock up on Queen of Quality Clothbound Cheddar, a special reserve edition made with Jersey milk from nearby Spring Brook Farm<\/a> in Reading, Vt. Grafton also collaborates with affineur Crown Finish Caves<\/a> in Brooklyn, N.Y., to turn out Windham, another natural-rind cheddar available exclusively at Whole Foods, and Bismark<\/a>, a sheep\u2019s milk cheddar-Pyrenees style hybrid.<\/p>\n

Ewe\u2019s milk was once tricky for Grafton to secure, as the animals are notoriously stingy seasonal producers. But recently it found a new source just a state away. \u201cThese are real Amish\u2014they do everything with horse-drawn plows and in many cases there are diversified farms,\u201d says Razionale of the 11-family group in Upstate New York that supplies Grafton\u2019s raw sheep\u2019s milk. \u201cThey aren\u2019t just [raising] sheep, they\u2019re growing vegetables . . . David, whose house we went to back in November, had, like, 80 turkeys in his front yard.\u201d<\/p>\n

UNDER CONSTRUCTION<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Director

Director of the cave program and sensory analysis Vince Razionale tests the readiness of a wheel using a cheese trier<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

At Grafton, work is never done, especially when it comes to boosting quality. Each wheel and block is tasted regularly as it ages to ensure that it\u2019s sent out for sale right when it\u2019s ready. Razionale, who leads the charge on cheese grading, is excited about the process. \u201cI think it\u2019s fair to say that the quality of our cheese is going to improve,\u201d he says. \u201cWe\u2019re all still learning, right? What should a three-year cheese taste like when it\u2019s six months old?\u201d<\/p>\n

Grafton is answering that question through research and development. \u201cWe do R&D on [block] cheddar,\u201d Joslyn says. \u201cWe\u2019re always looking to make our recipes better.\u201d These experimental batches, which are typically very small, are crucial for a company that matures its product as long as Grafton does.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen you make aged cheese, mistakes take five years to correct,\u201d Spicer says. She\u2019s speaking from firsthand knowledge: Production errors several years ago caused Grafton to run out of both 3- and 4-Year Cheddar. Luckily for turophiles, inventory is starting to trickle back in\u2014currently the 3-Year is available in limited quantities and 4-Year will be ready again in 2018.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s lucky for Grafton, too. \u201cI hate to use the word sexy<\/em>,\u201d Spicer says, \u201cbut the cheeses that get attention, the ones that people post about on social media, the ones that win awards . . . tend to be our older cheddars and cave-aged cheeses.\u201d No surprise, then, that Grafton is planning a cave expansion scheduled for completion in the next two years.<\/p>\n

THE BOTTOM LINE<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Cubes

Cubes of iconic Vermont cheddar<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Though it\u2019s the aged cheddars and natural-rind wheels that often garner Grafton press, the creamery\u2019s younger and flavored cheddar blocks are just as important\u2014if not more so\u2014when it comes to sustaining the business. \u201cThe 1- and 2-Year cheddars and Maple Smoked Cheddar pay our salaries, quite frankly,\u201d Spicer says. \u201cThey keep the lights on; they pay the bills.\u201d<\/p>\n

To do this, the bars must have wide distribution, yet some in the artisan community see this accessibility as a negative\u2014mongers may not want to stock a cheese that\u2019s also for sale at their local grocery store. \u201cThere\u2019s this expectation among cheesemongers\u2014and this isn\u2019t unique to cheese, it\u2019s everywhere in [specialty] food\u2014that the artisan should have to sweat a little harder,\u201d says Razionale, a former monger at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Mass. \u201cIt\u2019s romantic and cool, but it\u2019s also kind of unfair.\u201d<\/p>\n

At a time when small creameries are struggling to stay afloat (Washington, D.C.\u2019s Sona Creamery closed in 2016; Georgia\u2019s Many Fold Farm and Minnesota\u2019s The Lone Grazer shuttered earlier this year), economic viability is more important than ever. Millard of Murray\u2019s Cheese recognizes that: \u201cGrafton should not be penalized for growing their business. [Cheese] should not be elitist. [At Murray\u2019s] we don\u2019t deem this cheddar less worthy because it was in a grocery store. We believe firmly in elevating the specialty industry and making great cheese more approachable.\u201d<\/p>\n

So let\u2019s celebrate the fact that supermarkets are stocking specialty curds. After all, Grafton wouldn\u2019t be in a position to give so much to their community without such mass appeal.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vermont’s Grafton Village Cheese preserves tradition while making its wheels accessible to all<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":30637,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[1724,14029,14026,1042,1116,1979,14027,14019,14030,14018,1069,14020,14022,14017,3069,14015,14028,4097,14024,1565,14025,14016,1068,14023,3508,14021,1892],"coauthors":[70,1067],"class_list":["post-30872","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-bear-hill","tag-bismark","tag-brattleboro","tag-cheddar","tag-clothbound-cheddar","tag-crown-finish-caves","tag-dane-huebner","tag-dean-mathey","tag-formaggio-kitchen","tag-good-food-awards","tag-grafton-village","tag-green-mountain-state","tag-greg-joslyn","tag-international-cheese-awards","tag-maple-smoked-cheddar","tag-meri-spicer","tag-saxtons-river","tag-shepsog","tag-smoked-chili-cheddar","tag-spring-brook-farm","tag-truffle-cheddar","tag-united-states-championship-cheese-contest","tag-vermont","tag-vince-razionale","tag-whole-foods","tag-windham-foundation","tag-world-cheese-awards"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nGrafton Village Cheese's Double Vision - 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