{"id":31194,"date":"2017-08-09T10:29:26","date_gmt":"2017-08-09T14:29:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=31194"},"modified":"2019-06-06T11:39:28","modified_gmt":"2019-06-06T15:39:28","slug":"planet-cheese-lightning-strikes-twice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/planet-cheese-lightning-strikes-twice\/","title":{"rendered":"Planet Cheese: Lightning Strikes Twice"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/code>
\n\"Planet
\nPlanet Cheese<\/strong><\/a> is a weekly blog devoted to everything cheese: products, people, places, news, and views. James Beard Award\u2013winning journalist Janet Fletcher writes <\/em>Planet Cheese from her home in Napa Valley. Janet is the author of <\/em>Cheese & Wine, <\/em>Cheese & Beer, and <\/em>The Cheese Course and an occasional contributor to <\/em>culture<\/strong><\/a>. Visit <\/em>janetfletcher.com<\/a> to sign up for <\/em>Planet Cheese and view Janet\u2019s current schedule of cheese appreciation classes.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Really,<\/strong><\/em> what are the chances? Two thousand cheeses in a competition and the Best of Show is a repeater? But that was the case in Denver in July’s last weekend, when the American Cheese Society <\/a>judges, tasting blind and scoring independently, awarded top honors to the same cheese that prevailed in 2014. I was among this year\u2019s group of judges so I know the winner was worthy. But I tasted several other newcomers that impressed me almost as much. I\u2019ll get to those newbies, but first a virtual standing ovation for Spring Brook Farm\u2019s Tarentaise Reserve<\/a>, a raw cow\u2019s milk wheel in the tradition of France\u2019s Beaufort. Aged for two years (twice as long as the non-reserve Tarentaise), the cheese was intensely savory and concentrated. No \u201chints of\u201d anything here. You couldn\u2019t miss the big aromas of roasted onion, toasted walnuts, beef broth and brown butter. On the tongue, it was dense and silky, with a finish like thick, warm cream. French onion soup meets cr\u00e8me brul\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

Like the two cheeses that ranked just behind it (St. Malachi <\/a>from The Farm at Doe Run<\/a> in Pennsylvania, and Harbison<\/a> from the Cellars at Jasper Hill <\/a>in Vermont), Tarentaise is a farmstead cheese, made with the milk of the farm\u2019s 40 Jersey cows\u2014\u201cthe wrong milk\u201d, joked Jeremy Stephenson, the cheesemaker. (By French standards, Jersey milk is too rich for this style).<\/p>\n

\"Tarentaise_reserve\"<\/a>

Jeremy Stephenson<\/p><\/div>\n

But Stephenson emphasized grass-fed more than farmstead. Every year, when it is time to select a competition entry, his team routinely looks to June and July batches. This year\u2019s winning wheel was made in early July, when Vermont pasture is lush. \u201cWe know (summer) cheese has a certain quality conferred by the grass,\u201d says Stephenson.<\/p>\n

After nine to ten months of aging, each wheel of Tarentaise is evaluated for the reserve program. Only five percent get to spend another year in the cellar. \u201cIt\u2019s very expensive real estate,\u201d says the cheesemaker, but that extra affinage cranks up the flavor.<\/h3>\n

Tarentaise Reserve<\/a> unquestionably deserves the win on its merits, but the outcome is especially heartwarming because cheesemaking profits support a program that educates city kids about farm life. More than 12,000 disadvantaged fifth- and sixth-graders have spent a free week in the \u201cclassroom\u201d at Spring Brook Farm.<\/p>\n

Myself, I fell hard for St. Malachi, a hybrid cow\u2019s milk cheese incorporating both Gouda and alpine techniques. Aged for a year in natural caves, it was sweet and nutty, with whiskey and butterscotch aromas. Flawless cheese.<\/p>\n

Four other cheeses from the competition that I can\u2019t wait to encounter again:<\/h4>\n

Arethusa Farm Arethusa Blue (Connecticut):<\/strong><\/a> Farmstead cow\u2019s milk cheese; buttery and toasty, reminiscent of Saltine crackers<\/p>\n

\"Goat_milk_cheese\"<\/a>

Brigid’s Bender: An aged goat’s milk wheel washed in Pinot Noir<\/p><\/div>\n

Briar Rose Creamery Brigid\u2019s Bender (Oregon):<\/strong><\/a> An aged goat\u2019s milk wheel washed in Pinot Noir. Smooth and mellow, with a subtle winey note. And such a beauty.<\/p>\n

Prodigal Farm Rowdy Gentleman (North Carolina):<\/a><\/strong> Supple, yeasty beer-washed goat cheese<\/p>\n

Tucker Family Farm Feta (Montana):<\/a> <\/strong>Awesome sheep\u2019s milk feta, creamy and tangy, from a diversified farm milking about 100 sheep.<\/p>\n

By the way, Tarentaise Reserve<\/a> is not the only repeat Best of Show winner. Wisconsin\u2019s Pleasant Ridge Reserve, from Uplands Cheese Company, has won three times. Given the growth in the competition entries, another three-peat seems unlikely.<\/p>\n

Cheese Class: Cheese Meets Beer<\/h2>\n

Monday, August 14<\/strong>
\n Silverado Cooking School<\/strong>
\n Napa<\/strong>
\n 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.<\/strong>
\nReserve Here<\/a><\/p>\n

Even wine lovers have to admit that some cheeses don\u2019t play nice with wine. Craft beer to the rescue! For every cheese, even the most challenging types, there\u2019s a brew that pairs to perfection. I\u2019ll prove it to you tonight as we \u201cwork\u201d through seven awesome cheese and beer matchups. Joining me to provide color commentary on the beers: Jack Hyland, Certified Cicerone for Fieldwork Brewing.<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\"Planet<\/a><\/h1>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

 <\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tarentaise Reserve, a raw cow’s milk cheese from Vermont, strikes gold for the second time at American Cheese Society awards conference<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":92,"featured_media":31201,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[1091,1756,1956,13167,1131,1194,13168,1115,1094,1114,1092,13169],"coauthors":[305],"class_list":["post-31194","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-american-cheese-society","tag-arethusa-farm","tag-briar-rose-creamery","tag-frances-beaufort","tag-janet-fletcher","tag-jeremy-stephenson","tag-prodigal-farm-rowdy-gentleman","tag-raw-cows-milk-cheese","tag-spring-brook-farms","tag-st-malachi","tag-tarentaise-reserve","tag-tucker-family-farm-feta"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPlanet Cheese: Lightning Strikes Twice - 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