{"id":31457,"date":"2017-09-14T11:00:44","date_gmt":"2017-09-14T15:00:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=31457"},"modified":"2021-08-24T16:12:04","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T20:12:04","slug":"agriculture-adapts-corner-upstate-new-york","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/agriculture-adapts-corner-upstate-new-york\/","title":{"rendered":"Agriculture Adapts In This Corner Of Upstate New York"},"content":{"rendered":"

Fair warning: If you ask a Finger Lakes vintner to explain local history, you might get a response in geological time. \u201c370 million years ago,\u201d Bruce Murray begins, as we sit on a terrace at his winery, Boundary Breaks<\/a>, gazing out onto parallel rows of grapevines gently sloping toward Seneca Lake. Back then, he says, this bucolic landscape lay beneath a sea. After the water retreated, glaciers came, covering the land in mile-thick ice. Over two million years, their thawing waters and jagged bottoms gouged the bottoms of valleys\u2014and when they melted for good, water pooled in the crevices to create 11 finger-shaped lakes.<\/p>\n

Narrow and deep, the Finger Lakes warm slowly during summertime and cool slowly come winter, creating a moderating effect on the surrounding hills that protect small buds from damaging early frosts and plump grapes from sweltering summer heat.<\/h3>\n

The glaciers created the region\u2019s unique microclimate, and something else: \u201cThey pushed the soil around,\u201d Murray says. Fay Benson, a dairy specialist at nearby Cornell University, extrapolates: Think of how a rototiller mixes up dirt in the garden, but on a mammoth scale. \u201cMinerals are spread out evenly in the soil,\u201d he says, which has helped other plants flourish. \u201cWe have wonderful grasses,\u201d Benson adds.
\nThat\u2019s what Maryrose Livingston, co-owner of Northland Sheep Dairy<\/a> in Marathon, was looking for when she moved to the Finger Lakes with her husband, Donn Hewes, in 1999. She wanted to make farmstead cheese\u2014\u201cfundamentally, that means we were trying to grow grass,\u201d she says\u2014and here, it \u201cgrows like crazy.\u201d<\/p>\n

But luscious pasture wasn\u2019t the only temptation the area presented. The couple originally sought farmland in western Washington State but found it too expensive, so they headed due east. \u201cWe kept having to look further,\u201d Livingston says, laughing. \u201cAnd this is where we ended up.\u201d<\/p>\n

Dairy State of Mind<\/h2>\n

Looking out on the sparkling lakes and tapestry of hillside foliage, it\u2019s hard to conceive that land here could be cheap. But Central New York is struggling to adapt to a post-industrial economy. Manufacturing jobs, once the area\u2019s engine, has been streaming from the area since the late 20th century.
\nAgriculture has changed, too. Abandoned farmhouses dot the terrain, caving in and toppling over as they\u2019re engulfed in vegetation. Many of these homes date to the post-Revolutionary War period when veterans were paid in land that the federal government had seized from the area\u2019s Iroquois tribes.
\nThe ensuing homestead economy flourished until the Industrial Revolution. With the advent of railroads and refrigeration, farms began shipping milk and butter to New York City\u2014and starting in the 1960s, new regulations mandated the use of bulk tanks to store milk. Both trends pushed dairies to get bigger or drop out. Benson, who grew up on a dairy, remembers when most families kept animals. \u201cA lot of farmers had a dairy as their second job, and they didn\u2019t want to make that investment,\u201d he says. \u201cSo we lost a lot of them.\u201d<\/p>\n

Dairy is still big here\u2014the Finger Lakes is New York\u2019s largest region for milk production, and some counties have more cows than ever before. But that doesn\u2019t mean there are more farmers, says Jerry Bertoldo, a Cornell agricultural specialist: \u201cThey just have more cows per square mile.\u201d To survive today\u2019s high overhead and unpredictable prices, a farmer would need several hundred animals. \u201cAt that size or bigger, you probably have a chance,\u201d he says.<\/h3>\n

A Value Proposition<\/h2>\n

By that standard, Carmella Hoffman\u2019s 50-cow dairy was in trouble. In 2004, after years running a farm that had been in her husband\u2019s family for almost a century, low milk prices forced the Hoffmans into a tight spot. \u201cWe kept saying, what are we going to do?\u201d she remembers. \u201cWe\u2019d used all our savings to pay the bills and didn\u2019t know how to make any more money doing what we were doing.\u201d
\nThat\u2019s when she began experimenting with cheese in her kitchen, just two gallons at a time.<\/p>\n

\u201cI liked what I did,\u201d she says. \u201cAnd other people liked what I did. So I said, what the heck, let\u2019s figure out how to do this.\u201d Thirteen years later, we\u2019re sitting at a picnic table surrounded by what her family has built over the generations: a sprawling white farmhouse, a big red barn, the adjacent houses of her four children, and Sunset View Creamery<\/a>\u2019s small on-site cheese shop. Selling cheese has helped the family continue its dairy legacy. \u201cThis is where we are,\u201d she says, waving around. \u201cThis is what we want.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hoffman\u2019s story is a common one, says Pete Messmer, cheesemaker at Lively Run Goat Dairy<\/a> in Interlaken. \u201cPeople are realizing that they need to make value-added products to make farms more profitable.\u201d
\nIn the mid-1990s, Messmer\u2019s parents, Susanne and Steven, bought a dairy at the tail end of its long demise. \u201cIt was the classic Finger Lakes dairy story,\u201d he says. The farm had been in one family since the 1860s, but the last farmer was getting too old to work. \u201cMilk prices were terrible\u2026it was in rough shape,\u201d he adds.
\nWhat began as a line of three farmstead goat\u2019s milk cheeses gradually grew into ten in a range of styles, thanks in part to Pete, who took over cheesemaking in 2013. The 29-year-old has a thoughtful, creative sense, and not just when it comes to crafting wheels.<\/p>\n

\u201cI want to make great cheese,\u201d he says, \u201cbut I also want to revitalize small-scale agriculture in the area.\u201d To do so, he\u2019s building local partnerships. Some farms supply milk to Lively Run, while others have custom processing arrangements: Messmer makes cheese using their milk, which farms then sell under their own brand names\u2014an opportunity for those unable to invest in expensive facilities.<\/p>\n

Lending a Hand<\/h2>\n

One of those partners is Jessie Slayton, who owns Hemlock Ridge Farm<\/a> in Avoca with her husband, Kelvin. After selling organic milk to a co-op for years, the young couple was seeking a stable way to market locally. \u201cIt\u2019s very exciting,\u201d she tells me a week after Messmer made her first batch of cheese. \u201cIt\u2019s more than I imagined we\u2019d be able to accomplish, and it\u2019s because of the support of our community.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"Finger<\/a>

Goats at Lively Run Dairy<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

That community is precisely why \u201csmall farms are coming back,\u201d Messmer says. Switching from milk to cheese is never simple, but here, resources abound. Besides managing an extension program that works with farmers throughout the state, Cornell University\u2014a land-grant institution with a serious commitment to New York farmers\u2014recently opened a licensed dairy processing plant to budding cheesemakers as part of its Food Science extension. Carmela Beliciu, who manages the Food Processing and Development Laboratory, explains the premise: Aspiring small-scale makers develop a business plan and, if accepted, work out of the facility for 12 to 18 months. During that time, Cornell specialists offer training, education, pasteurization, and milk from the university\u2019s dairy cows delivered directly to the incubator.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe started this program to promote growth in New York\u2019s dairy industry,\u201d Beliciu says. \u201cFor startup companies, the beginning is very hard. We help with regulations and technical advice. We make those first 12 to 18 months a little easier.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Ever since Mariann Fessenden teamed up with two friends to form Tumino Cheese Company<\/a> in 2016, the trio has been making Italian-style cheeses at the Cornell facility. That alleviates the stress of licensing a milk plant and buying expensive equipment while figuring out recipes. \u201cThe things that would be very daunting as a startup\u2014our hands are held through it,\u201d Fessenden says. \u201cIt gives us an opportunity to focus on making cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Tumino trio found additional support within the region\u2019s growing cheese community, especially after joining the Finger Lakes Cheese Alliance. Founded by Hoffman of Sunset View Creamery and some other local makers eight years ago as a \u201cCheese Trail,\u201d the organization recently rebranded to make room for cheesemakers\u2014like Tumino\u2014who don\u2019t have a brick-and-mortar location. By hosting an annual festival and pursuing collective marketing opportunities, the growing group aims to bring dairy recognition to the Finger Lakes as a whole. \u201cMany of our farms are over 100 years old, and they\u2019ve got three or four generations,\u201d says the alliance\u2019s communications director, Mark Costa. \u201cBut if you don\u2019t live in the area, you don\u2019t know about them.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pairing Up<\/h2>\n

Indeed, in the scheme of things, the artisan cheese industry is newer here. Many locals see its growth in connection to the region\u2019s other crops\u2014wine especially, which went from being overlooked to lauded after pioneering makers zoomed in on improving quality. \u201cWe\u2019re somewhat in the same place that the wine industry was 20 years ago,\u201d Fessenden says.<\/p>\n

Pete Messmer agrees: \u201cA handful of [winemakers] started revolutionizing the industry here in the 1990s,\u201d he says, adding that raising the standard for wine kicked off an agritourism boom that\u2019s helping specialty cheese businesses grow. \u201cThere\u2019s so much happening here,\u201d Messmer says. \u201cSo much emphasis on actual real food.\u201d As evidence, he points to the Finger Lakes Cider House<\/a>, a tasting room opened in 2015\u2014just two miles from his goat farm\u2014as a collaboration between four local cidermakers. Co-founder Melissa Madden, who bought the on-site orchard 10 years ago, explains that the historic cider-producing region suffered from Prohibition, and has only recently started to bounce back. For the same reasons that grapes flourish here, \u201cthe Finger Lakes is a really great place to grow apples,\u201d she says, adding that experimenting with cider-appropriate varieties has been fueled by some \u201creally independent thinkers.\u201d Evidence of that ingenuity spans the selection: from naturally sparkling American oak-aged Barrel Rye Cider, to Royal Cider, a partially fermented ice cider blended with young apple brandy.<\/p>\n

Ingenuity on the farm isn’t limited to fruit and dairy. In 2007, grain farmers banded together to establish \u201cmicro-mill\u201d Farmer Ground Flour, based in Trumansburg. Milling locally grown grains into made-to-order small batches of spelt, einkorn, emmer, and other flours, the company then inspired the founding of Wide Awake Bakery, which churns out loaves in a wood-burning chamber modeled after 19th-century Spanish ovens. The loaves are sold at farmers\u2019 markets, of which there are no shortages around here. A visit displays the range of local activity: On any given day, one might spot some of Sage Hen Farm\u2019s 70 varieties of heirloom garlic varieties, wild foraged edibles from Thalli Foods, or medicinal mushrooms from Blue Oyster Cultivation.<\/p>\n

\"Finger<\/a>

Finger Lakes Cider House at Good Life Farm<\/p><\/div>\n

All Together Now<\/h2>\n

Tourism, too, has played a major role in bolstering local agriculture. \u201cThe area\u2019s natural beauty has parlayed with the wine industry and agritourism to make the Finger Lakes a nice destination,\u201d says Cornell\u2019s Bertoldo, listing temptations that draw visitors in droves: tasting wine, visiting gorges and waterfalls, swimming in lakes, eating at acclaimed restaurants, and\u2014of course\u2014visiting dairy farms.<\/p>\n

In addition to delving into the cheese world, the Slaytons have another venture up their sleeves: An on-site farm store. Visitors will be able to picnic, tour, and shop, Jessie says, adding marketing opportunities for the family\u2019s eggs, meat, maple syrup, and cheese. But she\u2019s quick to note: Neighbors can already shop here 24 hours a day. That\u2019s because, she says, \u201cwe\u2019re not just looking at this as snack food for tourists. It\u2019s a real food source for our neighbors.\u201d<\/h3>\n

With some ingenuity, farmers are building a sustainable future in a region that is suffering a steep economic decline. It\u2019s a strategy of diversification\u2014echoing the homesteaders who built their farms here\u2014and it seems promising. \u201cWe\u2019re farmers, and we want to pass that on to our children,\u201d Slayton says. \u201cThe only thing we can see for miles around is farmland, and it feels right. We\u2019re in our own little world up here.\u201d<\/p>\n


\nPhotographed by: Allison Usavage<\/em><\/h6>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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