{"id":32048,"date":"2017-11-08T10:00:44","date_gmt":"2017-11-08T15:00:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=32048"},"modified":"2017-11-09T16:49:45","modified_gmt":"2017-11-09T21:49:45","slug":"making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy\/","title":{"rendered":"Making Village Gruy\u00e8re: Good Cheese Doesn’t Come Easy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Amongst the rolling hills and quaint chalets of Rueyres-Treyfayes in the canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, Vincent Gapany is known as a bit of a celebrity. His picture adorns the placemats at the nearby Maison de la Gruy\u00e8re restaurant. He\u2019s a beloved cheesemaker of the Interprofession\u2014 an organization dedicated to protecting and furthering Gruy\u00e8re\u2019s interests globally. And, he makes amazing cheese!<\/p>\n

Gapany doesn\u2019t produce milk at his facility. Instead, he works with 10 of the 155 regional village dairies producing milk for the famous Gruy\u00e8re cheese (of which he produces nearly 160 tons per year). Each of these dairies delivers milk twice a day, as is required by Gruy\u00e8re AOP regulations. Some arrive in pickup trucks with trailers in tow. Most come by a tractor.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not a far ride. Gruy\u00e8re milk must originate within 12 miles of where the cheese is made. As the milk arrives, the celebrity springs into action. With every batch of milk, Gapany\u2019s first step is to personally take a sample. He reserves the right to refuse a batch if he thinks it\u2019s not up to his standards. The focus is completely on quality. If the producer disagrees with his judgment, an independent committee is assembled to reevaluate the milk. While this may seem a little confrontational, everyone is content with the system.<\/p>\n

\"Gruy\u00e8re\"<\/a>

Vincent Gapany works with 10 village dairies producing milk for the famous Gruy\u00e8re.<\/p><\/div>\n

The quality of the final cheese is critical, determining its monetary value. Higher-quality wheels earn more money for everyone involved. Lower-quality wheels cost the producer in the form of a penalty. With village production comprising more than 98% of all Gruy\u00e8re sold, this system helps ensure only the best cheese makes it to market. \u201cIf I do not get the best milk, I cannot make the best cheese,\u201d says Gapany.<\/h3>\n

Additional milk samples will be taken at every stage of the process. This protocol makes it much easier and quicker to research and isolate the source of any problems or contaminations. The small vials are kept for six months as insurance, a period which coincides with the time it typically takes for a wheel to show signs of any problems. As the maker, Gapany is held responsible for any issues during this time.<\/p>\n

In general, village cheesemakers are at a higher risk of having production issues because they are mixing milk sources. Alpine producers typically use their own milk and thus have a lower risk of contamination. Beyond the stringent controls and recordkeeping employed, Gapany\u2019s facility practices a thorough and continual cleaning regimen. He estimates spending more than 50% of each day cleaning the environment and equipment.<\/p>\n

On average, it takes 350-400 liters of milk to make a single wheel of Gruy\u00e8re. Gapany\u2019s vats hold up to 3,500 liters, much larger than alpine producers who are required to use 750-liter vessels. Because of this increase he can average nearly 14 wheels a day, compared to the two an alpine dairy will make. As with many alpine producers, any surplus milk is usually turned into the region\u2019s other famous cheese Vacherin Fribourgeois, of which Gapany produces three tons each year.<\/h3>\n

Living above the dairy Gapany insists it\u2019s not all work, though. There is time for family and personal interests. What does a restless, driven cheesemaker like him do for fun when he\u2019s not making cheese? He cares for his 600 pigs. \u201cIt is a hobby,\u201d he casually mentions. \u201cI like the animals. They make me happy.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sitting at his small kitchen table with a wedge of six-month Gruy\u00e8re, fresh croissants, and cups of strong coffee, Gapany smiles when asked what age he prefers to eat his Gruy\u00e8re at. \u201cTen months, that is the best.\u201d<\/p>\n

Photographed by Adam Centamore. Follow him on twitter @100loves<\/a> and on Instagram @eatdrinklearn<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/h4>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vials of milk used by makers are kept for six months as insurance by the Swiss AOP\u2014 the time it typically takes for a Gruy\u00e8re wheel to show signs of any problem.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":92,"featured_media":32052,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[1587,851,1588,1708,1227,1709],"coauthors":[1538],"class_list":["post-32048","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-fribourg","tag-gruyere","tag-gruyere-dalpage-aop","tag-rueyres-treyfaye","tag-swiss-cheese","tag-vincent-gapany"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMaking Village Gruy\u00e8re: Good Cheese Doesn't Come Easy - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Making Village Gruy\u00e8re: Good Cheese Doesn't Come Easy\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Vials of milk used by makers are kept for six months as insurance by the Swiss AOP\u2014 the time it typically takes for a Gruy\u00e8re wheel to show signs of any problem.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-11-08T15:00:44+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2017-11-09T21:49:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/gruyere1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"750\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"368\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Adam Centamore\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Adam Centamore\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/making-village-gruyere-good-cheese-doesnt-come-easy\/\",\"name\":\"Making Village Gruy\u00e8re: Good Cheese Doesn't Come Easy - 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