{"id":32689,"date":"2017-12-19T10:30:44","date_gmt":"2017-12-19T15:30:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=32689"},"modified":"2017-12-15T14:13:11","modified_gmt":"2017-12-15T19:13:11","slug":"planet-cheese-progress","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/planet-cheese-progress\/","title":{"rendered":"Planet Cheese: This Is Progress?"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Planet
\nPlanet Cheese<\/strong><\/a> is a weekly blog devoted to everything cheese: products, people, places, news, and views. James Beard Award-winning journalist Janet Fletcher writes <\/em>Planet Cheese from her home in Napa Valley. Janet is the author of <\/em>Cheese & Wine, <\/em>Cheese & Beer, and <\/em>The Cheese Course and an occasional contributor to <\/em>culture<\/strong><\/a>. Visit <\/em>janetfletcher.com<\/a> to sign up for <\/em>Planet Cheese and view Janet\u2019s current schedule of cheese appreciation classes.<\/em><\/p>\n

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M<\/span>y home library is stuffed with cheese books. (You\u2019re surprised?) I have cheese books that make me hungry and dry dairy-science textbooks that don\u2019t. I have cheese cookbooks, encyclopedias, compendiums, and memoirs. I have cheese books in four languages. But I don\u2019t have any cheese books as smart, provocative and well written as the new Reinventing the Wheel: Milk, Microbes, and the Fight for Real Cheese <\/em><\/a>by Bronwen Percival and Francis Percival.<\/p>\n

The Percivals<\/a>, who are married, have spent the last several years exploring the factors that produce distinctive cheese. They aren\u2019t scientists. Bronwen, raised on a California dairy farm, is the London-based cheese buyer for Neal\u2019s Yard Dairy<\/a>, the esteemed retailer, and exporter of fine British cheese. Francis has won several big-deal awards for his wine writing. But they are skeptics and keen observers, convinced that \u201cprogress\u201d is no friend to cheese. Cows bred to produce more milk and creameries scrubbed clean of microbes aren\u2019t the path to greatness, they argue. Milk is\u2014but raw milk that reflects the farmer\u2019s practices and landscape, not the \u201cmicrobial blank slate\u201d that pasteurized milk represents.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Kirkham\u2019s Lancashire<\/a> (featured image) was the only cheese the couple served at their wedding. Francis\u2019s parents are from Lancashire, but more significantly, this handmade cheese represents an approach to cheese making that Francis and Bronwen admire, by a cheesemaker who responds to each day\u2019s curd, not to the clock. \u201cIt\u2019s a vestige of another era,\u201d writes Francis of Kirkham\u2019s Lancashire.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Some readers may come away from this book believing that the Percivals are dismissive of science. But Francis insists that the reverse is true. Cutting-edge technology like DNA sequencing allows cheesemakers to decipher the complex microbial world on their cheese rinds. But what these contemporary techniques are revealing is that our great-grandparents knew best. The raw milk they used had flavor and enough good bacteria to outcompete pathogens. And they didn\u2019t have to rely on purchased cultures, with their predictable aromas and flavors, to get their milk to ferment.<\/p>\n

\"bronwen<\/a>\u201cOnly now are we beginning to appreciate the collateral damage caused by the out-and-out war on milk bacteria over the past thirty years,\u201d wrote the Percivals. The loss of diversity is noticeable and troubling; when cheeses are made with \u201cclean\u201d milk and a limited range of laboratory cultures, they taste the same<\/a>.<\/p>\n

There is so much wisdom and sanity in this book, expressed in admirably vivid prose. Every great cheese is unique, capturing what the Percivals call the flavor of the farm, not the flavor of the process. \u201cMore than anything else,\u201d Francis told me by e-mail, \u201cwe are arguing to avoid sameness.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Planet<\/a><\/h1>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bronwen Percival and husband Francis believe \u201cprogress\u201d is no friend to cheese. More than anything else, they say, they are arguing to avoid sameness.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":92,"featured_media":32691,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[1817,2087,1818,2088,1326,2086],"coauthors":[305],"class_list":["post-32689","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-bronwen-percival","tag-cheese","tag-francis-percival","tag-kirkhams-lancashire","tag-raw-milk-cheese","tag-reinventing-the-wheel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPlanet Cheese: This Is Progress? - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/planet-cheese-progress\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Planet Cheese: This Is Progress?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Bronwen Percival and husband Francis believe \u201cprogress\u201d is no friend to cheese. 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