{"id":32848,"date":"2018-01-08T11:30:30","date_gmt":"2018-01-08T16:30:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=32848"},"modified":"2022-09-26T09:56:00","modified_gmt":"2022-09-26T13:56:00","slug":"meal-winter-raclette","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/meal-winter-raclette\/","title":{"rendered":"The ‘It’ Meal of Winter: Raclette"},"content":{"rendered":"

W<\/span>atching raclette\u2019s journey from wheel to the plate is a study in dramatic structure. First, the exposition: The characters and setting are established. I watch Eddy Baillifard, a master Swiss racleur, position a half-wheel of cheese beneath a smoldering toaster. Then, rising action: The exposed paste of the half-wheel begins to bubble. As it grows from a dispersed effervescence into popping vesicles, I begin to hear a sizzling.
\n\u201cThe song of the raclette,\u201d Baillifard says. He points to the toasting surface. \u201cWhen it starts to make those blisters, it starts to become caramelized\u2014that\u2019s how you know it\u2019s ready.\u201d The climax: He swings the half-wheel out from beneath the heat, takes it in one hand, and perches above a plate as the top starts to ooze. And then, falling action: With the swoop of a knife, he pushes the gooey surface downward, and a thick wave of melted cheese shrugs itself gracefully onto my plate. Catharsis: Potatoes, cornichons, a bit of pepper. I jumble it together; I eat.<\/p>\n

HIGH ON RACLETTE<\/h3>\n

Baillifard lives and breathes melted cheese. When he\u2019s not manning raclette grills at food festivals around the world, you\u2019ll find him in his tiny Bruson, Switzerland\u2013based restaurant, Raclett\u2019House Chez Eddy, rocking a T-shirt that says Elev\u00e9 au fromage de Bagnes\u2014\u201craised on the cheese of the Bagnes.\u201d Here in the high-altitude Bagnes Valley, everyone grows up eating the local fromage. It\u2019s a semi-firm wheel, about a foot in diameter, aged two to three months. Made with raw, full-fat cow\u2019s milk, it\u2019s unctuous and creamy, with a golden-brown, slightly stinky rind. And it melts like a dream.<\/p>\n

Nobody knows who threw the first raclette party, but some claim it happened in this valley. At least, \u201cif you ask some older people, they might tell you that,\u201d says Marc Dubosson, who makes fromage de Bagnes alongside his father, Roger, at the Laiterie de Verbier, a small dairy nearby. Dubosson recounts the local lore: \u201cThere\u2019s a legend,\u201d he says, of \u201ca shepherd who left his cheese too close to a fire one night, and it melted.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Fable or not, historic research points to the Valais\u2014a Swiss state sprinkled with valleys like the Bagnes, each with similar cheeses and locals with a penchant for melting\u2014as the tradition\u2019s homeland. Here, the word raclette (based on the French racler, meaning \u201cto scrape\u201d) was first used to describe both a type of cheese and a dish. In an early account, a 16th-century pharmacist in the capital city of Sion detailed his idea of a good time: \u201cWe melt in front of the fire cheeses that are fatty, sweet, and tender,\u201d he wrote. \u201cAnd it is so good, that we cannot be satisfied.\u201d<\/p>\n

BEYOND THE MOUNTAINS<\/h3>\n

The melting tradition stayed hidden in these valleys until the 1960s when it started to catch on in nearby regions of France and Italy. Over the following decades, \u201craclette\u201d cheeses popped up<\/a> throughout Europe\u2014but these were younger, ready-to-melt, pre-packaged wedges, bearing little resemblance to the Alpine wheels traditionally melted in the Valais. French native and Leelanau Cheese<\/a> co-founder Anne Hoyt didn\u2019t eat raclette growing up, but she remembers when versions of the cheese first hit French supermarket shelves in the 1980s. Today, the same styles are found across Europe. \u201cThey\u2019re very soft,\u201d she says. \u201cYou can\u2019t slice them or cube them\u2014they\u2019re just made for melting.\u201d<\/p>\n

Tyler Hefferon, director of operations at Raclette restaurant in New York City, notes the same tendency among non-Swiss versions of the cheese. When melting wheels<\/a> in the traditional way, those softer cheeses don\u2019t lend themselves to scraping directly off the wheel, instead turning \u201cinto a liquid, kind of like a fondue,\u201d he says. Cave-aged Alpine wheels from Switzerland are sturdier, with a rind that stands up to the heat. \u201cYou get those crispy, burnt edges,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\"raclette\"<\/a><\/div>\n

Starting in the early 2000s, producers of Alpine wheels in the Valais, including makers of fromage de Bagnes, began working together to certify their cheeses with the Appellation d\u2019Origine Prot\u00e9g\u00e9e (AOP) label. It was finally entered into law in 2003, with the AOP grouping traditional cheeses used for raclette under a single name\u2014Raclette du Valais in French, Walliser Raclette in the state\u2019s German-speaking towns\u2014to help differentiate wheels made in true local tradition.<\/p>\n

Anne Hoyt first tasted the real thing while living in Switzerland, where she and her husband, Detroit native John Hoyt, worked making wheels of raclette on a high mountain pasture during summertime. Wanting to open their own dairy, the couple decided to return to the United States, where no artisan raclette\u2014at least in traditional Swiss style\u2014was being made. \u201cIt was something unique,\u201d Anne remembers.<\/p>\n

The duo founded Leelanau Cheese<\/a> in Leelanau, Mich., in 1995 (the company has since moved to Suttons Bay).<\/p>\n

At first, it took considerable effort to explain the tradition to Americans, but increased access to information and raclette-melting supplies has helped spread its popularity. All along the way, the Hoyts have remained as true to Swiss cheesemaking tradition as possible, evidenced by a legion of Swiss expats who have been loyal customers for decades. In 2016, the duo received a further confirmation of their success: a prestigious Super Gold medal at the World Cheese Awards.<\/p>\n

GO WITH THE FLOW<\/h3>\n

The Hoyts\u2019 win on the world stage is impressive because making a good raclette isn\u2019t easy. First, it has to ooze elegantly. \u201cGreat raclette has this ability to melt at a really low temperature, and flow,\u201d says Jeremy Stephenson of Vermont-based Spring Brook Farm. As cheese program director, he oversees the production of another award-winning raclette-style wheel called Reading. Creating meltable cheese is a challenge of balancing fat, protein, and moisture. When it gets hot enough, milkfat liquefies. That helps cheese soften\u2014but as the protein strands forming its backbone start losing structure, the fat leaches out. To prevent that separation, the ratio of fat to protein needs to be just right.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/div>\n

A good raclette also needs a high enough level of moisture to melt; in drier cheeses, protein molecules are bonded together more closely. But if it\u2019s too moist, it can\u2019t be matured for several months\u2014and the aging process is necessary for proper development of aroma, as enzymes break down the curd into flavorful fragments that increase in complexity over time.Stephenson argues that flavor complexity is what sets a truly good raclette apart. \u201cIt goes back to having high-quality milk,\u201d he says. Marc Dubosson, maker at the dairy in Verbier, agrees. The most important part of the Raclette du Valais AOP, he says, is that it requires raw milk from cows grazing on grass or dry hay. As a result, wheels reflect mountain pasture and the seasons. \u201cThe best raclette is from the months of May, June, July,\u201d he says, \u201cwhen you have the best grass and the cows are outside.\u201d<\/p>\n

HOT MESS<\/h3>\n

A few years ago, Stephenson traveled to meet Dubosson at the Laiterie de Verbier and witness raclette-making firsthand. \u201cPeople say you have to melt raclette, but that\u2019s not really true,\u201d the Vermonter says. \u201cWhen I visited, I learned that they were making something quite versatile, so high-quality that it\u2019s a beautiful table cheese.\u201d Dining with the locals was an eye-opening experience in a region where cheese platters include diverse wedges of unmelted fromage de Bagnes: wheels from different high-altitude summer pastures, goat\u2019s and sheep\u2019s milk styles, and even a one-year-aged version known locally as fromage \u00e0 rebibes.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/div>\n

Anne and John Hoyt also aim for versatility with their cheese, aging it at least three months, a bit longer than other versions on the US market. \u201cOur raclette is a cheese you can have both ways,\u201d she says. \u201cYou can eat it without melting it, at a picnic…people snack on it.\u201d While quality raclettes are complex enough to hold their own on a cheese plate, there\u2019s no denying that melting sparks a transformation. When subjected to heat, the volatile flavor compounds in cheese\u2014the ones small and light enough to float in the air and eventually reach our noses\u2014travel more easily. At the same time, a toaster\u2019s smolder causes browning reactions between sugars and amino acids on the cheese\u2019s surface, creating a range of other aromas.<\/p>\n

\u201cMelting,\u201d Hoyt says, \u201cis the beauty of it.\u201d The result? An explosion of flavor: fruity and hoppy scents of green pasture, infinite layers of buttery, meaty aromas from diverse raw milk microflora, pungency of the rind, and the nutty, roasted notes of the singed surface. \u201cIt becomes a different cheese,\u201d Stephenson says. \u201cIt\u2019s over the top.\u201d And a single melted morsel of it is never enough. But rest assured, meals of raclette are long and bountiful. At Baillifard\u2019s restaurant, ordering it off the menu yields hot portions scraped off the wheel over and over again until you\u2019re bursting at the seams\u2014sequel after sequel to cheese\u2019s most divine drama.<\/p>\n

TASTING NOTES<\/h2>\n

FROMAGE DE BAGNES<\/h3>\n

Laiterie de Verbier<\/em>
\nVerbier, Switzerland<\/em>
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nThis Raclette du Valais AOP was named best raclette at the Swiss Cheese Awards in 2014, and we understand why: It\u2019s got a sweet, fruity complexity with notes of ham and b\u00e9chamel. When heated, the pliable paste oozes like a dream.<\/p>\n

VIEUX BAGNES<\/h3>\n

Laiterie de Verbier<\/em>
\nVerbier, Switzerland<\/em>
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nThe flexible-yet-dense texture of aged raclette reminds us of chocolate; its flavor yields notes of ham, pine resin, and mole sauce.<\/p>\n

RACLETTE DE CH\u00c8VRE DE L\u2019ENTREMONT<\/h3>\n

La Fromath\u00e8que<\/em>
\nMartigny-Croix, Switzerland<\/em>
\nRaw goat\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nLighter in hue than its cow\u2019s milk relatives, this caprine twist on traditional Valaisan cheese has a smooth paste that melts in the mouth.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

RACLETTE DE BREBIS DE L\u2019ENTREMONT<\/h3>\n

La Fromath\u00e8que<\/em>
\nMartigny-Croix, Switzerland<\/em>
\nRaw sheep\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nThanks to a boost of fat, sheep\u2019s milk raclette separates quickly on the grill\u2014but we love the way heat draws out its flavors of barnyard, grass, fresh cream, and Brazil nuts.<\/p>\n

FROMAGE \u00c0 REBIBES<\/h3>\n

Alpage de Mille<\/em>
\nPrarreyer, Switzerland<\/em>
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nMade on the summer alpage, this one-year-aged raclette has a mottled natural rind and a firm, buttercup-yellow paste. Smelling of barn floor and hay, the cheese has a strong, piquant taste, with notes of yogurt and butter.<\/p>\n

SNOWMASS<\/a><\/h3>\n

Haystack Mountain<\/em>
\nLongmont, CO.<\/em>
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nThis new domestic raclette smells savory\u2014think onions cooked in beef fat\u2014with a whiff of rye bread and that signature washed-rind tang. Flavor begins with a pickle-y tartness that relaxes into a buttery finish with a hint of caraway.<\/p>\n

MILD RACLETTE<\/h3>\n

Leelanau Cheese<\/em>
\nSuttons Bay, MI.<\/em>
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nFirm and supple, with a pale yellow rind, Michigan\u2019s home-grown raclette has notes of grass and yogurt on the nose. Its low-key flavor builds slowly, starting with pure cream and evolving into waves of barnyard and roast pork.<\/p>\n

EMMI RACLETTE<\/h3>\n

Emmi<\/em>
\nVarious, Switzerland<\/em>
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nWith aromas of dark chocolate and prosciutto, this addictive Swiss-made wheel yields savory notes of ham-and-pea soup, peanuts, and pork belly.<\/p>\n

READING<\/a><\/h3>\n

Spring Brook Farm<\/em>
\nReading, Vt.<\/em>
\nRaw cow\u2019s milk<\/em>
\nMade at an award-winning Vermont creamery, nutty Reading has a light pink-orange rind, hints of flowers and grass, and a pleasing, long-lasting complexity.<\/p>\n

Check out our top picks for raclette grills here<\/a>, and master your melting method.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Melting makes great Raclette shine. Explore our guide to this Swiss cheese in all its forms.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":44635,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,26354,11],"tags":[2184,2183,910,2185,1227,2186],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-32848","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","category-stories","category-travel","tag-anne-hoyt","tag-leelanau-cheese","tag-raclette","tag-raclette-grills","tag-swiss-cheese","tag-winter-cheese"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe 'It' Meal of Winter: Raclette - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/meal-winter-raclette\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The 'It' Meal of Winter: Raclette\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Melting makes great Raclette shine. 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