{"id":32892,"date":"2018-01-12T11:30:15","date_gmt":"2018-01-12T16:30:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=32892"},"modified":"2018-01-23T15:40:15","modified_gmt":"2018-01-23T20:40:15","slug":"revival-creole-cream-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/revival-creole-cream-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"The Revival Of Creole Cream Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span class=\"wpsdc-drop-cap\">M<\/span>y first meal in New Orleans was at Willa Jean in the summer of 2016. Before I ruined an achingly pretty deconstructed red velvet cake with my fork, I took a bite of the ice cream presented unobtrusively on the side. A palate cleanser before diving into the good stuff, I told myself. It was creamy, buttery, and tart with a lemony finish, unlike anything that has crossed my tongue before. I pulled aside chef Kelly Fields to ask her what the secret ingredient was.\u201cCreole cream cheese,\u201d she replied as if it were commonplace. Wild thoughts of a Zatarain\u2019s-spiced soft cheese instantly came to my Yankee mind\u2014but that couldn\u2019t be further from the truth.<\/p>\n<h3>Creole cream cheese is a bit of a misnomer. It\u2019s not a solid spread of the Philadelphia variety. Instead, it\u2019s softer and dollopy, more in the ricotta-mascarpone family; it\u2019s Louisiana\u2019s answer to stracciatella. Typically the cheese is made with a combination of milk and buttermilk (rather than milk or cream only), which is heated with rennet. Once curdled, the mixture ferments for up to two days before curds are drained. The result is a soft, fresh cheese that\u2019s somewhat dry in texture (thus cream or half-and-half is often added before packaging or serving).<\/h3>\n<p>Historically, Creole cream cheese was eaten for breakfast with sugar and fruit or as a snack sprinkled with salt and pepper by working-class Creoles. In 1920 the Centanni family founded Gold Seal Creamery and developed the benchmark for Creole cream cheese: rich, nuanced, and thoughtfully executed with quality ingredients. Over the next half-century, small producers thrived\u2014until Big Dairy arrived in America. At the beginning of the 1980s, there were more than 1,000 dairy farms in Louisiana, according to the Southeast United Dairy Industry Association. Now there are just 119.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAs we became more American and less New Orleans, things like yogurt\u2014produced by huge companies\u2014were introduced and heavily advertised,\u201d says Elizabeth Williams, founder of the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Only a local product, Creole cream cheese could not compete.<\/p>\n<p>By 1999, Creole cream cheese was virtually extinct. Then Poppy Tooker came along. Tooker, executive producer and host of NPR\u2019s <em>Louisiana Eats!<\/em> a radio show, grew up eating Creole cream cheese\u2014her grandfather used to make it in his own kitchen. After Tooker founded the New Orleans chapter of Slow Food USA in 1999\u2014one of the first 10 chapters in the United States\u2014she nominated the spread for Slow Food\u2019s Ark of Taste, an international catalog of endangered heritage foods. It was voted in unanimously.<\/p>\n<h3>Seeing the value of indigenous foods, Tooker began teaching people to make Creole cream cheese at home. Through classes and demonstrations around New Orleans, Tooker made the cheese cool again.<\/h3>\n<div style=\"float: right; width: 45%; margin-left: 15px; margin-top: 25px;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/CreoleCrabDip_PhotoCredit_caf\u00e9-b.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-32896\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/CreoleCrabDip_PhotoCredit_caf\u00e9-b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/CreoleCrabDip_PhotoCredit_caf\u00e9-b.jpg 600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/CreoleCrabDip_PhotoCredit_caf\u00e9-b-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/div>\n<p>In 1999, third-generation dairy farmer Henry Mauthe attended one of her demos at the Crescent City Farmers Market. Like many other dairy farmers at the time, Mauthe was contemplating selling his farm. After the event, however, he decided against it and spent a year perfecting a nostalgic childhood product: Creole cream cheese.<\/p>\n<p>When Mauthe\u2019s Dairy Creole Cream Cheese debuted, lines wrapped around the block before the market bell tolled. Six-hundred units sold out in two hours. It\u2019s little surprise\u2014the concoction is gorgeously golden and rich thanks to the high butterfat content of Jersey cow\u2019s milk. This modern-day standard of Creole cream cheese \u201csaved our farm and has allowed my daughters to afford a sustainable way of life,\u201d says Kenny Mauthe, Henry\u2019s son, who now owns and manages the farm. Mauthe\u2019s Dairy also secured a deal with Rouses Supermarket to sell Creole cream cheese from Lafayette, La. to Mobile, Ala.<\/p>\n<p>While Mauthe\u2019s Dairy is a well-known commercial producer of Creole cream cheese, the overall revival still has ways to go. Luckily, plenty of Louisiana chefs are working to incorporate the spread into their menus. Find it in Creole cream cheese crab dip at Caf\u00e9 b in Metairie; the famous cheesecake at Commander\u2019s Palace in New Orleans; and pints from New Orleans Ice Cream Company. Preserving a local tradition is delicious\u2014we just have to make room on our plates.<\/p>\n<h4><i><strong>Image courtesy: Commander\u2019s Palace (cheesecake) and Caf\u00e9 b (crab dip)<\/strong><\/i><\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Creole cream cheese is seeing a resurgence in its native Louisiana.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":32895,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[589],"tags":[2210,2212,2213,2211],"coauthors":[544],"class_list":["post-32892","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-talk","tag-creole-cream-cheese","tag-louisiana-eats","tag-mauthes-dairy","tag-poppy-tooker"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - 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