{"id":32956,"date":"2018-01-16T10:30:05","date_gmt":"2018-01-16T15:30:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=32956"},"modified":"2018-01-12T14:27:37","modified_gmt":"2018-01-12T19:27:37","slug":"planet-cheese-dutch-treat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/planet-cheese-dutch-treat\/","title":{"rendered":"Planet Cheese: Dutch Treat"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"Planet
\nPlanet Cheese<\/strong><\/a> is a weekly blog devoted to everything cheese: products, people, places, news, and views. James Beard Award-winning journalist Janet Fletcher writes <\/em>Planet Cheese from her home in Napa Valley. Janet is the author of <\/em>Cheese & Wine, <\/em>Cheese & Beer, and <\/em>The Cheese Course and an occasional contributor to <\/em>culture<\/strong><\/a>. Visit <\/em>janetfletcher.com<\/a> to sign up for <\/em>Planet Cheese and view Janet\u2019s current schedule of cheese appreciation classes.<\/em><\/p>\n

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E<\/span>ven dinner guests who tell me they don’t like goat cheese tend to devour the goat Gouda I serve. \u201cThis is goat cheese??\u201d they\u2019ll say, astonished by how sweet, silky and mellow it is. Yay! Another convert. How can you not love a cheese that tastes like it\u2019s halfway down the path to candy? A fine goat Gouda like Brabander deserves to be loved by everybody, not just people with cow\u2019s milk allergies. Dutch rock-star retailer Betty Koster oversees the long aging, so no wonder it\u2019s fabulous. Grab your cheese plate and a jar of fig jam and get to know one of The Netherlands\u2019 tastiest exports.<\/p>\n

Koster and her husband, Martin, own Fromagerie L\u2019Amuse<\/a>, a retail shop near Amsterdam. But in the U.S., we know her (and bless her) for exporting the amazing L\u2019Amuse Gouda, a cow\u2019s milk cheese whose affinage she directs. Brabander<\/a> is, in a sense, its goat\u2019s milk sibling. Koster selects three-week-old wheels from a cooperative in Brabant, in southern Holland; then the 20-pound cheeses are transferred to a climate-controlled facility and matured by her methods, which differ a bit from traditional procedures. She prefers a higher aging temperature and a thin polymer coating for more breathability. Other Gouda producers apply more layers of coating to prevent moisture loss (that\u2019s money evaporating) and external mold.<\/p>\n

By Dutch law, Gouda is a cow\u2019s milk cheese, but that regulation is largely ignored. The Dutch have been making goat cheese since the 1820s, Koster says, but on a minuscule scale and mostly in poor communities. (Goats are cheaper to maintain than cows.) Goat Gouda got a boost in the 1980s when the government instituted a cow’s milk quota. Coupled with the mysterious modern rise in cow’s milk allergies, the quota prompted Dutch cheesemakers to ramp up goat cheese production.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Even so, goat Gouda still accounts for only three percent of the country\u2019s annual Gouda output (more than a billion pounds). And Brabander is a mere sliver of that.<\/p>\n

Matured for six to nine months, the cheese develops a firm ivory interior with some of those wonderful crunchy bits. (They\u2019re protein crystals.) A thin slice shaved with a cheese plane smells like cooked milk sugar or dulce de leche<\/em>, the goat’s milk caramel. Its creamy sweetness is balanced by acidity and just the right amount of salt. Like a sea-salt caramel, it creates that dance of salt and sweet on your tongue that makes you want more.<\/p>\n

The Dutch eat Gouda all day long: for breakfast, as a snack, or in the grilled ham and cheese sandwich known as a Tosti<\/em>. But Brabander is intriguing enough for the cheese board, where Koster suggests pairing it with honey, dates, walnuts, fig tapenade or apricot jam. To drink,\u201cbeer is fantastic,\u201d Koster wrote me in an e-mail. (Agreed. Choose something malty.) As for wine, she suggests white. Her final beverage recommendation surprised me. \u201cTea of course,\u201d wrote Koster. \u201cGreen tea with jasmine or an oolong.\u201d<\/p>\n

Look for Brabander at these retailers<\/a>. <\/p>\n

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\"Planet<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Goat Gouda accounts for only 3% of The Netherland’s annual Gouda output. And Brabander is a mere sliver of that.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":92,"featured_media":32957,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10],"tags":[2253,2256,2254,2251,638,2250,1051,2252,2255],"coauthors":[305],"class_list":["post-32956","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-betty-koster","tag-brabander","tag-cows-milk-allergy","tag-dutch-cheese","tag-goat-cheese","tag-goat-gouda","tag-gouda","tag-lamuse","tag-the-netherlands"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPlanet Cheese: Dutch Treat - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/planet-cheese-dutch-treat\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Planet Cheese: Dutch Treat\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Goat Gouda accounts for only 3% of The Netherland's annual Gouda output. 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