{"id":33256,"date":"2018-02-20T07:45:45","date_gmt":"2018-02-20T12:45:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=33256"},"modified":"2021-06-10T15:32:18","modified_gmt":"2021-06-10T19:32:18","slug":"a-cheese-lovers-guide-to-berlin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/a-cheese-lovers-guide-to-berlin\/","title":{"rendered":"A Cheese Lover’s Guide to Berlin"},"content":{"rendered":"

K\u00e4se Study<\/strong><\/h1>\n

When you head to Berlin, chances are you\u2019re ready for sausage. Currywurst, bockwurst, ketwurst\u2014all wurst, all the time. We don\u2019t blame you; washing down encased meat with a frothy beer is one of Germany\u2019s great pleasures. But here\u2019s what we love most about the capital: it\u2019s complicated. While other European metropolises linger in distinctive legacies, Berlin feels like a jumble, a city that never stops for a moment to collect itself. \u201cParis is always Paris,\u201d said French culture minister Jack Langin 2001\u2014\u201cand Berlin is never Berlin.\u201d That sums up the ever-evolving mood here, the willingness to embrace new trends with enthusiasm. Food is no exception: Among bustling streets and between those currywurst buden<\/em>, you\u2019ll find no shortage of turophiles indulging their instincts.<\/p>\n

This corner of Europe boasts world-class makers, too. Those with doubts should head to Cheese Berlin, a festival held in the historic Markthalle Neun every November. While exhibitors from across Europe make the trek here, approximately two-thirds hail from Berlin and nearby regions. According to co-host Ursula Heinzelmann, the event bridges the gap between the bustling city and artisans in its rural vicinity. \u201cThroughout history, Berlin has had a hard time connecting to its immediate surroundings; logistics for small producers are often difficult,\u201d she says. Since the event began in 2012, Heinzelmann has seen \u201cslow but steady progress\u201d in forging local links, she says, plus an increasing \u201cawareness for the potential of this place.\u201d \u201cPotential\u201d may be an understatement. Berlin has already fallen for curds\u2014and we\u2019ve fallen for Berlin.<\/p>\n

\n

Specialty Shops<\/h1>\n
\"Peppis<\/a>

Photo Peppis K\u00e4se Lager<\/p><\/div>\n

Peppis K\u00e4se Lager<\/a><\/h2>\n

For the largest selection of wheels from Austria and Switzerland, head to a hushed side street in Berlin\u2019s hippest neighborhood: Neuk\u00f6lln. This shop packs tons of curds into its cozy space notably raw-milk wheels, which comprise about half of the varieties on offer, and a great selection of Swiss blue cheeses such as Willi Schmid Jersey Blue and goat\u2019s milk Blaue Geiss. Snag accompaniments, too: cured sausage, wine, German fruit schnapps, and other spirits. For a hyperlocal treat, try organic honey from a neighborhood apiary, such as Sommerhonig mit Linde Nord-Neuk\u00f6lln (\u201csummer linden blossom honey from north Neuk\u00f6lln\u201d) produced by Imkerei Eismann.<\/p>\n

Weichselstra\u00dfe 65<\/em>
\n+49 17650307656
\npeppikaese.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n
\"Mai\u0302tre<\/a>

Philippe Causse and his daughters, Ana\u00efs and No\u00e9mie, in their Sch\u00f6neburg shop, Ma\u00eetre Philippe & Filles.<\/p><\/div>\n

Ma\u00eetre Philippe & Filles<\/a><\/h2>\n

After relocating from Marseilles to Berlin, Philippe Causse sought to bring a bit of his home country to Germany. Lucky for us, that resulted in a store stuffed with wonderful Francophone cheeses, wines, and sundries\u2014 including cassoulet, confit, terrine, and a wide selection of olive tapenades. When it comes to wedges and wheels, we suggest tangy, aromatic Brin d\u2019Amour, coated with wild herbs from Corsica, as well as butterscotchy, crystal-studded Mimolette Extra Vieille. As the name suggests, Causse now runs Ma\u00eetre Philippe & Filles with his daughters Ana\u00efs and No\u00e9mie; you\u2019ll find the family in the Sch\u00f6neberg neighborhood, a short stroll through the gallery-filled streets southeast of the high-end Kurf\u00fcrstendamm shopping district.<\/p>\n

Emser Stra\u00dfe 42<\/em>
\n+49 30 88683610<\/em>
\nmaitrephilippe.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n
\"Galeries<\/a>

Galeries Lafayette Berlin<\/p><\/div>\n

Galeries Lafayette Berlin<\/a><\/h2>\n

In the heart of the city\u2019s posh retail district along Friedrichstra\u00dfe, this French luxury fixture displays the creativity of architect Jean Nouvel, who earned fame designing the modern opera house in Lyon, France. A structure consisting of glass cones and cylinders fills the interior of the building with light, creating stunning visual effects. Its gourmet department beckons with treats from southern France and elsewhere. Cheese counters lean Francophone, of course; highlights include Rocamadour Fermier AOP, Carr\u00e9 de Sologne, and Banon AOP \u00c9toile de Provence. Adjacent shelves are laden with foie gras, confit, truffle oil, and salt. Bon app\u00e9tit.<\/p>\n

Friedrichstra\u00dfe 76-78<\/em>
\n+49 30 209480<\/em>
\ngalerieslafayette.de<\/a><\/em><\/i><\/b><\/p>\n

\n

Markets<\/h1>\n

\"Arminiusmarkthalle\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Arminiusmarkthalle<\/a><\/h2>\n

Dating to the 19th century, Arminiusmarkthalle makes a great lunch stop while touring the Wedding neighborhood. It\u2019s home to the annual Berliner K\u00e4setage (Berlin Cheese Days), held in February as part of the Eat! Berlin Festival. It\u2019s also the year-round base for K\u00e4seeck, a stall offering a broad range of German dairy. Head here to sample a little-known German farmer\u2019s cheese called Harzer, a regional specialty from the Harz Mountains made from sour milk. We also enjoy Wolfram Berge Tessiner Senfsauce, a mustard condiment sold in flavors including apple, fig, lemon, and pear.<\/p>\n

Arminiusstra\u00dfe 2-4<\/em>
\narminiusmarkthalle.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Dom\u00e4ne Dahlem<\/a><\/h2>\n

Set within Berlin\u2019s far southwest border with Brandenburg, this estate is home to an open-air museum and working farm cultivated for more than eight centuries. An onsite store sells homegrown produce, meat, and eggs, while a weekly Saturday market showcases handmade pasta and bread, German wine, and stalls for area cheese merchants. One stall in particular, Knippenbergs, is known for peddling a broad variety of wheels from throughout Europe\u2014look for the bright red stand proudly announcing Lust auf K\u00e4se (\u201cpassion for cheese\u201d). Another regular is Capriolenhof, specializing in handcrafted goat\u2019s milk cheeses from a farm just 60 miles north of the city.<\/p>\n

K\u00f6nigin-Luise-Stra\u00dfe 49<\/em>
\n+49 30 6663000<\/em>
\ndomaene-dahlem.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n
\"\"<\/a>

A wine and cheese tasting at Markthalle Neun. Photo Courtesy of Markthalle Neun.<\/p><\/div>\n

Markthalle Neun<\/a><\/h2>\n

Between 1886 and 1892 Berlin constructed 14 numbered market halls to provide a clean and plentiful food supply in residential neighborhoods; three remain in use today. This one, based in Kreuzberg, is home to the annual Cheese Berlin festival, plus various other annual events, weekly and monthly themed markets, and permanent stalls. Four of these stalls, open on weekdays, stock specialty curds: Alte Milch focuses on aged wheels, such as white wine\u2013washed Salzwiesen-Bergk\u00e4se; Menze Specialit\u00e4ten sells Austrian treats, including Alpine Bergk\u00e4se and handmade goat cheeses; Schaufenster Uckermark provides a culinary tour of the surrounding Brandenburg region, including regional curds and sausages; and grinbox offers Greek products, including PDO Feta and PDO Graviera, a traditional firm, aged wheel.<\/p>\n

Eisenbahnstra\u00dfe 42-43<\/em>
\n+49 30 61073473<\/em>
\nmarkthalleneun.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Restaurants, Bars, & Caf\u00e9s<\/h1>\n

Zur letzten Instanz<\/a><\/h2>\n

Come here if you want to say you ate at Napoleon\u2019s favorite Berlin pub. Zur letzten Instanz is the city\u2019s oldest restaurant, built into the remains of a medieval fortification as a gin mill in 1621. Just a hop and a skip from Alexanderplatz, diners are transported to another era here among narrow cobbled streets along a section of Berlin\u2019s \u201cother\u201d wall. In summer months the charming Biergarten is the place to dine on German fare: roulade, sausage, and Berliner Eisbein\u2014salted pork knuckle served with sauerkraut and pureed peas (go ahead, don\u2019t be shy). Cheese plates feature selections of German raw milk cheeses from Blomeyer\u2019s K\u00e4se, one of the city\u2019s best local curd purveyors.<\/p>\n

Waisenstra\u00dfe 14-16<\/em>
\n+49 30 2425528<\/em>
\nzurletzteninstanz.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

\"Princess<\/a>Princess Cheesecake<\/a><\/h2>\n

Folks feeling drained after perusing the bustling shops and boutique art galleries near Hackescher Markt would do well to have some cake. This caf\u00e9 highlights local ingredients in surprising savory variations (asparagus cheesecake, anyone?). We adore the German specialties; try a slice of K\u00f6niglicher K\u00e4sekuchen (\u201cRoyal Cheesecake\u201d) made with organic quark in lieu of cream cheese. Whimsical flavors\u2014 such as coconut cheesecake decorated with pineapple leaf spikes and named, \u201cWhen I was just a Pi\u00f1a I asked my Colada\u201d\u2014abound as well. Small, large, vegan, lactose-free, and gluten-free cakes offer sweetness for everyone.<\/p>\n

Tucholskystra\u00dfe 37<\/em>
\n+49 30 28092760<\/em>
\nprincess-cheesecake.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

\"Kaufhaus<\/a>Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe)<\/a><\/h2>\n

Opened in 1907, Kaufhaus des Westens\u2014widely known as KaDeWe\u2014is the second-largest department store in Europe. Despite being hit with an American airplane in 1943 and nearly burning to the ground, the store reopened its first two floors in 1950, and a gourmet department (on the sixth floor) followed a few years later. The sprawling cheese section features more than 950 varieties, plus a gourmet case devoted entirely to French curds\u2014one of 30 such specialized food and drink bars. After taking a break to dine on baked Saint-Marcellin, seek refreshment in either the Mo\u00ebt & Chandon or the Champagne Jacquart bars, both conveniently located adjacent.<\/p>\n

Tauentzienstra\u00dfe 21-24<\/em>
\n+49 30 21210<\/em>
\nkadewe.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

\"Restaurant<\/a>Restaurant Quarr\u00e9<\/a><\/h2>\n

Situated on the famed Pariser Platz with views of the Brandenburg Gate, this establishment in the five-star Hotel Adlon Kempinski is the ultimate in dining for history buffs. The hotel\u2019s notable guests include the likes of Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, Thomas Edison, Josephine<\/p>\n

Baker, and Albert Einstein. It survived the city\u2019s WWII bombing and shelling, only to be burned down by drunken Red Army soldiers in May 1945 and rebuilt following German reunification. Despite the building\u2019s larger-than-life status, restaurant manager Grischa Wolff says Quarr\u00e9 offers \u201cinformal, friendly, and individual service\u2014it\u2019s authentic, just like the city of Berlin.\u201d Be sure to order the Brandenburg Burrata appetizer (showcasing cheese sourced from its namesake state, a Berlin neighbor), served with cherries, pumpernickel bread, and macadamia nuts.<\/p>\n

Unter den Linden 77<\/em>
\n+49 30 22610<\/em>
\nhttps:\/\/www.kempinski.com\/en\/berlin\/hotel-adlon<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Facil<\/a><\/h2>\n

Boasting two Michelin stars, Facil offers a true gourmet experience. It\u2019s situated on the fifth floor of the five-star Mandala Hotel near one of the most dynamic areas of Berlin: the bustling Potsdamer Platz (also the site of the world\u2019s first electric traffic signal). The kitchen is overseen by wunderkind Michael Kempf, named Chef of the Year by Germany\u2019s top gastronomic magazine Der Feinschmecker in 2014-15 and awarded a Michelin star at just 26 years old. A raw-milk cheese course is served as part of Kaemp\u2019s prix-fixe lunch menu, while an a la carte dinner menu presents a cheese selection curated by the restaurant\u2019s sommelier.<\/p>\n

Potsdamer Stra\u00dfe 3 (Mandala Hotel)<\/em>
\n+49 30 590051234<\/em>
\nfacil.de<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Sphere<\/a><\/h2>\n

Picture mixed-milk Tomme du Berger and organic ch\u00e8vre Coeur Gourmand \u00e0 la Figue served alongside rot brot (bread made with beet juice), pecans, and chutney. Now picture eating it in a giant tower with a revolving 360-degree view of Berlin. Sphere sits near the top of the iconic 1200-foot-tall Fernsehturm (Television Tower) on Alexanderplatz, erected in the 1960s by the German Democratic Republic. Reservations are a must, especially for window seats. Post-meal, head to the observation deck or sip a cocktail at Bar 203\u2014Berlin\u2019s highest bar\u2014more than 660 feet above the city.<\/p>\n

Panoramastra\u00dfe 1A<\/em>
\n+49 30 247575875<\/em>
\ntv-turm.de\/en\/bar-restaurant<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\n

\"La<\/a>La Cantine d\u2019Augusta<\/a><\/h2>\n

This French-inspired wine and cheese bar doubles as a deli offering catering and\u2014from May to September\u2014picnic baskets to go (replete with a blanket and wine glasses). Exceptional wedges and wheels, including Brie de Meaux PDO and authentic, raw-milk Camembert, are supplied by world-champion monger Bernard Mure-Ravaud. While cheese plates are always on the menu, dinner brings fondue, raclette, and potatoes au gratin for stronger appetites, plus ample nondairy options including tartines and charcuterie boards. On weekends, linger over leisurely brunch plates (and don\u2019t skip the Comt\u00e9-filled croissant).<\/p>\n

Langenscheidtstra\u00dfe 6\/6a<\/em>
\n+49 30 96597617<\/em>
\nlacantinedaugusta.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

All of the cheesiest haunts in Germany’s historic, hedonistic capital.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":97,"featured_media":33299,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[2493,2217,2494,2282,2496,2499,2495,2219,2497,2498],"coauthors":[2514],"class_list":["post-33256","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-berlin","tag-berlin-food","tag-berlin-germany","tag-cheese-shop","tag-german-cheese","tag-german-guide","tag-germany","tag-passport-to-berlin","tag-restaurants","tag-travel-guide"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA Cheese Lover's Guide to Berlin - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"All of the cheesiest haunts in Germany's 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