{"id":33363,"date":"2018-03-01T07:45:37","date_gmt":"2018-03-01T12:45:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=33363"},"modified":"2021-08-24T15:53:56","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T19:53:56","slug":"cashel-farmhouse-cheesemakers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cashel-farmhouse-cheesemakers\/","title":{"rendered":"Meet the Makers of Ireland&#8217;s First Artisanal Blue Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We\u2019ve had five days of quality assurance visitors,\u201d says Sarah Furno, co-director of Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers, when I meet her at her dairy in Tipperary, Ireland. \u201cIt\u2019s been very, very, very intense.\u201d Furno, who crackles with energy and is as passionate about her business as any artisan you\u2019re likely to meet, seems OK with intense.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Besides running cheesemaking operations at Cashel, she\u2019s also involved with a variety of local and national food organizations\u2014including the Tipperary Food Producers Network and the Taste Council of Ireland\u2014and is mother to Leila (age four), Anna (age 11), and Luca (age 13). Her husband, Sergio Furno, is a tall, calm Italian who hails from a village near Arborio in Lombardy. They met at Aberystwyth University in Wales, where they would return from vacations at home with treats for one another: sacks of risotto rice for her, artisanal Irish cheese for him. That cheese wasn\u2019t just any cheese\u2014it was Cashel Blue, Ireland\u2019s first farmhouse blue. Sarah\u2019s parents, Louis and Jane Grubb, developed the groundbreaking wheel in 1984, and Sarah was the heir apparent to Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers. The only problem: She was set on building a career in wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33370\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Beechmount-Farm-23-1024x682.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4><strong>From Milk to Miracle<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Louis Grubb is square-shouldered, with a broad, crooked smile. Like Sarah, he didn\u2019t originally intend to carry on his parents\u2019 tradition of farming, but his father\u2019s premature death wrested him out of his new career at the Irish Agriculture and Food Development Authority. In 1979, Grubb transformed the 120-acre mixed Beechmount Farm into a dairy farm, establishing a herd of 90 Friesian cows, but he quickly became disillusioned. \u201cJust churning out volume is a bit boring,\u201d Grubb says. \u201cAnd you have to be highly efficient to make it work.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To make things more interesting\u2014and profitable\u2014Louis decided to turn to cheese-making. Enter Jane Grubb, Louis\u2019 wife. A trained chef, she dove headlong into cheese-making courses run by Veronica Steele, a pioneer of modern Irish farmhouse cheese. \u201cThe first day was the beginner\u2019s course,\u201d Jane recalls, before adding, with a genteel smile, \u201cand the second day was the advanced course.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33372\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1271\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2-768x488.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Rock-of-Cashel-surrounding-area-2-1024x651.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It was an exciting time for the Grubbs to enter the cheese world. The late 1970s saw the beginning of the Irish farmhouse cheese movement in West Cork, with pioneers like Durrus, Coolea, and Steele\u2019s Milleens all beginning production. Seeing a market flush with farmhouse washed-rind cheeses\u2014a nod to monastic Irish tradition\u2014the Grubbs tried a different tack, producing a Caerphilly, a Cheshire-style, and a quark over a four-year period. But growth was slow&#8230;until Jane had an idea.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Noting that Danish Blue was being imported into Ireland, she suggested the farm develop an Irish version and corner the market. Her notion was revolutionary: While there had been occasional attempts to mass-produce a blue cheese in Ireland, an artisan blue was rarer than a six-leaf clover. In fact, at that time, \u201cthe average Irish person didn\u2019t know what blue cheese was, and actually found it pretty scary,\u201d says Sarah. Checking out a recipe for Danish Blue from the local library, Jane experimented on the Grubbs\u2019 kitchen stove with an heirloom copper jam pan (later upgraded to a copper cider vat). Big linen bags full of draining curds dripped into buckets set on the concrete floor, while cheeses ripened in the earthen cellar below (until the Grubbs were advised that <em>Penicillium roqueforti<\/em>, the mold used in Cashel Blue, could undermine the house\u2019s structural stability).<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">After two years of fine-tuning, the result wasn\u2019t a true Danish Blue. Instead, it was something creamier and rounder\u2014more like a soft-edged Stilton, rich and spicy with a buttery texture. By happy accident, as is so often the case in cheesemaking, Jane had struck gold.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33371\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Portraits-30-1024x682.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4><strong>The Next Generation<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">These days, Cashel Blue is produced in a modern, professional creamery\u2014the rooms full of stainless steel equipment where the curd is cut, young cheeses are brined, and aged rounds are wrapped in distinctive gold foil are a far cry from the stripped-down, mad-scientist beginnings of the farmhouse kitchen.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 2016, Cashel Farmhouse Cheese-makers turned out 350 metric tons of cheese. But there was a time when the future of the company was uncertain. In 2003, Jane had taken a step back from the business. The years of waking at 3 a.m. to prep the starter culture had left her spent, with a bad case of cheesemaker\u2019s back to boot. Louis was running the company with only two employees: a full-time secretary and a part-time bookkeeper. And while Sarah and Sergio had permanently moved to Tipperary, they were set to launch a wine distribution business, not take over the family farm. \u201cThey wanted to do their own thing,\u201d says Louis. \u201cJust because one generation wants to do something doesn\u2019t mean the next generation should be forced to [follow suit].\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But they eventually did. Concerned that the sacrifice and energy that built Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers could go to waste at a time when other farmhouse blues were appearing on the market, Sarah and Sergio chose to join the family business\u2014but not without first adding their own spin.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33374\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Blue-Crozier-Blue-40-1024x682.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4><strong>Wine and Cheese<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201c[We needed] an injection of energy,\u201d says Sarah. \u201cWe\u2019d gotten into a cycle of farming, making cheese, and not looking after it post vat.\u201d For the wine professionals, an opportunity to apply their passion to cheese presented itself: developing an affinage program for Cashel Blue. \u201cInitially we set about tasting each vat of cheese at the point of blueing, assessing for acidity, texture, and flavor development,\u201d Sarah explains. Cheeses with high acidity and very clean flavors were segregated for long-term aging (16 to 22 weeks), those with creamier profiles were given medium-term aging (eight to 14 weeks), and the more unusual, fast-developing wheels were sold young to an eager domestic market. \u201cWe don\u2019t standardize because farmhouse cheese has variability,\u201d she says. \u201c[But] the role of&nbsp;<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">[affinage] is to manage that variability.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Today, Cashel has around 31,000 cheeses aging at any given time\u2014roughly double what was being stored in 2003. The dairy exports to countries all over the world and has a partnership with Kerrygold in the United States. It has even been eaten (and apparently enjoyed) by Queen Elizabeth II during a state visit to Ireland in 2012.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cCheese isn\u2019t one person. It\u2019s the sum of its parts. It\u2019s the sum of all our personalities, all our different energies, as well as the place, milk, and [other ingredients].\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33376\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers - Guert &amp; Pawel\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-Farmhouse-Cheesemakers-Guert-Pawel-8-1024x682.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4><strong>Community Spirit<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For Sarah, there\u2019s little romance surrounding the hardships of traditional cheesemaking. \u201cI saw my cousin and my mother burn out,\u201d she says. \u201cWrapping a cheese by hand doesn\u2019t make it better. In fact, it\u2019s a very tedious job.\u201d This thinking\u2014and the need to meet demand\u2014resulted in Cashel\u2019s semi-mechanized dairy. For Sergio and Sarah, it\u2019s a successful marriage of technology and tradition, and they\u2019re sensitive to the ways in which automation could threaten quality. The curds for Cashel Blue are hand-cut and hand-stirred in the vat, but afterward are automatically rotated when the cheese is drained in molds. The rotation apparatus was designed by Louis and can turn 400 cheeses simultaneously on small rods. The whey is also routed out to feed the bacteria at the on-site water treatment plant. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">After 48 hours, the cheeses are placed (by hand) into brine baths for 24 hours before being pierced (by machine) to allow the blue to spread. While over 95 percent of their business is Cashel Blue, the company also produces three other cheeses. Shepherd\u2019s Store, a semi-hard, sheep\u2019s milk Gouda-style, is a recent addition, as is Cashel Blue Organic, which uses milk from a single herd of local Montb\u00e9liarde, Friesian, and Norwegian Red cows. Crozier Blue, created by head cheese-maker Geurt van den Dikkenberg in 1992, remains Ireland\u2019s only sheep\u2019s milk blue. All of Cashel\u2019s cheeses are made using vegetarian rennet, a decision prompted by the UK\u2019s mad cow disease breakout of the 1990s. (The illness is most frequently transmitted to humans via foods contaminated with the brain, spinal cord, or digestive tract of infected animals; traditional rennet is derived from a calf\u2019s stomach.)<\/span><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-33373\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5.jpg\" alt=\"Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/Cashel-The-Old-Cheese-House-5-1024x682.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h4><strong>Eponymous Epilogue<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Toward the end of my visit, Sarah, her family, and I drive to the nearby town of Cashel, to visit the castle after which the cheese is named. At the foot of the Rock of Cashel\u2014a hulking medieval fortress perched on a small hill and surrounded by miles of flat countryside\u2014Sarah introduces me to Michael Cross and his mother, Margaret, who sell sheep\u2019s milk ice cream made with the same milk that goes into Crozier Blue and Shepherd\u2019s Store. We walk on, Sarah pointing out where the 500-strong sheep herd grazes while Sergio chases the children around the fields. As we gaze at the Rock of Cashel, an amalgam of buildings and architectural styles and purposes, I\u2019m reminded of something Sarah said just after we met: \u201cCheese isn\u2019t one person. It\u2019s the sum of its parts. It\u2019s the sum of all our personalities, all our different energies, as well as the place, milk, and [other ingredients].\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I ask Sarah if she would one day like her children to take over the business. \u201cOne should only get involved if you have something to contribute and if it excites you,\u201d she replies carefully. \u201cResponsibility alone is not sufficient a reason.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sounds just like her father.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>Photographed by Denis Vahey<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers is proof success can bring a family together.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":97,"featured_media":33375,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[930,1991,1961,1963,2565,2563,2566,1766,1010,2564,1992,320],"coauthors":[897],"class_list":["post-33363","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-blue-cheese","tag-cashel-blue","tag-cashel-farmhouse-cheesemakers","tag-chris-allsop","tag-dairy","tag-denis-vahey","tag-farming","tag-farmstead-cheese","tag-ireland","tag-irish","tag-irish-cheese","tag-farm"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Meet the Makers of Ireland&#039;s 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