{"id":33510,"date":"2018-03-13T13:00:28","date_gmt":"2018-03-13T17:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=33510"},"modified":"2022-01-26T13:31:46","modified_gmt":"2022-01-26T18:31:46","slug":"new-kind-blue-cheese-need-try","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/new-kind-blue-cheese-need-try\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Styles: Externally Rinded Blue"},"content":{"rendered":"

Although they tend to stay hidden, blue molds grow all around us. If we magnified forest soils, bales of hay, and forgotten loaves of bread, we might see them: clustered colonies of Penicillium roqueforti<\/em><\/a>. Up close they resemble otherworldly paintbrushes, their long filaments split into branches. And at the end of each branch, rotund, blue-green spores\u2014which give the colonies their characteristic hue\u2014cling on, awaiting a habitat of decaying organic matter to latch onto.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s likely that the mold discovered cheese before cheesemakers discovered the mold. Centuries ago, while growing naturally in the soils of the Combalou caves in southern France, P. roqueforti<\/em> found welcome homes on the wheels of cheese that locals stored in the humid, cool caverns. Once settled onto the wheels, tiny spores transformed into fruiting mycelium colonies that consumed fat, converting it into specific methyl ketone molecules that gave the cheeses a uniquely piquant flavor.<\/p>\n

Soon, cheesemakers began capitalizing on the blue mold\u2019s capacity to create unique aromas. They noticed that unlike most molds, this one displayed an ability to grow with just a little oxygen; as a result, it bloomed in the cracks and crevices left in unpressed wheels.<\/h4>\n

Makers let it colonize loaves of stale bread, which they crumbled into the curd. Instead of growing on the outside of the cheese\u2014a surface that tended to be a little too salty for its taste, anyway\u2014the P. roqueforti<\/em> flourished within. By the year 1070 that speckled blue wheel\u2014called Roquefort\u2014 was already appearing in written Carolingian texts; by the Enlightenment<\/em> it was being called the \u201cking of cheeses\u201d; in 1925 it became the first protected Appellation d\u2019Origine cheese in France.<\/p>\n

Fast-forward over 900 years since Roquefort\u2019s first written mention, and its namesake mold is now cultivated in laboratories. Cheesemakers across the world order packets of its spores directly to their doorsteps. Cheeses with P. <\/em>roqueforti<\/em> are widespread, but there\u2019s one thing they tend to have in common: the blue veins that course through their interior paste. For almost a millennia, makers directed the mold to the inside of wheels\u2014until a farmer in central Massachusetts had a crazy idea.<\/p>\n

\"Blue<\/a>

Blue Log, MountainTop Bleu, D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue, Hubbardston Blue, Bluebonnet<\/p><\/div>\n

A New Blue<\/h3>\n

In 1981, Bob Kilmoyer and his wife, Lettie, were teaching themselves how to make cheese. They\u2019d head into their kitchen at Westfield Farm with a gallon of goat\u2019s milk and, using rudimentary equipment, would make six or so Camembert-style disks at a time. Bob didn\u2019t know much about cheesemaking, but he wanted to create something new. So he decided to inoculate some of the milk with P.<\/em> roqueforti<\/em> mold spores, then separate those disks from the others to age in a mini cave\u2014a basket covered in plastic wrap poked with holes. The soft-ripened cheese\u2019s dense, melty paste left no oxygen-filled crevices in which the blue mold could flourish; instead, it began creeping up on the surface.<\/p>\n

The disk, which the Kilmoyers named Hubbardston Blue after their small Massachusetts town, confronted no shortage of skeptics, among them a Frenchman who visited Westfield Farm<\/a> and tasted it. His response? Not good.<\/p>\n

\u201cHe told them that it wasn\u2019t going to work, that the roqueforti<\/em> could not ripen properly on the surface,\u201d says Bob Stetson, who now runs Westfield Farm alongside his wife, Debby. According to her, that response only amped up Kilmoyer\u2019s determination. \u201cA challenge from a Frenchman,\u201d she says. \u201cHe was like, yes I will.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Kilmoyers decided to enter Hubbardston Blue into the American Cheese Society<\/a> (ACS) Judging & Competition\u2014but there, too, the cheese confronted doubters. One year it was discarded when the blue mold was mistaken for unintended spoilage; another year points were deducted because of a lack of blue veins. \u201cIt didn\u2019t look like anything anyone had ever seen,\u201d Lettie Kilmoyer told an audience during an ACS conference speech in 1994.<\/p>\n

But people were buying it. Encouraged by positive feedback from mongers, the Kilmoyers continued experimenting. They began inoculating creamy fresh ch\u00e8vre curd with blue mold spores before rolling it into a log shape, making a second cheese called Blue Log and a smaller version called Bluebonnet. To improve consistency in all the blues, they noted when a particularly good strain of P. roqueforti<\/em> spores arrived from their supplier, preserving it and using it for months.<\/p>\n

As buzz about blue rinds began to spread, the American Cheese Society caught on, and created an entirely new contest category: External Blue-Molded\/Rinded Cheeses\u2014a game-changer for the Kilmoyers. In 1987, Hubbardston Blue was awarded Best in Show, besting artisanal heavyweights in all other categories from across America. In 1996, Bluebonnet received the same award. Bob Stetson estimates that Westfield Farm\u2019s blues have collectively garnered between 50 and 75 ACS medals since the category was established.<\/p>\n

\"Blue<\/a><\/p>\n

A Balanced Blue<\/h3>\n

While gaining recognition in the cheese community was one challenge, consumer acceptance has been another. To this day, Debby Stetson still gets calls from panicked customers who are about to serve the cheese, wondering if they should be cutting off its blue fuzz.<\/p>\n

Yet despite a jarring appearance reminiscent of forgotten stale bread, externally rinded blues tend to offer subtler flavors than their veined counterparts. \u201cIt\u2019s a blue cheese for people who don\u2019t like blue cheeses,\u201d says Dallas-based Mozzarella Company<\/a>\u2019s Paula Lambert of her Deep Ellum Blue.<\/p>\n

Lambert had been making a Taleggio style square, and when it grew blue mold accidentally, customers began asking for squares with the defect. So, she started bathing the cheese in a P. roqueforti<\/em> solution before aging. When the blue mold is fuzzy enough, she pats it down with some olive oil to control the growth. The result?  \u201cIt has a faint blue cheese taste, but it\u2019s very smooth,\u201d she says. \u201cIf you needled it or put the blue mold in the curds, it would be totally different.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sarah Spring, owner of Spring Day Creamery<\/a> in Durham, Maine, was going for a similar nuance in her externally rinded D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue. \u201cPeople who don\u2019t like blue tend to like it,\u201d she says. \u201cThere\u2019s no salty veining that\u2019s in-your-face.\u201d A close look at D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue\u2019s surface reveals blue mold patches tempered by white, cloudlike splotches and zones of gray wrinkles\u2014a mottled mix that tends to characterize many cheeses in the young category.<\/p>\n

\"Blue<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cBlue mold is known for being communicative with other cheeses,\u201d says Spring, who ages D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue alongside other styles in a \u201cnatural rind\u201d cave. While she doesn\u2019t inoculate milk for D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue with white Penicillium<\/em> or Geotrichum <\/em>molds, they colonize the disks anyway. \u201cI used to be a teacher, and I think of the molds as uncooperative middle schoolers\u2014they all want to fidget and play with each other,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Likewise, at Mystic Cheese Company in Groton, Conn., cheesemaker Brian Civitello sprays young, stracchino-style squares of cheese with a cocktail of yeasts and bacterias\u2014no blue mold spores included. After two weeks maturing in his shipping pod turned aging cellar, the squares pick up molds from other blue cheeses in the cave, developing splashes of aquamarine fuzz. \u201cWe have a tiny ripening room, and such a heavy presence of the P.<\/em> roqueforti<\/em> mold that we don\u2019t need to continually inoculate milk,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

All that mold-fidgeting created a challenge for Mike Koch and Pablo Solanet of Firefly Farms<\/a> in Accident, Md., who first set out to create an externally molded blue pyramid, MountainTop Bleu. The pyramid\u2019s proximity to a Brie-style cheese during aging, however, quickly resulted in cross contamination. P. Roqueforti<\/em> is a cousin of other Penicillium<\/em> molds like camemberti<\/em> and candidum<\/em>, which create fluffy white rinds; thriving at similar pH and temperature, the molds often grow at once on the same cheese.<\/p>\n

Koch and Solanet eventually decided to allow both molds to flourish simultaneously, aiming for a balance. Each day they watch the pyramids change color as colonies battle it out. First the P. roqueforti<\/em> mold takes hold, but then the candidum<\/em> starts to cover it. \u201cWhen it\u2019s young, you can see the blue through the white, and then the white gets snowy and downy and covers the blue,\u201d Koch says. \u201cBut then at the end of the ripening, the blue sort of returns.\u201d As mold evolves, flavor changes, too\u2014from lactic and silky with delicate blue notes to robust and mushroomy with a blue piquancy that Koch says \u201creally shines.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Blue<\/a><\/p>\n

Kathryn Spann of Rougemont, N.C.\u2013based Prodigal Farm<\/a> compares the evolution of blue mold on the rind of her Bearded Lady\u2014a lactic cheese inoculated with Geotrichum<\/em> and rubbed with a mix of ash and P. roqueforti<\/em> \u2014to the growth of a forest. \u201cThere\u2019s a succession as the forest grows up,\u201d she says. \u201cFirst certain plants come in, and then other plants come in, and the trees grow and they shade out the original plants so those can\u2019t grow anymore\u2014that\u2019s analogous to the succession on a rind.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sarah Spring also sees the mix of molds growing on her externally rinded blues as a reflection of nature\u2014in this case, the splotchy gray rocks that speckle the islands of nearby Penobscot Bay. D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue captures their likeness so closely, Spring says, that she sometimes displays it on a platter amongst rocks she\u2019s collected from a local island and challenges customers to pick out the cheese. \u201cIt has all of the colors that show up on the beach,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

The mottled nature of so many externally rinded blues hints at another trait they share in common: In large part, they\u2019re made by small-scale artisans who are carving out space in a category that remains extremely limited. And because blue molds like P. roqueforti<\/em> grow naturally in many environments, they\u2019ve likely been colonizing cheese wheels accidentally for hundreds of years, blooming secretly in natural rinds.<\/p>\n

In that way, makers like Spring are just giving a natural process a bit of a boost. \u201cD\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue is a reflection of where I live, in an old farmhouse,\u201d says Spring. \u201cI don\u2019t have state-of-the-art anything; I don\u2019t toy with Mother Nature.\u201d According to Stetson, developing an automated production process for externally rinded blues could result in increased consistency in the final product\u2014 a more regular balance between different mold strains, for example.<\/p>\n

But he doesn\u2019t think the unique style has enough of a market to support an industrial-scale version right now. Instead, he\u2019s satisfied with the small niche Westfield Farm has helped establish for the past few decades. \u201cIf people want to buy a blue-veined cheese, they\u2019ve got hundreds to choose from,\u201d he says. But blues that ripen cheese from the outside are more elusive, their raucous, ever-changing surfaces a reminder of the moldy organisms that hide among us.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/h3>\n

Hubbardston Blue
\n<\/strong>Westfield Farm<\/a> in Hubbardston, Mass.
\nPasteurized cow’s or goat\u2019s milk
\nThe original externally rinded blue is a dainty disk covered in powdery, blue-gray mold, which imparts complex flavors reminiscent of truffles and mushrooms, with a blue piquancy and lactic tang.<\/p>\n

Blue Bonnet
\n<\/strong>Westfield Farm in Hubbardston, Mass.
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nWith age, the soft, featherlight core of this one-ounce button is gradually overtaken by an expanding creamline. Flavor yields aromas of lemon and stone, melting into a bitter finish.<\/p>\n

Blue Log
\n<\/strong>Westfield Farm in Hubbardston, Mass.
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nA larger-format version of Bluebonnet, Blue Log has more of the whipped fresh ch\u00e8vre paste reminiscent of lemon cheesecake, and a slightly grassier profile than its diminutive sibling.<\/p>\n

D\u00e9j\u00e0 Blue
\n<\/strong>Spring Day Creamery<\/a> in Durham, Maine
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nWe love how this gray, mottled cheese resembles a rock on the beach, while its flavor\u2014briny and savory, with notes of soy sauce and seaweed\u2014reminds us of the ocean.<\/p>\n

Monte Enebro
\n<\/strong>Queser\u00edas del Ti\u00e9tar<\/a> in \u00c1vila, Spain
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nLarger than your average externally rinded blue, this Spanish log clocks in at almost three pounds. On the palate, it starts out mild before intensifying, with notes of buttered popcorn and zesty hits of blue from the pleasantly musty rind.<\/p>\n

MountainTop Bleu
\n<\/strong>Firefly Farms<\/a> in Accident, Md.
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nWhile the blue is barely detectable in the white rind of this mold-ripened pyramid, its tiny hint of sharpness is a lovely complement to the cheese\u2019s bright flavors of grass and milk.<\/p>\n

Bearded Lady
\n<\/strong>Prodigal Farm<\/a> in Rougemont, N.C.
\nPasteurized goat\u2019s milk
\nThis wrinkly-rind button smells of fresh mushrooms and tastes of vanilla and minerals, with mild yeasty notes and a lemon finish.<\/p>\n

Deep Ellum Blue
\n<\/strong>Mozzarella Company<\/a> in Dallas, TX
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nA scaly, blue-green exterior offers a bold punch at first bite, but the snow-white paste of this dense cheese is mild and creamy.<\/p>\n

Sea Change
\n<\/strong>Mystic Cheese<\/a> in Groton, Conn.
\nPasteurized cow\u2019s milk
\nThe mesmerizing blue-green white rind of Mystic\u2019s square-shaped crescenza style surrounds a gooey, creamy paste that boasts notes of hops and mushroom confit.<\/p>\n

Photographed by Nina Gallant
\n<\/strong>Styled by Chantal Lambeth<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

These externally ripened cheeses are basically blues turned inside-out.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":33511,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[1091,1291,930,2690,991,1235,2686,2691,1920,2689,1776,2687,2688],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-33510","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","tag-american-cheese-society","tag-bleu-cheese","tag-blue-cheese","tag-firefly-farm","tag-france","tag-molly-mcdonough","tag-monte-enebro","tag-mozzarella-company","tag-mystic-cheese-company","tag-nina-gallant","tag-prodigal-farm","tag-roqueforti","tag-westfield-farm"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe New Kind of Blue Cheese You Need to 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