{"id":34096,"date":"2018-05-09T07:45:54","date_gmt":"2018-05-09T11:45:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=34096"},"modified":"2021-08-24T15:49:42","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T19:49:42","slug":"flavor-science-shape-sound-taste","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/flavor-science-shape-sound-taste\/","title":{"rendered":"How Shapes & Sounds Can Change What You Taste"},"content":{"rendered":"

T<\/span>here are a few historical precedents for food and sound pairings: a 15th century French duke who surprised court guests with 28 musicians squeezed into a pie; wheels of Austrian Grottenhofer Auslese cheese maturing alongside a constant stream of Gregorian chanting. But for the most part, it\u2019s a new idea. Its seeds are being sown in moments of epiphany among curious minds: Adapting to dining solo, a recent divorc\u00e9e dons headphones while eating a steak; a psychology professor ponders the crunch of Pringles while drinking at a bar; a video game music composer imagines an asparagus opera; a group of senior citizens discovers Coolio while eating lava cake.<\/p>\n

Food + Music<\/h2>\n

My own epiphany involves a hoppy brown ale and a cello. I\u2019m huddled around an art gallery stage at an event hosted by Original Gravity<\/a>, a Boston-based non-profit that promotes local composers by pairing their music with beer. For tonight\u2019s concert, neighborhood brewers have concocted suds inspired by specific songs. The crowd sips samples from the evening\u2019s flight as musicians perform.<\/p>\n

\n

\"abstract<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

One song, \u201cDionysian Dance\u201d by David Cucchiara, is mesmerizing. It\u2019s melancholy but energetic, the warm, silky tones of its legato strings juxtaposed with a deep plucking. The beer, made at nearby Bone Up Brewing Co., is cloudy and brown, sweet initially but with a bitter, woodsy undertone. The experience is hard to describe. As I listen and sip, that bitterness seems amplified by the cello’s sonorous hum\u2014like a secret being revealed. Later, I ask the brewer, Jared Kiraly, what he and co-owner, Liz Kiraly, aimed to express in the drink. “The song reminded us of excited conversations engaged in hushed conspirational tones,” he says.<\/p>\n

Sounds about right. But I wonder how it all worked\u2014are my ears and taste buds in cahoots, or is my brain playing a trick on me? In search of an answer, I turn to the wine world. As a psychologist and competitive wine taster, Oxford University researcher Janice Wang<\/a> has spent years studying wine and music pairings. She tells me that it follows the same principles as wine and food: Just as we pair big reds with bold dishes and delicate whites with lighter plates, the cabernet sauvignon begs for a full orchestra, while a mineral-y riesling fits with ethereal harp.<\/p>\n

Wang explains that sounds can also draw out different aspects of flavor\u2014high pitches promoting sweetness, low pitches accentuating bitterness, high tempos boosting sourness. \u201cIf I want to bring out fruity or acidic notes in a wine, I\u2019ll pair it with music that\u2019s more high pitched, or faster,\u201d she says. \u201cIf I want to bring out the deeper, darker dried fruit or chocolate notes, then I probably want something lower-pitched, like cello.\u201d No surprise what the cello did to my brown ale, then; Wang says the same principles apply to other music pairings, from symphonies and beer to R&B and cheese.  <\/p>\n

\n
\n

\u201cIf I want to bring out the deeper, darker dried fruit or chocolate notes, then I probably want something lower-pitched, like cello.<\/em>\u201d<\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n
\n

Flavor + Science<\/h2>\n

Wang\u2019s claims are backed up by solid evidence compiled by her colleagues at Oxford\u2019s Crossmodal Research Laboratory<\/a>. The lab, run by psychology professor Charles Spence, studies how multiple senses interact to generate experience.<\/p>\n

Spence didn\u2019t always work with food. In the early 2000s, he was studying the \u201cparchment skin illusion,\u201d the idea that muffling the sound of one\u2019s hands rubbing together upped the perception of their softness. One night at a bar, as he eyed some potato chips, the thought struck: Why not test the same principle\u2014sound\u2019s impact on touch\u2014in the context of eating?<\/p>\n

\n

\"abstract<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Spence recruited volunteers willing to eat 200 Pringles in front of a microphone while rating each chip for freshness and crispness. As subjects bit in, he fed real-time crunching sounds into their headphones, toying with pitch and volume. Although all chips were the same, subjects rated them differently: Higher crunching sound volume and pitch were associated with greater freshness rating. In other words, sound influenced tactile sensation\u2014and the pleasure of eating.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve always thought of my brain as a kind of walkie-talkie that receives transmissions directly from my senses. (\u201cCome in, brain,\u201d says the nose, \u201cthose chips are delicious.\u201d \u201cAlert, brain,\u201d says the ears, \u201cyou like that song.\u201d) But the lab\u2019s research reveals that the signals are a bit more jumbled, exhibiting a kind of co-channel interference in the subconscious.<\/p>\n

Some of the most curious jumbles relate to taste and sound. The researchers have found that in the presence of airplane noise, subjects find the sweetness of food diminished and umami elevated; when listening to low-pitched music, toffee becomes more bitter; different styles of music can up the sweetness or the creaminess of chocolate. Other cross-communications reveal the influence of texture, weight, and imagery. For instance, subjects rate cake eaten off a round (rather than square) plate as sweeter; a cookie seems crunchier when served on a rough-textured dish; yogurt is judged denser and more expensive when tasted with a lightweight spoon; a bite tastes saltier when sampled off a knife.<\/p>\n

Given those revelations, is it so difficult to imagine a future in which the art of the pairing extends beyond food? Not at all. It\u2019s already here.<\/p>\n

\n
\n

In other words, sound influenced tactile sensation\u2014and the pleasure of eating.<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n
\n

Science + Art<\/h2>\n

Connecticut-based entrepreneur Barbara Werner didn\u2019t need a university lab to point out the connection between sound and taste. Navigating the unfamiliar landscape of solo dining following a divorce several years ago, she tried listening to music on her headphones during a steakhouse dinner. It was the best steak she\u2019d ever had, she says\u2014until the track changed. \u201cI was drooling over this thing, sawing at it,\u201d she says. \u201cThen all of a sudden, that gorgeous steak was just a piece of meat.\u201d<\/p>\n

Determined to understand why, Werner began keeping tabs on every meal (cooking method, protein density, sauce type, spice level), plus her favorite song to eat it by (tempo, primary instrument, amplitude, frequency). Over time, she created a point system based on emerging patterns. To find the perfect pairing, she matches the number of points in a meal to a song with the same number. Her company, Musical Pairing<\/a>, built the formula into a smartphone app and tested it in popup dinners around the country. Werner\u2019s most successful combination? A chocolate lava cake alongside \u201cGangsta\u2019s Paradise.\u201d \u201cI\u2019ve had 70-year-old women rocking out to Coolio because we were eating a rich cake,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\"illustration<\/div>\n

Werner isn\u2019t the only entrepreneur bringing musical pairing to the masses. When I meet composer Ben Houge, he\u2019s exhausted from curating an event at Boston\u2019s Symphony Hall the night before: a \u201cfood opera<\/a>\u201d that combined the overture to \u00c9tienne M\u00e9hul\u2019s Les Amazones with dinner. There, diners sipped creamy mushroom soup alongside a smooth cello. They also enjoyed blue cheese cr\u00e8me br\u00fbl\u00e9e during a musical number with shorter, contrasting phrases. (Houge had found a correlation between the bracing music and the blue cheese, both being \u201csort of aggressive…but rewarding when you get used to it.\u201d)<\/p>\n

Since his first public event in 2012\u2014a collaboration with Boston chef Jason Bond to create a four-course \u201casparagus opera\u201d\u2014Houge has been designing similar experiences, with an approach that differs markedly from that of Werner. With a background as a video game music composer, he sees fine dining much like a virtual world, or a film: a space where sound can be tweaked to bring out aspects of a meal. Like video game players, diners navigate each meal in unpredictable ways, and Houge is focusing on incorporating technology\u2014from iPads to responsive dishware\u2014that helps synchronize evolving sounds with a meal\u2019s pace.<\/p>\n

\n
\n

He sees fine dining much like a virtual world, or a film: a space where sound can be tweaked to bring out aspects of a meal.<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n
\n

Though drawing inspiration from science, Houge\u2019s food operas are less about rigorous experimentation and more about aesthetic experience. When it comes to the human senses, he tells me, artists typically focus on sight and sound, relegating taste and smell to the realm of basic and animalistic. \u201cPeople are now questioning those assumptions in interesting ways,\u201d he says. \u201cArtists are looking at what we can communicate with taste and the chemical senses. At the same time, chefs are starting to think about the theatrical potential of a meal.\u201d<\/p>\n

One such chef, Charles Michel<\/a>, worked in Michelin-starred restaurant kitchens in France and Italy before reinventing himself as an artist. His chosen medium was food, and after his \u201csalad painting\u201d caught the eye of Charles Spence, Michel was invited to the Oxford lab, where he spent three years exploring food aesthetics. Today he is designing utensils based on lab findings to enhance eating pleasure.<\/p>\n

To Michel, all of this is based on one fundamental pairing: that of art and science. \u201cArt communicates beauty and meaning, and science is what gives us evidence to understand how to make more beauty and more meaning,\u201d he says. \u201cBy combining both, we can come up with innovations that maximize the enjoyment we get from food.\u201d While there\u2019s still plenty of mystery surrounding the interaction of senses in the brain, the goal among \u201ccrossmodalists\u201d like Michel is to connect people to their own senses, expanding mindfulness in an age of harried eating.<\/p>\n

Back at the beer and music event, one performance stands out. So far the night\u2019s pairings have been unanimously based on similarity, until a song called \u201cRise of a City\u201d begins. It\u2019s a noisy, urgent number performed on an electric guitar and a robot-manned percussion set, paired with a maple syrup lager aged in bourbon oak. It feels disjointed; the song transports me to an industrial dystopia, while the beer recalls a resinous forest.<\/p>\n

Turns out, the clash is the point. \u201cElectronics versus maple trees…the idea is to contrast,\u201d explains Cambridge Brewing Company\u2019s brewmaster Will Meyers of his choice, \u201cto embrace the areas where contemporary society and nature overlap.\u201d Perhaps it\u2019s like pairing a dense, salty cheese with a sweet, flowing honey; some of the best combinations are based on contrast. Does the same principle apply outside of food? We\u2019re still figuring it out, but maybe that\u2019s the whole point: A pairing works when it makes us think.<\/p>\n

\n

The Brie en Cro\u00fbte Experiment<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

To illustrate Musical Pairing, Barbara Werner tells me to try a bite of brie wrapped in pastry dough with some fig jam (\u201cMy favorite thing on Earth,\u201d she says). Per her formula, we add four points for a soft cheese, one point for the sweet fig jam, one point for the cow\u2019s milk, and two points for the pastry, for a \u201cfood pairing number\u201d (FPN) of eight.<\/p>\n

\u201cSo, you\u2019re going to look for music that\u2019s also an eight,\u201d she says. She thinks out loud, detailing traits that could yield that high of a number: \u201csomething with a mellow beat, lower volume, tenor voice.\u201d Her suggested pairing? \u201cDream a Little Dream of Me\u201d by Michael Bubl\u00e9, or \u201cMidnight Rider\u201d by the Allman Brothers.<\/p>\n

To prove the point, Werner suggests mixing it up. \u201cTry having the brie alone, with crackers. It\u2019s going to be much lighter because you won\u2019t have the pastry,\u201d she says. \u201cYou can still have the Allman Brothers, but instead, play \u2018Ramblin\u2019 Man.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

The \u201cmusical pairing number\u201d (MPN) matters irrespective of genre, she adds: \u201cYou could play Eminem\u2019s \u2018The Monster\u2019 with Rihanna and it will still enhance the brie.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

Want more about the science of taste? Explore the ways aroma science<\/a> is shaking up food pairings, too, or learn a little bit about food pairing theory<\/a>.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Illustrations by Tom Jay<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Using sound and touch, artists and scientists are creating unconventional food pairings\u2014and changing the way we experience taste.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":34099,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[3429,3426,3428,3430,3434,3421,3433,3431,3427,3422,3423,3432,3425,3424],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-34096","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-asparagus-opera","tag-ben-houge","tag-charles-michel","tag-charles-spence","tag-crossmodal-research-laboratory","tag-crossmodalism","tag-flavor-science","tag-janice-wang","tag-musical-pairing","tag-science-of-food","tag-science-of-taste","tag-sound-and-eating","tag-weird-food-pairings","tag-why-food-pairings-work"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHow Shapes & Sounds Can Change What You Taste - 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