{"id":34844,"date":"2018-07-23T07:45:37","date_gmt":"2018-07-23T11:45:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=34844"},"modified":"2021-08-23T16:54:08","modified_gmt":"2021-08-23T20:54:08","slug":"chef-paco-pajares-poncelet-cheese-bar-madrid","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/chef-paco-pajares-poncelet-cheese-bar-madrid\/","title":{"rendered":"The Madrid Chef Focused on Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"paco<\/p>\n

Y<\/span>o soy un gato,\u201d says Paco Pajares, chef at Poncelet Cheese Bar<\/a> in Madrid. Gato<\/em>, or \u201ccat,\u201d is what multigenerational madrile\u00f1os<\/em> (Madrid locals) call themselves. It\u2019s a nickname inherited from a legend about an 11th-century soldier who climbed the wall of Moors-occupied Madrid like a cat. \u201cMy mother, my grandmother, my great-grandfather [were all born here]. I\u2019m one of the very few [true locals] nowadays.\u201d<\/p>\n

We meet in the main dining room of Poncelet, an open, airy space with colorful geometric decorations and a decidedly sixties vibe. In front of a living vertical garden with over 500 varieties of plants lies the cava de quesos\u2014the cheese cave. Kept between 41 and 46 degrees Fahrenheit, it can hold up to 150 wheels.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Paco

Chef Paco Pajares<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Pajares\u2019 interest in the culinary industry began at a young age. \u201cWe thought Paco would go into computers,\u201d says Victor Pajares, Paco\u2019s older brother and de-facto father figure since the death of their dad in 1996. \u201cBut he said he wanted to study cooking. Back then\u2014in this country\u2014no one even touched the topic of gastronomy. Working in hospitality was even looked down upon. He started when no one understood, and it was difficult.\u201d<\/p>\n

When Pajares enrolled in IES Hotel Escuela (a popular school for chefs) in the late 1990s, he quickly realized that theory wasn\u2019t for him. \u201cTo be seated for six hours didn\u2019t appeal to me,\u201d he says. \u201cIf they had explained things during the practice hour, that would have been much better.\u201d He failed his first year.<\/p>\n

But giving up wasn\u2019t an option. \u201cI\u2019ve been raised to finish everything I start,\u201d he says. True to his word, he repeated that year and eventually graduated. Making food was the highlight of his studies, and as time went by it became the focus of his life. \u201cI\u2019ve had to leave behind many things: friends, weekends,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s kind of like when you get a girlfriend\u2014you start dating and slowly leave everything else behind.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n

\u201cHe\u2019s always been a very humble, dedicated chef, and that\u2019s what makes him great.\u201d<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Pajares\u2019 dedication piqued the interest of Joaqu\u00edn Felipe, one of Spain\u2019s top chefs. Felipe hired him as a kitchen assistant at East 47, a local landmark, and Pajares quickly ascended to section chef. When Felipe moved to another restaurant, he took Pajares with him. \u201cPaco is very responsible,\u201d says Felipe, now the executive chef of Florida Retiro, a culinary complex in the middle of Madrid\u2019s iconic El Retiro Park. \u201cHe\u2019s always been a very humble, dedicated chef, and that\u2019s what makes him great.\u201d For Pajares, working with Felipe was a gift: \u201cHe\u2019s the one who taught me to be responsible, to be a zealot when it comes to cleanliness and order,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\"Chef<\/p>\n

For many Spanish chefs, training isn\u2019t complete without a stint in the Basque Country<\/a>\u2019s San Sebasti\u00e1n region. With Felipe\u2019s help, Pajares secured a position\u2014once again starting as a kitchen assistant\u2014with Juan Mari Arzak, a legend of the Spanish restaurant scene. After 10 months, Pajares came back to Madrid ready to run his own kitchen.<\/p>\n

\n
\"\"

Poncelet Cheese Bar’s vertical garden<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

At Poncelet Cheese Bar, curds are the focus. Pajares\u2019 recipes run the gamut from risotto to Spanish croquettes made with four kinds of cheese to tuna tartare with guacamole and Manchego<\/a>. His inspiration comes from moments of lucidez<\/em>, or \u201clucidity\u201d\u2014instants that appear during the normal day-to-day routine. \u201cOne moment you are with friends at a neighborhood tapas<\/a> bar and something catches your eye,\u201d he says. \u201cI believe the more you think about things and try to find them, the less they\u2019ll come to you.\u201d<\/p>\n

While spontaneous in his creativity, Pajares is more particular when it comes to attitude. For him, elegance is important, and arrogance doesn\u2019t belong in the kitchen. \u201cYou have to treat everything with love\u2014treat 300 grams of caviar with the same love as one carrot. Elegance is working with precision so that you aren\u2019t too sure of yourself when you\u2019re in it.\u201d<\/p>\n

His co-workers agree. Sous chef Pedro Delmas has worked with Pajares since the beginning. Brought on as a kitchen assistant, he admits he\u2019s had a lot to learn. \u201cFor me, Paco is a reference,\u201d he says. \u201cI came in from a cocina de batalla<\/em> [restaurant where speed overrides quality and presentation], and here everything was completely the opposite. Paco got the best out of me.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pajares knows that many see him as a serious person, but admits he is more of a trozo de pan<\/em>, which literally means a \u201cpiece of bread\u201d but is used to describe a loving and caring person. Among his dreams are to finally bring his 92-year-old grandmother to his restaurant, to cook for Karim Benzema, a Real Madrid soccer player, and\u2014at some point\u2014to work abroad. \u201cYou have to have an open mind,\u201d he says. \u201cAnd [I\u2019m from] a very open-minded city.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n

Two Recipes by Chef Paco Pajares<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Smoked Idiaz\u00e1bal Pincho<\/a><\/h4>\n

The smoky flavor and buttery texture of Idiaz\u00e1bal complement the tartness of the tomatoes and pickled peppers.<\/p>\n

\"lettuce<\/p>\n

Mixed Lettuce Salad with Parmigiano and Jam\u00f3n Ib\u00e9rico<\/a><\/h4>\n

Simple yet still indulgent, this salad can also be made with prosciutto instead of jam\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

Photography by Ivan Raga<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

At Poncelet Cheese Bar in Madrid, Chef Paco Pajares makes cheese the focus.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11,"featured_media":34848,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[3386,31],"tags":[4080,4117,4115,3927,3926,3925,3924],"coauthors":[4116],"class_list":["post-34844","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chefs","category-recipes","tag-chef-paco-pajares","tag-chefs-dish","tag-juan-mari-arzak","tag-madrid-cheese-bar","tag-madrid-chef","tag-paco-pajares","tag-poncelet-cheese-bar"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Madrid Chef Focused on Cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Chef Paco Pajares makes cheese the focus at Poncelet Cheese Bar, a Madrid restaurant outfitted 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