{"id":34854,"date":"2018-07-26T07:45:57","date_gmt":"2018-07-26T11:45:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=34854"},"modified":"2021-08-24T15:36:01","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T19:36:01","slug":"cheesemaking-spain-canary-islands","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheesemaking-spain-canary-islands\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheesemaking on Spain\u2019s Canary Islands"},"content":{"rendered":"

N<\/span>ow, we are passing between two worlds,\u201d announces Canarian cheese expert Isidoro Jim\u00e9nez as we leave the beach town of Maspalomas behind. The image of sun-drenched boulevards speckled with meandering tourists shrinks in the rear-view mirror of our 4×4; suddenly, the landscape is void\u2014nothing but shrubs, cacti, and a dirt road that twists and turns beneath a blue sky.<\/p>\n

When I notice the traces of crumbling terraces in the hillsides, Jim\u00e9nez explains that the landscape around us was once very different. It was all farmland\u2014here, it was full of tomatoes\u2014until the economy of the Canary Islands changed in the mid-20th century. On the island of Gran Canaria, as in much of the Spanish archipelago, tourist resorts began to spring up on the coasts. Residents flocked to the seaside looking for work. \u201cMany people abandoned agriculture, abandoned the countryside,\u201d Jim\u00e9nez says.<\/p>\n

\n

These islands yield countless surprises\u2014majestic goats with fabulous toupees, houses carved into volcanic craters, and exotic wheels of cheese I\u2019ve never seen the likes of anywhere else.<\/em><\/h4>\n<\/blockquote>\n
\n

\"Queseria<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

It\u2019s no surprise that the Canary Islands\u2019 coasts became a tourist magnet. Perched 600 miles southwest of Spain in the Atlantic Ocean, these volcanic landmasses\u201467 miles off Morocco at their easternmost point\u2014offer a reliably mild and sunny climate even when mainland Europe is dreary and cold. The sandy beaches and red-gold hills of the eastern islands recall the Sahara desert; travel west, and the islands become greener, their terraces overflowing with bananas, avocados, mangos, and coffee. When I visit in mid-March, bone-chilled and vitamin D\u2013deficient from the New England winter, I feel a primal urge to lie in the sand and eat bananas.<\/p>\n

But that\u2019s not why I\u2019m here. I came to find out what\u2019s still lingering in the hills and hiding in the caves\u2014what Jim\u00e9nez describes as <\/i>the Canary Islands\u2019 \u201cother world.\u201d <\/i>With just a slight detour off the beaten path, these islands yield countless surprises\u2014majestic goats with fabulous toupees, houses carved into volcanic craters, and exotic wheels of cheese I\u2019ve never seen the likes of anywhere else.<\/p>\n

Melting Pot <\/b><\/h3>\n

Away from the beach towns, ruminants rule the hills. \u201cShepherding is the oldest way of life here,\u201d says Rafa Molina, a Gran Canarian who offers guided hikes and excursions with his tour company, Etno Experience Canarias.<\/p>\n

For thousands of years, communities of indigenous people known as the Guanches <\/i>inhabited the archipelago, herding goats and sheep for meat and milk. While they likely shared roots with North African Berbers, the Guanches\u2019 origins remain largely a mystery; after Spanish conquistadores arrived in the late 15th century, their language and culture quickly disappeared. But hints of their legacy linger in the maze-like petroglyphs etched into seaside boulders, in unfamiliar words and place-names, and in culinary traditions.<\/p>\n

\n
\"cheese

Queso Majorero PDO (Photo courtesy of aaabbbccc\/shutterstock.com)<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The Spanish conquest of the Canaries coincided with that of the Americas, and the islands quickly became the jumping-off point for European explorers, including Christopher Columbus; it served as a final place to stock up on fresh water and food before crossing the Atlantic. Colonies that sprung up in the New World precipitated a growing demand for cheese, and soon ships were departing Canarian ports filled with firm, aged wheels that could survive the journey.<\/p>\n

In the Canarian highlands, new settlers from Spain and elsewhere in Europe took up shepherding and cheesemaking to meet the demand, cultivating local ruminant breeds and drawing from a mix of dairy traditions. Their cheeses were a m\u00e9lange, Jim\u00e9nez says: \u201cThey integrated elements from other places, intertwining techniques.\u201d And they mirrored the multifaceted cuisine of the archipelago as a whole: \u201cEven though we are so small and isolated, we have always had contact with people from all over the world,\u201d Molina says. <\/span><\/p>\n

On first glance, Canarian wheels strike me as echoing Spanish tradition, but a closer look reveals unique traits. On the island of Fuerteventura, for example, makers of goat\u2019s milk Queso Majorero often coat the outside of wheels with gofio<\/i>, a milled flour made from toasted grains that was a dietary staple of the native Guanches. On Gran Canaria, wheels of mixed-milk Flor de Gu\u00eda are rendered soft and oozing from the milk\u2019s coagulation via thistle flower, a practice common in Portugal. Cheesemaking is also shaped by the vast range of endemic flora: On La Palma, goat\u2019s milk Queso Palmero is sometimes smoked using native Canarian pine needles, almond shells, or the dried vascular structure of the prickly pear.<\/p>\n

\"Jos\u00e9

Jos\u00e9 Mendoza Mendoza and his daughter Bel\u00e9n manually press wheels of sheep’s milk cheese.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Etched in Stone<\/b><\/h3>\n

Despite a changing economy in recent decades, many unique dairy traditions persist\u2014and not long after leaving Gran Canaria\u2019s coast, we turn off the main road in search of them. We skirt across a plateau, past fluffy sheep grazing on early spring grass, toward an odd white structure that protrudes from a rock.<\/p>\n

It has the fa\u00e7ade of a house, but when we step through the door, we\u2019re in a cave. Surrounded by craggy walls, a family of five bends over wheels of fresh sheep\u2019s milk curds, massaging and pressing them into molds atop traditional wooden tables called queseras<\/i>, <\/i>carved with Canarian motifs. Patriarch Jos\u00e9 Mendoza Mendoza digs in with his fists, while his daughter, Bel\u00e9n, leans into a second wheel using her knees, Nike sneakers splayed out behind her.<\/p>\n

The Mendozas are among 20 remaining families on Gran Canaria who live as nomads, following the way of life that sustained local cheesemakers for centuries. They move their animals with the seasons, sleeping in cave-houses like this one\u2014traditional structures that utilize the island\u2019s porous volcanic geology. In late winter and early spring, they\u2019re here on a sunny south-central plateau; in summer, they\u2019ll move their 300 sheep toward the summits of the island\u2019s center; in fall, they\u2019ll return to their home base in the lush, humid north; and in early winter, they\u2019ll head toward the west coast.<\/p>\n

\n
\"cave

The Mendoza family’s cave house in the Gran Canarian highlands<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

It might seem excessive to move constantly on a landmass that spans just 30 miles\u2014but despite their sizes, each of the Canary Islands is a self-contained world. \u201cWe call Gran Canaria a miniature continent because there are such different landscapes,\u201d says Mary Fe de Le\u00f3n, gastronomy expert at the Gran Canarian office of tourism. \u201cWe have five different microclimates. There might be snow up at the top of the mountain one day, but in one hour\u2019s drive you can be at the beach, and it\u2019s hot.\u201d <\/p>\n

It\u2019s all about topography. These aren\u2019t just islands\u2014they\u2019re also giant mountain ranges, volcanoes that shoot up steeply from the sea floor. The rocky peaks that form their ubiquitous calderas<\/i>,<\/i> or craters, form natural barriers for the cool, humid trade winds that blow from the Atlantic. As a result, northern coasts are green and foggy, while cacti and shrubs speckle the sunny south. Temperatures plunge as you head toward the central highlands, and inside volcanic craters you can find thick forests full of ancient laurels.<\/p>\n

Head for the Hills <\/b><\/h3>\n

Nowhere is the landscape more dramatic than on La Palma, a teardrop-shaped western island that\u2019s considered the steepest in the world. As I bounce around the passenger seat of a truck alongside Alejandro Escuder, a veterinarian who works with cheesemakers on the island, I discover what that superlative feels like: a road of endless switchbacks that never stops winding and a constant feeling of teetering above a vast, sparkling blue ocean.<\/p>\n

The stark slopes leave little space for sprawling farms; instead, cheesemaking operations on La Palma are attached to family houses, wedged between tiny milking parlors and aging rooms with windows positioned to catch whiffs of sea breeze. Usually, a small cheese-smoking oven sits adjacent to the aging area, with piles of almond shells or dried cacti foraged from the surrounding hills, ready to be burned. \u201cThese are mini queserias<\/i>,\u201d says Escuder, as we set out to visit farms and collect cheese samples for the Queso Palmero PDO organization, his employer. \u201cThey are local cheeses made by families\u2014a husband and wife, a mother and son, or brothers.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"

Jos\u00e9 Carlos P\u00e9rez Loreno presses a large wheel of Queso Palmero in his cheesemaking room.<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s clear as we descend a dirt road toward Quesos El Moc\u00e1n, a cheesemaking operation owned by twin brothers Jos\u00e9 and Jos\u00e9 Carlos P\u00e9rez Lorenzo. The tiny structure is tucked into the base of a ravine that plunges straight into the Atlantic Ocean. Outside, agile Palmera goats\u2014the island\u2019s native breed, built to efficiently scale rocky ledges\u2014lounge in the nooks and crannies of the surrounding cliffs. Inside, Jos\u00e9 Carlos takes a break from hand-pressing the morning\u2019s curds to stir the afternoon milk in a plastic tub. Vats are a rarity in these small operations, where fresh milk, still warm from the goat, is transformed without any heating. Jos\u00e9 Carlos, who learned shepherding from his father and managed his first herd at the age of 16, manipulates curd with years of accumulated instinct.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn La Palma, this is our history. Our life is goats,\u201d Escuder explains, describing the local shepherds, some of whom live to be nearly 80 years old yet refuse to give up herding. \u201cIf these people stopped having goats, they would be bored and sad\u2014it would not be good,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

As younger generations are drawn toward coastal and mainland cities, it\u2019s more important than ever that new farmers carry on shepherding traditions and maintain the rural Canarian landscape. That\u2019s why PDO cheese organizations like that of Queso Palmero offer help to budding makers and work to promote the cheese. Escuder is optimistic. \u201cYoung people are looking for farms, too, and I try to help them,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Visitors Welcome <\/b><\/h3>\n

Back on Gran Canaria, Molina echoes the sentiment. \u201cWe need young people,\u201d he says. On the tours he provides to local schools, Molina often visits Tania Rivero and Francisco Javier Gonz\u00e1lez, 29- and 32-year-old shepherds who are turning out award-winning sheep\u2019s milk cheeses at Cortijo de Galeote<\/span>. It\u2019s an effort to show a new generation that that continuing Canarian tradition is a valid life choice.<\/p>\n

By offering foreign visitors a chance to stray off the beaten path, traveling by Jeep or by foot into the highlands to visit shepherds and artisans, Molina is also setting the standard for an alternative type of tourism that bolsters local culture. After all, not everybody wants to lounge at a coastal resort. My beach-bum instincts vanished once I realized the Canaries offer so much more: tiny villages in the mountains, breathtaking hiking trails, cycling tours, wine tasting at vineyards, exploring ancient cave houses, and\u2014of course\u2014ogling goats. <\/p>\n

\n
\"\"

Queso Palmero PDO<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

As for the cheeses themselves, Canarian wheels have been generating quite a buzz on the world scene. At the 2008 World Cheese Awards, Queso Arico Curado Piment\u00f3n\u2014a goat\u2019s milk wheel from the island of Tenerife rubbed with red pepper and gofio\u2014was named the single best cheese in the world. In 2009, one out of every 10 cheeses winning a World Cheese Award hailed from the Canary Islands. In 2017, the tiny archipelago laid claim to four Super Gold medals, the most distinguished category.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you want to try the cheeses, you\u2019ll have to come here.\u201d<\/h4>\n

Nevertheless, with a few exceptions, you\u2019ll have trouble finding these cheeses stateside\u2014or even outside of the islands. That\u2019s due in part to a tight supply; residents of the Canaries boast the highest annual per-capita cheese consumption in Spain\u201414 to 16 kilos per person, almost double the national average. \u201cWe love cheese,\u201d says Rafael Dominguez, export manager at cheese distributor Chac\u00f3n e Hijo on the island of Tenerife. \u201cWe eat most of what we produce ourselves.\u201d And nearly all of it is made on tiny family farms. \u201cThe production is so small, so it\u2019s not really the goal to export,\u201d says Fe de Le\u00f3n. \u201cIf you want to try the cheeses, you\u2019ll have to come here.\u201d It\u2019s the perfect excuse to discover the world of wonder these islands have to offer.   <\/span><\/p>\n

Photography by Molly McDonough<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you want to try the cheeses, you\u2019ll have to come here.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":34856,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[4118,3740,4122,4120,1235,4119,4121,2398,4123],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-34854","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-canarian-cheese","tag-canary-islands","tag-cheesemaking-in-the-canary-islands","tag-flor-de-guia-pdo","tag-molly-mcdonough","tag-queso-majorero-pdo","tag-queso-palmero-pdo","tag-spanish-cheese","tag-spanish-cheesemakers"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Hidden World of Cheese on Spain\u2019s Canary Islands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"If you want to try the 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