{"id":34977,"date":"2018-08-14T07:45:54","date_gmt":"2018-08-14T11:45:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=34977"},"modified":"2021-08-24T15:31:26","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T19:31:26","slug":"guide-artisan-yogurt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/guide-artisan-yogurt\/","title":{"rendered":"Your Ultimate Guide to Yogurt"},"content":{"rendered":"

M<\/span>y earliest memories of yogurt date to a \u201990s-era cafeteria: the friend at the lunch table who, without fail, would pluck a plastic container from her insulated bag, then lick the label clean. Finding its sweetness cloying and its thin texture unsubstantial, I reached for the stuff only on rare occasions\u2014more to up my calcium intake than to satiate a craving.<\/p>\n

These days, though, I see yogurt in a whole new light. I savor modern vanilla-speckled versions as dessert and incorporate tart, plain styles into meals. No longer thin, goopy, and sugar-laden, yogurt has entered a new age in America, showing off trimmed-down ingredients, sophisticated flavors, and a new range of varieties. These days, US makers are drawing from a breadth of global traditions\u2014from France and Russia to Iceland and Iran\u2014and consumers aren\u2019t looking back.<\/p>\n

\n
\n

What is yogurt?<\/strong> <\/em>Yogurt<\/a> is milk\u2014usually cow’s milk in the United States\u2014that has been fermented by bacteria: at the very least Lactobacillus delbrueckii <\/em>and Streptococcus thermophilus<\/em>, but other strains can be used, too.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

Cream of the Crop<\/h3>\n

In 2000, the average American only ate six and a half pounds of yogurt per year, but by 2005, the cultured dairy was seeing steady growth. And then, the sweet spot: Since 2010, yogurt consumption has hovered between 13 and 15 pounds per person. So, what happened? Our skyrocketing demand for yogurt went hand in hand with the mid-aughts rise of the Greek style. (Greek import Fage joined our ranks in 1998 and Chobani was founded in 2005.)<\/p>\n

A 2011 UBS report revealed a 146 percent increase in Greek yogurt sales between 2010 and 2011; during the same period, traditional yogurt sales grew by only two percent. What drew us to Greek, the report concluded, wasn\u2019t just protein, but its ability to satiate: Unlike traditional yogurt, Greek could be the base of a full meal, not just a snack.<\/p>\n

With all this sudden interest came a changing of the guard. In 2016, Yoplait, once the top-selling yogurt brand, fell to third behind Dannon and Chobani. In 2017, Chobani rolled out a rebrand in response to their gads of competitors flooding the market. Once the new kid on the block, Greek has reshaped our idea of what yogurt is, and as it shifts from underdog to mainstay, consumers\u2019 tart-accustomed taste buds have begun to hunger for novel options.<\/p>\n

\"Icelandic

Icelandic Provisions Skyr<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

A World Tour<\/h3>\n

A peek into nearly any grocery store\u2019s dairy case yields a range of yogurts claiming ties around the world. While these new options might leave us scratching our heads, the difference boils down to the bacterial cultures in question, and whether the yogurt is strained or unstrained. (Greek is typified by straining; removing most of its whey creates its iconic thick texture.)<\/p>\n

Fundamentally, yogurt is made by adding the bacterial strains Lactobacillus delbrueckii<\/em> and Streptococcus thermophilus<\/em> to milk that has been warmed, but other strains can be added as well. Once in the milk, the live, active cultures consume lactose and turn it into lactic acid, producing different flavor profiles and clumping milk proteins to form a range of textures.<\/p>\n

But how does that resulting variation play out on the supermarket shelf? Icelandic-style yogurt, sometimes labeled \u201cskyr<\/a>,\u201d is one variety gaining popularity. According to Steve Platt, CEO of New York\u2013based Icelandic Provisions, the company\u2019s skyr is characterized by the use of heirloom cultures<\/a>, which lend a rich, creamy quality and tie the product to Icelandic food traditions. Skyr is strained, so it\u2019s thick and firm, and while there\u2019s a touch of tang, it trends toward natural sweetness and doesn\u2019t require much added sugar. Flavors veer Icelandic, too, highlighting fruits like lingonberry and cloudberry.<\/p>\n

Or, you might fall for French style, a dessert-like yogurt with no tart aftertaste. Jenefier Wickham, assistant manager at Oklahoma\u2019s Amelia Creamery, attributes their yogurt\u2019s decadence to French probiotics and the retention of whey, which creates a runnier consistency. Its packaging swings European as well: Ceramic jars keep the product safe from light and recall French tradition. (Yogurt giant Yoplait also has a line of creamy French-style yogurts sold in glass jars\u2014called \u201cOui,\u201d the treats are a nod to their early years as a dairy cooperative in France.)<\/p>\n

Head east on the yogurt map, and you\u2019ll find Greek, Middle Eastern, and Russian styles. California-based Pavel\u2019s has made Russian-style yogurt since the 1970s using a 100-year-old recipe that relies on culture strains with roots in Siberia, where the company\u2019s namesake once had a dairy farm. Luke Sortor, who took over the family business in 2005, describes the yogurt as \u201chigh umami and low acid.\u201d Because of their distinct collection of cultures, he says, Pavel\u2019s is more delicate than other varieties.<\/p>\n

In Brooklyn, micro-producer White Moustache crafts Greek and Persian yogurts\u2014though, to owner Homa Dashtaki, it\u2019s all a bit of a misnomer since so many cultures follower similar yogurt-making traditions. For her, the distinctions mainly signify strained versus unstrained. \u201cYour North American home cook is making Persian yogurt, as far as I\u2019m concerned,\u201d she says of the unstrained style. One product of Dashtaki\u2019s is culturally specific, though: moosir, an unstrained yogurt to which she adds Leopoldia shallots. \u201cShallot yogurt is one of the most quintessential Iranian foods,\u201d she says, adding that yogurt offers more options if it\u2019s seen in a savory light (in the Middle East, it\u2019s often used as a condiment and soup base).<\/p>\n

\"jars

White Moustache Yogurt<\/p><\/div>\n

Small and Simple<\/h3>\n

While cultures and styles vary, a common thread among smaller producers is a commitment to simplicity. For some\u2014like Greek-American Steven Ioannou, co-founder of Long Island\u2013based Noun\u00f3s Creamery\u2014going back to basics forms the entire foundation.<\/p>\n

Before the Greek yogurt boom, he says, his family made yogurt at home, letting whey drip into the kitchen sink as they strained the yogurt with cheesecloth. When the style gained popularity, he says, \u201cWe were really excited that we could just buy it.\u201d<\/p>\n

But Ioannou was quickly disappointed by what he saw as the pitfalls of large-scale production. \u201cThey were adding a lot of sugar. It was more of a treat than a healthy snack,\u201d he says. After a trip back to his family\u2019s village in Greece, he and his godfather\u2014now his business partner\u2014decided to carry on the tradition: minimally processed, handmade yogurt without preservatives or fillers. \u201cThe yogurt that we make [in Long Island] is the same yogurt that we made in Greece,\u201d Iannou says.<\/p>\n

Wickham of Amelia Creamery tells a similar tale. When founders Tony and Maria Barros moved to the United States from Brazil over 20 years ago, she says, \u201cThey couldn\u2019t find a yogurt like what they knew\u2014that was natural, that tasted good, and that was really good for your gut.\u201d So, Tony, a pilot by trade, began visiting France regularly to learn traditional techniques. He started crafting yogurt using whole milk, raw cane sugar, homemade jams, and French cultures for family and friends; it earned so much acclaim that the family launched the creamery in 2017.<\/p>\n

These sentiments are echoed by many small producers, who see their niche as small-batch yogurts with minimal ingredients. They eschew the over-involvement of machinery: \u201cThe cultures aren\u2019t shocked and [nothing is] over-processed,\u201d says Iannou. Largely, they forgo a reliance on fillers, thickeners, and preservatives, instead letting cultures and time work their magic on milk. Many, too, are trimming down sweeteners\u2014the drive, they say, is a growing desire for more stripped-down foods. Drawing from his decades of insight into the yogurt industry, Pavel\u2019s Sortor says that \u201cpeople are looking for cleaner ingredients\u2026the consumer is looking for something that\u2019s much simpler.\u201d<\/p>\n

Widespread distribution is often not the goal. To White Moustache\u2019s Dashtaki, staying small has yielded the best results\u2014the company capped itself at 35 stores and chooses not to distribute anywhere over 20 miles away. Not worrying about becoming big allows her to take her time. \u201cLetting the process lead the way lets us innovate,\u201d she says. \u201cEvery batch feels like a magical baby, and we get to linger in that.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"noosa

Noosa Yoghurt<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

\n

Tasting Notes: Yogurts from Around the World<\/h2>\n

Yogurt has ties to global food traditions that extend far beyond what we can find in the US, but to keep it simple, here\u2019s a rundown of the common options on stateside grocery-store shelves.<\/p>\n

Greek
\n<\/strong>Known for its high protein content and pronounced tang, Greek yogurt is strained to remove a substantial amount of whey, leaving a thick, dense texture.
\nTry:<\/strong> Noun\u00f3s Creamery Greek Low-Fat Yogurt <\/em><\/p>\n

Icelandic<\/strong>
\nCompared to traditional yogurt cultures, skyr cultures (plus straining) yield a rich mouthfeel with a stick-to-your-spoon texture and natural sweetness.
\nTry:<\/strong> Icelandic Provisions Skyr <\/em><\/p>\n

French<\/strong>
\nForgoing straining results in a lighter, creamier style containing more whey. More dessert-like, it trends toward sweetness instead of acidity.
\nTry:<\/strong> Amelia Creamery Natural French-Style Yogurt<\/em><\/p>\n

\"noun\u00f3s

Noun\u00f3s Creamery Vanilla Bean Blend<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Persian<\/strong>
\nThis unstrained style has a looser consistency, lending itself to savory preparations like sauces or dips. Traditional mix-ins include cucumbers and shallots.
\nTry:<\/strong> White Moustache Savory Shallots Yogurt <\/em><\/p>\n

Russian<\/strong>
\nRussian-style yogurt has a delicate texture, mild flavor, and low acidity\u2014which means it\u2019s easy to eat alone, and doesn\u2019t overpower when mixed into recipes.
\nTry:<\/strong> Pavel\u2019s Plain Original Whole Milk Yogurt <\/em><\/p>\n

Australian<\/strong>
\nThink of it like the midpoint between Greek and traditional: Australian \u201cyoghurt\u201d has a firm yet velvety texture and subtle sweetness.
\nTry:<\/strong> Noosa Yoghurt<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Whey to Go<\/h2>\n
\"\"<\/div>\n

The acidic liquid that\u2019s left behind when yogurt is strained, whey has been called Greek yogurt\u2019s dark side. Why? Makers almost always end up with too much of it, and since it can leach oxygen from waterways as it breaks down, it\u2019s illegal to dump. Unlike the whey leftover from cheesemaking, yogurt whey is too high in acidity and too low in solids to be turned into protein powders. Instead, it often ends up at farms as feed or fertilizer.<\/p>\n

According to White Moustache\u2019s Homa Dashtaki, however, it\u2019s a shame for whey to go to waste. She sees whey as drinkable magic, so she bottles it into tonics\u2014from plain (great for brining chicken) to passionfruit\u2014and freezes it into popsicles. \u201cYou want to swim in it with a straw,\u201d she says of the nearly luminescent yellow liquid.<\/p>\n

Though she notes that bartenders have worked with whey for years (it can be used as a egg white alternative in cocktails), she laments the current lack of interest in drinking pure liquid whey: \u201cIt\u2019s a fascinating and delicious byproduct and it\u2019s everywhere, so it\u2019s shocking that it\u2019s not an ingredient staple.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n

Header image: Amelia Creamery Natural French-Style Yogurt
\nPhotography by Evi Abeler<\/em>
\nStyling by Nicole Twohy<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Globally inspired makers breathe new life into the American yogurt scene. Here’s what you need to know about all those new yogurt styles.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":95,"featured_media":34983,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[4227,4233,4236,4228,4237,4235,4222,4225,4234,4221,4223,4226,4231,4232,3902,4229,4224,2488],"coauthors":[1504],"class_list":["post-34977","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-amelia-creamery","tag-australian-yoghurt","tag-bettina-makalintal","tag-chobani","tag-evi-abeler","tag-french-yogurt","tag-greek-yogurt","tag-icelandic-provisions","tag-icelandic-skyr","tag-noosa-yoghurt","tag-nounos-creamery","tag-pavels-yogurt","tag-persian-yogurt","tag-russian-yogurt","tag-skyr","tag-whey","tag-white-moustache","tag-yogurt"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nYour Ultimate Guide to Artisan Yogurt<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Globally inspired makers are breathing new life into the American yogurt scene. 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