{"id":36173,"date":"2019-01-18T07:45:45","date_gmt":"2019-01-18T12:45:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36173"},"modified":"2021-08-24T15:16:04","modified_gmt":"2021-08-24T19:16:04","slug":"the-last-limburger","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-last-limburger\/","title":{"rendered":"The Last Limburger"},"content":{"rendered":"

A<\/span>t Baumgartner\u2019s Tavern<\/a> in Monroe, Wis., there\u2019s a sandwich that makes out-of-towners recoil in fear. On the painted menu strung above the bar, wedged between humdrum items like \u201cSloppy Chili Dog\u201d and \u201cOld-Fashioned Soup,\u201d its name would be easy to miss\u2014if not for the ruckus it incites.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cLimburger.\u201d A name steeped in memory and meaning; a word that elicits a visceral response. Sitting incognito at the far end of the bar, I watch the drama unfold. Three women visiting from Milwaukee dare one another to try the famous menu item: thick pieces of limburger<\/a> cheese and raw red onion between slices of rye bread. The bravest one volunteers. She pinches her nose shut in preparation. Her friends look on, eyes wide with cringe and curiosity. <\/span><\/p>\n

Surely, they\u2019ve heard the stories. The rumors of wedding pranksters who smear limburger cheese atop a honeymoon car\u2019s engine, sending an assaulting aroma through the vehicle as the newlyweds drive away. Maybe they read The Invalid\u2019s Story <\/i>by Mark Twain, in which two men mistake a box of limburger for a decaying corpse. Perhaps they remember seeing The Three Stooges faint over a whiff of the cheese, or they watched Charlie Chaplin toss it into enemy trenches in Shoulder Arms<\/i>, its stink compelling surrender. Whatever they\u2019ve heard, limburger\u2019s reputation precedes it. The brave tourist closes her eyes and takes a bite.   <\/span><\/p>\n

Monroe\u2019s Stalwart<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Limburger\u2019s far-flung infamy belies its humble origins. The next morning, just down the road at the Chalet Cheese Cooperative, a genteel local named Myron Olson shows me how he makes Country Castle Limburger<\/a>: the way he learned to 48 years ago when he was in high school. A few mornings each week, he fills an open vat with milk, transforms it into curd, and pumps it onto a rectangular, cheesecloth-covered table, forming a slab that is cut into 70 blocks.  <\/span><\/p>\n

After salting the young limburgers, he hauls them into an aging cave thick with humid air and places them on pine shelves. A small metal bucket sits adjacent, filled with a frothy concoction: the brine. A heady mix of salt water and ripening bacteria, it\u2019s used to wash the limburgers twice during their first week of aging, rendering them rosy and slightly ripe. <\/span><\/p>\n

Soon the blocks will be wrapped in foil and transferred to a cooling room, where they\u2019ll transform from salty and feta-like to creamy and luscious over a few months. Meanwhile, before the pine boards are washed, the remnants of rind remaining on the wood are scraped off into a fresh saltwater bucket, inoculating a new batch of brine. That process propagates the same bacterial cultures that have been used to make limburger at Chalet Cheese\u2014Wisconsin\u2019s oldest cooperative dairy\u2014for over a hundred years.   <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt used to be that this room was full of \u2019em,\u201d Olson says of the pine shelves as we stand in the cave. He points to an empty corner on the opposite side of the room. \u201cThe shelves went all the way to there\u2014there was just enough room for us to get by. That\u2019s how much limburger we used to go through.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

Suddenly, the room feels very empty: These few shelves represent all that remains of an iconic cheese that was once among the most popular in the US. And in just a few weeks, Olson, the country\u2019s only Master Cheesemaker specialized in limburger, will be retiring. What will happen to the last limburger in America?  <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Young blocks of limburger age on pine shelves at Chalet Cheese.<\/p><\/div>\n

New Kid on the Block <\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Limburger first popped up in Wisconsin following a wave of immigration in the late 1800s. Originally a Belgian cheese, it had been replicated and popularized in Germany; here in Green County, it was reinvented anew.  <\/span><\/p>\n

In an area heavily populated with newcomers from Germany and Switzerland, limburger became a universal rendering of a common homeland tradition: the washed-rind wheel of wintertime. Just as with European classics like Vacherin Mont d\u2019Or<\/a> and Reblochon<\/a>, it was born of practicality. In winter, milk was scarce and fatty; large Alpine-style wheels were less practical. And so when Green County farmers weren\u2019t making Swiss cheese, they made limburger. They ate it for breakfast on toast, dolloped with strawberry jam or honey; they wedged it into a rye-and-onion sandwich and washed it down with beer at the tavern. It was inexpensive and abundant. It was the workingman\u2019s cheese.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Founded as the Swiss Cheese Factory by a group of five Green County dairy farmers in 1885, the Chalet Cheese Cooperative rode the coattails of that New World limburger craze. As immigrant communities expanded throughout the eastern United States, precipitating demand, the cooperative\u2014along with many neighbor dairies\u2014grew to meet it. In 1926, 98 percent of limburger made in Wisconsin was made in Green County; by 1935, almost 7 million pounds of limburger was being made in Wisconsin. To transport the scads of washed-rind blocks from these rolling green hills to nearby cities, a local train line was established\u2014the Milwaukee 508, nicknamed \u201cThe Limburger Special.\u201d <\/i> <\/span><\/p>\n

By the 1920s, even the Kraft brothers\u2014German descendants who began their dairy empire as a Chicago cheese distribution company\u2014were on board. They teamed up with Chalet Cheese to distribute limburger, fueling the cooperative\u2019s continued growth. Olson, a local kid who grew up on a dairy farm, began working at the factory in 1970 to save money for college. \u201cI\u2019d come over after school, wrap limburger, and go home at nine o\u2019clock at night,\u201d he remembers. In college, he studied cheesemaking and earned his limburger license. He returned to Chalet Cheese during its mid-70s prime, when the factory was turning out two million pounds of limburger per year.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Cheesemaker Myron Olson (right) will soon pass the torch to Jamie Fahrney (left).<\/p><\/div>\n

Tough Times<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Yet even when those pine shelves, rye sandwiches, and freight cars overflowed with a bounty of limburger cheese, not everything was coming up roses for the rubicund block. From malignment in pop culture to political controversy, limburger couldn\u2019t catch a break.  <\/span><\/p>\n

As early as 1885, Monroe-based politician Lohn Luschinger described 25 nearby cheese factories producing \u201ca premeditated outrage on upon the organs of smell\u201d; around the same time, Mark Twain called the cheese\u2019s aroma \u201cmost evil.\u201d In 1902 in Louisville, Ky., a ban on all Limburger cheese was declared. Calling it \u201cunwholesome\u201d and citing its \u201cmany microbes,\u201d local health officer Dr. M. K. Allen equated the cheese with a fetish for \u201canimal life.\u201d (Allen quickly clarified that this affinity only existed among \u201csome people\u201d; a group of local Germans soon protested the order to no avail).  <\/span><\/p>\n

Some years later in Iowa, a mailman was overcome with the smell of a limburger-filled parcel; the local postmaster, citing a rule against \u201cobjectionable\u201d scents, soon banned all shipments of the cheese. \u201cLimburger: Fragrant in Monroe; Putrid in Iowa,\u201d read a headline in the Milwaukee Journal<\/i>. Putrid, unwholesome, objectionable, evil: Were these caustic descriptors mere tasting notes\u2014or did they also reek of skepticism toward the immigrants and working-class taverngoers who so loved the cheese? <\/span><\/p>\n

Either way, it was not a good time to be pungent in America. By the mid-20th century, the refrigeration era arrived in full force. In gleaming kitchens, foods were hidden from sight and smell; cleaning products waged war against microbes. Cunning cheese companies adapted. Mild wedges appealed to modern sensibilities and were cheaper to produce. American cheese was born. \u201cCheese with flavor went out of style,\u201d Olson says.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Starting in the mid-1940s, limburger production in the United States embarked on a steady decline. Between 1950 and 1960, the number of limburger plants in the country dropped by two-thirds; by the early 1980s, there was only one left: the Chalet Cheese Cooperative. In addition to cornering 100 percent of the remaining US limburger market\u2014which has now dwindled to less than 500,000 pounds\u2014the co-op has survived by producing a range of other sought-after cheeses, from Wisconsin brick to an award-winning baby Swiss.  <\/span><\/p>\n

Keeping it Real<\/b> <\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Looking back at Limburger\u2019s rise and fall, Olson can\u2019t shake a sense of irony. About 14 years ago, Kraft completed its pivot toward bland, processed cheeses with its very last order for Chalet Cheese\u2019s limburger, ending 70 years of collaboration. But soon after, artisan washed rind cheeses began popping up on the market. \u201cPeople still wanted their stinky cheese,\u201d Olson says, \u201cbut they had to go to a different source.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

Sticky, orange, and pungent, today\u2019s washed rinds have a different reputation. They win awards. They\u2019re tucked into precious packaging and boast high price tags. \u201cWhen I say \u2018limburger,\u2019 right away people say \u2018No, no, I\u2019ve heard the stories, I don\u2019t want to try it,\u2019\u201d says Olson. \u201cBut if I gave them that same piece and said, \u2018This is Saint Michael\u2019s reserve, specially washed, specially cured just for you,\u2019 would they try it? \u2018Oh sure, let me try it, it smells, but it\u2019s really got a good flavor.\u2019\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

 It might be wrapped in foil packaging that hasn\u2019t changed in decades, but like the trendiest washed-rind wheels, limburger is an artisanal cheese. \u201cThis is the old standby, the open vat,\u201d Olson explains as we stroll through the facility, which is still cooperatively owned by a group of 16 farmers. \u201cNowadays [many cheesemakers] use vats that are closed, that are mechanized; they make good cheese, but not the old-fashioned way.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

Perhaps nothing is more \u201cold fashioned\u201d than that bubbling bucket of brine, teeming with cultures propagated at the dairy since 1911. It was nearly lost in 1947, when Chalet Cheese moved from its original plant to its current location. Built with investment from Kraft, this dairy was supposed to be the most modern limburger plant in America\u2014right down to its brand new ripening cultures and sparkling clean aging planks.  <\/span><\/p>\n

But there was a problem. \u201cThe first month all they had was green moldy cheese,\u201d Olson says. While the green limburger stumped proponents of the modern factory, the manager at the time, a Swiss native named Albert Deppeler, had a hunch: Maybe the sanitized factory was too <\/i>modern. He schlepped down the hill to grab the old factory\u2019s wooden boards and decades-old schmear, and brought them to the facility. Within a month, the new factory was turning out authentic, rosy-hued limburger: a testament to the cheese\u2019s tradition and terroir. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Tried and True <\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Then there\u2019s the matter of flavor. Back at Baumgartner\u2019s Tavern, the brave Milwaukee tourist washes her bite down with a beer and reassures her friends: It\u2019s not so<\/i> bad. Bartender C.J. Kindschi tells me that at least half of first-timers are pleasantly surprised. \u201cThe legend is a lot worse,\u201d he says, standing beneath a tin sign that reads: \u201cLimburger: Don\u2019t eat it with your nose.\u201d Indeed, the blocks are creamy, rich, and robust, savory and with a mild pungency that increases slightly with time.  <\/span><\/p>\n

If limburger were on the brink of extinction, you wouldn\u2019t know it at Baumgartner\u2019s. Sure, brave tourists order it on a dare\u2014but local regulars also head to the tavern for a limburger sandwich and a beer, as they have since the 1800s. \u201cIt\u2019s definitely one of our more popular menu items,\u201d Kindschi says. \u201cMaybe because there aren\u2019t that many places you can get a limburger sandwich.\u201d (The only other he knows of is Swiss Haus, just down the street.)   <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Carol Tourdot, aka “The Limburger Queen,” has been affixing labels to limburgers at Chalet for 42 years. Here, she dons her garb for the Green County Cheese Days festival.<\/p><\/div>\n

Here the cheese is a source of local pride. During the town\u2019s biennial cheese festival, a \u201cLimburger Queen\u201d parades down the street to much fanfare, while food stalls sling limburger sliders and limburger T-shirts fly off the shelves in the swag tent. At the National Historic Cheesemaking Center a few blocks away, Chuck Ekena, a retired schoolteacher and volunteer in the on-site museum, shows me an entire exhibit wall devoted to the cheese, replete with a list of \u201cPositive Points about Limburger.\u201d \u201cLimburger? That\u2019s good stuff,\u201d Ekena says. \u201cBut I have to go to Baumgartner\u2019s to eat it, because my wife won\u2019t let me bring it home.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

Indeed, it\u2019s still the butt of a joke\u2014but boosted by a mix of nostalgia and steadfast loyalty, limburger lives on. \u201cEven though production is a fraction of what it once was,\u201d says Suzanne Isige, market research manager at the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, \u201cwe still get the occasional call from someone trying to track down the limburger cheese their dad or grandad used to enjoy.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe like to say we\u2019re the granddad of stinky cheese\u2014we\u2019ve been here forever,\u201d Olson says proudly after introducing me to Jamie Fahrney, his soon-to-be replacement. Fahrney, a Master Cheesemaker certified in baby Swiss who has been working alongside Olson at Chalet Cheese for 40 years, says the move to overseeing limburger \u201cis just a natural step.\u201d He sees distribution as a challenge for limburger, but isn\u2019t too worried about decreased demand. \u201cI don\u2019t see it declining\u2014hopefully it will increase,\u201d he says.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThe desire is there,\u201d Olson says, nodding in agreement. Indeed, when I ask him to describe his average consumer, he sums it up: \u201cOh, they\u2019re probably 76 years old,\u201d he says. \u201cBut they\u2019d swim a river and climb a mountain to get their limburger.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Long dismissed as a “stinky cheese,” limburger might just surprise you.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":36177,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[8526,8532,8528,8533,8529,8530,6610,8531,8527,7365,775,774,2747,978],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-36173","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-baumgartners-tavern","tag-carol-tourdot","tag-chalet-cheese-co-op","tag-cheese-days-festival","tag-contry-castle","tag-green-county","tag-limburger","tag-limburger-queen","tag-monroe","tag-myron-olson","tag-stinky-cheese","tag-washed-rind","tag-washed-rind-cheese","tag-wisconsin"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Last Limburger - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"There's more to limburger than what meets the eye... or nose.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-last-limburger\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Last Limburger\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"There's more to limburger than what meets the eye... or nose.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-last-limburger\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-01-18T12:45:45+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-08-24T19:16:04+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/LastLimberger-68-e1547669758204.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1067\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Molly McDonough\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Molly McDonough\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"14 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-last-limburger\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/the-last-limburger\/\",\"name\":\"The Last Limburger - 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