{"id":36178,"date":"2019-01-18T19:00:38","date_gmt":"2019-01-19T00:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36178"},"modified":"2021-06-10T14:27:32","modified_gmt":"2021-06-10T18:27:32","slug":"queso-in-the-capital","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/queso-in-the-capital\/","title":{"rendered":"Queso in the Capital"},"content":{"rendered":"

I<\/span>n Mexico City, you can hardly go dos<\/i> <\/i>pasos<\/i> without tripping over cheese<\/a>. Queso-laced street foods abound, such as elotes<\/em><\/a>\u2014grilled corn slathered with mayonnaise and sprinkled with crumbled cheese\u2014and hand-patted blue corn quesadillas stuffed with melted quesillo <\/i>and squash blossoms or huitlacoche<\/i>,<\/i> a delicious corn fungus. But this bustling metropolis is also the perfect place to seek out the country\u2019s wide range of lesser-known artisanal and traditional wheels\u2014that is, if you know where to look.  <\/span><\/p>\n

An estimated 25 percent of Mexico\u2019s milk is made into cheese, an integral ingredient in its national cuisine. But the country still lags behind the United States when it comes to recognizing artisan cheese culture, says Carlos Yescas, co-founder of Mexico City\u2013based cheese distributor Lactography<\/a>. \u201cIt\u2019s a country where the Slow Food Movement has had a big impact,\u201d Yescas says\u2014but much of the attention has been directed toward foods like mezcal, beans, and corn, while Mexican cheeses have been dismissed as a product of European tradition, leaving artisan dairy producers lacking support.  <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

And while economic woes and logistical barriers make it difficult to transport rurally made cheese to the city, companies like Lactography are making it happen. At the same time, the growth of high-end restaurants\u2014with chefs who truly care about their ingredients\u2014has helped support artisanal cheese distribution in Mexico City, biting off a little chunk of the market from the ubiquitous commodity cheeses.<\/p>\n

At El Cardenal, a three-story restaurant in the heart of the city\u2019s historic center, chefs opt for a house-made version of panela<\/i>, a smooth, moist fresh cheese you\u2019ll encounter frequently in Mexico. Here, it\u2019s cubed and served in a molcajete<\/i> <\/i>(a traditional stone mortar) with avocado and a pool of green salsa. El Cardenal makes its own cheeses at its ranch\u2014all the more reason to order any of the dairy-based dishes, like the nata <\/i>(clotted cream) with fresh-baked concha rolls and the poblano chile stuffed with Mexican manchego, a butter-yellow, semi-firm cheese with little resemblance to its Spanish namesake. <\/span><\/p>\n

Across the city, dishes with quesillo or queso<\/i> <\/i>Oaxaca <\/i>grace restaurant menus. While supermarket versions of this stretched-curd white cheese can be overly greasy, sweet, and tough, reputable versions yield a delightful tang in their tender strings (the cheese was traditionally made from the previous day\u2019s sour milk). It first arrived in Mexico City with the Oaxacans, who came to help build the subway, but the beautifully melty cheese quickly took up permanent residence, especially among street foods known as \u201cvitamin T\u201d: tacos, tortas, tamales, tlacoyos<\/i>, and more. \u201cIt\u2019s my favorite Mexican cheese,\u201d says chef Martha Ortiz of Dulce Patria, a contemporary Mexican restaurant in the Las Alcobas hotel. She uses it in her multicolored quesadillas. \u201cIt\u2019s so artistic, how they make it: small or big, braided, fresh, with more cream in it, salty or not salty. But round\u2014like the world of cheese.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

To purchase some of Mexico\u2019s most interesting cheeses, head to the Mercado San Juan. Among the city\u2019s many traditional public markets (all of which boast at least one cheese vendor, if not a half dozen), this one, open daily, is a quality standout. Culinary tour guide Anais Martinez, aka the Curious Mexican, jokes that San Juan is the city\u2019s version of Whole Foods\u2014it\u2019s less of a standby for everyday ingredients and more of a destination for indulging in fancy flourishes. <\/span><\/p>\n

Jos\u00e9 Ju\u00e1rez Farf\u00e1n has worked at the Gastron\u00f3mica San Juan stall for 46 years. A third-generation cheese seller, he began working here at eight years old with his grandfather. Now he works with his own son: the fourth generation. Like Yescas, he sees progress in support of Mexican cheese, but still has concerns. \u201cNow people want more organic or natural, but what\u2019s right is artisanal.\u201d  <\/span><\/p>\n

The market stall includes a few tables where shoppers can sample cheese-based foods and wines, as well as a cheese case chock-full of both imported and domestic wheels. Farf\u00e1n offers fontina made in Veracruz, a square Mexican emmental from San Juan del Rio, and a raw-milk brie from Puebla. Along with these European-inspired cheeses\u2014which are a fascinating study in terroir and adaptation\u2014he sells typical Mexican styles like q<\/i>ueso<\/i> Chihu<\/i>a<\/i>hua<\/i>, a squeaky cheese often made by Mennonites; depending on the time of year, it expresses a sharpness reminiscent of cheddar. Farf\u00e1n\u2019s inventory changes often, depending on the season, but he always has ample stock and will put together a tasting\u2014complete with a glass of wine\u2014for customers. <\/span><\/p>\n

Sampling dairy at the market or in the city\u2019s ever-expanding roster of acclaimed restaurants unveils the work of Mexico\u2019s artisans: cotija made in Michoac\u00e1n\u2019s hills; creamy, soft Chiapas cheese molded into a square; and buffalo mozzarella made in Tabasco. But you can also experience the ubiquity of quesillo on street corners, queso fresco with almost any meat dish, and panela on appetizer platters. Together, these discoveries are evidence of the city\u2019s cheese culture: a multifaceted cuisine that\u2019s ripe for exploration. <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

EAT<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

El Cardenal<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

Sneak away from the crowded pedestrian streets of the historic center and follow the hordes of Mexican families toward this classic spot. Browse the giant menu of traditional cuisine while listening to live music, but don\u2019t miss any of the cheese-based specialties: The queso comes from the restaurant\u2019s own ranch. <\/span><\/p>\n

Sartoria<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

The stunning arched dining room gives an immediate hint of the ambition behind this Italian eatery. While the handmade pastas earn plenty of praise, the most interesting dishes result from chef Marco Carboni\u2019s mingling of locally made cheeses (like an artisanal stracciatella from Mexico State) and Mexican techniques with his Italian training, exemplified by the souffle-like tamale with hoja<\/i> <\/i>santa<\/i>, parmesan, and ricotta. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Eno<\/b> <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Enrique Olvera\u2019s famed restaurant Pujol gets booked months in advance for the multicourse tasting menus, but Mexico City\u2019s best-known chef also runs a handful of casual caf\u00e9s. Start your morning with chicken and Mexican manchego enchiladas, or linger over a cheese plate with camembert from Zacatl\u00e1n, It\u00e1lico from San Miguel de Allende, and a semi-aged sheep\u2019s milk cheese with a red wine\u2013rubbed rind from Quer\u00e9taro. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Quintonil<\/b> <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Jorge Vallejo\u2019s Quintonil has quietly snuck ahead of Pujol in worldwide restaurant rankings, serving up local and heirloom ingredients via modern approaches to traditional flavors and ingredients. Look for dishes like amaranth blossoms in a creamy tomato sauce, topped with Chiapas cheese. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

D<\/b>RINK<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Loup<\/b><\/a> <\/span><\/p>\n

This natural wine bar boasts a fantastic list in a bottom-floor, cellar-esque room. While most of the wines hail from abroad (Chile, France, and Spain), there are a few homegrown options to sip as you dig into dishes like burrata with spinach, kale, and anchovies, or a selection of cheeses served with honey and thick, crusty bread. <\/span><\/p>\n

B\u00f3sforo<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

The city\u2019s best mezcal bars seems to have infinite varieties of the signature tipple, plus bartenders brimming with the knowledge to guide rookies and experts alike toward a favorite. You\u2019ll need their help, since almost none of the bottles are labeled; this stuff is too small-batch to be exported. When it comes to pairing food, though there are limited options at this hip Centro Hist\u00f3rico hot spot\u2014don\u2019t miss the quesadilla made with a fresh blue corn tortilla and chapulines<\/i> <\/i>(grasshoppers). <\/p>\n

SHOP<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

 <\/span>Tianguis<\/b> de <\/b>Martes<\/b>, <\/b>Condesa<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

On Tuesdays, a small flea and farmers\u2019 market sets up along a few blocks of the western edge of the Condesa neighborhood. At one end you\u2019ll find a truck selling cheeses, and about halfway through, a set of tents filled with booths of people cooking all kinds of food. <\/span><\/p>\n

Calle Pachuca <\/span><\/p>\n

Gastron\u00f3mica San Juan<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

Mexico City\u2019s traditional markets offer endless aisles of unique vendors, and the gourmet-focused Mercado San Juan holds gems like this third-generation cheese shop. Pop into one of the small tables facing the cheese cases, order a glass of wine, and ask for a tasting of the many local Mexican cheeses stacked next to\u2014and on par with\u2014the imported ones. <\/span><\/p>\n

2da Calle de Ernesto Pugibet 77 L-162  <\/span><\/p>\n

+52 55 5510 2685 <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/span>Productos<\/b> <\/b>Oaxaque<\/b>\u00f1<\/b>os<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

If you stay at the Hotel Carlota (see below), there\u2019s a cheese truck parked just down the block. On weekdays, a vendor sells wares from a refrigerated vehicle. Along with traditional snacks and candies from Oaxaca, they offer a half dozen fresh and smoked cheeses, including quesillo, panela, and cotija. Look for similar trucks around town if you\u2019re elsewhere. <\/span><\/p>\n

Corner of R\u00edo Lerma and R\u00edo Amazonas <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/span>STAY<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/span>Hotel Carlota<\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

Just off the Reforma, one of the city\u2019s most dynamic boulevards, this updated hotel weaves mid-century Mexican modernist design with an unbeatable location and a rare bonus in Mexico City hotels: a pool. The bar\u2014on the pool deck\u2014serves snacks from its acclaimed restaurant alongside its drinks, including a cheese plate, cheese-stuffed masa cakes called [ital]bocol<\/i>es<\/i>[ital], and a panela and avocado sandwich. <\/span><\/p>\n

+52 55 5511 6300 <\/span><\/p>\n

Las <\/b>Alcobas<\/b> <\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

If you like your dairy with a side of luxury, book a room at this impeccable Polanco hotel, which offers as many selections for bath soap as it does for breakfast\u2014and the latter includes enfrijoladas<\/i>, a Oaxacan specialty of black bean sauce and cotija-coated chips, served with scrambled eggs and quesillo. Both restaurant options\u2014the world-famous Dulce Patria and Anatol\u2014are stunning; don\u2019t miss the squash blossoms stuffed with three cheeses and topped with parmesan at the latter. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/h3>\n

A Taste of<\/b> Ju\u00e1rez<\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

Bridging the gap between the historic center of Mexico City and its trendy Roma quarter, the Ju\u00e1rez neighborhood has location locked down. In the last few years, Roma\u2019s culinary reputation has spilled into the old mansions and modern constructions of the neighborhood. In one old house you\u2019ll find Caf\u00e9 Nin, the coffee shop from renowned chef Elena Reygadas (of Rosetta and Lardo), which serves baked goods like a guava and cheese\u2013stuffed pastry, and a mid-day menu that includes a burrata-topped version of the city\u2019s classic breakfast, chilaquiles. <\/span><\/p>\n

Sadly, despite queso-laden menus, La Ju\u00e1rez lacks a cheese shop. But Ojo de Agua, a health-focused juice bar and restaurant, curates a nice selection, including goat cheese, quesillo, and panela from its shop in the new Mil\u00e1n 44 food hall, where you can pop in for a coffee before slipping down to caf\u00e9 Chocolater\u00eda La Rifa for a snack. Eat or drink your chocolate in dozens of forms at La Rifa, including in a tamale filled with nata <\/i>(clotted cream).  <\/span><\/p>\n

Finish off your day in the neighborhood at Hanky Panky. You\u2019ll need to call ahead for a reservation, and for directions\u2014the speakeasy is hidden at the back of a taco shop. But once inside, you\u2019ll be treated to some of the city\u2019s best cocktails, alongside snacks like smoked provolone with sausage and parsley.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Mexico City, you can hardly go\u00a0dos\u00a0pasos\u00a0without tripping over cheese.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":99,"featured_media":36208,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[2482,8567,8564,8571,8573,8566,8572,1405,8563,2400,2402,6609,8568,8569,8565,8574,8570,960],"coauthors":[3036],"class_list":["post-36178","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-carlos-yescas","tag-el-cardenal","tag-elotes","tag-farfan","tag-gastronomica-san-juan","tag-huitlccoche","tag-jose-juarez","tag-lactography","tag-latin-american-cheese","tag-mexican-cheese","tag-mexico","tag-mexico-city","tag-molcajete","tag-nata","tag-quesillo","tag-queso-chihuahua","tag-queso-oaxaca","tag-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHere's All The Cheese You Need to Eat in Mexico City<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In Mexico City, you can hardly go\u00a0dos\u00a0pasos\u00a0without tripping over some queso.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/queso-in-the-capital\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Queso in the Capital\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In Mexico City, you can hardly go\u00a0dos\u00a0pasos\u00a0without tripping over some queso.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/queso-in-the-capital\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"culture: the word on cheese\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-01-19T00:00:38+00:00\" 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