{"id":36549,"date":"2019-04-01T14:32:07","date_gmt":"2019-04-01T18:32:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36549"},"modified":"2022-04-11T11:46:45","modified_gmt":"2022-04-11T15:46:45","slug":"teleme-franklins-edition","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/teleme-franklins-edition\/","title":{"rendered":"Teleme: Franklin’s Edition"},"content":{"rendered":"

I<\/span>\u2019m<\/span> driving through dense<\/span> morning<\/span> fog<\/span> <\/span>in California\u2019s San Joaquin Valley, <\/span>slowly <\/span>maneuvering my<\/span> car, <\/span>search<\/span>ing<\/span> for<\/span> road signs and landmarks scribbled down on <\/span>the back of an <\/span>old envelope<\/span>. <\/span>My eyes spot the sun, a white orb only slightly brighter than the <\/span>dewy <\/span>air around it. I <\/span>can <\/span>look directly at it without squinting. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Th<\/span>is<\/span> <\/span>hazy <\/span>valley is <\/span>the heart of<\/span> <\/span>California Big Ag<\/span> country<\/span>. It\u2019s<\/span> <\/span>home to the World Ag Expo, the largest <\/span>milk <\/span>processing center <\/span>in California<\/span>, and one of the largest Kraft cheese factories<\/span> in the country<\/span>. <\/span>All <\/span>here <\/span>seems<\/span> superlative<\/span>: <\/span>T<\/span>he trucks are the dirtiest, the farms <\/span>have<\/span> the <\/span>biggest<\/span> equipment, the fog is the foggiest, and the cows are the happiest<\/span>\u2014<\/span>or so it is marketed. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Yet i<\/span>n the midst of all of this <\/span>industrial<\/span> <\/span>agriculture<\/span>, a small-framed<\/span>, older<\/span> man <\/span>toils away<\/span> <\/span>making small batches of cheese <\/span>in a<\/span>n austere<\/span> <\/span>room<\/span> behind an unmarked door inside of a repurposed <\/span>warehouse<\/span> <\/span>on<\/span> a<\/span> small,<\/span> family-owned kiwi orchard.<\/span> <\/span>Th<\/span>at<\/span> man is Franklin Peluso<\/span>, owner of Mid Coast Cheese Company<\/a><\/span>. He is the<\/span> only remaining<\/span> maker of original<\/span>-style<\/span> <\/span>Teleme<\/span>,<\/span> a <\/span>hefty <\/span>stracchino<\/span> <\/span>cheese<\/span> with<\/span> <\/span>a<\/span> <\/span>rich, velvety<\/span> texture<\/span>. <\/span>Not only is <\/span>Franklin\u2019s<\/span> Teleme<\/span> (pronounced <\/span>tell-uh-may<\/span><\/i>)<\/span> one of California\u2019s oldest and <\/span>most <\/span>legendary <\/span>cheese<\/span>s<\/span>\u2014it<\/span>\u2019s also, i<\/span>ncreasingly<\/span>,<\/span> its<\/span> <\/span>rarest.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Franklin Paluso (right) and his father, Frank, in 1992.<\/p><\/div>\n

For over a year, I\u2019ve been researching Teleme, Franklin Peluso, and his family\u2019s intimate ties to this unique cheese. My goal? To nominate Teleme for an Ark of Taste<\/a> designation, a Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity project that catalogs distinctive foods with rich histories that are at risk of extinction. While learning about Teleme\u2019s history and getting to know Peluso, it\u2019s become clear that his wisdom of craft and firsthand knowledge of California\u2019s cheese history are inspiring\u2014and worthy of being preserved.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

I think I\u2019<\/span><\/i>ve reached<\/span><\/i> groupie<\/span><\/i> <\/span><\/i>status<\/span><\/i>,<\/span><\/i> I <\/span>tell<\/span> myself <\/span>while<\/span> crisscross<\/span>ing<\/span> the country roads<\/span>, looking for the last <\/span>road <\/span>sign pointing me to<\/span>ward<\/span> Teleme<\/span>. <\/span>And I\u2019m not <\/span>its<\/span> only <\/span>devotee<\/span>:<\/span> <\/span>Teleme\u2019s mystical<\/span> story <\/span>and <\/span>larger-than-life<\/span> personality have earned it a cult following in California.<\/span> <\/span>The beauty of Teleme<\/span>\u2014<\/span>as <\/span>I<\/span> often<\/span> profess to <\/span>anyone<\/span> willing to listen<\/span>\u2014<\/span>is that it is a<\/span>t once <\/span>a piece of history, an American <\/span>O<\/span>riginal, an immigrant story,<\/span> and<\/span> <\/span>a<\/span> culinary workhorse, a cheese whose stark simplicity balks at pretension<\/span>.<\/span> I finally encounter the<\/span> hand-painted<\/span> <\/span>roadside<\/span> <\/span>sign that reads <\/span>\u201c<\/span>CHEESE KIWI<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

After<\/span> I<\/span> knock on three<\/span> different<\/span> doors, <\/span>Franklin<\/span> pokes<\/span> his head<\/span> out. He <\/span>says hello<\/span> <\/span>and <\/span>quickly ushers me inside, <\/span>lest the<\/span> barn cats leap <\/span>indoors<\/span>. He settles immediately into his cheesemaking routine, one that he has mastered <\/span>over<\/span> more years than I<\/span>\u2019ve<\/span> been alive. <\/span>After the early hours of pasteurization and production setup lapse, it<\/span> comes<\/span> time to inoculate and set the milk<\/span>\u2014<\/span>the <\/span>secret<\/span><\/i> part of the family recipe. <\/span>Peluso <\/span>politely but intently suggests that this would be a great time to go out for some coffee, his treat. I take the hint.<\/span> So does his son, who takes over.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"california

Photograph by Rachel Kleine<\/p><\/div>\n

As <\/span>Peluso<\/span> <\/span>drives us into town, <\/span>I notice<\/span> that,<\/span> <\/span>l<\/span>ike<\/span> the way<\/span> <\/span>Peluso<\/span> <\/span>works<\/span> and s<\/span>peaks<\/span>, <\/span>his driving <\/span>is precisely timed and thoughtful. He <\/span>shifts <\/span>into recounting tales of Teleme.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cTeleme has a long history in California<\/span>,\u201d Peluso <\/span>says<\/span>. \u201cO<\/span>ther companies made it at different times, <\/span>but<\/span> my family has made it since the beginning<\/span>\u2014<\/span>and it was my grandfather who more or less created <\/span>it<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Peluso <\/span>learned to make<\/span> <\/span>cheese from his father who was taught by his father<\/span>; <\/span>a<\/span> secret<\/span> <\/span>recipe <\/span>passed between generations<\/span>. <\/span>In 1927,<\/span> <\/span>Peluso\u2019s <\/span>grandfather<\/span>, Giovanni, <\/span>was inspired by the success of<\/span> a cheese<\/span> called <\/span>t<\/span><\/i>elemea<\/span><\/i> <\/span>made <\/span>by Greek<\/span>s<\/span> <\/span>in the <\/span>Bay Area<\/span>, so <\/span>h<\/span>e <\/span>played <\/span>around with <\/span>re-engineering it. D<\/span>espite <\/span>the <\/span>similar name, Giovanni\u2019s cheese<\/span> <\/span>was <\/span>distinct<\/span>; while <\/span>telemea<\/span> was more like high-moisture Jack, Giovanni <\/span>re-envisioned it as<\/span> <\/span>a <\/span>ripened<\/span> stracchino<\/span> <\/span>reminiscent of<\/span> <\/span>those made in Northern Italy.<\/span> <\/span>An<\/span>d there w<\/span>as already a market awaiting it: <\/span>San Francisco\u2019s swelling Italian population. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

The creamery, circa 1930.<\/p><\/div>\n

Through the area\u2019s network of Italian delicatessens, Teleme<\/span>\u2014adopted by a growing number of nearby cheesemakers\u2014<\/span>became a household staple and<\/span> a commercial success<\/span>. <\/span>Production <\/span>was further bolstered<\/span> during World War II<\/span>,<\/span> when cheese import<\/span>s<\/span> from Italy <\/span>were<\/span> <\/span>banned.<\/span> <\/span>A<\/span> well-<\/span>integrated part of Northern California\u2019s food fabric<\/span>, it even weathered the<\/span> postwar consumerism boom<\/span>, remaining a staple in<\/span> home<\/span>–<\/span>cooked dishes<\/span> like polenta<\/a>.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Production of Teleme waxed and waned among a number of <\/span>local<\/span> creameries throughout the 1960s and <\/span>\u2019<\/span>70s<\/span>. G<\/span>radually, <\/span>the <\/span>cheesemakers<\/span> who knew how to make <\/span>the<\/span> cheese<\/span> <\/span>retired<\/span>, often <\/span>without passing on the<\/span>ir<\/span> knowledge. <\/span>Even Frank Peluso, Franklin\u2019s father, abandoned Teleme to focus on other cheeses, like mozzarella<\/a>, that were easier to make. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

In 1980, <\/span>Peluso <\/span>joined his father<\/span> <\/span>in the family cheesemaking business<\/span>. W<\/span>ithin a year,<\/span> <\/span>a local cheese broker advised <\/span>the <\/span>father-son team that if they <\/span>reintroduced<\/span> <\/span>the family\u2019s original <\/span>Teleme<\/span> cheese<\/span> he <\/span>c<\/span>ould sell <\/span>100<\/span> percent of it. \u201cNo one was making good Teleme at the time,\u201d <\/span>says <\/span>Peluso<\/span>, who grew up eating <\/span>his father\u2019s and grandfather\u2019s <\/span>cheese<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>So, the duo obliged<\/span>, resurrecting the recipe and staying true to traditional methods.<\/span> <\/span>T<\/span>he broker\u2019s hunch proved true<\/span>, and d<\/span>emand for the cheese spiked. Food writers of the <\/span>\u2019<\/span>80s and <\/span>\u2019<\/span>90s rediscovered Teleme for a new generation<\/span>, <\/span>prais<\/span>ing<\/span> its approachability, uniqueness, and<\/span> m<\/span>yriad<\/span> culinary uses.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Today, Peluso is teaching his son, Adam, the ropes.<\/span> <\/span>\u201cTeleme is a very difficult cheese to make correctly and consistently because it is so high moisture<\/span>\u2014it<\/span> doesn\u2019t get<\/span> <\/span>to age out the way most<\/span> soft<\/span>-ripened<\/span> cheeses <\/span>do,\u201d <\/span>Peluso says<\/span>.<\/span> I suspect that<\/span> <\/span>p<\/span>art of<\/span> wh<\/span>at makes <\/span>Franklin\u2019s <\/span>Teleme<\/span> so<\/span> <\/span>unique<\/span>, though,<\/span> is what<\/span> <\/span>happens <\/span>after<\/span><\/i> it\u2019s made<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"california

Photograph by Rachel Kleine<\/p><\/div>\n

Once they\u2019ve been<\/span> formed and pressed,<\/span> <\/span>young <\/span>squares of <\/span>curd <\/span>are left to<\/span> <\/span>mellow <\/span>out <\/span>for a few days<\/span> before being<\/span> dust<\/span>ed<\/span> <\/span>with<\/span> <\/span>ric<\/span>e flour<\/span>, <\/span>a <\/span>tradition that <\/span>harkens <\/span>back to <\/span>N<\/span>orthern Italy. <\/span>Peluso <\/span>explains that rice flour dries the rindless edges of the <\/span>squares<\/span> without <\/span>becoming <\/span>hard or <\/span>gummy<\/span>. <\/span>The <\/span>Pelusos<\/span> have always sourced <\/span>their <\/span>rice flour from nearby <\/span>Koda<\/span> Farms, a<\/span>n allied exemplar of multi-generational, immigran<\/span>t<\/span>–<\/span>founded<\/span>,<\/span> San<\/span> <\/span>Joaquin <\/span>Valley agriculture. <\/span>It<\/span>\u2019s <\/span>Teleme\u2019s<\/span> powdery<\/span>-lipped<\/span> whisper at terroir: a romantic pairing that rouses at least spirit-of-place. <\/span><\/p>\n

Peluso\u2019s <\/span>y<\/span>oung, freshly floured <\/span>Telemes<\/span> look like slabs of bread dough waiting to be proofed<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>T<\/span>heir <\/span>aroma isn\u2019t all that different, either. <\/span>After being<\/span> wrapped in white butcher paper and placed in <\/span>individual <\/span>boxes<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>the cheeses<\/span> mature<\/span> for three weeks<\/span> before <\/span>being<\/span> released to market. <\/span>When <\/span>they <\/span>reach<\/span> <\/span>shop<\/span>s<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>the<\/span>ir<\/span> <\/span>floury, <\/span>off-<\/span>white <\/span>surfaces<\/span> <\/span>look and feel a bit like <\/span>mochi, or giant block<\/span>s<\/span> of marzipan rolled in powdered sugar. A<\/span>nd <\/span>they\u2019re<\/span> every bit as appetizing<\/span>.<\/span> \u201c<\/span>Teleme is<\/span> <\/span>soft and look<\/span>s<\/span> kind of pudgy<\/span>; <\/span>big but delicate<\/span>,<\/span>\u201d Peluso says.<\/span> <\/span>\u201cAnd <\/span>it takes a good cheesemonger to know how to handle <\/span>and sell it.<\/span>\u201d <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

The slab<\/span>\u2019s size<\/span>\u2014<\/span>weighing<\/span> <\/span>around<\/span> 7 pounds\u2014is a relic <\/span>by<\/span> modern soft<\/span>–<\/span>cheese<\/span> standards<\/span>;<\/span> a vision of the past when Teleme\u2019s main destinations were Italian delis where several pieces would be cut up and sold each day. Franklin re<\/span>calls that when he was young,<\/span> Teleme was<\/span> even larger,<\/span> made <\/span>as<\/span> <\/span>11<\/span>-pound blocks for sandwich shops that sliced <\/span>it <\/span>right <\/span>onto bread<\/span>. <\/span>What a dream,<\/span><\/i> I <\/span>think <\/span>to myself. Now Franklin is coping with the<\/span> <\/span>growing<\/span> demand for small-format <\/span>cheeses that sell individually to the grab-n-go set. \u201cToday\u2019s market wants every cheese to resemble<\/span> commodity<\/span> bri<\/span>e<\/span>,\u201d<\/span> <\/span>quips<\/span> Peluso<\/span>. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

There was <\/span>a <\/span>push over the years to make Teleme a bit cheaper by cutting corners<\/span>,<\/span> Peluso explains\u2014like<\/span> omitting the rice flour and packaging directly in vacuum-sealed plastic<\/span>. <\/span>Although he now<\/span> <\/span>makes<\/span> <\/span>a <\/span>smaller version and <\/span>is <\/span>experiment<\/span>ing<\/span> with a<\/span> washed r<\/span>ind<\/span> <\/span>rendition,<\/span> <\/span>a priority has been staying true to Teleme\u2019s roots. <\/span>\u201c<\/span>Our family has always<\/span> insisted on making the original, traditional-style Teleme and selling it under our name<\/span>,<\/span>\u201d<\/span> Peluso says.<\/span> <\/span>At Rainbow Grocery in San <\/span>Francisco<\/span>, longtime cheese buyer Gordan Edgar <\/span>makes sure to stock the cheese in his case at all times. \u201cTeleme is a Northern California tradition, and we sell it that way,\u201d he says.  <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

But the cherished old-school cheese now faces a dubious future. Teleme continues to hold a special place in Northern Californians\u2019 kitchens and family recipe books\u2014but with no one to make it, the cheese <\/span>will <\/span>fad<\/span>e<\/span> to museum status. <\/span>Peluso<\/span>\u2014in his mid-<\/span>70s<\/span>\u2014is <\/span>the last person alive who knows how to make <\/span>authen<\/span>t<\/span>ic <\/span>Teleme<\/span>. He <\/span>insists <\/span>that he will <\/span>keep<\/span> <\/span>going<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>while <\/span>acknowledging <\/span>that<\/span> <\/span>the cheese is both difficult and <\/span>captivating<\/span> <\/span>\u201c<\/span>M<\/span>aking it has been a<\/span> constant<\/span> challeng<\/span>e<\/span>, and <\/span>that intrigues me<\/span>,<\/span>\u201d<\/span> he says.<\/span> <\/span>Peluso<\/span> stops short of voicing Teleme\u2019s imminent expiration<\/span> from <\/span>cheese<\/span> <\/span>cases<\/span>,<\/span> instead express<\/span>ing <\/span>hope <\/span>that his son will choose the same path as him, his father, and his grandfather<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

For now, <\/span>the<\/span> cheese shops and<\/span> Italian delis<\/span> <\/span>that <\/span>still <\/span>stock <\/span>Franklin\u2019s Teleme Cheese<\/span> <\/span>are the<\/span> <\/span>stewards of a local tradition <\/span>so unique it <\/span>defies definition.<\/span>\u201c<\/span>[It<\/span>\u2019<\/span>s like] <\/span>c<\/span>rescenza<\/span> but with an amazing chewy rind; t<\/span>he<\/span> inside of Taleggio but milkier; t<\/span>he best Monterey Jack<\/a> times 100<\/span>,\u201d says<\/span> <\/span>Edgar, attempting to <\/span>characterize<\/span> <\/span>the singular American Original<\/span>. \u201cThere really is no other cheese like it<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Teleme is one of California\u2019s oldest and\u00a0most\u00a0legendary\u00a0cheeses…and there’s only one man who still makes it.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":99,"featured_media":36552,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[11134,2319,2629,11137,11136,11131,11132,11130,4166,724,11139,11133,11135,11129,11138],"coauthors":[11110],"class_list":["post-36549","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-ark-of-taste","tag-california","tag-california-cheese","tag-family-cheesemaker","tag-father-son","tag-franklin-peluso","tag-franklins-teleme","tag-mid-coast-cheese-company","tag-rainbow-grocery","tag-san-francisco","tag-san-joaquin","tag-slow-food-foundation","tag-stracchino","tag-teleme","tag-telemea"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCalifornia's Most Legendary Cheese Might Be Going 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