{"id":36696,"date":"2019-05-14T11:15:12","date_gmt":"2019-05-14T15:15:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36696"},"modified":"2020-12-07T16:06:37","modified_gmt":"2020-12-07T21:06:37","slug":"discovering-cheese-and-tradition-in-the-swedish-north","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/discovering-cheese-and-tradition-in-the-swedish-north\/","title":{"rendered":"Discovering Cheese and Tradition in the Swedish North"},"content":{"rendered":"

D<\/span>riving along <\/span>Sweden\u2019s <\/span>wildflower-studded <\/span>E4 highway<\/span> <\/span>towards<\/span> <\/span>the city of<\/span> <\/span>Skellefte\u00e5, <\/span>I\u2019m<\/span> in awe of<\/span> how<\/span> the landscape<\/span> is just so<\/span>, well, <\/span>Swedish<\/span><\/i>. <\/span>There <\/span>is water in every direction<\/span>: c<\/span>alm, sprawling lakes <\/span>are <\/span>flanked <\/span>by<\/span> <\/span>picturesque<\/span> red <\/span>cabins<\/span> and<\/span> surrounded by birch trees<\/span>.<\/span> The sky is <\/span>endless and blue, the <\/span>s<\/span>un shining<\/span>:<\/span> <\/span>It\u2019s <\/span>just <\/span>what the<\/span> Swedes dream of <\/span>while <\/span>endur<\/span>ing<\/span> their long, dark <\/span>winters. There\u2019s <\/span>a sense of quiet adventure<\/span>; <\/span>this is a place<\/span> to <\/span>slow down and reconnect with nature, <\/span>to experience a <\/span>different way of life<\/span>, <\/span>or, in my case, discover <\/span>Sweden\u2019s<\/span> finest cheeses. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

I\u2019m joined <\/span>by <\/span>my personal Swede and husband, Johan. We\u2019ve driven north from Stockholm<\/a>, taking our time winding up the country\u2019s eastern coastline. We\u2019ve made overnight stops in <\/span>the lovely cities of <\/span>Falun<\/span> and S<\/span>undsvall<\/span>, <\/span>but it\u2019s finally passing the road sign welcoming us to <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten <\/span>county<\/span> that I find most thrilling.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

To me, this journey is akin to a pilgrimage: For years I have been romanticizing the region\u2019s most popular cheese: <\/span>V\u00e4sterbottensost<\/span><\/a>. A staple of Swedish life, particularly around holidays and for <\/span>kr\u00e4ftskiva <\/span><\/i>(<\/span>popular late-summer crayfish parties where the small crustaceans are baked into cheese pies<\/span>),<\/span> <\/span>I was<\/span> hooked<\/span> upon <\/span>tasting <\/span>my first crumbling, crystalline slice in 2012<\/span>\u2014<\/span>and I\u2019ve been<\/span> shuttling wedges across borders ever since. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Antique milk jugs at Svedjan Ost dairy<\/p><\/div>\n

We\u2019re<\/span> in <\/span>V\u00e4sterbottens<\/span><\/i> <\/span><\/i>l<\/span><\/i>\u00e4<\/span><\/i>n<\/span><\/i>,<\/span> <\/span>the <\/span>s<\/span>econd<\/span>–<\/span>most northern <\/span>county in Sweden<\/span> <\/span>and the <\/span>southern entry<\/span> <\/span>point <\/span>of<\/span> th<\/span>e<\/span> Lapland<\/span>, Sweden\u2019s <\/span>slice<\/span> <\/span>of<\/span> the Arctic Circle.<\/span> <\/span>This county<\/span> spans the width of the country<\/span>, with Norway to <\/span>the <\/span>west and the Gulf of Bothnia to the east.<\/span> <\/span>M<\/span>y <\/span>own <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten<\/span> experience begins<\/span> in the <\/span>northeastern city of <\/span>Skellefte\u00e5<\/span> (pronounced \u201cshell-<\/span>eff<\/span>-tee-oh\u201d)<\/span>,<\/span> which<\/span> <\/span>is<\/span> largely defined by its<\/span> all-encompassing<\/span> proximity to water. <\/span>There are h<\/span>undreds of <\/span>nearby <\/span>lakes, <\/span>many <\/span>miles of coastline<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>and five rivers<\/span>, <\/span>one of which<\/span>\u2014<\/span>the <\/span>Skellefte<\/span>\u2014<\/span>flows lazily through the city<\/span>. <\/span>(<\/span>It\u2019s<\/span> <\/span>lovely to cycle along<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>particularly <\/span>when ped<\/span>a<\/span>ling toward<\/span>s<\/span> local<\/span> craft beer<\/span>.<\/span>)<\/span> <\/span>The sun never <\/span>quite<\/span> sets during the summer<\/span>,<\/span> so <\/span>folks <\/span>stay out late<\/span> <\/span>to<\/span> <\/span>enjoy<\/span> <\/span>the<\/span> soft<\/span> light<\/span>,<\/span> pleasant temperatures<\/span>, and remarkable food scene. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

From coffee at midnight to <\/span>reindeer tartare<\/span>, <\/span>chanterelle toast<\/span> to <\/span>cloudberry jam,<\/span> <\/span>the northern Swedes <\/span>are creative <\/span>with their eats. <\/span>An<\/span> emphasis on sustainability and preservation<\/span>\u2014<\/span> <\/span>logical for th<\/span>ose long winters<\/span>\u2014<\/span>leads to innovative <\/span>dishes<\/span> <\/span>with <\/span>ingredients plucked straight from<\/span> <\/span>Nordic forests<\/span>. <\/span>V<\/span>\u00e4sterbotten<\/span> <\/span>county\u2019s two largest<\/span> cities, <\/span>Skellefte\u00e5<\/span> <\/span>and Ume\u00e5,<\/span> are<\/span> full of<\/span> <\/span>the types of <\/span>chic <\/span>caf\u00e9s<\/span> and creative eaterie<\/span>s you<\/span>\u2019d<\/span> expect <\/span>in<\/span> <\/span>cosmopolitan <\/span>Stockholm. F<\/span>usion cuisine is popular here<\/span>, <\/span>with <\/span>skilled chefs <\/span>pairing Nordic ingredients with <\/span>flavors<\/span> inspired by Japan, Thailand, <\/span>and<\/span> <\/span>the U<\/span>nited <\/span>S<\/span>tates<\/span>.<\/span> There are outstanding burgers<\/span> to be had, <\/span>gourmet licoric<\/span>e to try, <\/span>and a <\/span>rapidly <\/span>growing craft beer scene<\/span>\u2014<\/span>but I\u2019m here for <\/span>the<\/span> cheese.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Burtr\u00e4sk Mejeri dairy, where V\u00e4sterbottensost cheese is made<\/p><\/div>\n

History and Mystery <\/span><\/b> <\/span><\/p>\n

My pursuit begin<\/span>s<\/span> on a Saturday morning<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>The<\/span> destination is <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span>, a village 40 minutes south of Skellefte\u00e5. <\/span>The dairy <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> <\/span>Mejeri<\/span>, <\/span>where<\/span> <\/span>V\u00e4sterbottensost<\/span> cheese<\/span> <\/span>is made,<\/span> <\/span>is not open to guests, but a visitor\u2019s center right next door <\/span>recounts<\/span> the <\/span>elusive<\/span> origins<\/span> of <\/span>its<\/span> iconic cheese. <\/span>It all started in <\/span>1872 with a <\/span>dairymaid by the name of Ulrika Eleonora <\/span>Lindstr\u00f6m<\/span>. She <\/span>rose to head of cheese production within just three years of beginning farm work<\/span>, <\/span>praised<\/span> for her attention to detail and meticulous<\/span> record-keeping. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

One<\/span> fateful<\/span> day, Ulrika<\/span> Eleonora<\/span> <\/span>became distracted (by a lover, some say)<\/span>,<\/span> and failed to keep an eye on the vat as the milk was curdling. <\/span>While t<\/span>he resulting <\/span>wheel <\/span>was <\/span>presumed <\/span>a failure, <\/span>later<\/span> <\/span>sampling<\/span> <\/span>proved otherwise<\/span>. So the<\/span> skilled dairymaid<\/span> <\/span>adjusted her <\/span>recipe <\/span>to continue <\/span>creat<\/span>ing<\/span> the<\/span> <\/span>same <\/span>fruity,<\/span> <\/span>salty, aromatic<\/span>,<\/span> and <\/span>marvelously dewy cheese the Swedes <\/span>still <\/span>enjoy today.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

As one of Sweden\u2019s most beloved cheeses, d<\/span>emand for V\u00e4sterbottensost <\/span>regularly <\/span>exceeds supply. <\/span>To keep up, attempts have been made to produce<\/span> the cheese<\/span> outside <\/span>of <\/span>Burtr\u00e4s<\/span>k<\/span>, <\/span>but it<\/span>\u2019s<\/span> never work<\/span>ed<\/span>;<\/span> outside of this dairy,<\/span> <\/span>t<\/span>he cheese simply <\/span>does not develop<\/span> its unique character<\/span>. <\/span>While no one agree<\/span>s<\/span> on the precise reason<\/span>, <\/span>several myths have emerged<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>The<\/span> chalky,<\/span> <\/span>lime-rich <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> soil<\/span>\u2014<\/span>which <\/span>may have<\/span> <\/span>re<\/span>sulted<\/span> from <\/span>a meteorite impact millions of years ago<\/span>\u2014is often credited<\/span>. <\/span>Others argue <\/span>that the magic is in <\/span>s<\/span>easonal <\/span>lighting conditions<\/span>, as spending half the year shrouded in darkness <\/span>only to be bathed in round-the-clock <\/span>summer <\/span>light surely <\/span>impact<\/span>s<\/span> vegetation growth<\/span>. <\/span>Or c<\/span>ould it be<\/span> the<\/span> northern<\/span> cows themselves, <\/span>munching on this lively grass <\/span>springing<\/span> forth from cal<\/span>careous soil<\/span>, frolicking in the midnight sun<\/span> with more passion and zest for life than their southern <\/span>sistren<\/span>?<\/span> <\/span>Maybe it\u2019s the<\/span> spirit of Ulrika El<\/span>eonora<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>watch<\/span>ing<\/span> over <\/span>the curds<\/span> <\/span>of<\/span> each batch.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

The pastures of Svedjan Ost overlook Lake Stork\u00e4getrask<\/p><\/div>\n

More likely<\/span>, <\/span>it\u2019s the<\/span> flora <\/span>at <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> dairy<\/span>.<\/span> While <\/span>cheese <\/span>production was <\/span>moved<\/span> to a new building in the <\/span>1930s<\/span>, <\/span>most of the<\/span> original<\/span> fixtures<\/span> were <\/span>preserved<\/span>, <\/span>along with<\/span> the<\/span> <\/span>19<\/span>th<\/span>-century <\/span>presses and <\/span>linen cloths<\/span>. E<\/span>ven the brine itself<\/span> was carried over<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>bucket by <\/span>sloshing <\/span>bucket<\/span>. <\/span>The Burtr\u00e4sk dairy is quite literally <\/span>its own ecosystem of historic, thriving bacteria. <\/span>Combin<\/span>ing this <\/span>impossible-to-replicate flora <\/span>with the original (and <\/span>still <\/span>highly secretive) recipe<\/span>, produc<\/span>ed<\/span> in the same hands-on<\/span>, <\/span>attentive manner since 1872, <\/span>it seems to me that making <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten<\/span>sost anywhere else would b<\/span>e <\/span>impossible<\/span> indeed.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve actually sold 66<\/span> percent<\/span> more cheese [in the shop] this summer than <\/span>all of <\/span>last year,\u201d <\/span>says <\/span>M\u00e5rt<\/span>e<\/span>n<\/span> <\/span>Warg<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>a<\/span> visitor\u2019s center attendant<\/span>.<\/span> \u201c<\/span>T<\/span>here\u2019s so much demand we haven\u2019t even been able to keep it in stores.<\/span>\u201d A<\/span>nd a<\/span>s with most good things, <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten<\/span>s<\/span>ost<\/span> requires waiting. <\/span>Each <\/span>40-pound <\/span>wheel is aged for a minimum of 14 months on shelves made from local spruce<\/span>. <\/span>The<\/span>y\u2019re<\/span> turned each day for the first three weeks before taking a paraffin bath and retiring to the maturation room. <\/span>An <\/span>extra-aged<\/span> version<\/span>\u2014<\/span>produced in limited supply<\/span>\u2014<\/span>rests<\/span> there<\/span> for <\/span>at least <\/span>24 months<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

A<\/span>fter<\/span> purchasing a responsible quantity for myself<\/span>,<\/span> I ask <\/span>Warg<\/span> <\/span>what he<\/span> <\/span>thinks of all the <\/span>hype over <\/span>a cheese that has remained largely unchanged since <\/span>the late 1800s<\/span>. <\/span>His answer is simple: <\/span>\u201c<\/span>In my personal opinion<\/span>,<\/span> it\u2019s the best cheese in the world<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Thomas Rudin, cheesemaker at Burtr\u00e4sk<\/p><\/div>\n

History and Mystery <\/span><\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

My pursuit begin<\/span>s<\/span> on a Saturday morning<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>The<\/span> destination is <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span>, a village 40 minutes south of Skellefte\u00e5. <\/span>The dairy <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> <\/span>Mejeri<\/span>, <\/span>where<\/span> <\/span>V\u00e4sterbottensost<\/span> cheese<\/span> <\/span>is made,<\/span> <\/span>is not open to guests, but a visitor\u2019s center right next door <\/span>recounts<\/span> the <\/span>elusive<\/span> origins<\/span> of <\/span>its<\/span> iconic cheese. <\/span>It all started in <\/span>1872 with a <\/span>dairymaid by the name of Ulrika Eleonora <\/span>Lindstr\u00f6m<\/span>. She <\/span>rose to head of cheese production within just three years of beginning farm work<\/span>, <\/span>praised<\/span> for her attention to detail and meticulous<\/span> record-keeping. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

One<\/span> fateful<\/span> day, Ulrika<\/span> Eleonora<\/span> <\/span>became distracted (by a lover, some say)<\/span>,<\/span> and failed to keep an eye on the vat as the milk was curdling. <\/span>While t<\/span>he resulting <\/span>wheel <\/span>was <\/span>presumed <\/span>a failure, <\/span>later<\/span> <\/span>sampling<\/span> <\/span>proved otherwise<\/span>. So the<\/span> skilled dairymaid<\/span> <\/span>adjusted her <\/span>recipe <\/span>to continue <\/span>creat<\/span>ing<\/span> the<\/span> <\/span>same <\/span>fruity,<\/span> <\/span>salty, aromatic<\/span>,<\/span> and <\/span>marvelously dewy cheese the Swedes <\/span>still <\/span>enjoy today.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

As one of Sweden\u2019s most beloved cheeses, d<\/span>emand for V\u00e4sterbottensost <\/span>regularly <\/span>exceeds supply. <\/span>To keep up, attempts have been made to produce<\/span> the cheese<\/span> outside <\/span>of <\/span>Burtr\u00e4s<\/span>k<\/span>, <\/span>but it<\/span>\u2019s<\/span> never work<\/span>ed<\/span>;<\/span> outside of this dairy,<\/span> <\/span>t<\/span>he cheese simply <\/span>does not develop<\/span> its unique character<\/span>. <\/span>While no one agree<\/span>s<\/span> on the precise reason<\/span>, <\/span>several myths have emerged<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>The<\/span> chalky,<\/span> <\/span>lime-rich <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> soil<\/span>\u2014<\/span>which <\/span>may have<\/span> <\/span>re<\/span>sulted<\/span> from <\/span>a meteorite impact millions of years ago<\/span>\u2014is often credited<\/span>. <\/span>Others argue <\/span>that the magic is in <\/span>s<\/span>easonal <\/span>lighting conditions<\/span>, as spending half the year shrouded in darkness <\/span>only to be bathed in round-the-clock <\/span>summer <\/span>light surely <\/span>impact<\/span>s<\/span> vegetation growth<\/span>. <\/span>Or c<\/span>ould it be<\/span> the<\/span> northern<\/span> cows themselves, <\/span>munching on this lively grass <\/span>springing<\/span> forth from cal<\/span>careous soil<\/span>, frolicking in the midnight sun<\/span> with more passion and zest for life than their southern <\/span>sistren<\/span>?<\/span> <\/span>Maybe it\u2019s the<\/span> spirit of Ulrika El<\/span>eonora<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>watch<\/span>ing<\/span> over <\/span>the curds<\/span> <\/span>of<\/span> each batch.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

More likely<\/span>, <\/span>it\u2019s the<\/span> flora <\/span>at <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span> dairy<\/span>.<\/span> While <\/span>cheese <\/span>production was <\/span>moved<\/span> to a new building in the <\/span>1930s<\/span>, <\/span>most of the<\/span> original<\/span> fixtures<\/span> were <\/span>preserved<\/span>, <\/span>along with<\/span> the<\/span> <\/span>19<\/span>th<\/span>-century <\/span>presses and <\/span>linen cloths<\/span>. E<\/span>ven the brine itself<\/span> was carried over<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>bucket by <\/span>sloshing <\/span>bucket<\/span>. <\/span>The Burtr\u00e4sk dairy is quite literally <\/span>its own ecosystem of historic, thriving bacteria. <\/span>Combin<\/span>ing this <\/span>impossible-to-replicate flora <\/span>with the original (and <\/span>still <\/span>highly secretive) recipe<\/span>, produc<\/span>ed<\/span> in the same hands-on<\/span>, <\/span>attentive manner since 1872, <\/span>it seems to me that making <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten<\/span>sost anywhere else would b<\/span>e <\/span>impossible<\/span> indeed.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve actually sold 66<\/span> percent<\/span> more cheese [in the shop] this summer than <\/span>all of <\/span>last year,\u201d <\/span>says <\/span>M\u00e5rt<\/span>e<\/span>n<\/span> <\/span>Warg<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>a<\/span> visitor\u2019s center attendant<\/span>.<\/span> \u201c<\/span>T<\/span>here\u2019s so much demand we haven\u2019t even been able to keep it in stores.<\/span>\u201d A<\/span>nd a<\/span>s with most good things, <\/span>V\u00e4sterbotten<\/span>s<\/span>ost<\/span> requires waiting. <\/span>Each <\/span>40-pound <\/span>wheel is aged for a minimum of 14 months on shelves made from local spruce<\/span>. <\/span>The<\/span>y\u2019re<\/span> turned each day for the first three weeks before taking a paraffin bath and retiring to the maturation room. <\/span>An <\/span>extra-aged<\/span> version<\/span>\u2014<\/span>produced in limited supply<\/span>\u2014<\/span>rests<\/span> there<\/span> for <\/span>at least <\/span>24 months<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

A<\/span>fter<\/span> purchasing a responsible quantity for myself<\/span>,<\/span> I ask <\/span>Warg<\/span> <\/span>what he<\/span> <\/span>thinks of all the <\/span>hype over <\/span>a cheese that has remained largely unchanged since <\/span>the late 1800s<\/span>. <\/span>His answer is simple: <\/span>\u201c<\/span>In my personal opinion<\/span>,<\/span> it\u2019s the best cheese in the world<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

A New Chapter<\/span><\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

One hour north of <\/span>Burtr\u00e4sk<\/span>,<\/span> in <\/span>the<\/span> tiny locality <\/span>of<\/span> <\/span>S\u00f6dra<\/span> <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> (population: 2<\/span>0<\/span>)<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>i<\/span>s<\/span> <\/span>a<\/span> picture-perfect<\/span> <\/span>small farm<\/span> that <\/span>looks<\/span> as spectacular in person as it does on Instagram. <\/span>The <\/span>sloping green <\/span>hillsides are peppered<\/span> <\/span>with <\/span>lively<\/span> <\/span>cows<\/span> flicking<\/span> their tails against shiny coats as they amble down to <\/span>a <\/span>crisp, blue lake. <\/span>R<\/span>ed farmhouses, rustic and cozy with their white trim and tiny porches, <\/span>are scattered throughout the propert<\/span>y<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>This is<\/span> <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>Ost<\/span>, a <\/span>dairy r<\/span>u<\/span>n by husband-wife duo <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> and Johanna <\/span>Hellstr\u00f6m<\/span>. Their specialty is <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>G\u00e5rdsost<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>one of Sweden\u2019s most <\/span>decorated<\/span> <\/span>cheeses.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Johanna and P\u00e4r Hellstr\u00f6m of Svedjan Ost<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s a <\/span>warm<\/span> Sunday<\/span> when Johan and I arrive,<\/span> and we\u2019re<\/span> <\/span>just in <\/span>time for a<\/span>n afternoon of <\/span>activity<\/span>. <\/span>A <\/span>table of<\/span> cinnamon buns<\/span>, coffee, and <\/span>small sandwiches is being prepared for <\/span>fik<\/span><\/i>a<\/span><\/i>\u2014<\/span>the Swedish tradition of <\/span>taking a<\/span> <\/span>break <\/span>and a bite with colleagues<\/span>, while local artists arrange crafts for display inside a repurposed barn.<\/span> Friends, family, and visitors <\/span>are <\/span>gathering for one of the many events Johanna and <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> host <\/span>throughout the year<\/span> <\/span>to<\/span> support arts and culture<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>I keep my eyes peeled for Johanna, <\/span>who I\u2019<\/span>ve been emailing<\/span>;<\/span> <\/span>w<\/span>hen I locate her, busy with a thermos of coffee and last-minute directives for her baker-extraordinaire son<\/span> <\/span>Alfred,<\/span> she hugs me as though we\u2019re old friends. Her warmth and hospitality are infectious, her sense of community inspiring. \u201c<\/span>We have all this space,\u201d she says, gesturing with an open arm<\/span> after I remark on the dozens of smiling faces<\/span>. <\/span>\u201c<\/span>W<\/span>e may as well use it to let people come together.\u201d<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

The <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>Ost<\/span> story began <\/span>in 2009<\/span> when Johanna and <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> felt their<\/span> <\/span>former<\/span> farming life was due for a change. <\/span>An<\/span> interest in artisan foods led them on <\/span>a<\/span> journey of discovery<\/span>;<\/span> while visiting cheesemakers in southern France<\/span>,<\/span> they<\/span> <\/span>saw<\/span> the lifestyle they wanted to lead<\/span>. <\/span>\u201cCheese is a cool product,\u201d <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> says<\/span>, <\/span>as we enjoy an<\/span> open-air<\/span> <\/span>dinner of roast lamb <\/span>later that evening<\/span>. \u201c<\/span>S<\/span>wedish milk producers have been decreasing since <\/span>the <\/span>1950<\/span>s<\/span>, <\/span>and<\/span> <\/span>t<\/span>here are <\/span>fewer <\/span>people making cheese.<\/span> We <\/span>like history, we like tradition, we wanted to get into cheesemaking to <\/span>help refresh the professio<\/span>n.\u201d<\/span> <\/span>The <\/span>Hellstr\u00f6ms<\/span> knew it would take time to develop their craft, and their focus has always been on the well-being of <\/span>the <\/span>animals and land they care for, <\/span>fully <\/span>aware of how <\/span>environment connects to <\/span>what\u2019s<\/span> on our plates.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Homestead Hospitality<\/span><\/b> <\/span><\/h3>\n

The next morning begins <\/span>early, <\/span>when <\/span>Johan and I <\/span>wake up<\/span> <\/span>in a <\/span>circa-1830 <\/span>cabin. <\/span>\u201cThe first<\/span> house<\/span> in our village<\/span>,\u201d<\/span> Johanna <\/span>had told us the night before<\/span> as<\/span> we traipsed through a cow pasture<\/span> to reach <\/span>our accommodation<\/span>s. <\/span>The fire we<\/span>\u2019ve<\/span> lit to keep the mosquitos at bay h<\/span>as<\/span> long since <\/span>burned out<\/span>, and t<\/span>he sun<\/span> <\/span>i<\/span>s<\/span> already <\/span>stretching its rays across the lake as we <\/span>ma<\/span>k<\/span>e our way to the main house for coffe<\/span>e<\/span> <\/span>before continuing <\/span>to the dairy<\/span>. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

As we s<\/span>uit up in hairnets and <\/span>aprons, the first order of business is to slice open a <\/span>month-<\/span>old wheel of<\/span> <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>Bl\u00e5<\/span> <\/span>blue<\/span> cheese<\/span> for inspection. <\/span>\u201c<\/span>I want to see the eye pattern<\/span>,\u201d <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> explains, referring to the distribution of blue mol<\/span>d<\/span>.<\/span> With a swift motion<\/span> of <\/span>a <\/span>slicing wire<\/span> he<\/span> splits the cheese<\/span>, revealing a cream<\/span>y<\/span> white <\/span>center with what look<\/span>s<\/span>\u2014<\/span>to me<\/span>\u2014<\/span>like lovely patterns of blue<\/span> mold<\/span>. <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> nods <\/span>in<\/span> approval, then we taste<\/span>. <\/span>\u201cThis is not so bitter, <\/span>it\u2019s mild<\/span> in a good way<\/span>,\u201d<\/span> <\/span>he says, slicing<\/span> off<\/span> a wedge to <\/span>enjoy<\/span> <\/span>at lunch.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

P\u00e4r and Johanna examine a wheel of G\u00e4rdsost<\/p><\/div>\n

We<\/span> shu<\/span>ffle over to <\/span>the v<\/span>at <\/span>where nearly 700 liters of morning milk are<\/span> being heated to <\/span>93.2\u00b0F<\/span> <\/span>to create a new batch of <\/span>blue cheese<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> <\/span>preps <\/span>the cultures<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>w<\/span>orking so methodically I can\u2019t help but comment on his efficiency. <\/span>\u201cMy dream is to have routines,\u201d he says<\/span>.<\/span> \u201c<\/span>W<\/span>hen you have routines you have 50<\/span> percent<\/span> of the work taken care of.\u201d<\/span> <\/span>I can\u2019t argue with <\/span>his <\/span>logic<\/span>, <\/span>so I just watch<\/span> the artist at work.<\/span> <\/span>\u201cTradition is very important,<\/span> but to be <\/span>too<\/span> strict is kind of boring<\/span>,<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> <\/span>explains. As<\/span> a<\/span> modern<\/span> cheesemaker, he<\/span>\u2019<\/span>s on a constant<\/span> quest to find the best flavors<\/span> and<\/span> textures<\/span>, <\/span>using all the tools that are available to <\/span>him. <\/span>\u201c<\/span>But t<\/span>o<\/span> <\/span>have your starting point in tradition,<\/span>\u201d he adds, \u201c<\/span>g<\/span>ives <\/span>meaning and pleasure<\/span>.\u201d<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

After the rennet has <\/span>done its <\/span>part <\/span>and <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> is <\/span>giving the <\/span>cut <\/span>curds a stir, <\/span>he muses aloud<\/span>:<\/span> <\/span>\u201cI wonder if in 50 years someone else will be standing here<\/span>, talking about tradition and how all of this started with two farmers who wanted to change their lives<\/span>.\u201d<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Saleta Beiro of Visit Skellefte\u00e4 greets a cow at Svedjan Ost<\/p><\/div>\n

The scale of what these humble farmers have created becomes apparent when<\/span> <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> leads us to the aging room, <\/span>where 16,500 pounds of<\/span> <\/span>Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>G\u00e5rdsost<\/span> <\/span>rest<\/span> on spruce shelves<\/span>. <\/span>This aged farmstead cheese boast<\/span>s<\/span> <\/span>notes of ripe pear<\/span> and citrus balanced by <\/span>subtle nut-butter flavors; <\/span>it<\/span> develops l<\/span>ovely crystals<\/a> <\/span>while aging <\/span>for at least <\/span>14 month<\/span>s<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>As w<\/span>e wander through the rows, shelves laden with cheese in various states of maturation from three weeks to <\/span>nearly four years,<\/span> <\/span>my thoughts<\/span> mischievously<\/span> turn to <\/span>the logistics of smuggling<\/span> <\/span>one <\/span>of<\/span> <\/span>the 33-pound wheels<\/span> out of the country.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Svedjan<\/span> <\/span>G\u00e5rdsost<\/span> <\/span>has won the popular vote for <\/span>best cheese <\/span>three years<\/span> in a row<\/span> at<\/span> the <\/span>annual <\/span>Stockholm Cheese <\/span>Festival<\/span>;<\/span> <\/span>it has earned <\/span>two<\/span> silver and three gold medals <\/span>in<\/span> <\/span>the <\/span>Eldrimner<\/span> Food <\/span>Craftsmanship championships<\/span>,<\/span> <\/span>a yearly<\/span> competition for food producers <\/span>in the Nordic countries; and even found its way onto the table <\/span>at<\/span> the <\/span>2017 Nobel Prize dinner<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span>Inspired by their accolades and<\/span> fully in love<\/span> with their way of life on the far<\/span>m<\/span>\u2014<\/span>which they run alongside their<\/span> daughter<\/span> and cheesemaker prodigy<\/span>, <\/span>Matilda<\/span>\u2014<\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> and Johanna<\/span> <\/span>aren\u2019t <\/span>ready to call it a day<\/span>.<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI definitely think our best cheese <\/span>i<\/span>s yet to come,\u201d <\/span>P\u00e4r<\/span> says<\/span> over lunc<\/span>h<\/span>, holding up the piece of blue he sliced earlier that morning, admiring it in the daylight.<\/span> Johanna<\/span> nods <\/span>in <\/span>agreement<\/span> and a<\/span>dds: <\/span>\u201c<\/span>[We try to] l<\/span>ook for traditions and create something new<\/span>.<\/span>\u201d<\/span> <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Spring in Sweden means blue lakes, picturesque hills, endless skies…and some delicious cheese.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":99,"featured_media":36726,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354,11],"tags":[12014,12015,12037,12034,12033,11986,12030,12036,12035,12032,12031,5691,11987,1650,12016,11988],"coauthors":[5416],"class_list":["post-36696","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","category-travel","tag-burtrask","tag-burtrask-mejeri","tag-eldrimner-food-craftsmanship","tag-johanna-helstrom","tag-par-hellstrom","tag-skelleftea","tag-sodra-svedjan","tag-stockholm-cheese-festival","tag-svedjan-bla","tag-svedjan-gardsost","tag-svedjan-ost","tag-sweden","tag-swedish","tag-swedish-cheese","tag-ulrika-eleonora-lindstrom","tag-vasterbottensost"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDiscovering 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