{"id":36908,"date":"2019-07-16T14:12:47","date_gmt":"2019-07-16T18:12:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36908"},"modified":"2022-01-26T13:45:52","modified_gmt":"2022-01-26T18:45:52","slug":"robiola-rhapsody","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/robiola-rhapsody\/","title":{"rendered":"Cheese Styles: Robiola"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span class=\"wpsdc-drop-cap\">T<\/span>his story ends with a demolished disk of cheese. Flattened by swooping baguette or scooped with a spoon until all that\u2019s left is a withered wisp of wrinkly rind, it\u2019s the first casualty of your cheese board every single time. But where did it begin? As in the case of most cheeses, a search for robiola\u2019s origin story takes us back to an Old World village that seems frozen in time. Snow-capped peaks frame its green hillsides, dotted with bearded, carefully bred caprines perched on patches of terraced land.<\/p>\n<p>That village is Roccaverano and the region is Piedmont: northwestern Italy\u2019s gustatory heartland. It\u2019s the land of white truffles, the Slow Food movement, and the Nebbiolo grape. Wedged between the Alps and the Mediterranean, Piedmont is where mountains meet hills. Agile goats have long roamed the slopes in a southeastern section called Alta Langa, grazing on herbs and shrubs, while isolated towns and villages bred distinct herds and developed eponymous cheeses.<\/p>\n<h3>Rustic<\/h3>\n<p>The original Robiola di Roccaverano cheese, made from milk of the Roccaverano goat, probably came from a place called\u2014you guessed it\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/blog\/cheese-journeys-passport-garessio-italy\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Roccaverano<\/a>. According to Fabrizio Garbarino, a farmer and cheesemaker from that same hilltop Piedmont village, robiola was made in Roccaverano before the Romans arrived; its origins could date back as far as 1,200 years to the time of Arab invasions, when goats were first introduced to the area.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_36913\" style=\"width: 2260px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-36913\" class=\"wp-image-36913 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Pattern-copy-e1563299370716.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"2250\" height=\"1500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Pattern-copy-e1563299370716.jpg 2250w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Pattern-copy-e1563299370716-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Pattern-copy-e1563299370716-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Pattern-copy-e1563299370716-1024x683.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2250px) 100vw, 2250px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-36913\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Tur and Robiola Bosina<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In the landscape of cheese from Italy\u2014a country famous for rock-hard grana wheels and stretched-curd pasta filatas like mozzarella and provolone\u2014soft, bloomy-rind robiola is unique. \u201cIt\u2019s one of the most ancient goat\u2019s milk cheeses in Italy,\u201d says Garbarino, who also serves as president of the Robiola di Roccaverano PDO consortium, the country\u2019s only Protected Designation of Origin label for a goat\u2019s milk cheese. \u201cIt\u2019s one of the only ancient Italian cheeses made with lactic transformation,\u201d he adds, referring to a long acidification that occurs before milk coagulates\u2014a process more often found in the traditional goat\u2019s milk cheeses of France.<\/p>\n<p>The practice is simple and slow. Raw goat\u2019s milk (or a mix of goat\u2019s milk and up to 50 percent cow\u2019s milk) is left to acidify for up to 36 hours. Bacteria\u2014present in the raw milk and sometimes boosted with a bit of leftover whey\u2014consume the milk\u2019s sugars and create acid until a yogurt-y consistency develops. A small amount of animal rennet might be added to slightly firm up the curd, which is then left in a tall cylindrical mold as whey drains out slowly over two days. After salting and four subsequent days of aging, the cheese earns its PDO label and can be sold.<\/p>\n<p>Young <em>fresco<\/em> versions are soft and spreadable, either rindless or with a velvety layer of mold. After 10 days of aging, disks become <em>affinato<\/em>, or \u201cripened.\u201d They\u2019re still supple and yielding in the paste, but they\u2019ve grown a rind, its hue and texture dictated by the microbes present in the raw milk and in the environment on the farm. It\u2019s a mix of fuzz and wrinkles; a range from bone-white to light pink-orange.<\/p>\n<p>In cheese time, 10 days is not so long; most versions of Robiola di Roccaverano are essentially sold fresh. But in the United States, it\u2019s a different story. Since it\u2019s made with unpasteurized milk, Robiola di Roccaverano must be aged at least 60 days to be sold legally. For such a young and soft cheese, a two-month maturation is a challenge\u2014a timeline that fundamentally changes the cheese. Garabino, one of only 17 producers of the mostly farmstead PDO cheese, sighs with exasperation\u2014and a hint of pity\u2014when he describes the cheese\u2019s absence from American cheese counters. \u201cWe are very clean, and you should trust in us,\u201d he says. \u201cBut&#8230;you are scared from the raw milk.\u201d He\u2019s right\u2014and if you\u2019ve never heard of Robiola di Roccaverano, that\u2019s probably why.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_36911\" style=\"width: 1510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-36911\" class=\"wp-image-36911 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Balance-copy.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Balance-copy.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Balance-copy-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Balance-copy-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Balance-copy-1024x683.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-36911\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rochetta<\/p><\/div>\n<h3>Renewed<\/h3>\n<p>Even if you\u2019ve never heard of Robiola di Roccaverano, you\u2019ve probably heard of La Tur. When Piedmont-based dairy Caseificio dell\u2019Alta Langa introduced this pasteurized twist on robiola to the US in the early 2000s, it was singular on the market; a mixed-milk, soft-ripened cheese from Italy was uncommon. The caseificio began by exporting small quantities of two other robiola-style cheeses, Rochetta (a fresh cow\u2019s, sheep\u2019s, and goat\u2019s milk mix) and Robiola Bosina (a cow\u2019s and sheep\u2019s milk blend). Soon, distributors in the US took notice. When The Cheese Works (now known as CWI Specialty Foods) began placing big orders for Alta Langa\u2019s super-soft, triple-milk button La Tur, it wasn\u2019t long before the robiola-style cheese gained a cult following.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s not hard to understand why: with a beguiling mix of approachability and complexity, La Tur is easy to love. In her cheese column for the San Francisco Chronicle, writer Janet Fletcher dubbed it \u201cas close to love as a cheese can get.\u201d In a piece for Thrillist, cheese blogger Erika Kubick described it as \u201cthe cream dream.\u201d In Bon App\u00e9tit, digital director Carey Polis called it \u201ceverything I want in a cheese.\u201d La Tur\u2019s mousse-like paste is as crowd-pleasing and spreadable as that of ubiquitous supermarket brie\u2014but it lacks the brie\u2019s chewy, obtrusive rind. Flavors are mild and creamy, yet a closer sniff reveals multi-layered notes of sour cream, butter, and mushrooms, prolonged by a fatty stratum that sticks around.<\/p>\n<p>When a cheese is that likeable, selling it is a cinch. \u201cActually, we never relied on marketing strategies,\u201d says Nicola Merlo, CEO of Caseificio dell\u2019Alta Langa. \u201cOur approach was to make customers try the products, and we relied on word of mouth.\u201d As a result of its \u201cunexpected success,\u201d she adds, \u201cLa Tur started selling very well before other cheeses in the robiola category.\u201d<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_36914\" style=\"width: 1510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-36914\" class=\"wp-image-36914 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Texture-copy.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2250\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Texture-copy.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Texture-copy-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Texture-copy-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola_Texture-copy-683x1024.jpg 683w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-36914\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosie&#8217;s Robiola and Rocket&#8217;s Robiola<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In bringing robiola styles stateside, Alta Langa achieved a feat that was previously out of reach for the typical Piedmont producer. The caseificio is set in robiola country, just a stone\u2019s throw from the village of Roccaverano (and it even produces a PDO version of the traditional cheese for its non-US customers), but it\u2019s decidedly larger and more modern than the family farms that surround it.<\/p>\n<p>Today the dairy exports a multitude of robiola styles in varying milk mixes and stages of maturation. According to Merlo, that variation itself riffs on regional tradition; in an area where cheese was typically made on small farms that kept a mix of animals, milk supply changed with the seasons (that\u2019s also the reason traditional Robiola di Roccaverano PDO can be made with up to 50 percent cow\u2019s milk).<\/p>\n<p>\u201cFarmers would mix different milks, and we wanted to reinterpret this old tradition in our cheeses,\u201d Merlo says, adding that every milk has its own taste and character. Combining them in the right percentages brings out the best in each, without any one dominating. \u201cThe cow\u2019s milk is the base, the sheep\u2019s milk adds the sweetness, and the goat\u2019s milk adds the sharpness,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n<h3>Reinvented<\/h3>\n<p>Merlo doesn\u2019t hesitate to use the term \u201crobiola\u201d to describe all her cheeses. While Robiola di Roccaverano PDO might be traced to a single goat breed and a single village, she says, \u201crobiola\u201d is a moniker with a much broader meaning. \u201cIt\u2019s a general name that indicates a soft-ripened cheese which is not too aged,\u201d she explains, adding that it may originate from the Latin term ruber (\u201cred\u201d or \u201cruddy\u201d),a reference to the slight scarlet tinge that sometimes develops on its rind.<\/p>\n<p>Following the success of cheeses like La Tur, plenty of Italian producers are now exporting soft-ripened robiola styles and experimenting with mixed-milk alchemy. Robiola La Contessa, for example, is a cow\u2019s and sheep\u2019s milk robiola imported by Ambrosi Food. Made at a dairy called Marenchino in the Alta Langa region, the cheese\u2019s success has helped save the Pecora della Langa sheep from extinction. Guffanti Formaggi, an affineur based in Piedmont, ages and exports over a dozen twists on robiola\u2014from the buffalo\u2019s milk Robiola di Bufala, a dense, ultra-buttery disk that feels more like an Italian take on a brie or camembert, to versions wrapped in fig, cherry, chestnut, or cabbage leaves.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_36910\" style=\"width: 1510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-36910\" class=\"wp-image-36910 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola-Form_2-copy-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1500\" height=\"2250\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola-Form_2-copy-1.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola-Form_2-copy-1-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola-Form_2-copy-1-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Robiola-Form_2-copy-1-683x1024.jpg 683w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-36910\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robiola di Bosco<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Of course, it follows that American producers are now experimenting with their own versions of the Italian cheese. Samantha Genke of North Carolina\u2013based <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/article\/best-cheeses-year-south\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Boxcarr Handmade Cheese<\/a> first discovered Robiola di Roccaverano PDO while traveling in Piedmont, visiting producers and staying with local friends. \u201cWe had the real thing fresh,\u201d she says. \u201cActually, I don\u2019t think we ate much else for about a month.\u201d But after she got home, a search for the fresh Italian cheese was fruitless. \u201cBy the time we get access to robiolas herein North Carolina, they tend to be a little too ripe,\u201d she says. \u201cSo we started making robiola because we love robiola. And we wanted robiola.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Genke teamed up with close friend <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/article\/best-cheeses-year-south\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Alessandra Trompeo<\/a>, a Piedmont transplant, to create an homage to the Italian cheese. Fully aware that their milk and local terroir would render this robiola very different, the duo didn\u2019t stick to a specific recipe. The idea was to use Robiola di Roccaverano as inspiration, and just experiment. After years of testing, it\u2019s evolved into a cow\u2019s milk square called Rosie\u2019s Robiola, a gorgeous cheese with a blushing, wrinkly rind and an oozing cream line that creeps towards a chalky paste. The team also makes Rocket\u2019s Robiola, a version dusted in ash inspired by cheeses from the Loire Valley in France. Neither of these is Robiola di Roccaverano, Genke admits. They\u2019re adaptations. \u201cWe kind of winged it. We totally Americanized it,\u201d Genke says.<\/p>\n<h3>Ripened<\/h3>\n<p>As for the cheese that first inspired Genke, it\u2019s not impossible to find in the United States. The family at Guffanti Formaggi ages a version of <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Robiola-di-Roccaverano\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Robiola di Roccaverano PDO<\/a> for two months in order to sell it in the US, slowing down the maturation process by keeping the disks at slightly cooler temperatures. Giovanni Guffanti Fiori, second-generation co-owner of the company, notes that it\u2019s not uncommon to find Robiola di Roccaverano sold after 60 or 70 days of maturation in Italy\u2014sometimes, it\u2019s even aged up to a year and grated onto pasta. It\u2019s still good, he adds, as long as \u201cthe taste fills the palate without becoming aggressive or spicy.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Even if you\u2019ve never met a robiola style you didn\u2019t like, there\u2019s something about this one that sets it apart\u2014like the added oomph you get from a taste of cultured butter instead of a stick from the supermarket. It\u2019s clean and creamy, with a fluffy, cheesecake-like center, but a bite yields a complex finish balanced with bitterness, tang, and funk. The rind is soft with an almost liquid cream line that readily collapses unless it\u2019s handled with utmost gentleness.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s not hard to imagine why all those disks, from La Tur to Rosie\u2019s Robiola, pay tribute to this Piedmont cheese. Maybe it\u2019s the unpasteurized base, or the fact that this version is made with 100 percent goat\u2019s milk. Or maybe it\u2019s the image of the Alta Langa, with its hills and vineyards and stone villages. Either way, everything about this cheese is easy to love. Pass the spoon?<\/p>\n<p><em>Photographed by Nina Gallant.&nbsp;<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Styled by Chantal Lambeth.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-36909 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Summer2019_StyleFeature_TastingNotes.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1559\" height=\"2994\" srcset=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Summer2019_StyleFeature_TastingNotes.jpg 1559w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Summer2019_StyleFeature_TastingNotes-156x300.jpg 156w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Summer2019_StyleFeature_TastingNotes-768x1475.jpg 768w, https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/Summer2019_StyleFeature_TastingNotes-533x1024.jpg 533w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1559px) 100vw, 1559px\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Soft, bloomy-rind robiola is one of the most ancient goat&#8217;s milk cheeses in Italy. And it&#8217;s getting an American makeover.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":36912,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[15,26354],"tags":[16527,16525,4104,3182,16522,12165,16517,16524,16520,16519,16521,16518,12166,16523,16526],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-36908","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cheese-iq","category-stories","tag-alessandra-trompeo","tag-boxcarr","tag-boxcarr-handmade-cheese","tag-la-tur","tag-nicola-merlo","tag-robiola","tag-robiola-bosina","tag-robiola-di-bosco","tag-robiola-la-contessa","tag-robiola-la-roccaverano-pdo","tag-roccaverano","tag-rochetta","tag-rockets-robiola","tag-rosies-robiola","tag-samantha-genke"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Meet Robiola, Your New Favorite Cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Soft, bloomy-rind robiola is one of the most ancient goat&#039;s milk cheeses in Italy. And it&#039;s getting an American makeover.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/robiola-rhapsody\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cheese Styles: Robiola\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Soft, bloomy-rind robiola is one of the most ancient goat&#039;s milk cheeses in Italy. 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