{"id":36955,"date":"2019-07-22T14:37:36","date_gmt":"2019-07-22T18:37:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=36955"},"modified":"2019-07-24T14:37:17","modified_gmt":"2019-07-24T18:37:17","slug":"ruminations-getting-my-goats","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/ruminations-getting-my-goats\/","title":{"rendered":"Ruminations: Getting My Goats"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span data-contrast=\"none\"><span class=\"wpsdc-drop-cap\">T<\/span>here are times when I question my life choices\u2014like when I\u2019m shivering in an old crumbling barn with the vet until midnight, only to set my alarm for 3<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;a.m.<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;and again for 5<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;a.<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">m.<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\"> so I can check on a goat who\u2019s in labor. I steadied myself that particular evening by summoning the specter of <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/ruminations\/master-class\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mary Holbrook<\/a>, a pioneering British <\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">cheesemaker<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;who had passed away suddenly just weeks prior. Her death had left a void in the firmament of women in artisan cheese, and I found myself staring down her legacy as I began my own improbable pursuit: a goat dairy of my very own.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">Mary<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u2019s cheese found its way to me via the <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/article\/the-cheese-photographer-were-obsessed-with\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Bedford Cheese Shop<\/a>, a Brooklyn haunt I frequented back when I was a wine buyer and graduate student with barely formed dreams of making cheese. But it wasn\u2019t until years later, after I\u2019d successfully heeded the siren call of another fierce female goat farmer\u2014<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/blog\/artisanal-alchemy-lazy-lady-farm\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">Laini<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Fondiller<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;of Lazy Lady Farm\u2014and begun my gamble as a Vermont butter and cheese maker that I stumbled on Mary\u2019s story and felt an instant kinship.&nbsp;<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">As I discovered,&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Laini<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;and Mary had a lot in common, which may explain why they compelled me so profoundly. Both began crafting goat cheese decades ago, well before&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u201c<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">ch\u00e8vre<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u201d was the ubiquitous term it is now, and both were instrumental in bringing the concept of seasonal, handmade goat cheese into public consciousness. As fortune dictated, it was&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Laini<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;whom I got to know intimately over the course of several seasons; I left New York City in 2014 to work as an assistant on her totally off-the-grid farm in the far reaches of northern Vermont. Mary remained a distant legend until 2018, when a chance encounter with one of her former employees inspired me to seek an apprenticeship at <a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/article\/creating-curd-thistle\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Sleight Farm<\/a>, her dairy in the English countryside. By then I\u2019d been working with goats and making cheese for four years, but the prospect of adding to my dairy toolbox at the elbow of a woman I admired seemed an opportunity too good to pass up.&nbsp;<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">I began making arrangements for my trip as summer ended, but a combination of financial obstacles and a labor shortage at Lazy Lady<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">forced me to cancel my plans. Dreams of learning to cut the curd for thistle-rennet&nbsp;<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/cheese-library\/Cardo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">Cardo<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;with my bare arms and shape the&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Valen\u00e7ay<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">-like&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Tymsboro<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;alongside Mary faded into the background as I drafted an apologetic email letting her know my change of plans. Ever graceful, Mary expressed her regret and left an open invitation for a future visit.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">A month after what would have been my departure date to the UK, just as milking season wound down at Lazy Lady and I was casting about for&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">The Next Thing To Do<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">, an opportunity to rent a barn and creamery and&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">acquire several retired&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">milking does<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;materialized. In a matter of months I went from part-time farmhand and&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">dairymaker<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;to full-time business owner and&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">goatherdess<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">, a transformation that has been equal parts terrifying and exhilarating. In a&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">bittersweet turn of events, I heard of Mary\u2019s passing just weeks after settling in to this little farm I now call my own.&nbsp;<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">The older I get, the more I see the paths not taken slowly fading from view&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">as the one that seemed destined all along unfurls before me. I am bereft at Mary\u2019s passing and at the unfulfilled chance to learn from someone whose&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">life<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">\u2019s work made it possible for me to do what I do. But I also recognize that had I gone forward with my overseas plans, my own farm would not have come to be. While I mourn Mary\u2019s loss and feel the sting of a path no longer available to me, I marvel at the deeply felt mentorship that Mary\u2019s American counterpart,&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Laini<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Fondiller<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">, has provided me. These two women have charted my course in ways both subtle and visceral, have engendered examples of what is possible<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">, and<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">&nbsp;<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">laid the groundwork for all that I hope to do. I am determined not to let them down.&nbsp;<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335559740&quot;:276}\">&nbsp;<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Culture contributor Lauren Gitlin reflects on her relationships with cheesemaking legends Mary Holbrook and Laini Fondiller.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":99,"featured_media":36957,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[590],"tags":[2490,1290,16650,1863,16652,16651,2457,16653,16654,2637,4177],"coauthors":[16634],"class_list":["post-36955","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ruminations","tag-bedford-cheese-shop","tag-cardo","tag-laini-fondiller","tag-lazy-lady-farm","tag-lazy-lady-farms","tag-mary-holbrook","tag-ruminations","tag-sleight-farm","tag-tynsboro","tag-women","tag-women-in-cheese"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v24.4 (Yoast SEO v24.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>How Two Female Cheesemakers 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