{"id":37012,"date":"2019-08-11T07:45:35","date_gmt":"2019-08-11T11:45:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37012"},"modified":"2021-02-26T16:17:39","modified_gmt":"2021-02-26T21:17:39","slug":"5-japanese-cheesemakers-you-need-to-know","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/5-japanese-cheesemakers-you-need-to-know\/","title":{"rendered":"5 Japanese Cheesemakers You Need to Know"},"content":{"rendered":"

Y<\/span>ou <\/span>may have <\/span>never <\/span>given a thought to Japanese cheese<\/span>, but we w<\/span>on\u2019t<\/span> blame you<\/span>. <\/span>Asian<\/span> <\/span>countries aren’t<\/span> exactly famed for <\/span>fromage<\/span>,<\/span> and you\u2019ve probably never seen a Japanese wheel behind your local cheese counter. <\/span>B<\/span>ut think about it: Doesn\u2019t Japan already possess many of the prerequisites for a thriving cheese scene? There\u2019s a history <\/span>of <\/span>complex <\/span>culinary tradition<\/span>s<\/span> <\/span>and <\/span>fervent <\/span>fermentation<\/span>. <\/span>There\u2019s a<\/span> culture<\/span> <\/span>famously hungry for invention <\/span>that\u2019s <\/span>open to new ideas. Oh, and the Japanese literally<\/span> <\/span>discover<\/span><\/i>ed <\/span><\/i>umami. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

All over the world, Japanese artisan cheese is flying under the radar. At the same <\/span>time<\/span>, the number of artisan cheesemakers in Japan continues to climb. <\/span>In a country that\u2019s never been considered a dairy destination, <\/span>these makers are<\/span> testing the limits of what cheese encompasses, circumventing the traditions of Europe to <\/span>create <\/span>something unique and entirely their own. Below are 5 cheesemakers to keep an eye on. <\/span><\/p>\n

1. Mirasaka Fromage<\/h2>\n
\"\"

Cheesemaker Masanori Matsubara and his goats.<\/p><\/div>\n

Masanori Matsubara used to question the environmental impact of dairy farming. As a young man, he worked several jobs on commercial dairies in the United States and Australia. Those experiences made him wonder: Is it possible to produce cheese in a way that truly values the health of the land and the happiness of the animals?<\/p>\n

Matsubara\u2019s quest began with a trip to France in 2004 to study cheesemaking. Three years later, he returned to Japan to establish Mirasaka Fromage\u2014his very own artisan farmstead\u2014in the forests of rural Hiroshima Prefecture.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Mirasaka Fromage\u2019s herds of goats and Brown Swiss cows now graze freely in a mix of pasture and partially cleared forest. Diets vary according to the season, alternating between grasses in the spring and fallen chestnuts in autumn.<\/p>\n

Matsubara responds to his milk\u2019s seasonal fluctuations by approaching each cheese as a work of art. Sakura Mochi (\u3055\u304f\u3089\u3082\u3061), his springtime creation, shares an uncanny resemblance to the Japanese dessert with the same name. Carre de Lavende, topped with a sprig of lavender, is released in the summer. Lastly, Jyukushi Kaki (\u3058\u3085\u304f\u3057\u67ff), his washed-rind autumnal cheese, is made to directly resemble a ripe persimmon.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Fromage de Mirasaka with Rosemary<\/p><\/div>\n

As for year-round options, Mirasaka\u2019s award-winning Fromage de Mirasaka is wrapped in an oak leaf and produced in both goat\u2019s and cow\u2019s milk varieties. The former was awarded silver at the 2013 Mondial du Fromage, while the latter took home gold at the very next Mondial du Fromage in 2015.<\/p>\n

Matsubara\u2019s cheeses have recently garnered major attention\u2014though his journey is far from over. Mirasaka Fromage will continue to set the urgent example, both at home and abroad, of what it takes to manufacture a dairy product while maintaining an intricate balance with nature and the seasons.<\/p>\n

2. Fromagerie Sen<\/h2>\n
\"\"

Fromagerie Sen<\/p><\/div>\n

Microbes\u2014which play a role in every step of the cheesemaking process\u2014are what drew Chiyo Shibata to the cheese industry. A trained microbiologist and artisan producer with a deep understanding of tiny life forms, she\u2019s amassed an impressive following among Japanese cheese lovers.<\/p>\n

Shibata launched Fromagerie Sen from a cheese room next to her traditional cottage in the town of Otaki, an hour-and-a-half outside Tokyo. Sourcing her milk from a Holstein herd on a neighbor\u2019s farm less than 200 feet away, the cheesemaker has since directed efforts back into her local community\u2014the fromagerie hosts a small market in Otaki on the first Sunday of each month. It\u2019s a festive atmosphere that gathers various folks from around Chiba Prefecture. Cheeses tend to sell out quickly, so the crowds come early.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Chiyo Shibata<\/p><\/div>\n

Fromagerie Sen\u2019s popularity is largely the result of Shibata\u2019s success at the 2016 All Japan Natural Cheese Contest. The award-winning cheese, Takesumi (\u7af9\u3059\u307f), is dusted in bamboo ash, aged on site, and formed to resemble a soft round of mochi.<\/p>\n

Shibata, though, hasn\u2019t overlooked the microorganisms that remain hard at work. During tastings, the cheesemaker exhibits her own bacteria cultures in petri dishes while extolling the microbiological benefits of raw-milk cheesemaking. A proponent of indigenous Japanese microbes, she\u2019s recently created an exclusive label for Japanese cheeses produced using native cultures. Like some of the most devoted artisanal producers around the world, Chiyo Shibata reminds us of the importance of local microbial terroir.<\/p>\n

3. Atelier de Fromage<\/h2>\n
\"\"

Atelier’s award-winning Fromage Bleu<\/p><\/div>\n

Outside of Japan, Nagano Prefecture is best known as a mountain destination with ski slopes and hot springs. Increasingly, however, the land-locked region has also attracted Japanese artisanal cheesemakers in search of quality pastures and pristine mountain water.<\/p>\n

Such was the case back in 1980, when Shigeo and Yoko Matsuoka left behind corporate careers to explore natural cheese production. However, they quickly realized that the production of a quality brie or camembert style would first involve a journey to France.<\/p>\n

Shigeo and Yoko spent an entire year studying cheesemaking at the French Ecole Nationale d\u2019Industrie Laiti\u00e8re. Upon their return home, the duo purchased a small cheese room in Nagano and, beginning with the production of fromage frais and camembert, established Atelier de Fromage in 1982.<\/p>\n

The Nagano couple were the first artisan cheesemakers in Japan to produce either a brie style or a fromage frais. The range has now expanded to over 20 different cheeses, many of which can be found at their very own restaurant in Tokyo. Instead of resting on their laurels, however, Atelier de Fromage continues to send their cheesemakers on regular trips to France to expand their knowledge of different styles.<\/p>\n

Atelier\u2019s Fromage Bleu, inspired by French recipes, is a cow\u2019s milk blue resembling the varieties of Southern France, like Roquefort or Bleu de Causses. With creamier and stronger flavors than most other blue cheeses found in Japan, it\u2019s been a regular favorite at Japanese cheese contests. It even managed to earn a Super Gold at the 2015 Mondial du Fromage in France.<\/p>\n

Nowadays, Atelier de Fromage is far from the only artisan cheese producer in Nagano. However, the cheesemaker\u2019s commitment to French tradition and its award-winning blues prove that the mountains of Japan offer more than skiing and onsens<\/em>.<\/p>\n

4. Ima Farm Cheese Factory<\/h2>\n
\"\"

Chausudake at different ages<\/p><\/div>\n

Ima Farm, located in the volcanic, forest-covered Nasu Highlands of Tochigi Prefecture (a few hours north of Tokyo), relies upon its healthy herds of Saanen goats, Brown Swiss cows, and Holstein cows to generate unrivaled European-style cheeses. For Yuko and Yukari Takahashi, producing high-quality milk has always been the top priority.<\/p>\n

In 2002, Yuko spent a year studying dairy farming in northern Germany. He returned to Japan inspired by age-old cheeses and European milking techniques. Since then, he\u2019s visited Europe on successive occasions with the aim of expanding the farm\u2019s repertoire of goat cheeses.<\/p>\n

Ima Farm produces fresh cow and goat varieties, two washed rinds, a couple of aged goat cheeses, and one semi-hard wheel. Each cheese is given a specific name corresponding to a location within the Nasu region. Japanese cheeses deserve to be named in the same way that many traditional European cheeses were named based upon region of origin, argue Yuko and Yukari.<\/p>\n

Ima Farm\u2019s Chausudake (\u8336\u81fc\u5cb3), named after a local mountain meaning \u201ctea grinder peak,\u201d resembles French Valen\u00e7ay with an ash-dusted exterior and truncated pyramid shape. Chausudake rose to prominence in 2018 when an invited judge from France awarded it \u201cForeign Favorite\u201d at the biannual Japan Cheese Awards.<\/p>\n

Recent success hasn\u2019t interfered with the Takahashis\u2019 shared vision of what\u2019s important. In 2016, Yuko told a reporter that \u201cyou can make bad cheese from good milk, but you can never make good cheese from bad milk.\u201d Luckily for Ima Farm, emphasis remains on a happy herd and its precious milk.<\/p>\n

5. Kyodogakusha Shintoku Farm<\/h2>\n
\"\"

Nozomu Miyajima in his raclette cave.<\/p><\/div>\n

Two and a half hours east of Sapporo, on Japan\u2019s mountainous northern island of Hokkaido, Kyodogakusha Shintoku Farm sits in the shadow of a dormant volcano. The location is no coincidence. Award-winning cheesemaker Nozomu Miyajima attributes his cheesemaking success in large part to the region\u2019s volcanic soils and naturally filtered waters.<\/p>\n

After finishing his dairy science degree at Wisconsin State University, Miyajima established Kyodogakusha in 1989. Upon returning to Hokkaido, he was gifted 30 acres by the local government on the condition that he provide work for disadvantaged locals.<\/p>\n

Having since expanded to 150 acres, Kyodogakusha operates as a full-scale biodynamic farm and dairy. With a Japanese craftsman\u2019s attention to detail, Miyajima even designed a step-down, pumpless system allowing for the natural flow of milk from parlor to cheese caves.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Sakura<\/p><\/div>\n

Balancing craft and terroir, Miyajimahas developed a distinctive collection of Japanese cheeses: Sakagura (\u9152\u8535) is washed in local sake, Yachi Yanagi (\u30e4\u30c1\u30e4\u30ca\u30ae) is dusted with locally harvested Dutch myrtle, and Sasayuki (\u7b39\u96ea), a camembert style, is wrapped in bamboo leaf picked on the farm.<\/p>\n

Creatively incorporating Japanese elements has earned Miyajima recognition on the world stage. Kyodogakusha\u2019s Sakura, an homage to Japan\u2019s iconic springtime blossom, won Gold at the 2015 Mondial du Fromage competition in France. Wrapped in a shiso leaf, the cheese comes ornamented with a single pickled cherry blossom. Another award winner, Kyodogakusha\u2019s Raclette, brought home second in its category at the 2010 World Championship Cheese Contest in Wisconsin. Miyajima claims the Raclette\u2019s unique character comes from the hot spring water used to wash the cheese during aging.<\/p>\n

While a perfect environment doesn\u2019t guarantee an award-winning dairy product, Miyajima\u2014like many others around the world\u2014has demonstrated that an awareness of nature and a creative vision go hand in hand with success in the cheese industry.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

You make have never given a thought to Japanese cheese, but you should. These 5 cheesemakers are creating something unique and entirely their own.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":37019,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[15985,2087,1296,19591,19590,19596,7510,17923,3555,19589,19599,19593,19592,19600,19594,19595,19598,19597],"coauthors":[15989,9537,290],"class_list":["post-37012","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-atelier-de-fromage","tag-cheese","tag-cheesemakers","tag-chiyo-shibata","tag-fromagerie-sen","tag-ima-farm-cheese-factory","tag-japan","tag-japanese","tag-japanese-cheese","tag-japanese-cheesemakers","tag-kyodogakusha-shintoku-farm","tag-masanori-matsubara","tag-mirasaka-fromage","tag-nozomu-miyajima","tag-shigeo-matsuoka","tag-yoko-matsuoka","tag-yukari-takashashi","tag-yuko-takahashi"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n5 Japanese Cheesemakers You Need to Know - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"You make have never given a thought to Japanese cheese, but you should. 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