{"id":37104,"date":"2019-09-18T11:03:30","date_gmt":"2019-09-18T15:03:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37104"},"modified":"2019-09-23T14:38:43","modified_gmt":"2019-09-23T18:38:43","slug":"voicings-david-asher-talks-natural-cheesemaking-and-more","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/voicings-david-asher-talks-natural-cheesemaking-and-more\/","title":{"rendered":"Voicings: David Asher Talks Natural Cheesemaking and More"},"content":{"rendered":"

O<\/span>ld-fashioned is back. From sourdough bread<\/a> to natural wine<\/a>, the last few decades have seen a renewed interest in old-school approaches. Perhaps one of the staunchest supporters of natural cheesemaking is David Asher. His fermentation journey began with sauerkraut and other vegetables that later expanded to natural cheesemaking. A self-described \u201cguerilla cheesemaker,\u201d Asher travels from community kitchens to local farms advocating for raw-milk cheese made with natural fermentation.<\/p>\n

Much of Asher\u2019s work requires dismantling the stigma surrounding raw milk. While the determined few can obtain raw milk in the US, raw-milk sales are completely banned throughout Canada; some farmers have even spent time in prison for selling their milk. To further separate Asher from the pack, most cheesemakers rely on packaged starter cultures and rennet, which doesn\u2019t align with his cheesemaking ethos. Instead, Asher argues that working with milk\u2019s native microbiology creates a stronger connection to cheese; it allows space for the cheese to grow and evolve naturally. We sat down with Asher to discuss fermentation, natural methods, and changing tastes.<\/p>\n

\n

On traditional rennet<\/h4>\n

A lot of cheeses are made with microbial rennet; people often refer to them as \u201cvegetarian rennet.\u201d I prefer the term \u201cgenetically modified.\u201d<\/p>\n

On changing tactics<\/h4>\n

Cheesemakers are very conservative in their methods. In general, they\u2019ve been making cheese one way their whole lives, and they\u2019ve come to have faith in it. And sure, it works; they do make good cheese. But cheesemakers are challenged by the idea that a [homemade]starter culture can allow the cheese to evolve in a certain way.<\/p>\n

On Europe vs. North America<\/h4>\n

There are many examples in Europe of a strong relationship to the landscape, and the cheeses that are made there reflect that. Here in North America, we don\u2019t really have that relationship to the land. In many ways, it\u2019s severed. When we make a cheese, we follow a recipe that calls for an ingredient list.<\/p>\n

On natural cheesemaking<\/h4>\n

I see it as an art that invokes natural fermentation with a culture that\u2019s captured by the cheesemaker and the use of traditional (calf) rennet. It differs considerably from how cheesemaking is generally practiced in North America.<\/p>\n

On taste of place<\/h4>\n

How can cheese made in a certain place taste of a certain place when it\u2019s made from packaged freeze-dried starter cultures brought in from Denmark, and the rennet is produced in Colombia?<\/p>\n

On consuming raw milk<\/h4>\n

I don\u2019t necessarily believe raw milk is safe to drink. I perceive raw-milk cheese making as a way of making raw milk safe using traditional forms of fermentation. That\u2019s the way I approach it.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

On natural vs. standard cheesemaking<\/h4>\n

There\u2019s a vast difference between the natural approach and the standard approach. The natural approach is very liberating to cheesemakers. It allows the cheese to evolve in a very natural way, and allows them to express the microbiology of the milk. It\u2019s more reflective of what they\u2019re doing as cheesemakers.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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