{"id":37233,"date":"2019-10-15T08:00:41","date_gmt":"2019-10-15T12:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37233"},"modified":"2021-10-07T15:34:22","modified_gmt":"2021-10-07T19:34:22","slug":"orange-is-the-new-black","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/orange-is-the-new-black\/","title":{"rendered":"Orange is the New Black"},"content":{"rendered":"

Photography by Danielle Wood<\/em> |<\/strong> Food styled by Jenny White<\/em> |<\/strong> Props styled by Cynthia Blackett<\/em><\/p>\n

T<\/span>o make a surfing analogy, choosing to produce a washed rind as your first cheese is similar to taking beginner surfing lessons on the supersized Hawaiian wave known as Jaws. \u201cWhat can go wrong?\u201d muses Marcus Fergusson, a London music publicist turned artisan cheesemaker. \u201cEverything.\u201d<\/p>\n

Fergusson should know. His Renegade Monk is a one-of-a-kind hybrid blue and ale-washed cheese, a technical undertaking that would make even the most experienced cheesemakers quiver. To top things off, he works in what he calls a cramped \u201cexperimental space\u201d\u2014essentially a souped-up lean-to attached to his Somerset farmhouse.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a flat roof above me so the temperature in the summer really builds up,\u201d explains Fergusson, who began cheesemaking after only a one-day course. \u201cMeanwhile the refrigeration is completely over-spec and the fans are really fierce which causes the cheeses to dry out or become too blue. I used the wrong sort of culture and molds to begin with…\u201d He shrugs. \u201cI\u2019m in my third year of cheesemaking\u2014it takes a lifetime to learn this stuff.\u201d<\/p>\n

Fergusson is almost as maverick as his cheese\u2014the self-professed foodie put himself through the agony (and ecstasy) of creating such a rule-breaking wheel to simply \u201cshake up the marketplace.\u201d But he\u2019s in good company. Over the past five years, a new wave of British cheesemakers has seized the washed-rind challenge\u2014interesting for a country with, generally speaking, a historic aversion to producing washed-rind soft cheese.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Left to right: St. Cera, Edmund Tew, Renegade Monk<\/p><\/div>\n

Holy Odors <\/strong><\/p>\n

While the term \u201cwashed rind\u201d can be applied extremely broadly\u2014the firm Alpine wheel Comt\u00e9, for example, falls within the category\u2014the designation is owned by those pungent soft and semi-soft cheeses of a lurid tangerine hue, their sticky rinds concealing a glistening ivory or cream interior that\u2019s often on the brink of bursting its microbe-encrusted banks.<\/p>\n

Although details are scarce, history\u2019s washed-rind eureka moment is generally bestowed upon a Benedictine monk toiling in the Maroilles Abbey of Northern France circa 960 A.D. With meat consumption in stricter monasteries reserved for the sick or a smattering of annual feast days, the incentive to develop a satisfying alternative was high.<\/p>\n

Frequently doubling as boutique breweries, monasteries allowed inventive monks the capacity to experiment. Rinds were washed\u2014by brush or by hand (the latter method is known as smear-ripening)\u2014with whatever ale, perry, or brandy was available. Regular washes helped prevent the rind from drying out while also encouraging bacteria (Brevibacterium linens,<\/em> in particular) that preferred the more humid, saltier conditions, ripening the cheese from the outside in and producing an appealing\u2014if funky\u2014orange rind. Certain washes delivered sumptuous flavors both within the cheese and on the edible rind, often with that yearned-for-meatiness\u2014\u00c9poisses de Bourgogne, hand washed in Marc de Bourgogne, is a classic example.<\/p>\n

When the Cistercians packed up their spare cassocks and made for medieval Britain and Ireland, no doubt their washed-rinds would have come too, but little is known about the technical details. Fast forward to the twentieth century, and the style had little presence in and around British shores\u2014until a flourishing of washed-rind cheeses in the south of Ireland emerged in the 1970s.<\/p>\n

Bronwen Percival, author of Reinventing the Wheel<\/em> (University of California Press, 2017) and cheese buyer for Neal\u2019s Yard Dairy in London, picks up the story. \u201cBy the early \u201980s, [Irish cheesemaker] Veronica Steele had generated a farmhouse cheese culture that hadn\u2019t existed in Ireland for a very long time. It gave rise to a whole collection of washed-rind cheeses in West Cork, essentially becoming a regional style.\u201d<\/p>\n

The most famous of these include Milleen\u2019s (made bySteele at Milleen\u2019s Cheese), Durrus, and the discontinued Ardrahan. Back in Blighty, efforts to wash rinds were sporadic, less part of any larger pattern. Perry-washed Stinking Bishop\u2014inspired by the Cistercians who once farmed cheesemaker Charles Martell\u2019s land\u2014emerged in the early 1970s (burnishing its stinky credentials in 2009, when it was described as smelling like a \u201crugby club changing room\u201d after winning Britain\u2019s Smelliest Cheese Championships). And then there was the accidental affineur and washed-rind enthusiast James Aldridge, a former builder who fell off his ladder and landed a place in British cheese history.<\/p>\n

Cheesemonger Andy Swincoe of The Courtyard Dairy explains that Aldridge\u2019s experimentation with rinds began during a Christmas cheese rush at his wife\u2019s deli. Storing the Stilton (a blue cheese) too close to the Caerphilly (a hard, crumbly wheel) in the cramped cellar, he noted that the Stilton had transferred some of its sticky orange bacteria to the rind of the Caerphilly. Intrigued by the potential, Aldridge began to experiment with washes, ultimately producing a number of notable examples including a wine-washed Caerphilly named Tornegus.<\/p>\n

Still, it wasn\u2019t until the last five years or so that creative cheesemakers began filling out the British washed-rind cheese shelf\u2014and winning top awards along the way. Take Blackwoods Cheese Company Edmund Tew, for instance\u2014the Petit Langres\u2013style washed rind (named fora deported cheese thief) stole Supreme Champion at the 2018 Artisan Cheese Awards. Or the pungent, spoonable St. Cera by White Wood Dairy, which spirited away the James Aldridge Memorial Trophy for the Best British Raw-Milk Cheese in 2016. And in the same year, Rollright\u2014a creamy Vacherin du Haut-Doubs\u2013style produced by David Jowett of King Stone Dairy\u2014was crowned the Artisan Cheese Awards\u2019 Supreme Champion (the first of many accolades for this four-year-old cheese).<\/p>\n

So what sparked this sticky-rind insurgency? Swincoe points to the reduced costs in making a soft cheese (quicker stock turnover, less equipment required), while Percival attributes the washed-rind groundswell to an increased level of technical control.<\/p>\n

\u201cTake David Jowett,\u201d she says of the Oxfordshire-based cheesemaker. \u201cWhat\u2019s impressive about Rollright is that from the beginning it has been very polished, nicely presented, every bit as beautiful as a French Vacherin. Even compared to when I started working at Neal\u2019s Yard 14 years ago, there\u2019s a level of polish that wasn\u2019t common in the British cheese industry at the time.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Top left: Evenlode, Bottom right: Rollright<\/p><\/div>\n

Wash On, Wash Off<\/strong><\/h3>\n

A bright round of Rollright, smaller than my hand, sits on the table before me (beside it squats its angry orange twin\u2014we\u2019ll get to that in a minute). The Rollright is immaculate, a sprung mattress of a cheese, its buttercup-yellow paste enclosed within a peachy-white latticed rind, bound by a spruce cummerbund. I\u2019m in Jowett\u2019s small dairy on King Stone Farm, surrounded by the rolling Cotswold countryside\u2014only a few hundred yards from the Neolithic Rollright stones that give the cheese its name.<\/p>\n

\u201cTurns out Vacherin-style is a finicky cheese to get right,\u201d says Jowett, a sparky 20-something. In explaining why, like Fergusson, he decided on trial-by-washed-rind for his first solo cheese, Jowett doesn\u2019t cite commercial pragmatism or a young cheesemaker\u2019s technical ambitions. Instead he mentions Christmas.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I started working at [cheese shop Paxton &Whitfield] in 2007, we had a lot of Vacherin in store…\u201d he gives a gluttonous chuckle, \u201cvery difficult to order Vacherin stocks correctly. It was the first cheese I fell in love with and that was what I wanted to make.\u201d<\/p>\n

Rollright isn\u2019t simply a Vacherin du Haut-Doubs copy. It carries less moisture than the French classic, while the curd is cut smaller, more like Reblochon (another European washed-rind grande dame). After the cheese freely drains, it\u2019s carefully brushed with brine for four washes to help achieve that \u201cnice Vacherin frosting.\u201d Jowett describes how the pH of the cheese is too low to allow B. linens<\/em> to find a foothold. The knowledgeable cheesemaker\u2014a graduate of the UK\u2019s School of ArtisanFood\u2014pushes gently on the rind to show the delicate layering of intentional yeasts, the peachy color beneath the white Geotrichum<\/em> bloom. <\/p>\n

I relay something to Jowett that Percival has said. While there are obvious differences between Stinking Bishop and Rollright, philosophically they\u2019re similar in how they draw inspiration from continental Europe\u2019s cheeses. He acknowledges the point, and it\u2019s then that we move to Rollright\u2019s angry twin\u2014Evenlode\u2014which he\u2019s been producing since last year. I take a slice and savor the brothy, beefy notes and the cheese\u2019s spritzy lactic core.<\/p>\n

Someone apparently told him that Evenlode, in looks, resembled Ardrahan\u2014the now discontinued Irish washed rind. However Jowett\u2019s recipe isn\u2019t derivative\u2014it\u2019s born of his tinkering and intuition, and offers something more original, with an acidity more in line with the crumbly territorial cheeses of the north, like Cheshire or Lancashire.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Left top and bottom: St. James, Left middle: Maida Vale, Right: Cardo<\/p><\/div>\n

Saints Alive<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Mountainous Cumbria lies to the north of the county of Lancashire. It\u2019s a land of lakes and wet sheep, Peter Rabbit, and Holker Farm\u2014the 20 acres of pasture where St. James cheese is produced. If Renegade Monk and Evenlode are stylistic originals surfing this washed rind new wave, then the raw sheep\u2019s milk St. James, Percival suggests, represents an even greater step towards originality.<\/p>\n

\u201cSt. James is asking, What does this farm produce?<\/em> and How can I manipulate the environment to privilege the right bacteria?<\/em>,\u201d she adds. \u201cEverything that is used to sour the milk and ripen the cheese is from the milk and the farm itself, rather than commercially produced. The only other one that I can think of that is in that category is [the late Mary Holbrook\u2019s goat\u2019s milk washed rind], Cardo.\u201d<\/p>\n

St. James is named for James Aldridge. Cheesemaker Martin Gott laughs as he recalls a story about how Aldridge, who worked with his father, named a cheese \u201cBrother David\u201d because, as Aldridge put it, \u201cMy wife\u2019s brother, David, liked it.\u201d<\/p>\n

Gott\u2019s a fan of originality, whether sought out or serendipitous. The origins of St. James lie somewhere in between: In 2005, following the recipe for a Lancashire\u2014the only cheese he knew how to make\u2014but lacking a curd mill to finish the process, he and his partner, Nicola, progressed the cheese as far along as they could. Afterwards, on a whim, Martin sent the truncated Lancashire to Neal\u2019s Yard Dairy to see what rind washing might achieve and\u2014presto\u2014a modern classic was born (actually, make that two modern classics: the success of St. James inspired Martin\u2019s mentor Holbrook to develop Cardo).<\/p>\n

Over time, Martin has become increasingly committed to having his cheese fully express the raw milk produced by his herd of Lacaune sheep. A few years ago, feeling as if the starter cultures they were buying weren\u2019t representative of the cheese they wanted to make, the Gotts began playing around with cultures developed from the milk of their best ewes. \u201cWe expected a lot of weirdness and crazy flavors, but bizarrely the cheese became less weird\u2014it tasted more like itself,\u201d he recalls.<\/p>\n

St. James is hand-washed with a brine solution three times a week. The Gotts try to rub off any wild molds that grow on the exterior, although Martin says that the molds\u2019 persistence means that the rind can sometimes resemble a resprayed car, with blues or greens layered beneath the orange.<\/p>\n

The flavor and texture varies with the seasons, but is often savory and meaty, rich and creamy, with a rind offering bacon notes. Martin is dedicated to his method, believing that truly unique, world class cheeses require dependence on a single farm\u2019s raw milk supply.<\/p>\n

But whatever the provenance, the genie is truly out of the bottle for British washed rinds. Jowett is moving addresses, scaling up to meet demand. Back in Somerset, Fergusson is doing the same, fleeing the flat roof and fierce fans of his past and constructing a 2,066-square-foot dairy on his smallholding, with space for the production of at least two other cheeses besides Renegade Monk.<\/p>\n

Will he do another washed rind? Apparently, I\u2019m not the first to ask\u2014he\u2019s been encouraged to use cider this time, as he\u2019s based in Somerset after all. \u201cI\u2019m pretty determined not to do another,\u201d he laughs, before reminiscing about how umami and delicious an experimental stout-washed Monk was. \u201cNever say never,\u201d he self-corrects.<\/p>\n

Tasting Notes<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Cardo<\/strong> <\/p>\n

Sleight Farm, Somerset, England, Raw goat’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

Using rennet derived from Portuguese thistles, the dry, pinkish-white rind gives way to a glossy paste offering a floral flavor and a chalkier, curdier core.<\/p>\n

Renegade Monk<\/strong><\/p>\n

Feltham’s Farm, Somerset, England, Pasteurized cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

Within this hybrid blue\/ale-washed cheese\u2019s plaster-white, brainy rind is a chalky, ivory core that\u2019s full-flavored with floral and barnyard notes.<\/p>\n

Rollright<\/strong><\/p>\n

King Stone Dairy, Oxfordshire, England, Pasteurized cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

A creamy, buttery cheese with a silky yellow paste. Smoky, piney notes begin to leech in from the spruce as the cheese ages.<\/p>\n

Evenlode<\/strong><\/p>\n

King Stone Dairy, Oxfordshire, England, Pasteurized cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

The beefy, brothy flavors of this tangerine-hued wheel conceal a fresh, lactic core.<\/p>\n

St. James<\/strong><\/p>\n

Holker Farm, Cumbria, England, Raw sheep’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

A semi-soft ivory paste with a fresh citrus bite gives way to a nutty finish, all encased in a savory rind. <\/p>\n

Maida Vale<\/strong><\/p>\n

Village Maid Cheese, Berkshire, England, Thermalized cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

This rich, earthy cheese carries hoppy notes from the IPA with which it’s washed.<\/p>\n

Edmund Tew<\/strong><\/p>\n

Blackwoods Cheese Company, Kent, England, Raw cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

Malty notes on the cheese’s wrinkly Geotrichum <\/em>rind complement a fresh lactic paste within.<\/p>\n

St. Cera<\/strong><\/p>\n

White Wood Dairy, Suffolk, England, Raw cow’s milk<\/em><\/p>\n

Regular spraying and brushing with brine produces a fluid, intensely flavored cheese.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Choosing to produce a washed rind as your first cheese is similar to taking beginner surfing lessons on a supersized wave. \u201cWhat can go wrong? Everything.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":39172,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[20441,20442,2698,1817,1290,20440,20446,1803,3802,20450,20449,20436,20439,1931,20443,1618,2086,20437,2743,9684,20444,20448,2960,3975,20438,20447,20445],"coauthors":[897,810],"class_list":["post-37233","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-andy-swincoe","tag-blackwoods-cheese-company","tag-british-cheese","tag-bronwen-percival","tag-cardo","tag-charles-martell","tag-david-jowett","tag-durrus","tag-edmund-tew","tag-evenlode","tag-maida-vale","tag-marcus-fergusson","tag-mileens","tag-neals-yard-dairy","tag-petit-langres","tag-reblochon","tag-reinventing-the-wheel","tag-renegade-monk","tag-rollright","tag-somerset","tag-st-cera","tag-st-james","tag-stinking-bishop","tag-the-courtyard-dairy","tag-veronica-steele","tag-wacherin","tag-white-wood-dairy"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nOrange is the New Black - culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Choosing to produce a washed rind as your first cheese is similar to taking beginner surfing lessons on a supersized wave. \u201cWhat can go wrong? 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