{"id":37390,"date":"2019-10-27T20:18:50","date_gmt":"2019-10-28T00:18:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37390"},"modified":"2022-05-31T16:32:21","modified_gmt":"2022-05-31T20:32:21","slug":"crowning-glory","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/crowning-glory\/","title":{"rendered":"Crowning Glory"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

I<\/span>’m staring at a nondescript dark blue garage door somewhere in Brooklyn\u2019s Crown Heights neighborhood. It\u2019s the first Saturday of New York City\u2019s week-long Pride celebration and the streets are buzzing with rainbow-clad revelers. I approach the door slowly, then stop when I see another woman rushing over with keys and phone in one hand, canvas tote in the other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Caroline Hesse, head of sales<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

This is Caroline Hesse, part head of sales, part creative team, part events manager, and part whatever-else-needs-to-happen at Crown Finish Caves. She waves me over, we hug, and next thing I know I\u2019m inside the pristine Crown Finish office, complete with a floor-to-ceiling chalkboard wall\u2014more on that later. Just as I settle onto the white pleather couch, the door swings open and in walks head affineur Ethan Partyka, who looks just like you\u2019d imagine a bicycle-tech-turned-affineur would. (Read: cool tattoos, cool hat, and general Cool Guy aesthetic. I instantly want to be his friend.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I take in my surroundings as Hesse and Partyka situate themselves opposite me, the chalkboard wall acting as their backdrop. \u201cSo what\u2019s going on behind you?\u201d I blurt out before I remember to hit record on my phone. Partyka smiles and explains the wall is essentially their production calendar for what\u2019s currently in the cave; this is where they track the lifecycle of cheeses from the time they arrive to when they\u2019re ready for distribution.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Caroline Hesse and head affineur Ethan Partyka<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Crown Finish Caves is a facility for cheese aging, a practice known as affinage (French for \u201cmaturing\u201d or \u201crefining\u201d). Aging takes place in one of their two caves\u2014climate-controlled caverns 30 feet below the streets of Brooklyn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlikely Origins<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Old-school metal filing cabinets, a pair of vintage brown chairs, and a utilitarian desk (complete with a bumpersticker that reads \u201cELECT WOMEN\u201d) are the only real furniture in the long, narrow office. Amidst the neatly arranged binders in the windowsills, I notice small, hand-drawn pictures of people and cheese. Vibrant posters and framed photographs bring pops of color to the otherwise monochromatic room.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nothing about this well-organized space seems planned, and Hesse confirms that most of Crown Finish Caves\u2019 origin was happenstance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere wasn\u2019t a plan for the caves,\u201d she explains. \u201c[The owners], Benton [Brown] and Susan [Boyle], bought this building and the one behind it in 2001. Susan has a background in… actually, I don\u2019t even really know.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Partyka laughs and chimes in. \u201cSusan\u2019s background is in eco stuff like transportation alternatives; she\u2019s very focused on green efforts,\u201d he says. \u201cAnd Benton\u2019s background is in art\u2014both as an artist and in handling art\u2014so they formed a construction company together.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThese two buildings are super old,\u201d Hesse continues, referring to the room we\u2019re sitting in and the adjacent ice house, originally used by the building’s 19th century tenant, Nassau Brewery, as cold storage up until prohibition. \u201c[Benton and Susan] just wanted to turn [the ice house] into a residential unit to live in, but the owner at the time was like \u2018You have to buy both\u2019 because it\u2019s connected by a courtyard. So they did.\u201d And the caves, formerly used to brew beer, were also part of the deal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Spruce-wrapped Barkeater from Consider Bardwell Farm at various ages<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I pause for a moment. I\u2019m surprised, though perhaps I shouldn\u2019t be, to learn that neither of the founders have backgrounds in cheese. The particular skill set required for affinage seems like the kind of niche knowledge you\u2019d seek out rather than fall into.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI graduated with a liberal arts degree in religious studies,\u201d Hesse reveals. Slightly confused and simultaneously delighted by the similarities to my own unconventional trajectory, I press Hesse for more details.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“[After graduating] I was really freaking out, and was like \u2018I\u2019m just gonna relax and get a job at a cheese shop until I figure out what I\u2019m going to do,\u201d she says. Hesse\u2019s cheese shop job led to a brief stint at a dairy where she quickly realized she wasn\u2019t a farmer. After returning to New York, she started at Crown Finish as an intern. And she never left.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Partyka\u2019s path to affinage followed a similarly winding route: a liberal arts undergraduate degree led him to pursue a Craigslist ad for bike shop help, which brought him to culinary school, naturally. Culinary school \u201cwasn\u2019t really his thing,\u201d so Partyka left to work at a specialty food shop and eventually ended up as an apprentice at Crown Finish. Three years later, Hesse and Partyka are steering the ship, er, cave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Making Space<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Developing Brooklyn-based affinage also took time and a bit of circuity. After purchasing the buildings in 2001 and living there for almost a decade, Brown began taking cheese classes with dairy consultant Peter Dixon. It sparked something irrevocable in Brown\u2014like many entrepreneurs, he saw a gap in the existing cheese world: space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBy talking with cheesemakers throughout [all phases of the] process, again and again [Brown] was hearing cheesemakers say they don\u2019t have enough room to age their cheese,\u201d Partyka says. Enter their inherited brewery caves, which have the perfect conditions for affinage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Brown and Boyle broke ground in 2011, and while construction was underway, they continued to absorb as much cheese knowledge as possible. In the years that followed, Brown crowdsourced advice, recipes, and more from the likes of Jasper Hill Farm\u2019s Mateo Kehler and world-famous affineur Herv\u00e9 Mons. Meanwhile, he worked with the folks at Clauger\u2014an industrial refrigeration and air-conditioning company known for their custom-built systems\u2014to craft a solution for maintaining an optimal cheese aging environment in the caves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Going Underground<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

To enter the caves, you prepare as you would for brain surgery: hand washing, hair nets, cave-specific boots, lab coats, the whole nine yards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Ethan Partyka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I scrub up, slip on a pair of boots, and prepare for the descent down the steep spiral staircase. As though reading my mind, Partyka points to the freight elevator door, explaining that\u2019s how they haul cheese between floors. Clutching the railing, I make it to the base of the stairs and am met with more gadgetry. Partyka proudly guides me through a brief tutorial of the Clauger machine, designed specifically for Crown Finish back in 2012, that regulates the temperature and air pressure in the cheese cave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBecause we\u2019re 30 feet underground, the cave is naturally very cold and damp, but to be a licensed dairy plant we need something regulating and recording all of our daily temperatures,\u201d Hesse explains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cAnd the cheese, as it ages, is alive,\u201d Partyka says as he excitedly gestures towards the machine\u2019s screen. \u201cIt has a metabolism and is releasing heat, so we need to introduce artificial cooling, [which means] we\u2019re actively robbing humidity from the air and need to reintroduce that humidity.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Balls of Mimolette suspended from the ceiling inside Crown Finish’s cheese cave<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

I nod along, pretending to comprehend all the technical terms they\u2019re using. Then, the moment of truth arrives. Hesse pushes back the large metal door and suddenly, as promised, I’m staring into a cheese cave 30 feet below the streets of Brooklyn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cave\u2019s smell is relatively mild, like a clean mold, which I\u2019m told is purposeful. \u201cWe\u2019re controlling the rate at which we introduce air into the cave, so we\u2019re not in a stifling ammonia- and methane-filled environment,\u201d Partyka says. \u201cSome caves are like walking into a cat hoarder house and your eyes tear up immediately.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s easy to imagine the smell situation escalating when you consider all that\u2019s going on in the cave; The cheeses release methane gas, the Cluger pumps in air and humidity, and at the same time, countless molds are growing on the many wheels they\u2019re housing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Green to Great<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cheese is sent to Crown Finish from various national producers (like Old Chatham Creamery in Old Chatham, New York, and Spring Brook Farm in Reading, Vermont) and one international producer (Quattro Portoni in Italy) in varying quantities\u2014sometimes makers send a few wheels for experimenting, and other times they send enough cheese for retail distribution. Crown Finish receives \u201cgreen\u201d cheese, which means it’s fresh out of production. Then, Partyka and his assistant let nature work its magic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Crown Finish Caves’ immaculate cheese aging facility, lined with rows of neatly arranged cheeses like Spring Brook Farms’ large-format Tubby wheels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThere\u2019s only so much that we can control [about the cheese]\u2014we can brush it, we can wash it, but we have a very limited set of tools,\u201d Partyka says. \u201cIt\u2019s like you inherit a garden and all you need to do is weed and water it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is part of what makes Crown Finish so unique. In some cases, they\u2019re letting the cheeses and ambient mold in the cave do their thing, and in others they\u2019re adding to the process.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

“The cheese is already on a very predetermined path by the time we receive it,\u201d Partyka says as he leads me through the cave, single file. \u201cEverything that goes into the main process [pushes] the cheese in a particular direction: style, moisture, pH, fat content. Our job is to help that cheese [develop] in the direction it already wants to go in.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Partyka shows me two drastically different cheeses, seemingly similar only in their square shape. These cheeses, Natural Rind Bufarolo and Washed Bufarolo, begin as the exact same green cheese imported by Quattro Portoni from Gritti Family Farm in Italy. Natural Rind\u2014a silvery cheese with a mushroomy, earthy taste\u2014is allowed to do its thing and mingle with the ambient cave mold. By contrast, Washed Bufarolo is firsthand-washed in brine, then in a mixture of brine and beer (often locally brewed), giving it a yeasty orange rind and a fatty paste sans earthiness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beyond Bufarolo, the cave is filled with a variety of cheese styles, such as Trifecta, a mixed-milk triple cream, and Tubby, a large-format Alpine style. A section of vibrant cubes catch my eye\u2014this is Barnburner, a smoked cheddar style made by Grafton Village Cheese in Vermont. The youngest blocks are bright orange and dotted with a few bits of greenish mold, while the oldest are completely covered in mold and look like hunks of marble. When the cheese arrives at Crown Finish, it\u2019s rubbed with lard, bandaged, then aged four or more months in the cave. The result? A gorgeous yet approachable cheese with notes of smoke, tang, and meat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Is  Crown Finish Caves Brooklyn\u2019s best-kept secret? Maybe so. \u201cI think in the cheese world, we\u2019re known\u2014but in our neighborhood, we\u2019re kind of a whisper,\u201d Hesse says. It certainly feels magical\u2014a tour de force of American affinage, all made possible by a series of very fortunate events that lead an artist, eco-activist, religious scholar, and former bicycle technician into the world of curd. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Discover the unexpected affinage facility that lives in underground Brooklyn.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":103,"featured_media":37399,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[992,1611,4099,4006,1978,20717,18677,178,17462,1979,20718,1980,15479,1104,2477,2817,20722,2299,20057,20721,18179,20719,20720],"coauthors":[20723],"class_list":["post-37390","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-affinage","tag-affineur","tag-barkeater","tag-brooklyn","tag-bufarolo","tag-caroline-hesse","tag-cheese-aging","tag-cheesemaking","tag-consider-bardwell-farm","tag-crown-finish-caves","tag-ethan-partyka","tag-gritti-family-farm","tag-herve-mons","tag-jasper-hill-farm","tag-mateo-kehler","tag-mimolette","tag-nassau-brewery","tag-new-york-city","tag-old-chatham-creamery","tag-quattro-portoni","tag-trifecta","tag-tubby","tag-washed-bufarolo"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCrowning Glory - 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