{"id":37547,"date":"2019-11-20T17:31:19","date_gmt":"2019-11-20T22:31:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/?p=37547"},"modified":"2022-07-14T16:57:33","modified_gmt":"2022-07-14T20:57:33","slug":"queso-without-borders-who-really-makes-the-milk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/developer83.wordpress-developer.us\/culturecheesemag\/queso-without-borders-who-really-makes-the-milk\/","title":{"rendered":"Queso Without Borders: Who Really Makes the Milk?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Photographed by Caleb Kenna<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

W<\/span>hat would the Vermont dairy industry look like without immigrants from Latin America? For Will Lambek, an organizer at Burlington, Vermont-based nonprofit Migrant Justice, the answer is simple: \u201cIt wouldn\u2019t exist, at least in its current form,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vermont needs immigration because Vermont needs milk. It\u2019s the state with the heaviest reliance on a single agricultural commodity. About 80 percent of its open land supports dairy production. Not only does milk drive the economy; it shapes the landscape. It creates the bucolic scenes that attract tourists, provides raw material for world-famous cheeses, and sustains traditions woven into the social fabric. It keeps hillside pastures green and lush, dotted with cows. It holds up majestic red barns that might otherwise crumble.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And behind those postcard-worthy facades are the hidden daily toils of the dairy farm workers. Their days begin well before sunrise. They often work between 60 and 80 hours per week. Cows need to be milked multiple times and manure needs to be shoveled, every single day, all year long. Holidays and vacations are scant. Summers are hot and muggy; winters are frigid. The work is dirty, isolating, and physical. It\u2019s not glamorous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nor is it lucrative. Milk prices have been declining for decades, forcing dairy farms to consolidate, increase output, and find people to work at low wages. \u201cThe traditional model of the family farm\u2014run by family members and maybe the local high school students picking up some shifts\u2014is becoming increasingly difficult to sustain,\u201d says Lambek. \u201cIn order to survive, farms are having to grow. And when they grow, they\u2019re hiring immigrant workers.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

DAIRY DEPENDS ON IMMIGRATION<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

According to Vermont state representative Peter Conlon, dairy farms in Vermont really started struggling with labor about 20 years ago. In a state with a declining population, it became increasingly difficult to find enough locals willing to do the backbreaking work. \u201cEven back then, dairy work was falling out of esteem in the general population,\u201d he says. \u201cThere was a certain culture of saying, \u2018Be careful or you\u2019ll end up having to do that kind of work.\u2019 But at the same time, farms were growing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s when some immigrants from Mexico started showing up in the state, looking for jobs. \u201cI think it happened organically,\u201d says Conlon, who spent a decade working as a consultant at AgriPlacement, a company that connects dairy farm owners with workers, who are often immigrants. \u201cA couple of guys from southern Mexico came to a farm, and through their informal network word spread that there were good, reliable jobs here.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Migrant worker mother and daughters at a dairy farm in Addison, Vermont.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

With unemployment in Vermont currently hovering around two percent, it\u2019s as difficult as ever for farms to attract local staff. Today, almost 70 percent of milk in Vermont is produced on farms that utilize immigrant labor. There are likely around 1,500 migrant workers in the state, predominantly from Mexico and Guatemala, most working\u2014and living\u2014on dairy farms. \u201cHad these guys not shown up,\u201d says Conlon, \u201ca lot of dairy farms would have shuttered for their inability to find reliable labor.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The situation here is not unique; similar patterns exist in other dairy-producing states like New York and Wisconsin. According to a 2015 study from Texas A&M University, over half of dairy workers in the US are immigrants. At the national level, almost 80 percent of American milk is produced on farms that hire immigrant workers. While farm owners in many other agricultural industries can hire foreign farm workers through seasonal work visas, dairy farming requires labor year-round. Since there is no year-round visa program for farm workers, the vast majority are undocumented.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That puts both immigrant workers and farm owners in a very precarious position. When workers depart, efficiency wanes. Herd health declines. More calves and cows die. According to the same Texas A&M study, if immigrant workers were suddenly removed from America\u2019s 58,000 dairy farms, 7,000 of those farms would close. Milk production would decrease by a quarter. The price of milk for consumers would nearly double. Direct economic losses would total $32 billion, with a rippling effect throughout the US economy. \u201cFrankly,\u201d says Conlon, \u201cthese immigrant workers have saved the dairy industry.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

THE OTHER BORDER<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Despite the fact that they keep its dairy sector afloat, immigrant farm workers in Vermont are routinely targeted, detained, and deported. It might be far from the Mexican border, but proximity to Canada puts Vermont in a unique position. Within 100 miles of the Canadian border, Customs and Border Protection (CBP) officers can detain, search, and question anyone freely\u2014rendering protections from \u201cunreasonable search and seizure\u201d null. Between 2013 and 2017, local CBP officers have arrested almost 400 people believed to have crossed through the country\u2019s southern border. \u201cWe see an average of one detention from Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) or border patrol every week,\u201d Lambek says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In a state that\u2019s about 94 percent white, Latino residents stand out. CBP and ICE agents have acted on tips from \u201cconcerned citizens,\u201d local cops, or even\u2014controversially\u2014Department of Motor Vehicles employees. In the vast majority of cases, no crimes or suspicious behaviors precede these tips. It\u2019s racial profiling, and it begins as soon as immigrants step off the farm. In recent months, people have been arrested in Walmart parking lots, at McDonald\u2019s, or even on their way to and from doctors’ appointments. News of these arrests ripples quickly throughout the immigrant communities. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s not hard to see the implications. \u201cPeople feel like prisoners on their farms,\u201d Lambek says. \u201cIf they go to the grocery store, to the bank, to go play with their children at the park, they could be subject to arrest, detention, and deportation.\u201d A 2017 survey by the Open Door Clinic, which serves under- and un-insured individuals in Addison County, found that 80 percent of immigrant workers felt more scared or anxious to go out in public since the 2016 election.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

University of Vermont anthropology professor Teresa Mares, who studies health among dairy farm workers, has found that the fear of going out is so pervasive that many immigrant workers are actually going hungry. \u201cWith people being galvanized into xenophobia by the highest levels of our government right now, migrant workers are expressing fear of being in public,\u201d she says. \u201cVery few farm workers are actually doing their own groceries.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That leaves workers dependent on their employers and vulnerable to exploitation. A 2014 survey conducted by Migrant Justice found that 40 percent of immigrant dairy farm workers in Vermont were paid below minimum wage, almost a third routinely work for seven hours or more without a break, a quarter don\u2019t receive a pay stub, and 15 percent had insufficient heating at home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Farmworkers Victor Diaz and Ivan Dominguez in the milking parlor at the Vorsteveld Farm, Panton, Vermont.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

SPEAKING OUT<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Still, the Vermont immigrant community has refused to stay silent. In 2009, when a young Mexican farmworker was killed on a Vermont dairy farm due to unsafe working conditions, a group of immigrants came together to form Migrant Justice. The nonprofit organizes farmworkers in human rights campaigns, takes legal action against racial profiling, and has successfully aided dozens of individuals who have been detained\u2014both through public campaigns and support behind the scenes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Migrant Justice\u2019s leaders know that the fight for immigrant rights should begin where most of them live and work: on dairy farms. In 2017, after years of talks, pressure, and protest, the organization finally convinced Ben & Jerry\u2019s ice cream\u2014one of the largest milk purchasers in the state\u2014to sign its \u201cMilk with Dignity\u201d agreement. Inspired by the Fair Food Program, a worker-driven social responsibility program that\u2019s transformed the tomato industry in Florida, the legally-binding agreement provokes large companies to consider their milk sources and the conditions on their supplier farms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Vorsteveld Farm, Panton, Vermont.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt was important to have a company like Ben & Jerry’s sign the agreement,\u201d says Migrant Justice organizer Marita Canedo. \u201cIt’s a very proud Vermont brand, and they already had commitments in place for animal welfare and environmental issues\u2014so it was time for them to take a step forward to secure protections for the farmworkers.\u201d Under the agreement, Ben & Jerry\u2019s now pays a premium for its milk; in return, farm owners follow a code of conduct established by workers to guarantee fair wages, scheduling, housing, health and safety, and the right to work free from retaliation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By ensuring dairy farm workers have those basic rights, the program has already made a big impact. \u201cThere have been so many changes,\u201d says Luisa, a dairy farm worker and member of Migrant Justice (to protect her identity, we are omitting her last name). \u201cWe didn\u2019t have a day off before. Now we get a day off… now that I have my baby, I\u2019m able to spend more time with her. Before, nobody cared if you got sick; we had to work and if we couldn\u2019t, that day was taken off our paycheck. Now that we have Milk with Dignity, we\u2019re paid that day. And that\u2019s important for me, for all of us.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Migrant workers celebrating the Milk with Dignity agreement with Ben and Jerry’s in Burlington, Vermont. The agreement ensured fair working conditions for migrant workers on Vermont dairy farms.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Efrian, a worker at a Milk with Dignity farm in northern Vermont, says that one of the biggest changes has been the ability to stand up for himself without fear. \u201c[Our bosses] are more interested in making sure that we\u2019re comfortable and happy in our job,\u201d he says. \u201cI don\u2019t have any reason to feel less than anyone else. It\u2019s the opposite; I have the right to express what I feel to the boss without any fear that he\u2019ll run me off the farm or call immigration on me.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Migrant Justice\u2019s leaders, who speak out publicly in spite of threats to their livelihood, have helped bring the lives of dairy farm workers out of the barns and into the spotlight\u2014but it hasn\u2019t been easy. Between 2016 and 2018, ICE and CBP arrested around 40 immigrants involved in the organization. \u201cWe\u2019ve seen a clear pattern of ICE targeting Migrant Justice leaders for arrests and surveilling the organization in retaliation for the human rights work that we do,\u201d says Lambek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2017, ICE agents detained two activists, Enrique Balcazar and Zully Palacios, as they left Migrant Justice headquarters in Burlington. Following a rally outside immigration court, a petition with over 10,000 signatures, and 200 letters of support (including those from Senator Bernie Sanders and other elected officials), the duo was released\u2014and they didn\u2019t stop speaking out.” Our community has been criminalized for decades and little by little we’ve come out of the shadows by raising our voices,\u201d says Palacios. \u201cWe know the risk, but it’s the only way that we can denounce injustices and empower our community. We all deserve to live freely and have our rights respected.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jose Luis Cordova Herrera, a Vermont dairy farm worker and father of three, was arrested and detained on his way home from a health clinic in 2018. Community members condemned the circumstances of the arrest as an attack on his right to access healthcare. Nearly 1,500 people wrote to ICE calling for his release. Eventually, he was freed on bond, which fellow dairy farm workers raised the money to pay for. Upon his release, Herrera reflected on the experience in a public statement. \u201cI came to realize how important it is to be part of an organization like Migrant Justice,\u201d he said. \u201cMy freedom is proof of the power of an organized community.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

What would the Vermont dairy industry look like without immigrants from Latin America?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":37548,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[26354],"tags":[21273,21274,21256,21264,21268,21275,21260,21247,21248,21034,21263,21246,21265,21270,21251,21272,21252,21258,21250,21271,3794,21266,21259,21267,21262,21249,21261,17050,21255,21253,21254,21257,978,21269],"coauthors":[290],"class_list":["post-37547","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stories","tag-ben-jerry","tag-bernie-sanders","tag-burlington-vermont","tag-customs-and-border-protection","tag-enrique-balcazar","tag-fair-food-program","tag-guatemala","tag-ice","tag-illegal-immigration","tag-immigrant-cheesemakers","tag-immigrant-dairy-farmers","tag-immigration","tag-immigration-and-customs-enforcement","tag-jose-luis-cordova-herrera","tag-latin-american-immigrants","tag-marita-canedo","tag-mexican-immigrants","tag-migrant-justice","tag-migration","tag-milk-with-dignity","tag-new-york","tag-open-door-clinic","tag-peter-conlon","tag-teresa-mares","tag-texas-am-university","tag-undocumented","tag-unemployment","tag-university-of-vermont","tag-vermont-cheesemaking","tag-vermont-dairy","tag-vermont-dairy-industry","tag-will-lambek","tag-wisconsin","tag-zully-palacios"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nQueso Without Borders: Who Really Makes the Milk? 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